Chopping a barrel?

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Howdy!

I'm thinking of buying a gun for my wife who is "youth" sized, and I have found a gun on gunbroker that has the 25" barrel . . . and the last 2 inches seem to be bad . . . I'm thinking why not pick this up cheap, and get the barrel chopped to about 20" - 21" and re-crowned and chop the stock, and make our own "youth" sized gun.

Are there any down sides to this?

Is this a job for the "average" gunsmith?

What do you think it will cost for the barrel shortening? (I can cut the wood stock myself)

[Heavy lead]

I've chopped a couple of barrels myself in the past with good results, Brownells has the tools, along with a good fine toothed hacksaw. Both shot better after than before. So I must have done something right.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Hmmm . . . I hadn't thought I could do the crown myself . . . I sure have run a hacksaw abit! :bigsmyl2:

Thanks!

[dk17hmr]

I chopped a 22" 45-70 barrel down to 16.5" with a hacksaw. To give an index mark to get a good straight cut I used a pipe cutter. Filed and stoned the muzzle and used a chamfer bit to to give it a crown....shot just as good as before.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

I do have a big pipe cutter too, that would make a nice line to follow . . . so you file then stone the outside edge of the barrel, and use one of these http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=628/Product/79_deg__MUZZLE_CROWNING_CUTTER for the crown?

Is 79 degrees good, I saw some at 45 . . .

[HeavyMetal]

The 79 degree one is the "target" AKA 11 Degree tool.

I bought this a few years ago and have been real happy with every use!

[dubber123]

The Brownells tool works well. It is a great tool to have if you tend to buy alot of old revolvers with wallowed out muzzles due to poor cleaning practices. :) It works equally well on rifles. Once you know the diameter of the pilot shank, it's easy to make the correct sized pilots for different bores, which will save you some money.

[44man]

Hacksaw and a good file does great. I silver solder a ball bearing on a rod and use valve grinding compound for the crown. Lap just like doing a valve. Some guys use a brass round head screw. Screw it into the end of a stick and turn it between your palms.
If you file the end of the barrel exactly perpendicular to the bore, the crown will be straight.
I never lap deep, just until the lands are down so the lap breaks the edges of the grooves nicely.

[Bloodman14]

Got access to a lathe? Know someone who knows how to use it? There ya' go!
My $.02.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
I have hack sawed several revolver and rifle barrels. All I needed was that hack saw... masking tape to protect the area NOT to be sawn, a square to keep everything straight and a file to finish it flat. A tapered grinding stone was used to finish the inside of the muzzle.
All my guns shot far better as they all suffered from muzzle wear.
A really old collector piece I would not do UNLESS it was already somewhat modified.

[Echo]

I love this forum!

[Wayne Smith]

Depending on the cartridge be aware that you will substantially increase muzzle blast, or at least the awareness of it. I would be careful what cartridge I did this with. 7x57/7-08 might be a good starting point. I wouldn't go more than those for a small frame woman. You might be thinking .243 but it's a higher pressure cartridge and thus more muzzle blast. If you want to go smaller think .257 Roberts.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Wayne,

I'm talking .22lr

I think I'll try the hacksaw/file trick at about 22" . I'fn it doesn't work well. I'll practice again,at 21" and even 20" . . . and then if I have to, take it to someone! My first 22 was a 514bc, had a 19" barrel, shot good too, but was a single shot.

I really like the old Remington 511 & 521's, and if I can get one at the right price,I don't mind shortening it, I don't need to even worry about the front sight, as I plan on putting a scope on it.

[AZ-Stew]

Ths only drawback to the shorter barrel is that it usually makes the forend of the stock look disproportionally long. So you have to shorten the forend. Then the buttstock will look long, so you have to trim a bit off that, as well. Eventually, if you're careful and don't take too much off at one time, you'll end up with a nicely balanced "youth" rifle.

Regards,

Stew

[Adam10mm]

I always use a vise to keep a straight cut. Wrap a sheet of lead around the barrel as to not mar its finish. Tighten the jaws on the vise. Cut away, then face it with the Brownell's muzzle crowinging too.