Straight Linotype?

[shooter75126]

I have a good source of pure linotype from a print shop that doesn't use it anymore. I have been using pure linotype as of late. I know the bullets are super hard, but it's what I've got right now. I don't have a source for WW's right now.

Is linotype ok to shoot in handguns? What are the problems with shooting a hard alloy like this in handguns? I've only used straight WW's before, and have had good luck with them. I'm new to the linotype thing, so I think I need some help figuring it out.

I'm shooting it out of a .44 mag, .357, .45 Colt in handguns, all going between 1000 and 1400 fps and 8mm Mauser, 30-30 out of rifles. I'm using Lyman Super Molly lube, and just made a batch of lube with beeswax, lithium grease, molly grease, and carnauba wax.

I'm not having any leading issues or other problems right now, but would like to know what to look out for if anything.

[sqlbullet]

Two problems can arise.

If bullets are too hard and not sized properly, they won't obturate to fill the bore and you may get gas cutting and leading. You indicate that for your present loads, no leading, so you are good there.

The second issue is terminal ballistics. High antimony bullets can be brittle, and break up on impact rather than expand. This is really only an issue in bullets meant for hunting.

Beyond that, it is just hard on the sensibilities of those that are looking for a way to make pure lead alloys a little harder. Historically, pure lead has been more abundant, meaning many use alloys like linotype very sparingly to 'sweeten' a pot of lead a bit.

Depending on where you are geographically, I bet you could trade linotype with people for soft lead.

[Cherokee]

See if you can get some pure lead from the scrap yard or such, cut the linotype at least 50/50 which is still a hard alloy (about what most commercial folks use) or 2 lead to one lino for general use like ww's. Lots of folks would love to have linotype for "sweetening", trading some is a good suggestion.

[fredj338]

I used to shoot a lot of lino bullets, at all vel. Sometimes I got leading, soemtimes not. That was early in my casting days & when I could get lino for 25c/# from the local printer. Now I shoot mostly ww or 50/50 ww/lead mix (range scrap the same). I would trade it 2-1 for some pure lead & cut it 3-1 for a good shooting alloy that's a bit more economical.

[Bret4207]

Two problems can arise.

If bullets are too hard and not sized properly, they won't obturate to fill the bore and you may get gas cutting and leading. You indicate that for your present loads, no leading, so you are good there.

The second issue is terminal ballistics. High antimony bullets can be brittle, and break up on impact rather than expand. This is really only an issue in bullets meant for hunting.

Beyond that, it is just hard on the sensibilities of those that are looking for a way to make pure lead alloys a little harder. Historically, pure lead has been more abundant, meaning many use alloys like linotype very sparingly to 'sweeten' a pot of lead a bit.

Depending on where you are geographically, I bet you could trade linotype with people for soft lead.

I'm not being contrary, but if you fit the boolit to the throat then obturation is neither wanted or needed. Just another way of saying what SQL was saying, I think.

[theperfessor]

A while back I traded one-for-one with a member here named Alchemist who had lots of lino and I had lots of almost-pure-lead roof sheathing. We traded two flat rate boxes at about 50 lbs apiece. Even at $10/box for flat rate shipping it was a bargain, we both got what we wanted and needed and both ended up happy with the deal. A little lino and lots of pure lead will make a bunch of good pistol alloy.

[Swindler1]

Dont forget the pure linotype bullets are a little on the lite side. My 158gr mold throws pure linotype around 153gr.:castmine:

[cajun shooter]

I mixed my lino at one time with the 50/50 process. The BHN of the bullets came in at around 15or 16 BHN. I now use it at 2 to one for making my bullets for BP SASS shooting. I will bet that some one in your area will trade you the lead you need as they are looking for lino.

[DLCTEX]

Why someone "in your area"? With the price of gas it is probably cheaper to mail it than to drive across a city.

[HangFireW8]

Is linotype ok to shoot in handguns? What are the problems with shooting a hard alloy like this in handguns? I've only used straight WW's before, and have had good luck with them. I'm new to the linotype thing, so I think I need some help figuring it out.

If you get ahold of the 1960's era NRA reloading handbook, you'll see that the NRA tested accuracy in some 38 Specials and found linotype boolits were the most accurate, with the lower groove filled with 50/50 Alox 2138F/Beeswax lube. As a result, the 1980 edition (reprinted until yesterday) of the Lyman cast bullet handbook still has Linotype bullets for all their 38 special loads.

The vast majority of cast bullet shooters use soft lead for 38 special because that is all they need, and any accuracy difference takes a Ranson Rest to discover.



I'm shooting it out of a .44 mag, .357, .45 Colt in handguns, all going between 1000 and 1400 fps and 8mm Mauser, 30-30 out of rifles. I'm using Lyman Super Molly lube, and just made a batch of lube with beeswax, lithium grease, molly grease, and carnauba wax.

Besides the Antimony that makes it so hard, Linotype has a lot of tin in it, which makes it quite flexible and adaptable in application (assuming good fit of course).

If you want to try other alloys, you should find that you can trade some for a greater weight in WW or other more common lead alloys.

-HF