Swag-o-matic core swaging

[Danth]

Hello All: I've been envolved with an exercise making 30cal bullets from 5.7X28 cases. Overall, the results have been good, but I'm having trouble with consistency of the point. My dies are made by Hollywood. The point forming is done at the same time you swage the bullet. There is a bleeder at the point, so I figured the weight of the core wasn't critical. Sometimes the lead doesn't reach the point, and other times there is too much lead. I'm using a four cavity Corbin type core mold and find weight consistency is not very good. I thought I'd try swaging the core to eliminate the problem and planned to use a Swag-o-matic press for this purpose. I can't get it to work. If anyone is doing this, how did you do it? Thanks, Danth

[ANeat]

So how are you swaging the cores?

Youre basic core swage die just makes a cylinder with square ends. The die has a bleed hole or holes. The weight is determined by how far the punch is pressed in.

I assume there is a core swage die in your set??

Are you sure there is a bleed hole at the nose of the point form die or is it for the ejector?

[Danth]

The swag-o-matic bleeds from the side of the bullet. I was hoping to swage a core in the swag-o-matic setup. I made a die and punch of the proper dimensions, but I can't make it work satisfactorily. Yes, Hollywood's setup has the bleed hole in the nose of the bullet.

[ANeat]

So what is wrong with the cores out of the swag-o-matic?

[DukeInFlorida]

In order for the Swag-O-Matic to bleed the lead for the cores, you have to:

1) Align the bleed holes on the knurled nut with the holes in the side of the die
2) You have to use PURE LEAD for the cores, if you use WW lead, it's too hard, and will not bleed through the holes
3) You have to start off with bleed holes that are open, meaning NOT PLUGGED UP
4) Use a "half jacket" which allows the lead to come up past the jacket, and bleed out the side holes.

So, if you're not doing all of those things, it isn't going to work properly.

[Sarg]

One other thing that I have found using 5.7x28 brass for cases is that case length can vary. This results in some problems as far as how well the tip is closed up. I am going to put together a set of dies that will trim all the cases to the same length .... that way I don't have to worry about it making some hollow points with small holes in the tip and others with large holes.

[Danth]

Sure appreciate the feedback. I've done some more work on this project and have found my pushrod design for the swag-o-matic was faulty. I re-designed and it is working out very well. The variation of core weights is very acceptable. Yes, the 5.7X28 case length does indeed vary. I've been trimming to length by parting off in a lathe. I am now using a collet stop against the inner surface of the case head, parting off the head. Then I use the collet stop against the parted off surface and trim to length. Can't think of a better way to make all cases uniform in length. We'll see how it works out tonight.......... Danth

[scrapcan]

Danth,

It sounds like you are getting it sorted. You do not have to make cylindrical cores only, you can use regular swaged bullets for cores if they fit your jackets and are of proper hardness for core seating.

One issue you may have if you have too hard of a core is that you might have voids at the base. Your jacket is not flat at the bottom and core may not be filling out to fit the case.

Try going both ways with the size of your core. Go to a tighter fit to see if you get better fill out and try using one that is smaller and see if you can get better fill out. Remember that your jacket is a tapered case at the head and may need to have the core fit flush to the bottom to get proper core seat.

[Danth]

Hello: I am using soft lead (lead pipe, flashing, etc) for my cores. With the Hollywood setup, I cannot seat the core too aggressively as it will expand the diameter of the bullet and will not fit into the swaging die. I've been seating the core as much as possible without creating that problem. One thing I've noticed is the core does not fill in the primer flash hole, but I'm hoping that is ok. The core does seat firmly against the inner case head surface. I did swage some bullets last night and they look great. There are some minor jacket wrinkles at the very tip, but these cases weren't annealed. I know I can get rid of them by annealing. They are so minor, I'm thinking of using them as is. By the way, I weighted the cores last night and find they are within plus or minus 2 tenths. The vast majority are within one tenth. I'm thinking this is incredably good; much better than I thought was possible. Those which were heavy, I swaged again, and they were exactly on the money. Can't wait to give them a try. Best, Dan

[bohica2xo]

You really should anneal the 5.7 brass for jackets. It is the only good way I ever found to get rid of the polymer coating on the cases.

If you are core seating in a die, the core should not expand the case past the die diameter. Perhaps the core seat die is not the right one?

B.

[Danth]

Hollywood dies are unlike any others I'm aware of. Core seating is accomplished by running a punch into the case mouth, seating the core. The jacket sets in a cup and only holds the case upright to receive the punch. If the id of the cup were on size, there would be no way to retract the bullet from the cup, as the cup has no provision to eject the jacket. Not a great design.

[yarro]

I always trim my cases to a uniform length before I aneal them and use them as jackets. Otherwise, I get variable length jackets even if using cases from the same lot of ammo.

-yarro