Making 380 acp cases from 5.56

[sheepdog]

Looks like the sizes are all right when cut to length and that the cases are very stout, my only concern is the reduction in case volume due to the much thick brass of the 5.56. Anyone tried this?

[skeettx]

WHY?? When you can buy from Starline for a small cost in SWEAT !!

http://www.starlinebrass.com/

380 AUTO (Small Pistol primer) .672"-.678" O.A.L.
A.K.A. the 9mm Kurz/9x17mm/.380 ACP, this cartridge was designed for use in small framed automatic pistols.

Pack: 500 (+$64.45)1000 (+$114.00)

Now BEFORE the 7.62x25 craze (and brass availability) I used to make them from 5.56 cases and they did quite well.

Mike

[sheepdog]

Now BEFORE the 7.62x25 craze (and brass availability) I used to make them from 5.56 cases and they did quite well.

Mike

You can make 763x25 from 556? thought the base wasnt big enough

[deltaenterprizes]

I had looked at the possibility of making .380 brass from .223 cases also. Once the neck splits it would be a nice way to give the case a second life. A reamer made from drill rod to make the internal capacity the same as commercial .380 cases would be a plus after parting off the excess while held in a 5c collet in the lathe would be the way to go.

[skeettx]

I have shot many hundreds of loads of 7.62x25 (.380 base) made from 5.56 brass (.375 base) from my 3 CZ-52s and also from 1 Broomhandle. I use a cast bullet, unique and standard small pistol primer. No problems at all. I have an RCBS trim die, and run the case with extended shell holder up, whack it off with a small jewelers hack saw. Inside neck ream with a .308 Forster reamer while trimming to final length, inside and outside chamfer lightly, full length size , take out military primer crimp if needed, and load as normal.

I have shot some .312 hollow point jacketed bullets but had to inside neck ream to .312 on the few cases I tried for it and had to watch the pressures, but they shot well and were very effective. Without the special inside next ream the cases would not chamber with a bullet seated.

P.S. I used to use the hand operated Forster trimmer, then went to the drill press Forster trimmer and then went to the RCBS motor trimmer and modified the cutter to use the Forster reamers and spuds.

[MtGun44]

Case capacity would be very small due to thick base. Without machining (as said above)
on the inside, using normal loading data would be very dangerous. Huge amount
of work to make marginal to dangerous brass.

[Freischütz]

I made a lot of 7.63 Mauser brass from 5.56, 222, and 221 cases. All required neck reaming. I would think a lot of neck reaming will be needed for 5.56 to 380 conversions. You're down in the thickest part of the case.

The 7.63 conversions had undersized case heads. But the cases just expanded to fill the chamber, and I never had any problem with them.

After all that work making them, I hunted down every one my C96 ejected. It liked to throw them forward so I spent a lot of time remembering where they landed and waitin for a cease fire when I could go down range and retrieve them.

[Firebricker]

Never tried it but on a similiar note I read an article in an old Handloader magazine about making .44 Mag out of 30/06 brass. I see either as too work not enough reward but like knowing you could if you had to.

A few monthes ago when you could'nt find anything .380 is a good example why it's a good idea to know how to do thing like that. FB

[jimkim]

Never tried it but on a similiar note I read an article in an old Handloader magazine about making .44 Mag out of 30/06 brass. I see either as too work not enough reward but like knowing you could if you had to.

A few monthes ago when you could'nt find anything .380 is a good example why it's a good idea to know how to do thing like that. FB

Are you sure that wasn't 44 AMP?

[Firebricker]

jim, I'm sure I'll look this weekend to find the # HL it was in. I can't remember all the details on how they got a slight rim on it. The mag was from the 60's it was interesting reading. FB

[MtGun44]

That would be .44 Automag. I had the pistol in the 70s and most folks used .308 brass,
although no reason .30-06 wouldn't work, just more to cut off the front.

No way to make .44 mag from a rimmless case - the brass is GONE for the rim. .44 AMP
was the exact same rimless head as 7x57,8x57,.30-06, .308, etc. so just trim and go.

Bill

[Firebricker]

I found the article in Handloader #67 June/July 1977 " Economy.44 Mag Brass 44-06 "
By Wayne Blackwell. I'm not saying it's practical or safe just passing info on because I find it interesting.

Blackwell lines out the whole process which is rather lengthy out. You form the makeshift rim by running the cut down case in .44 mag die till case is flush with bottom of die. Then with a piece of 3/8 round stock to drive it out.


The differnce in nominal OD's between two cases allows for a rim. He outline's everthing to do to adjust headspace slightly if needed. I don't type near fast enough to cover the whole process but it' doable if you were desperate for .44 mag brass.

I cut down a .308 case and and sized it primed it and fired the primer in my revolver and extracted with no problem. That's as far as I'm taking it's just nice to know you could if needed. FB

[NoDakJak]

In the mid eighties I made 9mm Largo brass from 5.56. Reaming them was a real pain, specially as the old Astra threw the brass all over the countryside. I finally gave up and sold the pistol. I have made several hundred of both Mk1 and Mk2 455 Webley cases from 45 Colt. I have made several hundred 7.62 Nagant cases from 32.20. Usually just have to trim and chamfer the case but sometimes have to thin the rims a bit. I also use 32.20 brass tomake .310 Greener cases for the small Martinis. Trim to length and thin the rims. I then thin the rims on a lathe. Before I owned a lathe I would chuck the case in a drill press and thin the rims with a file. This is a cut and try operation as you use the rifles chamber as a case gage. After you do a few you develope a feel for the operation and it goes fairly quick. Hope that this info helps someone. Neil

[Capn Jack]

Cut down -06 cases make dandy "Shot Shells" for the 1917 Colt Revolver. Use .410 shotgun wads over 2400, #6 shot topped with a .410 nitrocard and finish up with a roll crimp in a .44 die. You're ready for small game and hip shooting quail.

[skeettx]

YES!!!! They are great cylinder length, also if you do not like using the half moon clips, give the 444 Marlin case a try doing the same thing, use the chamber to hold the case back against the face for the firing pin strike.
Mike

[MtGun44]

IIRC the 1917 Colts were bored straight thru, so perfect for a long constant diam
shotshell. Not so good in a S&W with a throat.

Bill

[Capn Jack]

As I remember they would shoot through 1/4" plywood the length of my garage with about an 18" pattern.:Fire:

The only handgun I could shoot a tin can thrown into the air with...:wink: :holysheep

Jack :coffeecom

[Harter66]

Did that in my BlackHawk colt too. Gives me a place to use all of the split necks and shoulders. I am the pack rat scrounger , Schofields and auto rims headstamped 303 Britt and 30-40. Made 32 Rem out of 30-30 and 32 Win. I will have to try 223 to 380/9mm family. I was thinking 357/35 Whelen jackets.

Always something new in here!

[rbstern]

Seems like any of the .223 brass conversions would be an ideal way to use Federal commercial headstamp brass, which has a reputation for too thin a base.

[pdawg_shooter]

Made a lot of 38 Super brass from .223 over the years. Adjusted the length to headspace off the mouth of the case like 45ACP. worked great. lasted real good.

[Shiloh]

Why not just but them, and use the time and energy for shooting??

Shiloh