Old IDEAL unvented .

[GP100man]

I bought & recieved today an IDEAL 311413 mold it has no vent lines & it is very different castin with it !!!

You have to work with the mold much more than the late model stuff !!!!

Got it all cleaned & heated up , took 50 cast to get a good 1 [smilie=b: but when I did i was rollin:lovebooli

1st attempt some look cold , some look like there was oil in the mold & some sucked holes in the bases .

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx110/GP100man/102_0324.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx110/GP100man/102_0332.jpg

[scrapcan]

How about a picture of the mould. does it have integral handles or is it an early set of ideal cingle cavity blocks with removable handles?

[HORNET]

I usually find that the old unvented molds will work, but like to be run much hotter than the vented blocks. Both mold temp and alloy temp. They usually work well once you get them figured out and going.

[scrapcan]

Hornet,

Your statements mirror my experience with the exception of the single piece handle block tools. These you have to be careful as to how hot you get them or they will burn the handles and the handles can break or come loose.

[GLL]

I have always appreciated the craftsmanship on my old unvented IDEAL moulds ! They have nice clean, crisp machining !

Jerry

http://www.fototime.com/C643D1E99E994C6/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/E574E14FBE964F2/orig.jpg

[beemer]

I have an old Ideal 357446 that is unvented, it pours a nice boolit. Does anyone have any idea when they were changed.

Dave

[JIMinPHX]

When using the un-vented molds, especially the ones that make long skinny boolits, I find that it is best to hold the mold sideways, stick the ladle in from the side, start pouring, & then flip the mold & ladle into an upright position after the mold is about 2/3 full of lead. I find that I get a lot better fill out this way. If I use my normal pouring methods, I often get squiggly lines in the noses of the boolits.

[Bent Ramrod]

When you have finished casting, let the mould cool to room temperature with the handles open and the blocks separated. Oxygen will continue to blue the mould cavity surface, and the proportion of good castings should increase the next session.

[badgeredd]

I usually find that the old unvented molds will work, but like to be run much hotter than the vented blocks. Both mold temp and alloy temp. They usually work well once you get them figured out and going.

Thanks to Hornet several months ago, I found his statement to be the cure for me too. HOT and FAST til the mold settles in and then just a good rhythm to keep the mold at the best temp for cast nice boolits.

Edd

[Echo]

I found that lightly stoning the top corners of the blocks helped with venting. LIGHTLY, as in just a visible bright line!

[MtGun44]

GLL,
Now THAT is a REAL 429421 mold, must have been real early when they were concentrating
on what Elmer wanted.

Pretty cool. Good artifact to "prove" the original dimensions of the original Keith design.

Bill