Do any use gas check with paper jackets

[Fly]

Have you guys used gas checks along with paper jackets?:holysheep

[docone31]

No. The base of the wrap is the check.

[Fly]

docone31 I have been messing around today with different paper being my wife's gone
out of town & I can.No way I can roll like you.I have a little trouble with tearing the line
paper some.

So I started looking around the house.I found a old dictionary & that paper works really
good,even when wet.You most likely have used it before, but if not I thought I would
pass it on if by chance you didnt.
Fly

[cheese1566]

Fly, are you using a cigarrette roller?

Roller make sit easy as pie after a few.

[Fly]

No I don't have one yet.But all I know is that dictionary paper is very strong.It reminds me
of the paper that bibles are made of.Now that I would NEVER use, but you know what I'm saying.
GOD BLESS Fly

[pdawg_shooter]

I have tried it. No improvement. Waste of money!

[303Guy]

I have tried it. No improvement.Just out of interest (you have told us before - I just can't remember what you said), it wasn't detrimental either, right?

[docone31]

MOA at 100 with no check.
The twist at the base compresses and fills the gap where the check would be. With sizeing, you do not have much there anyway.

[pdawg_shooter]

Just out of interest (you have told us before - I just can't remember what you said), it wasn't detrimental either, right?

Nope, didnt hurt a thing!

[docone31]

The thing to do with checks, is to drill out the center.
This way, the mold can be modified to allow the checks, tinned, to be placed into the lands and have the lead poured through into the mold.
Now you can have a three check casting that is a semi jacket.
Useless for paper.

[rhead]

The gas check is another variable that can be tried. In your gun it will either be better worse or no change. I usually try a few groups. I do not personally have any guns that shoot better with a check than without but after trying I know this instead of thinking it. This knowledge is of use only with my guns. I have heard of people who got substantially better results combineing a gas check and a paper patch. It is judt one more thing to try.

Statistically the change will probably be small and not worth the expense and time but there is only one way to tee.

[303Guy]

I do not personally have any guns that shoot better with a check than without but after trying I know this instead of thinking it.I like the way you think, rhead.:drinks:


The thing to do with checks, is to drill out the center.Hee hee. I actually did something like this on youre suggestion, docone31. It was a little difficult in my mold, being as it is, straight sided. It could well work in a GG mold. I would suggest some means of punching the holes in the gas checks. (I actually used brass eyelets). I did not range test these - I got involved with paper patching instead!:mrgreen:

[Zeek]

For most PPCBoo loads, the check is just a bother and an extra cost. However, there is one instance in which it comes in quite handy. If you are using a CBoo core that is about middling weight (e.g., 150 grains in 8mm Mauser) in a chambering like the Mauser that has such a loooong shallow-angle leade cone, the check is handy to extend the effective length of the rear of the boolit. You size the check on undersize (e.g., in 8mm, perhaps to 0.319) and then patch right over it. This gives you a nice full-diameter portion right at the rear of the PPCBoo, such that a shallow-seated boolit will have more for the caseneck to grip.
Find a good PPCBoo load with the GC attached, then make up some with that exact same load but without the GC. Except in the situation described above, my experience is that the GC makes no difference, but costs plenty. Another good PPCBoo feature is that they are not real touchy about being seated below the caseneck . . . . they seem to work fine that way.
Zeek

[Kragman71]

Hello
I use a wax wad at the base of my paper patched bullet for all of my 'serious 'shooting.
If you can get them,graphite wads are better
These wads are good for plain based regular cast bullets,that are seated a little below the neck,
Frank

[docone31]

I just twist the tail, and crush it in when I size it.
Haven't found a tail at the target yet.
I do trim them a little bit before sizeing, but I get a very compact paper base.

[jhalcott]

I tried GC's and no GC's on a .223 bullet when I Teflon taped them. There was a difference in accuracy . The GC's were about a half inch better than no GC. Velocity was able to exceed 2400 fps also WITH. This difference was NOT evident in the .30-30 or .35 calibers. Funny I did NOT try the Gc's on the 45-70 Tefloned boolits!

[303Guy]

Kragman71, can you tell me more about the wax wad? It just seems to be a good idea to me and besides, I have a non removeable suppressor on one or two of my guns and I need the wax coating inside them to prevent corrosion! I already do this for j-words. I dip the boolit tail into molten waxylube to form the wad. Accuracy is good and I get zero copper fouling.

[Kragman71]

30guy
In general,for me;no paper patched bullet,without wad,performs better then one with a wad.
Some paper patched bullets,with a wax or graphite wad,will perform better,then one without.
I think that the wax wads are still available,they come in 3" X 6' sheets.
To install,just place the case mouth against it,and push.The case will cut a perfect wad.push this wad down the neck,a little,with a dowel,and seat the bullet over it
Graphite wads came in different thicknesses,and were in 3 1/2" X 1 1/4" sheets.
Give me your address;I can send you a sample of each
Kragman71