cylinder and forcing cone ajustments,,, and mold choices

[magmoose]

QUESTION SET # 1

I have two SBH Bisleys in 44 Mag (including blue SBH and stainless hunter) and want to ream cylinder throats to a uniform size.

The blue revolver has cylinder throats that are as follows: four holes at .430 and two holes measuring .431... The stainless hunter has four holes at .4315 and two with .4317. ANY SUGGESTIONS??? ARE THE DIFFERENCES ENUF TO WORRY ABOUT???

I also want to chamfer forcing cones to 11 degrees. An hour on Brownell site has me confused about what I need to do the two jobs (cylinder throats and forcing cones). Their product descriptions aren't clear (to me) about what is included. The cylinder reamer includes one guide for .431, but a guide kit includes six more sizes stepping up .0005 with each.

The 44 forcing cone cutter(s) come in four cutter diameters including: .540, .560, .625 and .687... Is there a correct one for a Ruger SBH 44 Mag w/ 7.5 inch barrel.

Has anyone recently bought these from Brownells or other retailer and would be willing to share the parts list???

QUESTION 2.

I recently got my first bullet mold and cast about 400 bullets this past weekend. I got the RCBS 44 250 Keith. I read some of the reviews and saw that some said the the mold throws a bullet .431 - 432. It doesn't though,,, but produces a very consistent .430. The bullets drops through the larger cylinder throats on both revolvers. Is this bullet too small,,, and, if so, any recommendations on a store-bought or custom mold???

So sorry for the long post!

thanks

moose

[Bass Ackward]

Try the guns and the mold.

I would guess that the stainless will be more than fine unless you should need bigger but you don't list your bore diameters. Slug those too if you haven't.

The only candidate for reaming might be the blued. But why buy? Why not rent everything that you need "IF" you need it?

http://www.4-dproducts.com/tooldisplay.php


There are mold makers galore on this site. Look under vendor sponsors again "IF" you need a mold. Hard to answer you outright when you don't say a weight or a purpose.

If you are going to ream and you plan on choking, (filling the throat) realize that your "final" throat diameters will be about .001 - .0015 more than the size reamer you want to use when the tool marks clean out of it.

Just please try them first.

I missed the forcing cone cutter question. You can cut one. Or let the bullet wear the perfect one in for you. Takes about 2000 rounds without lapping. On this I say to try it first. Cause you want one as small as possible and that is driven by the misalignment. Only Professor Gun knows for sure. Cut too small and you will be wearing one in anyway.

[cajun shooter]

The reason to cut 11 degree cones is for lead bullet firing in competition mostly. My revolvers that I use in SASS are cut to 11. It stops such things as spitting lead at the guy next to you and gives the bullet a lining up for the bore it is about to enter. Your bore size is also needed to make that decision and should be slugged. A longer forcing cone has always been believed to give your bullets an easier path into the bbl with the result being better accuracy. A gun that is used for hunting might not need it done.

[462]

Magmoose,
Welcome.

As part of the one-step-at-a-time process to eliminate leading in a .357 Blackhawk, an 11* forcing cone cut made more of a difference than anything else. I seriously doubt that adjusting alloy composition and load, by themselves, would have solved the problem.

I'm in agreement with BA regarding leaving the cylinder reaming until last, if at all. Slug the barrels, shoot the boolits, and report back.

[magmoose]

thanks,,, I think you're right about taking a step at a time.

I slugged the barrels and found them to be very close at .4295. The blue one has a little roughness about 2/3rds down toward the breech...

I do think I'll adjust the forcing cone angle to 11 degrees and load some bullets from the rcbs mold (.430) for the blue. I hope to order a .431 WFN 300 gr GC from LBT real soon. Anyone willing to share an opinion about the LBT mold, 300 gr for Mississippi deer hunting and gas checks would be appreciated

moose

[MtGun44]

Moose,
No offense but I kinda doubt you can actually measure .0002 ID difference on your
throats. Maybe so, it can be done, but it usually takes a real old hand with a micrometer and
multiple slugs driven thru. That is out on the edge of what can be done with ordinary
measuring tools. Maybe you qualify, and if you do - I apologize. But, it is real
easy for a beginner to think that the measuring tools they have can do more than they
really can. I've had people reporting .0002 accy from a caliper that is rated at +/- .001; that is
science fiction. A little bit of science, a bunch of fiction.

In any case if the actual dimensions of your throats are within .0002, then you better leave
that babe alone! This is as good as it gets.

I doubt that the .001 difference will be a anything big, the way to find out is to mark the two
bigger holes and note if they shoot out of the group from the other 4 holes.

[StarMetal]

Shoot some jacketed through the one that had a little roughness then clean it thoroughly and check for the rough spot again. Don't let anyone talk you into fire lapping. Shoot the jacketed first.

I'm in agreement with shooting what you have first to see what it does.

[Bass Ackward]

I do think I'll adjust the forcing cone angle to 11 degrees and load some bullets from the rcbs mold (.430) for the blue. moose


I want to wish you good luck.

The LBT will be more than adequate if your guns are alright.

[Bass Ackward]

Shoot some jacketed through the one that had a little roughness then clean it thoroughly and check for the rough spot again. Don't let anyone talk you into fire lapping. Shoot the jacketed first.

I'm in agreement with shooting what you have first to see what it does.



One of these days we got to talk about this anti-fire lap crusade.

[magmoose]

thanks to all and especially MtGun44. Regarding the measurement,,, agreed!!! However, my brother-in-law verified the measurement. According to him he knows everything!!!!!!

Seriously, I'm new to this and find that it's hard to sleep thinking about it. I appreciate your help, honest input and tolerance.

moose

[Whitespider]

magmoose-
I don’t believe it’s necessary for me to add to the advice you’ve already received from this thread; other than to agree with those that advised you to ‘shoot first, adjust later (if needed)’. But, when and if the time comes to order tools from Brownells, just give them a call and talk with one of the techs. They’re extremely friendly and helpful and will suggest/guide you to the appropriate tools needed (such as sizes, lengths, types, etc.).

[243winxb]

Don't forget cylinder timing while your rebuilding your guns.

[Echo]

I didn't see where you mentioned the alloy you are using. It is possible to increase the as-cast size of your boolits by increasing the hardness of the alloy - harder alloy doesn't shrink as much, or so I've been told. If you are using straight WW's, or WW+2% Sn, try 50/50 WW/Lino, and see if you don't gain at least a half thou in as-cast diameter.

And welcome to the forum!

[Doby45]

You could also beagle your mould and then size it.