Lube stick molds - my version

[ghh3rd]

Here's my stab at making lube sticks. I figured I'd post it, since it's adapted from other posts, along with some of my own ideas.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq226/ghh3rd11/Lube%20sticks/IMG_3161.jpg[/IMG]

The PVC and fittings are all 1".

I used a 1" spade to drill perhaps 3/16 deep into the wood in order to help cradle the rounded bottom caps. As overkill, I even filled the holes under the caps with expoxy before screwing the caps down.

The tubes are 5" long. I used fine sandpaper on the ends of the tubes followed by 600 paper to help them slide in and out of the caps easily.

The 3/8" aluminum rods are cut 7" long. I rounded one end to rest in the bottom cap.

I drilled holes dead center in the top caps (7/16" so the rods can slip through the hole)

I used washers that fill the bottom cap, to aid in centering the rod. The hole in the washer is smaller than the 3/8" aluminum rod. The rounded end of the rod rests in the hole in the washer.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq226/ghh3rd11/Lube%20sticks/IMG_3162.jpg[/IMG]

The process is:

Drop a washer into each bottom cap.

Put a tube completly into each bottom cap so it touches the washer.

Put the rounded end of the aluminum rod into the washer hole and let the rod lay against the top end of the tube. The bottom of the rod is now centered.

Fill the tube with lube (about 1/2" from the top) and affix the top cap over the tube and rod. This will center the top of the rod.

After cooling off, remove the tubes and leave the aluminum rod in place.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq226/ghh3rd11/Lube%20sticks/IMG_3170.jpg[/IMG]

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq226/ghh3rd11/Lube%20sticks/IMG_3175.jpg[/IMG]

Take a 1" piece of dowell (mine was 16" long for ease of use) and push it against the "pour end" of the lube, since it isn't completely filled. This also squares off that end of the stick nicely. The aluminum rod will move to accomodate the dowell.

Since I put mine into the fridge for a while, I had to run a hair dryer on high over each one for 1 - 1.5 minutes. Push firmly and the lube stick will slide out.

To remove the aluminum rod without distorting the end of the lube stick, I put an oversized washer on the lube and pushed it with my fingers.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq226/ghh3rd11/Lube%20sticks/IMG_3177.jpg[/IMG]

The finished product - 4" lube sticks with 3/8" hole for Lyman, etc. lube sizers.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq226/ghh3rd11/Lube%20sticks/IMG_3180.jpg[/IMG]

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Nice job ghh3rd.

I picked up the parts for a mold awhile back, but haven't gotten to the assumbly point as yet.

One question, ------ you have a washer held in place by a screw in your lower end cap, but as I read your post, I think I understand that you put a second washer in the lower cap before installing the tube and filling the mold.

Is this correct?

If so, is this the washer you then use to push the lube stick off the aluminum rod and does it come out of the lower cap when you remove the tube w/lube inside?

Thanks.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Recluse]

:drinks:

That is slick and absolutely top shelf! And I'm going to shamelessly duplicate it.

GOOD job!

:coffee:

[ghh3rd]

you have a washer held in place by a screw in your lower end cap, but as I read your post, I think I understand that you put a second washer in the lower cap before installing the tube and filling the mold.

No, the washer that you see in the bottom cap is just resting there, unattached. It's the one I was referrring to.

This washer needs to be unattached so the hole is available for the tapered end of the rod to sit into so it centers. The pic is deceiving...


If so, is this the washer you then use to push the lube stick off the aluminum rod and does it come out of the lower cap when you remove the tube w/lube inside?


The washer I use to push the lube off the aluminum rod is one I found with a hole large enough for the rod to fit through. unlike all of the other washers. The first time I tried to slide the lube off the rod with my fingers I realized that I was going to "smush" the end of the lube, so I slid in a washer over the lube and it made it easy to slide the lube off without distorting it.

Funny thing - the washers at the bottom didn't stick to the lube for some reason. Even if they do, it would be easy to take them off.

[wistlepig1]

Nice job ghh3rd and your not nearly as messy as I was with my first batch.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I think those lube molds are great and show some real inventiveness . I had thought of making some type of mold but decided ,since I was melting the lube anyway why not just pour it into the reservoir of the sizer, and that is what I do. I have a hot air blower that I bought to remove paint . It gets much hotter than a hair dryer. The lube is in a one pound coffee can so I just point the blower inside the can and let the lube run out into the sizer and so far I haven't spilled any. I hold the can with a large pair of channellock pliers.

[cajun shooter]

I use a simalar method without the top and I make solid sticks for the Star. Before pouring my lube into the PVC I spray a store brand olive oil cooking spray into the tubes. When it comes time to push them out with the 1 inch dowel, it is very easy. Later David

[fredj338]

Great job! Now to adapt that for my Star w/ no hole.

[Thumbcocker]

How about a sticky on lube stick moulds?

[zardoz]

I finally sprang for an RCBS Lube-a-Matic after I purchased a Perdersoli Sharps 50-90. Reason being, I wanted the .512" sizing die. Before I had been pan lubing and tumble lubing everything. Had been using the Lee sizers before, but this was new territory.

Well, I got ONE stick of SPG, and that stuff is not very cheap. So, I found this thread, and quickly constructed a reasonable facsimile of the lube mold depicted. Not as nice looking as the original in the post, as mine was a rush job.

Mixed up some of the modified Emmerts formula. 5 parts beeswax, 4 parts zero sodium Crisco, 1/2 part jojoba oil, and 1/2 part lanolin.

Well, it works great! I could not find a 3/8" aluminum rod, so hacksawed a 3/8" steel rod. Wiping everything down inside and out with silicone spray wetted paper towels, the lube just slid out of the forms easily, and the rods pulled out easier still.

Now, I may have to make some sticks of my 9mm lube formula. This is pretty neat.



http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_71014e62faf92f0d5.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2027)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_71014e62fb1062b1b.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2028)

[ph4570]

Looks great. Much fancier than my setup. Good on ya.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Cool Bananas!

[Dutchie]

Like Candle making, it's easier to get those out of the moulds when they have spent some time in the freezer.

Hans.

BTW gonna copy those too.

[Whistler]

Neat setup, though a bit advanced for me. I just use old toilet paper rolls that I cut open, roll a bit thighter and secure with rubber bands. In the bottom I place stoppers from Vitamin tubes and then put a wooden dowel into it when I've poured the lube. Works great so far and the toilet paper rolls can be used many times.

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/562/20111118234308.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/2416/20111119012724.jpg

[Four Fingers of Death]

Darstardly Dan, who is a cowboy shooter and supplier of Big Lube moulds (huge grease grooved boolit moulds for black powder shooting) also supplies 'Pearl Lube' which is his version of lube. Point is, he uses coin papers rolled into a mould so that it holds the tube-a-loob together. Another take on it.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of just melting the lube straight into the lubesizer.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

GOOD thread!

I picked up the parts to make a mold system, probably a couple years back, before I got into casting for and hunting with 45/70 boolits.

Still have a can of lube that needs to be made into sticks!

But, now have a supply of LBT soft blue, and some White Label Lube "BAC", already in the sticks. So---------------------

However, the LBT seemed to give some fliers - need to do more tests with this boolit from Bruce's mold - haven't tested the BAC, and need to do some more testing of the sample of green lube Bruce sent me as well as one or two more.

Which means, if I get into making one of the lubes like Bruce's or the other sample I have, I WILL NEED TO FINISH THE LUBE MOLD PROJECT!!!! --------

----------AS I HATE!!!!! to stop and melt lube to fill up my sizer/luber! Just hate the process when compared to opening up and sticking in a already made stick of lube.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Dale53]

Crusty Dreary Ol'Coot;
I have been using Lars White Label Carnauba Red for several years with complete satisfaction.

However, I keep a dedicated separate Lyman lube/sizer filled with modified Emmert's lube for use with black powder (I shoot black powder in my Bisley Vaquero .45 Colt). I melt my lube in a coffee cup warmer (an inexpensive cup warmer for the office). I always have a cup full of lube sitting on the warmer when I start to lube (when I finish lube/sizing I immediately refill the luber). At any rate, by the time I am ready to re-fill my lube/sizer the cup warmer has slowly brought the lube up to melt temperature.

The beauty of the little cup warmer is that it never gets too hot for the lube. It just brings it up to temp (melted) and holds it there. You can leave it on all day without over heating the lube.

No waiting, no fuss. When the luber runs out, just "pop the top" and pour the lube in. You can do continuous work by just ensuring that both the luber and the lube cup are full at all times.

If you can find an old pyrex measuring cup or, even better, an aluminum measuring cup, either will work perfectly.

FWIW
Dale53

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Thanks for the info Dale,

One thing that for me slows down testing of lubes and is frankly a pain, is changing from one lube to another.

As per Bruce's BABore - recommendation, I had "Buckshot"make me some sizers for my 465/.462 mold from Bruce.

The push through - Lee style - sizer is slightly larger then the die for the luber sizer, so guess I could size my boolits in the push through die and then melt a stick of the different lubes and pour it around the boolits then use a cutter of some kind to get the lubed boolits out of the lube for testing.

Not sure if that would be better then melting lube out of the sizer for testing of another lube or not. ?????????

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Love Life]

Darstardly Dan, who is a cowboy shooter and supplier of Big Lube moulds (huge grease grooved boolit moulds for black powder shooting) also supplies 'Pearl Lube' which is his version of lube. Point is, he uses coin papers rolled into a mould so that it holds the tube-a-loob together. Another take on it.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of just melting the lube straight into the lubesizer.

What he said.

[luis7]

That´s mine´s

[41 mag fan]

Oughta make this a sticky, for easy reference.

[cajun shooter]

Our forum already has a lube recipe and making it as a sticky.

[41 mag fan]

Our forum already has a lube recipe and making it as a sticky.

Where did this thread become a making lube? This has to do with ways of making lube sticks not recipes.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

My thought exactly!

CDOC

[Recluse]

This would definitely be appropriate for a sticky, and for the following reasons:

1. A lot of casters use lubesizers that utilize hollow sticks. And I, for one, just can't warm up to the "melting lube and pouring it in my reservoir" method. I've tried it twice and made a huge mess. I make a big enough mess just MAKING the lube. . . :)

2. Making your own lube is kind of a natural progression in casting. Granted, a lot of us move on to buying from White Label (Glenn), but it's often an itch that needs scratching for a lot of folks who get into boolit-casting.

And when you have a lubesizer, you need sticks of lube.

3. Much like the lube-recipe thread, variations and improvements and new ideas could be added to this thread. As industrious and talented as our membership is, there is no telling what kind of cool ways to make lubesticks might emerge here.

Just my dos pesos.

:coffee:

[41 mag fan]

Well said Recluse

[Bad Water Bill]

ALL IN FAVOR OF A STICKY post now.:castmine:

[Four Fingers of Death]

Sounds good to me, maybe a supplementary page with skills threads.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Yep need a sticky! :bigsmyl2: :cbpour:

Keep em coming!

CDOC

[fishnbob]

I have already copied his method of making lube stick molds and it works like a charm. I managed to find the caps flat rather than semi rounded so it was easier to affix 'em to de boad. But a sticky might bring out some improvements, who knows?

[41 mag fan]

I have already copied his method of making lube stick molds and it works like a charm. I managed to find the caps flat rather than semi rounded so it was easier to affix 'em to de boad. But a sticky might bring out some improvements, who knows?

You just posted the perfect example.
Where'd you find the flat caps at? Might be helpful to someone like me, who tries to stay out of hardware and lumberyard stores.

[lastborn]

Please make this a STICKY !!!

[GP100man]

+1 for making this a stiky !!

I`ve never seen flat end caps either ???

Making a stick mould is really the only thing keeping me from scratching the itch.

That`s my story & stikin to it .

[fishnbob]

You just posted the perfect example.
Where'd you find the flat caps at? Might be helpful to someone like me, who tries to stay out of hardware and lumberyard stores.

I found 'em at the True Value Hardware store here in central Virginia. They made the project a real snap! I took a sander and sanded the pipe molds down on each end so they come apart easily.;-)

[41 mag fan]

I found 'em at the True Value Hardware store here in central Virginia. They made the project a real snap! I took a sander and sanded the pipe molds down on each end so they come apart easily.;-)

I'll have to look at the hardware store down the road from me, it's a True Value, and see if they have the flat caps.

That's a good idea sanding down the ends to make the pipe sticks come apart easier.

Thanks mods for making this a sticky.

[contender1]

I read this thread with a lot of interest as I was just starting to get the idea to mix my own lubes. Well, using the OP's info, off to the hardware store I went. I have started building my lube molds as per the OP's excellent pics & instructions.
HOWEVER, due to reading about flat caps etc, I decided I wanted to have the caps flat & not have to drill the wood base & epoxy the bases.
So,,, here's what I did;

I have a small belt/disc sander. Using the disc, and the guide to keep things square, I placed the caps I was going to use squarely up against the disc. I ground a "flat" on the top of the cap. It then sits nicely on the board. I ground them down just to where I could see a small spot in the centerwhen pressed with my finger. It made drilling the hole in the center for mounting easy. Just my method of mounting them and not drilling & epoxying the bases.

[41 mag fan]

For those like me, who haven't got much storage room for a jig....I got an idea.
Instead of building a jig, where your caps are screwed into a board, make your jig rods long enough to fit into something like a small piece of 4x4 or even on a section of bench itself, where they will stand upright.

The holes will have to be drilled exact and kind of tight to hold the jigs upright. This way, when they've solidified enough, pull the pvc jigs out of the holes holding them upright, and pop them in the fridge/freezer, or let them fully harden where they are.

But someone like me, who loves the overkill, I can almost make this an assembly line process.
Plus when I'm done I don't have a jig on a board to put up. I can put these in a small box and store much easier.

[fcvan]

I finally made my own lube a few weeks ago and have considered making lube molds from this thread. So far i have had to pour hot lube 3 times to refill my 450. Pouring hot lube hasnt been a problem but dropping in a new stick would be faster. I will say this, I wont be buying lube when I can make my own and I like mine better than everything I 've used in 35 years of handloading. Frank

[Lefty SRH]

I copied the design from post #1 and it worked like a charm. Thanks, that makes my life a little easier.

[Rockchucker]

I copied the plans somewhat in that I need solid sticks for my Star that's in transit to me. I have about 24 hollow sticks that I going to melt down into solid ones as soon as I find some flat caps also, got the 1" PVC cup up and will be sanding them soon. Thanks for the idea, it's great.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Rockchucker,

Won't your Star allow you to use the hollow sticks just like they are?

CDOC

[Rockchucker]

Really don't know the answer to that, I read somewhere here at Cast Boolits that the hollow sticks causes air to be introduced and improper lube fill out was present on their boolits. Since the Star takes solid lube I thought I'd try the pvc mold and melt them down.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Got ya! Seems like that could be a possibility.

CDOC

[rbertalotto]

The nice thing about pouring melted lube into your lubrisizer is when you are finished sizing for the day, heat up some lube and pour it in. It will harden and have a full resevour for the next sesssion. With full sticks you can do the same, but you need to cut sticksv to fill as needed.

But I went ahead and built a PVC tube mold. 8 tubes. But I didn't lubricate the inside of the molds and had a bugger of a time getting the lube stick out. Next time I'm spraying the inside of the PVC with PAM cooking spray.

[Dale53]

rbertaloto;
When using bulk lube or home made lube, I melt and pour into my sizer. If you are having problems removing the lube from PVC tube molds, just use a hair dryer or heat gun - a judicious application of heat will release the lube (slick as, well, grease:mrgreen:)

Dale53

[6bg6ga]

I have used some sticks with the rod hole in the center in my Magma without any problems what so ever. I use a 50/50 mixture and it compresses fine inside the cylinder of the Magma.

[Balduran]

Thought i would chime in.
I modified a caulking gun with some 1 1/4 pvc adapters and can now push out my sticks so easy i dont need to heat or prelube the moulds to push outmy sticks.
I removed the push plate from the gun and attached a 1" dowl for pushing the stick.

[aa1911]

awesome sticky, and thanks to the OP and others who posted pics of their PVC molds. I will be copying as well! and I like the caulking gun idea too, to help push out the lube.

I'm almost thru my recent batch of Lyman lube, going to home brew from now on. Off to Home depot for some end caps and will have to add some cooking spray to my reloading bench.

[mo_bio]

Thanks to the Op for this post and idea. I made 4 of these molds and poured some DARR into it. Works like a charm

[pilgrim98908]

I'm new to the forum and to making lube (Ben's Red, in this case) and the PVC idea occurred to me, so I built these.

No surprise to see its been done. That rod is 1/4" all-thread which the lube may not want to let go of when I try to push it out of the tube. I figure that at worst I can screw it out. The idea of aluminum tubing never occurred to me; looks good.

I thought of pouring straight into the 450 but that gives no pre-molded lube storage and it takes a while to liquefy a batch of Reds to pour.

81585 81586

Precisely following Red's formula and instructions, I got what seems to be a good batch of 16 oz.
81587 81588

Which I melted down (2.5 hrs in a double boiler not quite boiling - the stuff is tough!)
81589

And then poured into the molds. (The hot plate is off - it's just there.)
81590

It took three of those 1"-wide strips to fill two 4 1/2" molds. I'll melt more next time.

They are in the refrigerator now; I'll remove them in the morning and see how the come out of the mold.



Pilgrim

[6bg6ga]

When I made lube with a hole down the center I used a large nail instead of the 1/4" rod you used. The smooth surface of the nail makes pushing the lube from the PVC a lot easier. I believe there was a UTube video on it 4 or 5 years ago. You might try molding without the 1/4" rod all together an let the contents of the mold solidify and then simply drill it with a 12" jobber drill. I found that worked better than playing with a nail down the center or a
1/4" rod. Those that have a Star/Magma or Ballisti-Cast Model VI will use the lube without the hole. I have found however the lube I made years ago for the Lyman with the hole in it still works fine and will compress well with the heat needed to get it to the temp needed to flow correctly. I using a batch of lube right now that I recently found that has a hole down the center and it works fine .. no air pockets like some claim.

One last thing.... I went to using a long 2' piece of PVC instead of playing with the little lengths. Its going to take a while to harden either way. When hardened it pushes out ok and I simply push the whole length out and cut into pieces and store in a plastic container.

[pilgrim98908]

Taken straight from the refrigerator to the workbench, the lube sticks slid right out of the pipe without effort.

As expected, the 1/4-20 all-thread did not want to pull out but my battery-powered drill unscrewed them right handily. However, I think I'll make the next batch using a 1/4" nylon rod with a pointed end, instead.

The "knobs" on the sticks, an artifact of the PVC end cap, were sliced off and fed piecemeal into the 450 chamber atop the lube stick. It's not a problem having the knobs but I think I'll switch to using a plug instead of the caps. A small hole in the plug will serve to center the rod, which I will slip in before the stuff set up.

The stuff flowed quite easily through the machine and fills the lube grooves nicely, but it is kinda soft (but not at all gooey) and pretty darn slippery, too much so to be easy to handle once in the bullets. I think I'll recast the batch with a little less STP and a tad more beeswax.

My thanks to those who have had good ideas before me that contribute to what will become my set-up.

81751. .81752

[magnetik]

I basically built the same type as others.. with PVC. I got tired of dealing with the lid (to center the nail). Ended up drilling tiny holes in the edge and use paper clips. Now I can just look and make sure they are all centered (ocd) and pour right in. Since I use carnuba red and never had luck guessing the temps, I just let them cool completely then pull them out of the stands, put the nail end in a vice, twist to break bond with nail, hit the pvc with the heat gun, and slowly pull. I don't even bother with pam or oil. Just heat it up a bit will do the same.

parts used

piece of poplar for the base
1" I.D. pvc tube
tube one size up to fit 1" I.D. tube (for the stands)
paperclips
8" x 3/8" diameter nails (could have used shorter nails)
1" washers (that fits in 1" I.D. tube and over the nail)

http://www.thunderpimp.com/pics/firearms/PB180014.jpg

[6bg6ga]

I went the same route as you when I had the other sizer that needed the lube stick with the hole down the center with the exception that I used large nails for my holes. After trying the nails it was too much trouble and I lost the nails and simply drilled a hole thru the center of the lube stick.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Magnetik,

Your idea of the wires holding the rod is just soooooo much better then the cap with the hole through it. Thanks!!!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[magnetik]

It sure does make it easier to pour in big batches not dealing with lids anymore. for what it's worth.. I have switched from paper clips to solid copper wire. It seems to hold everything in place a lot better.


Magnetik,

Your idea of the wires holding the rod is just soooooo much better then the cap with the hole through it. Thanks!!!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Old School Big Bore]

I had just gathered up materials to make a bunch of PVC molds when I joined CB and found this thread. I had originally bought the domed caps, then found a store with the flat ones. Figured out I can use the domed ones on top since they're just there to center the dowel. Thinking about finishing the dowels with poly or some other hard finish to make it easier to pull out of the stick. My plan is to put the dowels through the bottom caps, a couple of inches into a hole drilled in a big stable hunk of lumber. I also plan on slipping rubber O-rings where the dowels go through the lower cap to prevent leaks. I will also be mounting the push-out dowel to the same lumber base, so I can just pull down on the tubes to eject the sticks. Thinking about a 3/8 hole down the push-out dowel too, or just leave it flat with a centering dimple to start the center dowels out at the same time...
Rockchucker - The air will compress. That's a lot of pressure to push a hard lube through the passage in a lubrisizer.
Balduran - Got any pix of your modified caulk pusher?

[pete501]

I started out using a 3' section pvc with a 3/8" dowel centered within end caps. I found it hard to get the lube out after it cooled. I tried pouring hot water outside the pipe to soften and release it. It did work but was difficult to remove. In the end I had a long section of lube which I cut to desired length.

The solution was to use a 3' Copper Pipe. Copper transfers heat well and will release the whole thing after pouring HOT water over several times. Instead of the dowel for the center hole, I found a 3/8" brass hollow tube at the hardware store. When everything is cooled, I use a Coleman funnel that fits inside the tube and use hot water and the brass tube slips out easily.

For melting the lube I use a canning jar inside a 2 gallon pot full of boiling water. A easy way to double boil everything. When the jar has been fully melted, I replace the flat canning lid with one that has a small section cut for accurate pouring into the copper tube. The tube is not mounted to anything so it is important that you secure the bottom cap and brass tube with electrical tape.. Also the whole mess of lube will shrink when it cools so I always top it off.

[KrakenFan69]

I created a version of the OP's mold system as well mounted in a piece of 2x4. Mixing up a batch of Lithi-Bee now and hope to test the molds tonight! Unfortunately I dont have a luberisizer yet...Planning to get one soon so my molded lube will have to sit and wait 'till then.

Big thanks to all who posted tips/ideas!

Kraken FFan #69

[gunarea]

Hey Folks
The method I use is a copy of what my mentor, Mr. George Forest, came up with some eighty years ago. Modern products have been employed to replace some of the parts, but the idea is identical. Mr. Forest made his tube moulds from steel pipe and originaly the stem void was done with arrow shafts, later he got steel rods. As a teenager I was tasked with stripping moulds and cleanup. After years of apprenticeship, everything except "brewing" fell into my skill repatriore. A batch of "Best Lube" generally produced around 160 sticks of the hollow core type. Making the solid sticks was even simpler but yeilded fewer sticks of course. This stickie is about lube forms, so I won't stray except to note "Best Lube" does not need lubricant on anything to release cleanly from any of the mould parts. My particular mould system is much smaller than that of Mr. Forest since I do not produce commercialy. You can easily modify this method to suit your needs. The two men in the pictures are students making lube using my mould system.
108953 108958Begin with a 1" X (whatever is applicable) pine board, width will add stability and is very easy to level. 108957 A hole saw will cut a groove to accept the pipe form and give a positively centered pilot hole for stick. Depth of cut is not critical but should be 3/8" to 1/2". 1" PVC pipe cut to lenght must have a bevel ground on one end to fit snugly into the hole saw groove. For a 3/8" dowel, drill a 5/16" hole through the hole saw pilot hole. A pencil sharpener will quickly taper one end of the dowel to fit snugly into the center hole. 108954 This batching/mould system has been used many times so I am quite sure of the validity of the information I am passing to you. 108956
Stripping of the forms is also very simple. After pouring all warm lube into moulds, allow ample time for cooling.108959 Gang moulds take longer for interior moulds to cool properly. A simple push stick and a little practice makes stripping quick and easy. Technique tip; holding the PVC form, put two fingers on the top with the dowel between them. First part of the push will free up the dowel. Then grip the PVC form fully and push the stick out.108955 Here is my neanderthal rendering of a push out. The PVC Tee became needed as my arthritis progresses. 108789 This is my offering to those who would appreciate it. I don't say it is THE way to do it, only that it is A way to do it. Couple tips of mine is wrap sticks in aluminum foil, get someone else to do it and never offer to sell it. 108790 My hope is this information will help someone.
Roy

[dsbock]

Completely independently I came up with a similar system.

I also used 5" lengths of 1" PVC. I put round caps on one end drilled for a bolt or something similar. To limit the lube fillout in the endcaps I used a large washer in one. In the other I filled the endcap with hot glue. For my mold stand I used a Forstner bit to drill a hole the diameter of the cap in a length of 2x4. Centered in hole that I drilled a smaller hole for the head of the nut that runs the length of the tube.
For plugs I used a hole saw to cut plugs out of pine and (while spinning the plugs in the drill press) used a rasp to taper them. I cut the bottom off an old funnel to fill the tubes.

Everything went fine, with only some spillage from over filling one of the tubes. No pictures right now because they're out in the garage and its 25* outside.

Then I wondered how to get the lube out of the PVC and though to look on the site. You guys were way ahead of me.

One dowel and a washer later I have my first batch of lube sticks. The next batch in in the garage setting up.

Thanks.

David

[SSGOldfart]

:drinks:

That is slick and absolutely top shelf! And I'm going to shamelessly duplicate it.

GOOD job!

:coffee:
Yep me too
Hmmm back to Lowe's again forth trip this week.

[Southerngunner]

:drinks:

That is slick and absolutely top shelf! And I'm going to shamelessly duplicate it

GOOD job!

:coffee:


I also bootlegged his idea and it works like a charm , I haven't bought lube sticks for 3 years

[Elkins45]

I used 1" electrical conduit instead of PVC. It's a little closer to the diameter of the sizer interior, and the metal tubes will stand up to the temps needed to pour the heavy soap lubes. My PVC tubes are all warped from being softened by an ATF/paraffin/Ivory experiment a few years ago.

It's also very easy to heat them with a torch to get them to release hardened sticks.

[Yodogsandman]

Old poly cutting board for a base. Old arrows for the thru hole.

[Southerngunner]

Old poly cutting board for a base. Old arrows for the thru hole.
Now you're gonna make me have to make one of these too[smilie=s:.

[dsbock]

I updated my lube stick molds today using a version of Gunarea's excellent design. Using a length of 1" PVC tubing I made four more 5" mold bodies. While I was at the hardware store for the PVC, I noticed they had 3/8" spikes in various lengths. So I picked up a half dozen spikes and 3/8" fender washers.

After doing some testing on scrap wood, I used my adjustable hole saw to cut grooves for the PVC and a 3/8" drill to widen the center hole in a length of 2x6.

Then it was time to melt my pot of lithi-bee and fill the tubes. Unfortunately, my plastic funnel didn't survive this batch. I was able to get the last tube filled with only minor spillage.

The only down side is that since it still gets over 80* during the day and even though the evenings feel cooler, its not really that cool. Getting the lube out of the molds and off the spikes was a little more challenging because the lube was still fairly soft.

Nevertheless, I endeavored to persevere and completed the extractions. I now have another 6, foil wrapped, tubes of lube, ready to go in my Ideal No. 45 Lubricator and Sizer as needed.

Thanks for the ideas.

David

[ghh3rd]

Amazing how ideas evolve, isn't it?

[RMII]

Great creativity.

For me I'll just buy stix as I need them from here, I can't justify the cost & time to make my own.

[byrd45900]

There are some great ideas here.But I just like pouring hot ,heating with a double boiler.

[ghh3rd]

I don’t know if I should get admit this but I remember the first time I filled up my Lyman with melted Felix lube. I didn’t have it set up right, and as I poured lube in, it poured out all over my floor. It only happened once :oops:.

[orangeeclipseman]

Thank you for the post looks pretty easy to make. Do u think it would be hard if u don't use rod. Don't need hole for mine

[gunarea]

Hey orangeeclipseman
The rod is not needed for making solid sticks. The 1/4" center hole, made by the pilot drill in the hole saw, should be either plugged or covered. The center holes in my form are enlarged to accommodate the 3/8" center rod so are larger than what you may have to deal with. For my solid stick making, small, slightly hand carved pop gun corks are used. They leave a dimple in one end after removed. As I recall, the first time the corks were used, they were a bit of a bugger to get freed up. Mr. Forest put a piece of masking tape across the bottom and pushing the pipe into the hole saw recess held the tape in place. Make sure to allow for complete cooling before stripping forms to avoid catastrophic mess. Please, let others know how you tackle the situation. Best of skill to you.
Roy

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Just like downtown. Pretty slick. What I do for my RCBS LAM II is carefully microwave the lube in a 600 ml pyrex beaker. Then I just pour it into the sizer leaving about 3/4" below the threads. Quick, easy and no sticky mess.