Stick-welding 304 stainless?

[Typecaster]

I know TIG is the way to go for welding thin stainless, but I don't have one. I do have a good AC/DC Miller arc set-up, though.

I want to weld up a cooking grate for a BBQ out of 304 stainless 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" angle. Obviously nothing critical, so need for X-ray inspection.

Any suggestions for electrodes?

Thanks,

Richard

[thenaaks]

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/consumableseries.aspx?browse=104|9743|&locale=1033

i'd probably use e308l-16 or e308-16

[redneckdan]

If you have a stick you have a TIG. Just need to get the torch, rig up a gas system and go. Scratch start since you don't have hifreq.

[Typecaster]

This is looking more involved than I thought. I have a pound of 3/32" e308l-16 (now well over $30/lb), so that part's easy. I picked up a 10' piece of 1/8" 304 angle from the scrap/damaged rack to practice on.

Now it looks like there's a potential contamination problem between tools used for carbon steel and stainless—bits of carbon steel can be embedded in the stainless and rust. I knew that stainless would rust if in contact with Fe, but obviously hadn't thought this one through. Do I need to have a separate grinder, sander and cutoff saw for stainless, or just blow them clean and use new abrasive wheels/belts? Then there's the issue of acid baths and passivating…sounds just like when I was a glassblower.

Dan, the backdoor TIG idea is interesting…especially since I have tanks (helium, nitrogen, CO2) and regulators already. I could easily rig up a (wasteful manual) gas system; just need the torch and flow rates. For the thicker stuff like I'm planing, wouldn't stick be OK?

Richard

[bearcove]

Use the 308 electrode. Don't worry about contamination,use a new grinding disk and a ss wheel. For tig the He will work, that's why its called heliarc by older welders. Argon is what we use now,cheaper. I weld at a nuclear facility and we are just starting the carbon/ SS segregation process. Don't think your grill will care. The heat from the fire will have more affect than anything. SS moves like crazy when heated

[500cadillac]

Your 3/32 rods will work nice on 1/8" material.

[RayinNH]

Your getting way too anal on this barbecue grate. Use the rod you have and have at it. It's going to rust a bit anyway, after all the T304 is almost 75% iron. As bearcove mentioned it does move a lot, big time warpage when welding If you want no rust use plastic, however I've heard it makes a lousy grate though :-P...Ray

[Mntngoat]

Stainless is easy to weld with a Tig 1/8" thick with a stick is going to wrap some on you. But it will still grill cow.

ML

[redneckdan]

For gas control use your standard regulator, 30CFM is a good setting and work from there if you are having issues. Between the regulator and the supply hose for the torch install a solinoid valve like what you would find in a propane or natural gas furnace control. Then use a heavy momentary switch or a on off switch to run the gas valve. For striking the arc us a piece of scrap. When learning you will stick the electrode numerous times and even when you get good the place where you strike the arc will get tungsten contamination. This setup is not water cooled so your duty cycle will be short and the material thickness capabilities are limited but it is just the ticket for doing thinner stuff where stick welding can be a pain.

[steg]

I've had good luck using 316-16 stainless, and the best part was I got them for free........steg

[JIMinPHX]

Back when I worked for a chemical company, I welded a LOT of stainless steel tanks, flanges, pipes, pump housings, etc. 304 will weld fine with mig, tig or stick. You can even gas weld it if you need to. If you are buying the sticks, get 304L or 308L or 316L. Any of them will work. The L just means that they are guaranteed low carbon. 3/32" is as big as you want to go for a stick on 1/8" material. The BonArc brand SS rods ran the best for me & Blue Max ran the worst. Any brand can be made to work though.

SS warps worse than just about any other material when you put the heat to it. Make sure that you put down a LOT of tacks before you start stitching.

Yes, you want to use separate grinding wheels for your stainless work. Those rust smears look really ugly, are unsanitary, & you need an acid bath to get rid of them.

SS mig wire is easy to find these days, but if you end up going that route, you need a non-standard gas to go with it & that is what can get expensive. Most places will try to sell you a very expensive tri-mix. Argon with 2% oxygen is cheaper & works just as well. .025" 308 high sil mig wire would be the easiest thing to run on that material. I probably ran between 10,000 & 20,000 welds with that stuff on 304 rod when welding up framework for demisters in chemical exhaust stacks. We only used 316 for the really mean environments. I probably only ran around 5,000 of those.

After having done all of that, I have only welded up 1 grate for a BBQ grill. I used 1/4" 304 round bar that I had laying around. It turned out to be a bit on the soft side & bent easily. I recently spoke with someone who told me that he had made a grate by welding a framework out of heavier bar stock & then welding SS mesh on top of it. It sounded like his BBQ grate worked out better than mine did.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Lots of good info here!

Thanks,

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Nose Dive]

Hay man...RayinNH is right...get a stick and get after et! We are BARBEQUEINNN here man and not making no SPACE SHUTTLE... You tie'in it in to some carbon steel...get a small 309 rod and get to burnin... Dem steaks and chekins ain't gonna mind not one bit!! Turn your heat down on da thin stuff..turn i UP ON DA thick...

Nose Dive...

[shotman]

did you read rays post? any steel rod that is soft will work 6013 is good 304 has alot of steel in it and will rust that is what guns are made from and they will rust.

[Greg5278]

I can't really tell yopu much about welding stainless, but can make some other e recommendations. First, Stainless will warp like crazy, almost all 300 series is Cold rolled. Add heat, and it will bend, warp, and possibly crack some of the welds when heat cycling. I am a Chef, and we usually use Cast Iron grill grates, I have used some Hot rolled welded steel ones too. At home I use Grating from industrial catwalks for my BBQ. They are easy to find and cut. You can replace it when needed. They will last a long time, as long as you don't let them get rained on. You might be able to check at a local scrap yard to see if they have any Stainless grating to sell.
Good Luck,
Greg

[Bob Krack]

As a retired (or retarded) weldor, to answer the question(s), the easiest solution since you have the rod is go ahead and use the e308l-16, use a new grinding wheel and or cutoff tool.

If you want to use a process other than stick, as you asked, many will jump in (as you can see above)!

Bob


.

[mikenbarb]

Any food grade stainless steel part is almost always welded with type 316 or 316L alloy.
I have been a AWS and N.Y.C. certified welder and AWS Certified Welding Inspector plus a Vo-Tech welding contest judge for 20+ years and its listed in almost every alloy spec for a food grade welding alloy. I am also currently studying metalurgy of base and filler alloys.
Any stainless welding alloy WILL work and also including a regular miild steel rod like E7018 but it will rust alot on the weld area.
The stainless weld will rust also because your altering the base alloy and giving it a higher carbon content when its affected by high heat like electric welding.
PS- Look into a High Frequncy box for your welder if your gonna do alot of thin material. They work good but its a limited application because its a set amperage. Most of the time you need remote amperage control like a foot pedal or finger wheel to adjust the weld voltage as your welding so you dont blow thru after the base metal soaks up some heat.
Its not a real critical application you have so most anything in the stainless rod line will work.
I would consider a 1/16" type 316L or any 3xxL alloy but keep the rod as thin as possibly and the heat low.

[yarro]

I had a backyard built in grill with no grates at a rental. My buddy made me one out of stainless square tube and rod. He drilled through both sides of tube for the rod on each end, but only one side for all the others. Inserted rods into all the holes tacked the two end ones, which were an 1/8inch longer or so than the others and then had a grate with only four welds and no warping.

-yarro