Need some Lube help

[mleeber]

I am getting ready to load some 1500-1800 FPS loads for my 1895GS in 45/70. Up to this point I have used either paper patch bullets or some of the Gould 330gr bullets moving about 1200 fps (Springfield loads) and lubed with Lyman Super Moly. I find the super moly to be very sticky. A buddy gave me some RCBS rifle lube, 80003 I think, that is tan in color and appears to be alox based but I have never tried it. I also picked up some White Label Lube Co Carnuba Red 2700 FPS stuff that I have not tried. Anyone have experience with any of these? I am going to settle on one lube (all my cast stuff is either 45/70 or 45 ACP) and since cleaning the 4500 is going to be a PITA I only want to do it once. It currently has the Lyman Super Moly in it.

Thanks!

[leadman]

Carnuba Red should work well for your needs. Don't know where you are located but if in a very warm area you will want to store them neatly in boxes or something, not jumbled together as this will tend to pull the lube out of the grooves. Minor issue.

I use CR for my 1903A3 match loads with Lyman 311041 and shoot 50 or more rounds without cleaning in a match and no leading.

If you have a heat gun or hair dryer you can use this to get the end of the lube out of the sizer. Take to die out and use the screw to get out as much as you can, then scoop out what you can with a popsicle stick or something, then the heat gun to melt out the rest.

[mleeber]

Thanks Leadman! I had not thought of a hair dryer!

[RobS]

If you do not like sticky etc then Lars Carnuba Red will be the ticket you are looking for. As already metioned it will need a bit of heat to flow easily through a lube/sizer. You mentioned that you have the Lyman 4500 and instead of their prob design heater that has no temperature control you could make a base heater from some 1/4" aluminum plate and a cheapo clothes iron. There is probably a thread about this somewhere on the forum.

[RobS]

Here is a thread that has some pics.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=73761&highlight=lubesizer+heater

[imashooter2]

The Carnauba Red has worked well for me. I've used it well over 2,000 fps in .30/30 and 1,800 fps in .357 mag with no issues.

My heater is an old iron that I place on the back of a .135 steel mounting plate. My plate is bolted straight to the wooden bench top. No need to space it off, you won't be getting the iron very hot at all.

[RobS]

The Carnauba Red has worked well for me. I've used it well over 2,000 fps in .30/30 and 1,800 fps in .357 mag with no issues.

My heater is an old iron that I place on the back of a .135 steel mounting plate. My plate is bolted straight to the wooden bench top. No need to space it off, you won't be getting the iron very hot at all.

I put spacers on mine for the simple reason if I want to clean old lube out or change lubes then it is as simple as cranking the heat way up on the iron. It gets really hot to the point that if you touch things it will burn the heck out of you. For this reason I feel that it's a bit too much heat for my liking on a wooden bench. If you don't ever plan on cleaning the lubricator out or plan on taking it off your bench to clean out old lube then there would be no need to have spacers to keep heat off the bench.

FWIW

[fredj338]

I'm shooting Carnuba red w/ the RCBS 325 (actually about 340 cast from ww) @ 1600fps w/ no visible leadng. Accuracy is acceptable for me w/ 2" 100yd groups (still working to better that).

[geargnasher]

I'm shooting Carnuba red w/ the RCBS 325 (actually about 340 cast from ww) @ 1600fps w/ no visible leadng. Accuracy is acceptable for me w/ 2" 100yd groups (still working to better that).

I don't know what gun you're using or the twist, but heavier boolits (500 grain) always shot better for me in the .45-70, although 2 moa at 100 ain't bad!

Gear

[imashooter2]

I put spacers on mine for the simple reason if I want to clean old lube out or change lubes then it is as simple as cranking the heat way up on the iron. It gets really hot to the point that if you touch things it will burn the heck out of you. For this reason I feel that it's a bit too much heat for my liking on a wooden bench. If you don't ever plan on cleaning the lubricator out or plan on taking it off your bench to clean out old lube then there would be no need to have spacers to keep heat off the bench.

FWIW

I suppose you have a point if you're going to crank the iron to high and leave it sit for more than a couple minutes. But unless those spacers are made of something that doesn't conduct heat, you're right back in the same boat you started in. Bolts too.

FWIW, I boil mine for clean out.

[RP]

Several ways to remove lube I push die down to expose ports and pump out the lube. Then remove die and use a heat gun to remove the rest. Or just add new lube and work the old out as you size.

[runfiverun]

just mix it all together you aren't gonna stress any of those lubes.
one of my better rifle lubes is two sticks of 50-50 one of the red and a half of the moly.

[RobS]

I suppose you have a point if you're going to crank the iron to high and leave it sit for more than a couple minutes. But unless those spacers are made of something that doesn't conduct heat, you're right back in the same boat you started in. Bolts too.

FWIW, I boil mine for clean out.

fiber washers at your local hardware store between the spacers and the bench. Also surface area on this one makes sense to me..............four spots that are 1/2" vs an entire plate that is 4X10" will have less heat on the bench.