Anyone made/used Glen Fryxell's Lube.

[Changeling]

In looking at the different lube recipes there is one by Glen Fryxell that calls for a 50/50 mix of bees wax and Molly lube but there weren't any instructions for the mixing of the 2 ingredients.

Has anyone tried this lube and care to express how it worked for them relative to accuracy in revolvers ?

[Wally]

I use something similiar---50% church candles (they are made of 51% bees wax) and 50% lithium lube. I heat in a 12 ounce soup can--melting the candlewax with a propane torch--after it melts I add the grease stirring with a flat bladed screwdriver..I then pour into the chamberr of the lube sizer (Lyman 450). When melting & blending, I do this outdoors. Works just as well as any commercial lube that I've tried...

[Casting Timmy]

I use a white lithuim/beeswax mix and I think it's great. Don't hesitate to try it out.

[cbrick]

Haven't accuracy tested it in a revolver but I did in my 308 a few years ago while testing several home made lubes. Glen's lube came closest to the test standard lube (LBT Blue) for accuracy than any of them tested. It's what he used in his 40-50 Sharps Straight Contender last year when I went pig hunting with him, it's what he uses in all of his cast loads, rifle or handgun.

In a double boiler I melt the bees wax at very low heat, then increase the heat just a little (too much heat will ruin the bees wax), add the grease and stir until well blended. Either pour into the lubri-sizer or into tubes for storage.

Rick

[miestro_jerry]

I use a synthetic lube that I make, everything is based up modern chemistry except the beeswax. These types of lubes are low in fumes, ash and shoot well.

My recipe is not top secret, but I ask that people at least go thru all of the testing that I do to make such a lube before I tell them what is missing in theirs.

I do use a double boiler and many things that you can find at candles making suppy companies and you local auto parts stores.

Jerry

[Changeling]

Thanks to all for there input. There are several recipes I intend to try . Glen Fryxell's is one I really wanted to try basically because of the molly. However I have a feeling it is going to be a very messy lube.

[phishroy]

so if its no secret where is the starting point for ingredients.
I use a synthetic lube that I make, everything is based up modern chemistry except the beeswax. These types of lubes are low in fumes, ash and shoot well.

My recipe is not top secret, but I ask that people at least go thru all of the testing that I do to make such a lube before I tell them what is missing in theirs.

I do use a double boiler and many things that you can find at candles making suppy companies and you local auto parts stores.

Jerry

[buck1]

The old 50% bees wax 50% greese is a old tryed and true lube. I have used molly but prefer lithium. Also I have found that 1 part greese and 3 parts bees wax, lubes with the best of them and is not over sticky or soft and has nice flow properties, wile flowing through a lube sizer without heat.

[Changeling]

The old 50% bees wax 50% greese is a old tryed and true lube. I have used molly but prefer lithium. Also I have found that 1 part greese and 3 parts bees wax, lubes with the best of them and is not over sticky or soft and has nice flow properties, wile flowing through a lube sizer without heat.

Buck why do you prefer Lithium over Moly grease? Are you shooting in Revolvers or rifles?
Thanks for the reply BTW.

[buck1]

I shoot it in both rifles (.308 @2500fps)and pistols(44 mag,454 casull,45lc,480 ruger). The accuracy is a littler better. I dont think molly in this lube does much. At leat I could never get any advantage from it. But I would use it if It were all I had on hand.
The magic in this type of lube for me is the beeswax.
I have made lots of lubes and most work ok to a point. But when I pushed hard on a load, this one left them all behind! But still worked well on the light stuff too. Easy to make and better with a bit of steric acid and a bit of carnauba wax.
But asking about Boolit lube is like asking about shot size. Everyone has a magic recipe that they love more than any other. I sure didnt invent it , but in my testing it was the best , beating NRA 50/50,LBT,felix lube,and a host of homemade internet and homebrew recipes. Only the REAL LITHIBEE -no longer for sale- :( (not the goowey you read about for home brew) would stand shoulder to shoulder agenst it. ...Buck

[Fly]

Sta-Lube moly grease is Lithium with moly added.It's the only grease I use from wheel bearings
to machines.I just started mixing it with bee's wax but have not tryed it yet.

Fly

[Changeling]

I shoot it in both rifles (.308 @2500fps)and pistols(44 mag,454 casull,45lc,480 ruger). The accuracy is a littler better. I dont think molly in this lube does much. At leat I could never get any advantage from it. But I would use it if It were all I had on hand.
The magic in this type of lube for me is the beeswax.
I have made lots of lubes and most work ok to a point. But when I pushed hard on a load, this one left them all behind! But still worked well on the light stuff too. Easy to make and better with a bit of steric acid and a bit of carnauba wax.
But asking about Boolit lube is like asking about shot size. Everyone has a magic recipe that they love more than any other. I sure didnt invent it , but in my testing it was the best , beating NRA 50/50,LBT,felix lube,and a host of homemade internet and homebrew recipes. Only the REAL LITHIBEE -no longer for sale- :( (not the goowey you read about for home brew) would stand shoulder to shoulder agenst it. ...Buck

If you feel that strongly about it, I'll give it a try. Can you give me the exact recipe with the carnauba wax and everything as to amounts.
My shooting will be in a 44 Mag and a 4LC both Ruger, I don't have any plans (yet) for rifle.

I have been trying to convince a bee keeper I found to sell/contract with me for 20 lbs (thats a lot I know) but so far he is a little to unwilling to sell me that much for some reason. He doesn't have it all any way, I am trying to contract for some of the coming years supply. So far nothing, I just don't know why.

[Fly]

Some times bee keeper make candles & other out of it stuff.They can make a few more
buy doing that than selling it to you.

But what I do is buy it from some heath food stores.I't a little high but I don't use that much.

Fly

[cbrick]

Thanks to all for there input. There are several recipes I intend to try . Glen Fryxell's is one I really wanted to try basically because of the molly. However I have a feeling it is going to be a very messy lube.

I didn't find it to be "messy", it's not a hard lube but as one that doesn't like hard lubes that's a plus for me.

Rick

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

I bought 3 pounds of cleaned beeswax from a local beekeeper yesterday for $18 . . . he normally sells most of his to some place back east TN or KY who then makes foundation out of it, and that is what he gets for it, a little goes a long way!

[buck1]

If you feel that strongly about it, I'll give it a try. Can you give me the exact recipe with the carnauba wax and everything as to amounts.
My shooting will be in a 44 Mag and a 4LC both Ruger, I don't have any plans (yet) for rifle.

I have been trying to convince a bee keeper I found to sell/contract with me for 20 lbs (thats a lot I know) but so far he is a little to unwilling to sell me that much for some reason. He doesn't have it all any way, I am trying to contract for some of the coming years supply. So far nothing, I just don't know why.

by weaight, 3 parts bees wax, 1part lithium grease,pinches of carnuba wax ,steric acid (pulvirized Ivory soap works , but disolves slower).
I melt the bees wax and grease in a old crock pot . I stir with a wisk as it melts (the more the better). When its all melted and smooth I add 3 or 4 teaspoons of steric acid (per 4 pounds of lube to help stabilize the lube. Its opitional , I do it with the idea that it couldnt hurt. But I have made it with out this and it works fine.
Now I take a spoon full of the lube out and let cool to room temp. Is it sticky with light pressure or too soft? if so I add pinches of carnuba wax,(aprox 2 TBS per 4 lbs lube) not much and repete. All bees wax is not the same. So sometimes you need the carnuba and some times you dont, depending on your wax.
Be carefull of the temp of your lube bees wax can flash fife if too hot , so I keep my temps under 300 deg.
There is alwaws a powder / lube resadue found after firing and ammo. This lube has a slight antirust effect to it. A nice perk to the lube.
Stay with bees wax / and lithium grease( or even the molly) and you cant really get it wrong. If you have a little more grease or bees wax its still going to work fine. You can make it harder with carnuba or softer with more grease.
You can add too much carnuba and make your lube too hard or brittle, so add it slowly.
I have fired thousands upon thousands of rounds with this lube, in rifles and pistols.
It works very well hot or cold (most lubes fail at this) High pressure or low pressure.In my testing and shooting this lube walks the talk.
Its easy Give it a try, I did ,and have never looked back!....Buck

[Changeling]

Buck I wish everyone wrote as well as you in giving directions, it's like you know what I'm thinking, LOL

However there are a couple things I really don't know or understand.

For the steric acid I will be using the Ivory soap, best explanation I have read.

The carnauba is confusing to me. I don't know whether you are talking about "pure" carnauba or Johnsons floor wax witch I read had 14 % carnauba in it so I have no idea what to add. I do need to know this as you stated to control the hardness of the final blend? Is a pinch about a teaspoonful ? What form of carnauba do you use?

In researching bullet lube the actual bees wax was sometimes talked about as being "processed" for use or using "Raw" for use, I take it you are talking about using processed/cleaned beeswax because the only reference to the Raw was from 1 person and his lube (BullPlate).


Cbrick thanks for the info.

[Changeling]

Some times bee keeper make candles & other out of it stuff.They can make a few more
buy doing that than selling it to you.

But what I do is buy it from some heath food stores.I't a little high but I don't use that much.

Fly

Fly thanks for your input, there is never to much information! I take it the grease (STA-lube) you mentioned Lithium/moly is a "Brand" ?

Buying from a health food store in my area : In my area they are so high that is not feasible, at least for me. Ever seen a scrawny tomato going for $4.00 each because its organic? That means they didn't fertilize it with any synthetic fertilizer, just pooped on the plant.[smilie=f: Think about it!

[buck1]

Pure carnuba wax is what I use. I get if off ebay, but other places have it. The ratio would be close to a teaspoon of carnuba per pound of lube, but start with a 1/2 tea spoon. and add as needed or you may not need any if you are hard enugh to begin with. In a pinch as long as your not shooting in very cold weather you can substatute pharifin for carnuba.

The ivory soap will disolve slowly but it will disolve, you can turn the hot lube off for a wile and come back and reheat latter before it compleetly cools ( 30 min or so), this helps sometimes.

Raw bees wax (from a bee keeper) tends to be harder than processed bees wax and may not nees any carnuba.

[Changeling]

Thanks Buck, I won't forget you and will definitely get back to you when I try it, it will be a while since i am trying to bring "Everything" together from what you and 44Man have taught me , but I will get back to you.

Thanks very much for your indulgence and lack of knowledge on my part.

Changeling

[buck1]

For the 44m and 45 lc, you cant go wrong with this type of lube. Mix it up and get it to flow through the sizer and not stick when boolits are stacked side by side.
Thats it!
Even in the unlikely event you dont get it just right, ITS STILL GOING TO WORK ,AND WORK WELL. This type of lube is very forgiving and the ratios are not that critical. if its too hard add more grease, if its too soft add carnuba,beeswax , or pharifin (if its not below freezing).
Just dont get it so hot that it brust in to flames (make any lube outside). Its never happened to me but it has happened to some. Stay under 300 deg and you will be fine....Buck

[Changeling]

For the 44m and 45 lc, you cant go wrong with this type of lube. Mix it up and get it to flow through the sizer and not stick when boolits are stacked side by side.
Thats it!
Even in the unlikely event you dont get it just right, ITS STILL GOING TO WORK ,AND WORK WELL. This type of lube is very forgiving and the ratios are not that critical. if its too hard add more grease, if its too soft add carnuba,beeswax , or pharifin (if its not below freezing).
Just dont get it so hot that it brust in to flames (make any lube outside). Its never happened to me but it has happened to some. Stay under 300 deg and you will be fine....Buck

Buck, one question I did forget to ask is the consistency of this lube after the slow cooking, can you pour it in a pan/mold and put in the freezer to solidify and then cut into strips like "Ben" does with his lube and store in the freezer to use/reheat as needed? Then just pour it into the resizer ?

[leadman]

I think I'll try Buck1s' lube but use the synthetic Castrol grease made to Ford specs. Here in Arizona it one of the few greases that won't seperate and run in the summer. We had grease run out of the front bearing caps in the sumer when I worked at the City of Phx. Lost a couple front spindles also.

From reading the posts it seems the 3 parts beeswax to 1 part grease is by weight so that is what I will try.
I'll try some without the Ivory soap first. I assume I can remelt and add it if I don't like the results the first time?

Thanks for posting your formula.

[Changeling]

I think I'll try Buck1s' lube but use the synthetic Castrol grease made to Ford specs. Here in Arizona it one of the few greases that won't seperate and run in the summer. We had grease run out of the front bearing caps in the sumer when I worked at the City of Phx. Lost a couple front spindles also.

From reading the posts it seems the 3 parts beeswax to 1 part grease is by weight so that is what I will try.
I'll try some without the Ivory soap first. I assume I can remelt and add it if I don't like the results the first time?

Thanks for posting your formula.

Leadman. I and a lot of others I'm sure would be interested in how it works out for you, please let me know.

[shooter75126]

I used Glenn's recipe exclusively for a long time and never had any accuracy or leading issues with it. It was a little soft and too messy for my liking, so I started cutting back on the grease and using more beeswax. I also now add carnauba flakes to help it harden a little also. Even with the extra beeswax and carnauba it still does not need a heater to flow in the lubrisizer. At least not in the spring and summer. I haven't tried it in the winter yet.

[buck1]

Buck, one question I did forget to ask is the consistency of this lube after the slow cooking, can you pour it in a pan/mold and put in the freezer to solidify and then cut into strips like "Ben" does with his lube and store in the freezer to use/reheat as needed? Then just pour it into the resizer ?

I never tryed that method, I just melt and pour. But I bet a thin wire would cut it easy enugh. Its a softer lube but not too soft.

I use lithium greese but once I used slick 50 greese in its place. The only difference was that it was red not black or tan. The greese does not seem to that critical. My dad made a lube somewhat like this in the 60s-70s that worked fine. He used waterpump greese (chassie greese?) it worked fine.
This is the most forgiving lube you can make and its going to work even if you change the %s arround a bit. You could even guestamate the ammounts and still be ok. if its too hard add more greese , too soft add wax. its that easy....Buck