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Tom_et
06-01-2010, 05:28 PM
I got this in a" Pay it forward" type offer
I now need to figure how to get it too work ?
Thats where you experts come in :-o
I am Missing the inner Lube ROD ? the one that goes inside the Lube Holder ?
Can I make one ? or use a part from another type machine ?
I took as many Pictures as I could so you guys can tell me what I need,
or if I have a scrap Pile.
I cleaned and sanded it ,It now seems to be somewhat functional ?
My plans are to use it on my ww cast 45's and 357's
I just started casting so excuse me for all the Green horn Questions
I know I will need sizer's but the Lube rod is my Concern at the moment
If anyone has one can you take a Picture of the Lube rod so I could
check it out ?
I also don't understand the function of the way it will Press the Lube down
in the You-tubes videos, I see they ratchet a top bolt or something too keep pressure on the lube to keep it Pushing into the sizer to fill the bullet
Makes me think the Rod Moves so the top Plate will screw down

Thanks
Tom

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5538.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5537.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5536.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5535.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5534.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5533.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5530.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5528.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i319/tommytt1/DSCF5527.jpg

dragonrider
06-01-2010, 07:29 PM
That's a remarkably clean lube sizer. I am pretty sure that Lyman will have the parts you want and that there is an exploded view diagram, parts list somewhere on the net but I have searched for half and hour and came up empty. Someone here will have a link to it.

AZ Pete
06-01-2010, 08:23 PM
The pressure screw from a 450 (or 4500?) will fit a 45, but you will need to ream out the reservoir cap to fit the larger diameter of the stem. Also you can get a new pressure nut that takes "o" rings (again for the 450/4500)....since you are going to pay shipping on the screw anyway.

Sorry I can't provide the part numbers, as I cannot find the diagram on the new improved Lyman parts web parts catelog (http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page150.html.) Hopefully someone will chime in if I got the parts names wrong. Anyway for a few bucks you will be in good shape.

phaessler
06-01-2010, 08:45 PM
The Lyman 450 exploded view is:
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/ss257/sharps20000/lyman450.jpg

The Lyman 4500 exploded view is :
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/ss257/sharps20000/lyman4500.jpg

Hope this helps....


Pete

94Doug
06-01-2010, 09:05 PM
I have a PDF of the 45 manual I can email you tomorrow from my home. Let me know if you want it.

It does not have a parts breakdown however.....

Doug

Tom_et
06-01-2010, 09:09 PM
You guys are Great
I see just what I've got and Need
and if there is More to Know I'm all ears
Many Thanks
Tom

cheese1566
06-01-2010, 11:00 PM
Yep,
order a new pressure screw and o-ring style nut.

In the first photos, the return push rod is upside down. The flat end should go on the top to push the inner of the sizer die up on the return stroke.

Just be careful not to over tighten the setscrew that hold sth esizer die on the casting. that area is prone to cracking if one is overzealous. But if so, they can be brazed and out back into action.

Looks good though! Sand blast and repaint in a color you like! The steel guide rods polish up nicely when chucked in a drill and spun with polish and a rag or #0000 steel wool.

Tom_et
06-02-2010, 09:00 AM
Cheese thank you
I looked at your Projects via the PM Nice work
Don't know if I have your Time Talent,Tools
But I really like how you do things
I will Polish the Rods
BTW when I got this it was Froze
and a Bit Dis Mantled
and real Filthy
what I did so far was with
Sand paper and Brake Cleaner
Tom

jaguarxk120
06-06-2010, 07:29 PM
Just finished up on one like yours. Came out very nice. Rustolium has the proper color orange paint for the Lyman tools. I took the paint off of the top cap and polished it with Mothers Mag Wheel polish, came out looking like chrome.

Tom_et
06-07-2010, 03:43 PM
Thanks for the Paint info
I think I'm going to have some time tonight to Clean up the slide rods

Tom

fryboy
06-07-2010, 03:49 PM
i used chevy orange hi heat fu fu can for mine ( seems to be holding up to the heat and the boiling better than what's on my rcbs and thaz original factory paint lolz )

Tom_et
06-07-2010, 03:55 PM
Hey what are you guys doing /using to Heat these things

Tom

StarMetal
06-07-2010, 09:14 PM
I got a spare luber that is the Lyman #45 and I modified it so it takes the threaded sizing die nut. I didn't like the arrangement Lyman had to secure the sizer die and it's obvious why they didn't use that system in the 450 and 4500. I also converted to the dual O-ring piston and now the machine is a good machine.

Echo
06-08-2010, 01:27 AM
Hey what are you guys doing /using to Heat these things

Tom

>I< use a drop light, when using a hard lube. Seldom happens, since I usually use 50/50. There are other methods...

Duckiller
06-08-2010, 04:23 PM
Tom_et: don't be afraid to call Lyman customer service. They will sell you the small parts at their price. If their price is high they will send you to someone (Mid-South/Midway) that will sell it cheaper. When ever I have talked to them they have been very knowledgeable and helpful.

dabsond
06-08-2010, 11:05 PM
I just had to order a new lube pressure screw from lyman. Part cost is $4, shipping was $4.

montana_charlie
06-10-2010, 02:13 PM
Hey what are you guys doing /using to Heat these things
I 'rearranged' the parts of a coffee cup warmer to create a heated base which the #45 mounts on top of.
The original control panel is still intact, which provides an on/off switch and a hi/lo switch. If you're patient, 'Hi' will raise press temperature up to about 100 degrees in a room temperature setting (which seems like plenty to me) and the 'Lo' setting will maintain that temperature pretty well.

However, I found that the BP lubes I use don't require heat. So, it never gets turned on any more...

CM

GP100man
06-11-2010, 09:15 PM
after the parts & paint , DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW THAT HOLDS THE DIE !!!!!

I found 2 45 sizers & both had the caseing split at the set screw , 1 looked new !

geargnasher
06-26-2010, 01:00 AM
OK, finally found this thread again. Just got an old 45 in good condition less handle and linkage, cleaned it up and tried it out tonight and works wonderfully except lube leaks past the plunger piston about the same rate as it is consumed by the boolits. What are you folks using to convert to o-ring-style piston? Is it the 450/4500 piston? Are the threads the same on the screw between all three, or will I need to get a screw from another model, too?

BTW, I have yet to figure out why anyone would consider the 450 an "upgrade" to the 45. On the 450 the die screw loves to cross-thread, the ram wears out the casting in just a few thousand cycles and bends boolits, the top punches have to be pulled out with pliers because of the blind hole in the ram, the "lock ring" on the bottom plunger stop won't stay put with just finger pressure, the handle has a tendency to whack one on the forehead if not parked properly, and everything takes either a wrench, pliers or an allen screw to disassemble/adjust. My 450 will have a new home tomorrow.

Gear

fryboy
06-27-2010, 12:37 AM
just the pressure nut and perhaps coupla spare o-rings , u could also order the whole starred kit # 2745817 . no handle huh ..i keep seein one on evil bay that i've seen whole sizers go for less , on the brass ring check for bends,nicks etc ,if it's leaking at the split some jb weld used judicially mite fix it ,if it's a large area that's leaking try gently expanding the ring there and try to use no more pressure than needed ( lil clicks )

geargnasher
06-27-2010, 01:08 AM
Thanks, Fryboy, I'll call Lyman and see if I can get one, or perhaps make one out of top cowhide formed like windmill standing-valve leathers that fits under the brass ring. The brass ring is undamaged, I checked it out very closely and did a "light test" in the res. bore with a light shining through the screw whole in the bottom, only gap was at the split. Thanks fo the tip on the handle, I'll see what Lyman wants for it. It came with a homade replacement, but it is entirely unsatisfactory. I might be able to build a correct one from those drawings.

Gear