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View Full Version : Bonding core to jacket, 40 from 9



JTknives
05-24-2010, 02:12 PM
I have been thinking about ways to bond the core to the jacket made from 9mm brass. And I got the Idea to flux the inside of the brass and slip in the core. Then heat the brass till the lead melts and solders Its self to the brass. This way you dont get air taped like if you where to swage it first. Also heating it to melt the lead would aneal the brass.

Dframe
05-24-2010, 05:51 PM
Sounds like a good solution to me. Much like the old "Hotcore" bullets of years gone by.

Radio Flyer
05-25-2010, 12:34 AM
I have been thinking about ways to bond the core to the jacket made from 9mm brass. And I got the Idea to flux the inside of the brass and slip in the core. Then heat the brass till the lead melts and solders Its self to the brass. This way you dont get air taped like if you where to swage it first. Also heating it to melt the lead would aneal the brass.

Yep, it is called bonding the core and is used often with rifle bullets made for hunting.

The method is detailed in the online versions of the Corbin swaging guide.

I use this trick for rifle bullets designed to take deer and elk and keep a large portion of the lead and jacket together.

ETG
05-25-2010, 01:32 AM
I tried it and the flux seemed to create bubbles. Had to use a toothpick to stick down in the cases to let the lead settle down ( I tried several hundred bullets not just a few. Used a q-tip to lightly apply the flux to the inside of the cases. Not real consistant. Personally I think using a core seating die works a lot better.

JTknives
05-25-2010, 01:55 AM
Good to know thanks

kawalekm
05-25-2010, 03:07 PM
I simply grabbed cases with a pair of long forceps and dunked them into the lead pot. Cases fill and the brass anneals at the same time. I then set them to solidify on a steel plate.

JTknives
05-25-2010, 03:30 PM
Did you flux first?

Harter66
05-25-2010, 04:08 PM
A bath in muratic acid does the trick in copper sweat fittings.

Have pondered the hot core since 1st reading some in here but got sidetracked.

I have put thought into the process but never applied it.

jonblack
08-15-2010, 03:44 PM
I simply grabbed cases with a pair of long forceps and dunked them into the lead pot. Cases fill and the brass anneals at the same time. I then set them to solidify on a steel plate.

Kawalekm

Can you tell us more about your technique? Specifically, I would like to know if lead sticks to the outside of the jacket. Also, how long do you leave them in the lead pot?

Thank you
jonblack

bdbullets
08-15-2010, 11:20 PM
This is the method I use in my 41mag bullets and having great success. I am using a set of dies I got from Brian (BTSNIPER). I use 9mm brass to make them with.
First I deprime the brass then give it a citric acid bath and rinse them out and dry them in a low temp oven, then run them thru the vibrator using corn cob media. I bell the mouth a little bit then set the core in them. Next I have a ceramic kiln that I use for this. I set them upright on a stainless steel sheet (about 150 at a time) in the kiln and turn it on for 35 minutes. The core and jacket will be bright red and the lead will melt and run into the primer pocket and fill it out perfectly. By the way I am using pure lead for these bullets. After they cool off I run them thru the core seater die to expand the brass to size and compress the lead. Then I run them thru the point form die. What I really like about this system is the core is also anchored to the jacket like a rivet and I have yet to get one to seperate. I am making 205-210gr. bullets for my Desert Eagle 41 mag. and have loaded them pretty hot for it.

JonB_in_Glencoe
08-16-2010, 07:09 AM
...and the lead will melt and run into the primer pocket and fill it out perfectly... What I really like about this system is the core is also anchored to the jacket like a rivet and I have yet to get one to seperate.

Neat, instead of a boat tail, it is more of a Dovetail :0
Jon

BT Sniper
08-17-2010, 12:10 AM
I need more guns! Sounds like the 41 is working out very well for you there BD. I havn't shot to many bonded custom bullets yet but have seen very high retained weight from these custom bullets with wheel weight alloy cores. In the 44 I generally get %90 or better and the few 40s I have retreived have yet to shed much of any weight yet mushroomed out quite nicly.

BT

BT Sniper
08-17-2010, 12:16 AM
http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/40buldge028.jpg

Just didn't see the need to bond yet with results like this. BOndig can make the core seating and annealing process a bit easier though. Certainly give it a try and see what you like.

I was going for the Hornady Critical Defence bullet here. I think once I add a airsoft bb to teh nose it will expand even better at lower FPS. This was the ww alloy at 950 FPS.

BT Sniper
08-17-2010, 12:19 AM
http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/crosscut429.jpg

Here is some of the 44 cal 255 grain ww alloy results. I love to see recovered bullet pics.

BT Sniper
08-17-2010, 12:27 AM
http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/DSCF9488.jpg

This one actually was bonded. You can notice the slight lead color left on the inside of the jacket. It again was ww alloy. I swabed teh inside of the jacket with liquid flux of some sort and then melted teh core to it.

It was an XTP copy with my notched tip to form six perfect petals. The jacket ectended to the tip of the bullet. When I was doing a bit of testing with the 44 designs I found that when a bit of lead was exposed at the tip it held on to the jacket better. When I notched the jacket and had no exposed lead I noticed a few seperated. Ofcourse I was shooting into dry paper magazines, a bit of a hard test media. I can tell you that these custom bullets held together better then the xtps I was testing against.

BT Sniper
08-17-2010, 12:28 AM
Sorry for the size. These are some of my older pics before I fgured out how to reduce them.

JonB_in_Glencoe
08-17-2010, 07:01 AM
BT,
photobucket has an edit feature where you can resize your photo.
it isn't real user friendly, and takes a bit of time.
Jon

bdbullets
08-17-2010, 02:42 PM
Here is the photo resizer that I use it is a very small file, free, and very easy to use.

http://www.freewarefiles.com/SimplePhotoResizer_program_45524.html

Bryan

Daywalker
08-17-2010, 04:56 PM
another option to post pics and change size, for me, far easier and friendlier to use than photobucket, www.tinypic.com you just show where your pic is, choose the size and hit upload, copy the img code and paste the code and your done. It even loads faster than photobucket IMO

a.squibload
08-18-2010, 03:12 AM
I was using max size setting in the camera in case a shot turned out so good I might want to print it.
Recently I figured out it's easier to set the camera on a lower setting (.3Mp) than to resize every shot.
Mostly send 'em over the wires instead of printing anyway.


BT, I wondered about that shot with the sliced boolits, was the mushroomed boolit notched?
It did peel back in petals.
I'm considering making a notching punch. Someday!

BT Sniper
08-18-2010, 03:55 AM
Yep, notched with the jacket to the top of the bullet. Basic XTP copy. Every one will peel right allong that line.

Don't worry guys pictures is not a problem for me. These where just way back when pics that I didn't bother resizing. Let's talk more bullets instead :) or at least see more pics of bonded vs unbonded bullets.


Good shooting

BT

uncleskippy
08-18-2010, 09:20 AM
Brian,

Do you still make the notched punch for sale?

Thanks

jonblack
08-18-2010, 12:19 PM
Depending on price, I'd probably be interested in a notched punch, too.

jonblack

BT Sniper
08-18-2010, 11:08 PM
Yes I still offer everything :)

I have made the notch punch work in a reloading seating die but if that is not an option it requires a core seat die. So yes it is avialable. Feel free to PM me for details.

BT

p.s. Jon, your 40 die shipped today. Should be there Friday or Saturday