Crossbolt Safety Sucks, and So Does My Ability to Rember to Click It Off!

[Suo Gan]

Just wanted to rant about the crossbolt safety on my Winchester. Another sickening click and the biggest pain in the ass coyote that I have finally got in my sights ran off when I pulled the trigger to the loud "CLICK". Why can't I remember to take it off? And why wasn't the half cock good enough? Old habits die hard. [smilie=b:

[hoosierlogger]

I know what you mean, I have a Heritage arms .22 .22 mag combo that I use as a critter control gun. It has a hammer block saftey. PITA when all you hear is click. However it is nice to use on new shooters who flinch when they shoot and are unaware of it, but firmly deny that the reason they cant hit anything is because they are flinching. Throw the hammer block on and give them the gun and tell them to shoot it.



Can you remove the crossbolt? or will it make it non functional?

[Lead Fred]

Ive only engaged mine once. Just pay it no mind,.
I got the replacement pin to get rid of the CBS on me Marlin, just because them make one.

[Blammer]

take a round "O" rubber grommet/rubberband and put it around the protruding part of the safety. It will keep it from engaging. Works for me.

[elk hunter]

Sou Gan,

You missed a coyote, my son-in-law and a friend both missed big bull elk because of the cross bolt safety on their Marlin 45-70's. Both stated the safety was bumped on while carrying the rifle as they never use the safety. Both rifles have had surgery to remove the offending part. Marlin and Winchester were both trying to come up with lawyer proof rifles, I'm positive neither succeeded.

[Rickk]

+1 to Blammer's comment on the O-Ring. I put one on my Guide Gun and have not regretted it. Can be easily removed if you want the safety feature to unload or some other reason.
Rick

[Larry Gibson]

I've had 2 M94AEs with the cross bolt safties, still have one. I tried just leaving the safety in the fired position but it protruded so far out the left side that it was forever getting pushed back in inadvertantly. With my first M94AE I just took the safety out. Before someone yells about removing a safety understand that the crossbolt on the M94 is redundent. There is another much more effective safety. The hammer rebounds and a block goes between the hammer and receiver preventing the mammer from hitting the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled all the way back. This is just like the safety block on S&W, ruger, etc handguns. Addionally the trigger can not be pulled unless the lever is forcefully closed by the shooter. Thus there are two basic safeties on the M94 and the crossbolt safety (third one) is redundent and not necessary. After tiring of the gaping hole in the receiver i just ground the blocking portion off the safety so the hammer would hit the firing pin with the safety in the "safe" position. It worked fine after that and I never got that dreaded "click" again. A friend offered me too much $s for it so I sold it to him. I had got a replacement safety so it could be put in but he didn't want it.

A few years back I found a Black Shadow M94AE (looks like a M64 only with composite stocks) in excellent condition in a gunshop in NC, it followed me home. I quickly did the same to that safety. However I got misfires and it was apparent the hammer was not hitting the firing pin hard enough. With the safety removed there were no misfires so it was obvious the safety was cushining the hammer's blow. I ground off some of the offending area of the safety so the hammer makes no contact with the safety and all is well. I really like the extended sight radius the 24" barrel gives with the receiver sight and with a 2.5X scope mounted low it makes for a very nice M94. With Paco Kelly loads or the Hornady LeveRevolution ammo it is indeed a 300 yard deer rifle. Shoots cast (311041HPs or the GB 311041s) bullets very, very well also.

I am not recommending anyone alter the safety on their rifle, just telling what i did. What you do is up to you. I have a replacement safety to return the rifle to original anyway.

Larry Gibson

[Suo Gan]

I always wanted another safety on my 1911, I will surely run right out and buy one when they come out :roll:

[Catshooter]

I O-ringed (rang?) mine. Poor idea, that safety.


Cat

[Mk42gunner]

I firmly beleive that a manual safety on a rifle or shotgun with an exposed hammer is not needed for safe handling, but it can help when downloading at the end of the day.

I modified the safety on my M94AE by putting it in the off position; marking where it met the side of the receiver, then removing it, and cut the protruding part off. After polishing and cold bluing the end I put it back in the gun. The safety still works if I ever want it, I just have to push the recessed button with something, (stick, cartridge, etc.)

On a Marlin crossbolt IIRC there is an allen haeded setscrew under the buttstock that can be tightened to stop the safety from moving inadvertantly.

Robert

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

The two Marlin 1894's we have (44Mag & 357Mag) I just insisted that I buy a pre-safety gun!

Here is a way to safely unload a lever . . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCn3fxRhmB8 without chambering each round, I'm a little slower, but it works!

[smilie=s:

[BABore]

On the Marlin, there's another way to keep the safety firmly in the off position. Remove the buttstock and you'll be able to see into the end of the frame. You may have to remove the hammer and mainspring for this as well. It's been awhile. Anyway, the safety is cylindrical with a machined flat on the back side. There's a set screw mounted in the frame that runs perpendicular to the safety. It rides against the flat for anti-rotation purposes. It is usually Loc-Tite'd in place. With the safety in the off position, break loose the screw and run it in tight against the safety barrel. Can't be moved now and is reversible. I've also used the rubber o-ring method on the outside. It works, but you still have to keep an eye on it occasionally.

[Lloyd Smale]

marllins are a piece of cake as they sell the kit that removes it and replaces it with a plug that looks like a screw head. The winchesters have a big dished out cut in the reciever that is going to be ugly no matter what you do. I dont plan on selling my big bore 356 so i just put a couple drops of super glue gell on the safety and it cant go anywhere now. Still got that wart on the side of the gun though.

[Suo Gan]

http://www.chuckhawks.com/win94_safety.htm

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

A friend of mine, a real World Class worrier, thinks the cross bolt safety is the real ticket. Great idea.:groner:

Right Bill, NOT!

Bill and I just don't talk about it.

He thinks the old tried and true way isn't safe. Sure Bill, whatever.

Yes some accidents happen but people are killed in cars/trucks everyday and I don't see him sell'in his.:veryconfu

Oh my I feel so safe now, think I'll vote in somemore liberals, NOT![smilie=b:[smilie=b:

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[stubshaft]

On the Marlin, there's another way to keep the safety firmly in the off position. Remove the buttstock and you'll be able to see into the end of the frame. You may have to remove the hammer and mainspring for this as well. It's been awhile. Anyway, the safety is cylindrical with a machined flat on the back side. There's a set screw mounted in the frame that runs perpendicular to the safety. It rides against the flat for anti-rotation purposes. It is usually Loc-Tite'd in place. With the safety in the off position, break loose the screw and run it in tight against the safety barrel. Can't be moved now and is reversible. I've also used the rubber o-ring method on the outside. It works, but you still have to keep an eye on it occasionally.


+1

I have used the same method on all of my Marlins with this abortion on them. The advantage is that the parts are still there should you decided to sell it and it doesn't cost a thing.