Need some help

[Bad luck Bill]

I experienced bad muzzel leading from the last batch of bullets I cast. I used some old fishing weights that my Grandfather left me. I'm new to casting and I just scrounged a bunch of wheel weights and cast about 400 hundred boolits from the WW's. I like to shoot both lighter loads (under 1000 FPS) and some Magnum loads. Will the wheel weigh boolits be up to snuff for the magnum loads?

Here's some load data for you: I'm casting a 158gr. Lee SWC, using 11.0 gr. of 2400 out of a Ruger BlackHawk 6.5 inch barrel. I'm also using 6.5 grains of Unique under the same boolit with the same revolver. Do you think the wheel weight boolits will do okay with these loads, i.e., no leading, or barely no leading? I'm tumble lubing the bullets and then sizing, then retumble lubing after sizing them.

The first time I cast the boolits I sized them and then loaded them without re-lubing them. I was thinking maybe that was the reason I got bad muzzle leading, either that or my Grandfather's fishing weight lead wasn't hard enough. My oven is broke so I can't heat treat my WW boolits until I get the oven fixed. Any advice would be very welcome. I also have two more molds on the way, both Lee (Affordable) and both are tumble lube design. I wonder if they are really more accurate then traditional bullet designs? I really doubt the truth of that statement.

I also ordered some of that Frankfurt Arsenal "Drop Out" so the boolits fall out of the mold without any "bashing". The Lee mold I'm using now is a double cavity and one of the cavities is sticking horribly. It won't release the boolit no matter how hard I hit it with my wooden dowel! It doesn't make too much sense to hit a mold to begin with, at least in my humble opinion. I have to use a flat head screwdriver to "flick" the boolits out the sticky cavity. This really slows down casting time and most likely effects the temp of my mold.

thanks in advance,

Bad Luck Bill.

[David R]

Oly Cow!

First,

Your fishing weights are probably pure lead or close. Too soft. If you mix the lead with WW, you will have a harder boolit. Maybe 25% to 75% WW.

Lead at the muzzle is lube failure, so yes, lube em twice.

WW are plenty hard enough for your expectations.

To heat treat them you don't need an oven, just drop em in water right out of the mold. Some put a towel over the bucket with a slit in it to slow down the boolit and omit the Ker Splash. I use a 5 gal bucket at least 3/4 full of water so the boolits don't bump into each other when they get to the bottom.

Tumble Lube design is a swear at or swear by it design. You will decide. NO I personally think they are as accurate as conventional boolits. Only MY opinion on all of this.

Have a ball, welcome to the aslym.

David
Poor Speeler

[David R]

For your mold that won't drop the boolit, look at it with a magnafying glass. It prolly has a burr some where. be careful removing it. Its easly to get carried away.

I don't use drop out. I clean my mold with spray parts cleaner, pour 10 or so , then clean it again hot with a tooth brush and parts cleaner. I then smoke the cavities with a butane lighter. NOT a match or candle they both will put wax in your mold.

Boolits will then drop easily.

David

[Bad luck Bill]

Thanks for the replies guys,

I haven't yet shot the WW lot but I do agree, the fishing weights were most likely way too soft for anything over 1000 FPS. I've tried cleaning the mold cavities while hot (I used mineral spirits) and then smoked them with a butane lighter, still no luck! I'm hopeful that the wheel weight bullets will not lead like my last batch. I didn't quench them in water though, do you still think they'll be hard enough for Magnum use or should I save them for velocities below 1000 FPS?

I heard that graphite from a pencil might stop the mold cavity from sticking...think that might work? I need to find some way to magnify the cavity so I can tell whether or not there is a burr hanging up the mold.

thanks guys,

Bad Luck Bill.

[D.Mack]

Bad luck Bill Go to the bottom of the page and look for Cast Bullet Articles, click on it. There are a couple of articles on Lee moulds. Also mineral spirits may leave a residue in the cavities. Now for an unscientific axiom, although it is pressure more than velocity that causes leading, I take the brinell hardness number and multiply by 100, then multiply that number by 1.4. this gives me a rough velocity range that I use that alloy for. Yes it can be used for both lower and higher velocities, but its my general rule to simplify things. so yes your ww metal at 11 (or so) is quite suitable at velocities over 1000 fps. Now I'll sit back and wait for the condemnation of my personal rule. DM

[David R]

Couldn't you just multiply by140?

Comes out the same.

David

[44man]

First is to find and remove the burrs holding in your boolits. Rub the edges with a Scotchbrite pad or ink eraser.
second it does no harm to a mould to rap the handle pivot with a wooden stick.
Third, even though some swear by tumble lubing, my worst leading came from it. I have gone as much as 3 coats with no luck.

[1Shirt]

Bad Luck Bill! Buy yourself a Lyman Reloading manual, and for the time being forget the reloading data, but read, and then re-read all the information on casting, lead, hardness, lubes etc. Realize that there are some who don't like the Lyman manuals, but as far as I am concerned, there is no better general info on casting, based on many years of experiance than what Lyman publishes. Also suggest you find an experianced caster/loader in your area, and sit through a couple of sessions with him. Nothing beats the experiance of sucess and those who have achieved it.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[steveb]

Bad Luck Bill! Buy yourself a Lyman Reloading manual, and for the time being forget the reloading data, but read, and then re-read all the information on casting, lead, hardness, lubes etc. Realize that there are some who don't like the Lyman manuals, but as far as I am concerned, there is no better general info on casting, based on many years of experiance than what Lyman publishes. Also suggest you find an experianced caster/loader in your area, and sit through a couple of sessions with him. Nothing beats the experiance of sucess and those who have achieved it.
1Shirt!:coffee:

Welcome to the forum Bad Luck Bill:)

Ditto on getting a good manual or several manuals. Lyman cast bullet handbook, Lee, etc. As 1shirt stated read it, then read it again, and again.

[Bad luck Bill]

Sounds like good advice to me. I only have a first run of Modern Reloading by Richard Lee. I was going to get the Speer Reloading Manual but I think I'll check out the Lyman casting manual, sounds like fun...fun...fun :Fire:

I'm sending back my one Lee mold, I noticed that the aluminum is crushed on the front side where the pin is located...must have been a factory defect. Either way I have two new ones on the way (should be here by Monday or Tuesday) so it won't stop me from casting none. I need to get up to Cabela's in P.A. so I can buy some RCBS and Lyman molds and anything else that catches my eye :mrgreen: That place is a reloader's dream!

Thanks again guys,

BLB.

[Bass Ackward]

Sounds like good advice to me. I only have a first run of Modern Reloading by Richard Lee. I was going to get the Speer Reloading Manual but I think I'll check out the Lyman casting manual, sounds like fun...fun...fun :Fire:

I'm sending back my one Lee mold, I noticed that the aluminum is crushed on the front side where the pin is located...must have been a factory defect. Either way I have two new ones on the way (should be here by Monday or Tuesday) so it won't stop me from casting none. I need to get up to Cabela's in P.A. so I can buy some RCBS and Lyman molds and anything else that catches my eye :mrgreen: That place is a reloader's dream!

Thanks again guys,

BLB.


BLB,

If you like Cabella's, you can shop on line. Same, same.

[Bad luck Bill]

True, True...but I like to look around a bit and handle things instead of coveting them with only my eyes. It's only a little under two hours on the road from Maryland and it's a nice drive. Besides, any excuse I can muster to get away from Maryland is good enough for me. I live very close to Baltimore City...what a dump! And I've lived here all of my life, so if I offended anyone...you need to get out more, Baltimore is a sh*t hole!:mrgreen: Too many drug dealers and cancer....in the United States top ten for Cancer...I'd rather live in South Dakota, Pine Ridge, if I still wanted the same chance of dying from cancer, and without all of the drug dealing thugs!

Bad Luck Bill.

[Lloyd Smale]

lube pure bullets with a good lube and shoot them out of a good barrel with good chamber dimentions and properly sized and youd be suprised how fast you can push them without leading. Pesonaly i dont have much use for tumble lube. I was given a couple cases of it and i use it up by adding it to felix lube. Dont know if it helps my felix or not but i guess it cant hurt.

[D.Mack]

David R Yes for higher velocities, but the first number gives me a low end range to keep me from using too hard a bullet that wont obiturate at lower pressures. I can't find this in any reloading manual, it isn't a hard and fast rule, it just simplifies things for me. After re-reading my reply, I really didn't explain it very well, but now I hope it makes sense. DM

[georgeld]

Bad Luck Bill:

The book you want to get is: Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook.

It's about like a gun digest for size and costs about $12-18 depending on where. I got this one a couple yrs ago from Midway on a discount sale of books.
Mighty fine reading and lot's of advice.

[carpetman]

Bad Luck Bill---Who is to say as to what the fishing sinkers are made of? I know for sure I use whatever melts to make them and suspect most others do the same. I'd say the leading is more of a result of the lube than anything else. Yes,the Lyman manual is must have in my opinion. If you also shoot jacketed bullets get their regular manual and if strictly shooting cast you might get the Cast Manual---both have info about casting as well as data.

[robertbank]

Welcome to the forum and Casting. Home of idiots, morons, malcontents and eccentrics.

Plus one on the Lyman Manuals you can't go wrong.

Also get yourself a rabbits foot, a toad with warts and the head of a chicken because you are into major witch craft in the twilight zone politely called bullet casting.

Also send Felix an email requesting him to author a book on casting to save the rest of us hours of frustration.

Take Care

Bob

[Bucks Owin]

First is to find and remove the burrs holding in your boolits. Rub the edges with a Scotchbrite pad or ink eraser.
second it does no harm to a mould to rap the handle pivot with a wooden stick.
Third, even though some swear by tumble lubing, my worst leading came from it. I have gone as much as 3 coats with no luck.


Yep, and "me too"...

Dennis

[Rick N Bama]

I've done OK shooting a TL boolit in my 41mag M657 Smith, that is until the gun got hot then groups went to pot in a hurry. When the gun was cooled for a few minutes, the groups came back. The boolits were lubed twice with LLA and shot as cast.

I much prefer Felix lube over any alox, stick or liquid.

Rick

[PatMarlin]

Welcome to the forum BLB... :drinks:

You may want to start by changing your handle to "Good Luck Bill".. LOL!

-another pointer...

Make sure your alloy and mold is hot enough. I find a happy medium where boolits won't drop easy until they get to a certain temp, then they drop like gangbusters. Then you past that and get to a seriously hot frosted boolit where they may bend even whilst dropping (not lightly frosted, that's OK). Then cooler her down with a wet rag in a dish etc.