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44man
05-18-2010, 02:01 PM
I made two, one for the .500 Linebaugh and one for the .500 JRH.
Way too much hand work with my limited equipment. I have to cut the sprue taper with the lathe because of the scrap stainless I use. This stuff will EAT a countersink. :veryconfu
I don't have a single penny in any mold so far, all scrap and just time.
I will post as we work on these calibers.

Changeling
05-18-2010, 04:01 PM
Are those multiple grease groves like I saw on a RD mold? What is the meplat size and bullet weight?

They sure don't look small/light, so I guess the 296/H110 is waiting on the bench, LOL.

44man
05-18-2010, 04:45 PM
I don't know the weight yet but one will be about 530 gr and the other about 425.
One has two GG's and the other has three. Not TL design.
Meplats are .360 to .375.
Time to hot the pot and see what I came up with.

Maven
05-18-2010, 04:53 PM
Beautiful workmanship there 44man!

dragonrider
05-18-2010, 05:29 PM
Nice work, waiting to see what they look like.

Lloyd Smale
05-18-2010, 05:36 PM
look real nice pal! i didnt know you had a 500 linebaugh.

Changeling
05-18-2010, 08:45 PM
I don't know the weight yet but one will be about 530 gr and the other about 425.
One has two GG's and the other has three. Not TL design.
Meplats are .360 to .375.
Time to hot the pot and see what I came up with.


From the time you and the other guys started teaching me about "Cast", I wondered why mold makers just didn't use SS for the molds, makes a lot of sense.

The 500 Limebaugh, is that Whitworths mortar?

redneckdan
05-18-2010, 09:46 PM
Stainless can be a pain to work with for production, much more than aluminum or cast in my experience. Other than that I don't see any reason why not. I do know that stainless conducts heat slower than aluminum. K values for stainless steel, iron, brass and aluminium are: 18 ; 75; 109; and 250 W/mK respectively. That means the tendancy of iron moulds to take longer to heat and cool down would be much worse with stainless steels.

44man
05-19-2010, 12:11 AM
The blocks are aircraft aluminum, only the plates are stainless. A friend found the stainless in a dumpster. Strange thing was he brought the steel just at the time I was looking for metal for sprue plates.
I could never make a cherry by hand to cut stainless! :bigsmyl2:

44man
05-19-2010, 12:13 AM
Lloyd, they are for Whitworth's guns. Factory loads are expensive.

44man
05-19-2010, 11:33 AM
The molds cast great. one is .506" and will need sized to .502"- .5025" and weighs 463 gr.
The other is .516" and will need sized to .513", weighs 560 gr.
Easy to lighten them by milling the top of the blocks but I will try them first.
Now to find load info.
I never had molds come out the same size as the cherry before, they are usually smaller and I have to re-cut them.
The more I do this the more confused I get.

Bass Ackward
05-19-2010, 01:49 PM
The molds cast great. one is .506" and will need sized to .502"- .5025" and weighs 463 gr.
The other is .516" and will need sized to .513", weighs 560 gr.
Easy to lighten them by milling the top of the blocks but I will try them first.
Now to find load info.
I never had molds come out the same size as the cherry before, they are usually smaller and I have to re-cut them.
The more I do this the more confused I get.



Holly smolley!!!

I don't know why you would think any less. With that much lead in terms of both heat and weight, you can probably get good fill out with darn near cold blocks. 5 fills in a row and you can go drink a cup of coffee and come back and watch the sprue harden. :grin:

Get enough lead in one area to mold one shooting sessions worth of slugs and the earth is going to change orbit.

44man
05-19-2010, 02:02 PM
Holly smolley!!!

I don't know why you would think any less. With that much lead in terms of both heat and weight, you can probably get good fill out with darn near cold blocks. 5 fills in a row and you can go drink a cup of coffee and come back and watch the sprue harden. :grin:

Get enough lead in one area to mold one shooting sessions worth of slugs and the earth is going to change orbit.
I know, I told Whitworth he needs to go steal weights at a trucking company! [smilie=w:
Now I need to figure out what to do to size them.

Edubya
05-19-2010, 02:17 PM
I know, I told Whitworth he needs to go steal weights at a trucking company! [smilie=w:
Now I need to figure out what to do to size them.
Lay a couple .502 drill stocks on a steel plate to maintain the diameter and lay a boolit or two between them and another steel plate and roll the plate over the sandwich. Depending on the alloy, you may have to put extra weight on the upper plate. Just giitt'er done:)
EW

44man
05-19-2010, 03:58 PM
Lay a couple .502 drill stocks on a steel plate to maintain the diameter and lay a boolit or two between them and another steel plate and roll the plate over the sandwich. Depending on the alloy, you may have to put extra weight on the upper plate. Just giitt'er done:)
EW
Good idea, thanks.

Changeling
05-19-2010, 04:22 PM
Your ingenuity is absolutely amazing, you decide what you want and then just make it! However, I think you and Whitworth put a lot of thought into this before anything was ever started, you knew exactly what you are doing and where it was hopefully going.

Lloyd Smale
05-19-2010, 09:08 PM
tell him not to be afraid to try 511. My two linebaugh built guns and 3 out of 4 of my buddys prefer bullets sized to 511. I think john and dustin use some tight tollarances.
The molds cast great. one is .506" and will need sized to .502"- .5025" and weighs 463 gr.
The other is .516" and will need sized to .513", weighs 560 gr.
Easy to lighten them by milling the top of the blocks but I will try them first.
Now to find load info.
I never had molds come out the same size as the cherry before, they are usually smaller and I have to re-cut them.
The more I do this the more confused I get.

44man
05-20-2010, 11:45 AM
OK, I am trying to fix one mold to make it smaller. If I fail I will cut a new cherry and start again. I just can't believe the cherry, blocks and boolits are all the exact same size. There was zero shrinkage anywhere.

Bass Ackward
05-20-2010, 03:38 PM
OK, I am trying to fix one mold to make it smaller. If I fail I will cut a new cherry and start again. I just can't believe the cherry, blocks and boolits are all the exact same size. There was zero shrinkage anywhere.


That's probably due to the expansion characteristics of aluminum when accounting for that many calories of heat. You gotta realize how much lead you are dealing with here. Sorta alters the equasion somewhat.

If the cherry is too big, lend it to Lyman. After 4 or 500,000 molds, it'll wear down. I've bought enough of'em.

44man
05-20-2010, 04:36 PM
That's probably due to the expansion characteristics of aluminum when accounting for that many calories of heat. You gotta realize how much lead you are dealing with here. Sorta alters the equasion somewhat.

If the cherry is too big, lend it to Lyman. After 4 or 500,000 molds, it'll wear down. I've bought enough of'em.
:bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:

Whitworth
05-21-2010, 10:08 AM
The testing will begin next week. We will keep y'all posted!

Changeling
05-21-2010, 02:07 PM
That's probably due to the expansion characteristics of aluminum when accounting for that many calories of heat. You gotta realize how much lead you are dealing with here. Sorta alters the equasion somewhat.

If the cherry is too big, lend it to Lyman. After 4 or 500,000 molds, it'll wear down. I've bought enough of'em.

I really don't think Lyman will need it, just about all theres are "undersized", think it's there new manufacturing process,see eventually they will be 454 then 429, big cost savings for them;)

44man
05-21-2010, 02:41 PM
I really don't think Lyman will need it, just about all theres are "undersized", think it's there new manufacturing process,see eventually they will be 454 then 429, big cost savings for them;)
Most companies resharpen cherries and they get smaller. Consider if you want to but one ready made it will cost you $275 while an end mill is pennies in comparison.

Changeling
05-31-2010, 04:33 PM
Was wondering what happened, really interested?

44man
06-03-2010, 11:53 PM
Was wondering what happened, really interested?
Both molds came out the exact size of the cherries as did the boolits. Too large. I have cut two more cherries just .001" over and have one set of blocks almost ready to test cast.
You don't know how crazy it is to guess the right sizes. As boolit diameter changes, so does the cherry allowances change. I will never get it right.
Some cherries shrink when hardened and some don't. It is enough to drive a guy nuts but it is still too much fun when a boolit works.
When you feel like a straight jacket is about right for you, make your own molds! :bigsmyl2:

RobS
06-04-2010, 12:34 AM
That's probably due to the expansion characteristics of aluminum when accounting for that many calories of heat. You gotta realize how much lead you are dealing with here. Sorta alters the equasion somewhat.

If the cherry is too big, lend it to Lyman. After 4 or 500,000 molds, it'll wear down. I've bought enough of'em.

I had to laugh at this comment :bigsmyl2:

RobS
06-04-2010, 12:36 AM
44man:

Good looking work so far. Looking forward to hearing how they fly.

44man
06-04-2010, 06:33 PM
I cut two new cherries and blocks. Need to make one sprue plate and drill all the holes in the blocks yet.
Cherries worked good and cut so easy I had to use the shop vac to suck chips. It took no pressure at all to cut. A finger on the handle rod was enough.
I have no idea what I have yet. Be a few days.

Whitworth
06-07-2010, 01:44 PM
Your ingenuity is absolutely amazing, you decide what you want and then just make it! However, I think you and Whitworth put a lot of thought into this before anything was ever started, you knew exactly what you are doing and where it was hopefully going.

You give us way too much credit! :mrgreen:

BABore
06-07-2010, 02:34 PM
Better to cheat than repeat.

I cut the cherry oversized to what I estimate the shrinkage will be. No hard fast rule here as some think. Boolit length and groove/band complexity change things. Once the cherry is heat treated and drawn back, it typically grows 0.001 to 0.005 in diameter with the material I use. I grind it to the estimated oversize and then cut a 1C test mold (which usually becomes a HP in my private stash). Based on the casting results, the cherry may be ground smaller if needed, rehoned, and tested again.

44man
06-07-2010, 03:32 PM
Better to cheat than repeat.

I cut the cherry oversized to what I estimate the shrinkage will be. No hard fast rule here as some think. Boolit length and groove/band complexity change things. Once the cherry is heat treated and drawn back, it typically grows 0.001 to 0.005 in diameter with the material I use. I grind it to the estimated oversize and then cut a 1C test mold (which usually becomes a HP in my private stash). Based on the casting results, the cherry may be ground smaller if needed, rehoned, and tested again.
I am stuck though and can't grind them. I need more tools but I have to depend on files and eyeballs. I wore out all my metal blades for the Sawsall cutting plates too.
With luck and time I will cast a few boolits tonight to see what happened.
Let you know later. [smilie=s:
Too many problems, the upstairs computer hard drive crashed and the fridge got warm. Had to haul everything to the basement fridge while I fooled with it. 3 year old GE, out of warranty. Froze up on me once before but I could not see any ice this time and the freezer was working OK. Looks like more money to spend I don't have. :veryconfu

BABore
06-08-2010, 08:19 AM
Use an in-line air tool with a fine stone. Make up a mount to hold the air motor and attach it to your lathe's tool post. This one fits into a stock 1/2" tool bit holder for the QC tool post.

44man
06-08-2010, 09:49 AM
Use an in-line air tool with a fine stone. Make up a mount to hold the air motor and attach it to your lathe's tool post. This one fits into a stock 1/2" tool bit holder for the QC tool post.
Looks good for a future project.
I had to pull the freezer apart last night. The condenser was a solid ice mass. Either the defrost failed or I am running out of coolant. I spent hours with a little heat gun melting it but it is up and running until I can buy a new one.
I woke up last week with my middle finger on my right hand swollen double and hurting like crazy. I didn't do anything and have not been shooting. Might be a spider bite. It is slowly getting better but I am kind of out of commission.
Might be from pulling the cord on my tillers trying to start them. Had to replace the recoil starter on one and rebuild the carbs and replace points. Then I used the chain saw in the yard.
Had to cut the grass, two acres with about 90 trees, etc to go around. Hand got sore on the steering and I have a hay field now that the dogs pick up and bring in the house. Carol bitches all day sweeping the kitchen. [smilie=p:
I might have to learn to shoot left handed. :veryconfu
Don't get old unless you have a lot of booze! :bigsmyl2:
How did I get all of this work done when I had to work every day?

BABore
06-08-2010, 09:58 AM
Geeze! Figgered an ole man like you would be more careful where he sticks his nasty finger. :p :bigsmyl2:

44man
06-08-2010, 01:28 PM
Geeze! Figgered an ole man like you would be more careful where he sticks his nasty finger. :p :bigsmyl2:
Where would that be? I plumb forget! :bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:

Dark Helmet
06-08-2010, 10:39 PM
Put the hose on your vacuum on the exhaust side,let the door close against the hose and let her blow

44man
06-09-2010, 08:25 AM
Put the hose on your vacuum on the exhaust side,let the door close against the hose and let her blow
I use the heat gun for model airplane covering. It only gets to 400* so there is no danger to the plastic, even the foam is not hurt.
There is no ice harder it seems, as what forms in there.
The vacuum would need to run for days! :wink:
Must have been 50# in there.