How do you remove a Drill Chuck shaft?

[PatMarlin]

What's a good way to get the shaft out of a drill chuck?

I need to get the morse taper out and install a straight shaft I just bought. It's a JT33 taper I believe. Make a wedge?

I've got several chucks with morse taper shafts and I only need a couple. I need 5/8" straight shafts.

[theperfessor]

Pat, I haven't checked lately but I bet MSC or Enco have what you need. It's a simple wedge that has a slot down the middle, looks like a ball joint tool only smaller. Or do what I do and make your own on your mill. It's not hard to do.

[deltaenterprizes]

If you open the chuck as far as much as you can and look in the bottom you should see the bottom of the arbor. Insert a suitable diameter and length punch and with the chuck resting a suitable support strike the punch, or apply pressure in a press.
Some arbors are stubborn and a little Kroil and/or heat may be needed.
If all else fails turn the arbor straight.

[theperfessor]

deltae offers good advice. Depending on how long the arbor has been in the chuck and how much crud is gluing them together a good dose of penetrating oil would be a good thing to do before resorting to the brute strength options.

I'll check the chucks in my shop and see if all the arbor mounted ones have a thru hole into the chuck body. If so, I'm going to kick myself for not using the punch and hammer method for removing the shanks. I spent an hour and a half a while back making up some wedges to switch a couple of drill chucks between my R8 mill and my #4 Morse drill press.

Learn something new here all the time...

[R.M.]

On some arbors, there's an undercut. Lay a dowel that's a bit larger than the undercut on both sides, laying in the groove, and tighten them in a vise. I'm having trouble describing the process, but I've done it numerous times, and it works, if it's a tapered arbor.

[scrapcan]

Pat,

What make of chuck and arbor are they. It may help to know as some also have threaded shanks and may have a screw holding the chuck to the shank. open it up all the way and look inside to see if you see an allen head. Just one more option as you just never know who made it or how it was made.

[dragonrider]

If your chuck has no hole in the center, many do not, you can drill a hole easily they are not hardened. I have used a 17/64 drill and then a 1/4 punch.

[PatMarlin]

If your chuck has no hole in the center, many do not, you can drill a hole easily they are not hardened. I have used a 17/64 drill and then a 1/4 punch.


I think Paul gets the door prize on this one.

Drinks around the house are on him ...:mrgreen:

[PatMarlin]

On some arbors, there's an undercut. Lay a dowel that's a bit larger than the undercut on both sides, laying in the groove, and tighten them in a vise. I'm having trouble describing the process, but I've done it numerous times, and it works, if it's a tapered arbor.

Just caught this one. That is a neat idea. I'll have to check, but looks like drilling is going to be the fastest and easiest.

It's a German made keyless chuck with a JT33 taper. I ordered a Jacobs replacement shaft with a 5/8" shank. All my Hardinge toolholders are 5/8".

You know I've got to say it is incredable here at Cast Boolits. There is such a wealth of knowledge here, and the help is amazing. I don't even bother to ask questions at places like Practicle Machinist anymore as it's pretty much been a waste of time with those guys,. I guess if you're not running a 200k Fadel VMC you are beneath the bar and don't warrant replies for a lot of stuff.

There are some good guys overthere but a lot of elitist it seems. I say why go anywhere else?

[deltaenterprizes]

Did you get it loose?

[Marvin S]

If you get the wedges you will need two of them, one in from each side.

[PatMarlin]

I'm gonna get to it this morning. Drilling it is going to be the easiest I think. Will see here soon as I get some more coffee in me and get going.

[scrapcan]

well coffee and a drill and a big hammer can only mean good things in the morning!

[JIMinPHX]

Instead of removing the Morse taper arbor & replacing it with a straight arbor, have you thought of just turning down the taper into a straight shank?

Just turn a piece of cold roll down to the maximum diameter the drill chuck can hold, chuck on it good & tight, then put the tail stock into the back of the Morse taper & have at it with an OD turning tool until you get down to the 5/8" diameter that you want.

I've done this a bunch of times. It works great as long as the taper isn't hardened & it guarantees that the shank & the chuck teeth will run true to each other. I usually try to go about .0005" under nominal on a tool shank diameter like that.

If you really do need to remove it, I would drill & tap the end of the Morse taper with a 3/8" NF thread & then put a piece of pipe over the taper & use a bolt & a big thick washer as a puller. Be sure to oil up the threads real good if you do it this way.

[PatMarlin]

I got the shaft out.

It looked like it went clear through after all so I tried to drive it out. Well I found out it does not go throught but whilst giving it few whacks, it fell out... :mrgreen: