Getting started ?

[Pioneer2]

What would be a good economical setup for a hobbiest to get started swaging.I want to make 215gr .312 RN bullets for the .303 British.Is there something that runs on regular reloading presses 7/8x14? There's a company on E-Bay [Swag-all] not sure if that's suitable for my needs...............Thanx Harold

[buck1]

C&H special order 101 swaging die set, for about $220.00

[Pioneer2]

What available brass could be used for jackets for .312 bullets?I think .222/.223 could be used for .377 bullets in the 38-55 running 255gr or so...........Harold..... some guy was making .366/250gr bullets from 9mm brass

[clarks359]

Pioneer2.
If you do a search for threads from BT Sniper you will find info about making 308 jackets from 5.7x28 brass. I believe that the 5.7 brass is .313 to start with,if so you should be able to size it dow to .312 with no problems.
There are some really good posts in this Swaging section about using brass cases to make jackets. Reading these posts will give you alot of info, and everyone here is willing to answer questions. If you have any other questions don't be afraid to ask, somebody will jump in with help and advice. Good luck.

[Pioneer2]

Thanx but common sized and available brass is preferred.Since 911 we can't get squat for reloading supplies.Can't shop in the US for bullets,brass,primers +powder like I've been doing for 30 years?Powder is like $36 a lb.......................I am trying to obsorb as much as I can.I only have a RCBS rockchucher so I may need something bigger and stronger............Harold

[ANeat]

Pioneer I have a good thread on making your own press if you have access to any machining equipment

[bohica2xo]

Pioneer:

I made a lot of 173 grain bullets from the 5.7FN cases. When ammo was easy to get, the FN shooters hosed that stuff all over the range. Anymore it is not so easy to find on the ground.

For .312's you have a few choices:

Buy production jackets. I don't know if anybody is producing jackets at a wholesale level in canada. If you can't shop in the US, Bergers will be hard to find.

Form fired cases into jackets.
40S&W brass can be reduced to .350, re-annealed & reduced to .310 in a good "O" frame press. This would leave you with a long enough jacket to make a 200 grain bullet - depending on shape.

38 Special cases can be reworked into jackets as well. The rim is sheared off first. Then a die can be used to reduce the diameter. One pass is a grunt, I would recommend two dies. This will leave you with enough jacket to make 250+ grain bullets.

9mm brass can be reworked, by it makes a lighter bullet than you want.

There is also the option of making jackets from tubing. This is not cheap. Or fast.


How many bullets per year do you plan to make in that caliber?

B.

[Pioneer2]

Would 38 Special cases be thick enough jacket wise to not come apart on moose + bear in a .303 British .312 /215gr at 2300fps MAX? Also interested in 9.3 /.366 out of either 9mm or .223 brass again will the jackets hold up velocity 2700 fps MAX? Anyone done ballistic testing on these? I have access to 9mm range brass and the rest I'd have to buy ..........copper tubing has gone through the roof$$$$$$mostly for personal use but may sell some locally............Thanx Harold using .223 brass for 255gr FN .38-55 .377 dia can I use a .375 setup and bump them up to .377 or would this require a .377 sizer? Don't really need a .375 as I don't own one.

[buck1]

You may have to play with how much you anneal and canalures , But I bet you could make it work. I am not nocking your personal prefrances but the .303 seems a bit light for moose to me. But I have never shot one , so I dont know for sure....Buck

[Pioneer2]

A .303 is a .311 clone of the 30-40 Krag.Here in Canada thousands of moose die every fall with it.Anything a .308 win can take so can a .303 British.Karamojo Bell started out his ivory hunting with a pair of .303 sporters and the 215gr FMJ..............Harold

[buck1]

A good place to start would be C&H dies with BT stipers heavy duty upgrades. WW cores will expand more slowly and should give better penetration. BTs upgrades will allow the use of ww in your swaging. I think I would use a doubble canalure to futher help in controlled expanshion.
Jack Oconner once wrote that a .270 win with the correct controlled expanshion bullet would make a great moose rifle. So your point is well taken. Good luck!...Buck

[blaser.306]

A .303 is a .311 clone of the 30-40 Krag.Here in Canada thousands of moose die every fall with it.Anything a .308 win can take so can a .303 British.Karamojo Bell started out his ivory hunting with a pair of .303 sporters and the 215gr FMJ..............Harold

Kind of makes a person wish that they had stocked up on a supply of the old 215gr KKSP Imperials when they had the chance "EH"

[Pioneer2]

That's why I'm making my own............................... I routinely shoot moose with a .270 and 130gr Hornady handloads.Or my 6.5x55 and 160gr handloads Dead is dead..........Harold

[Sarg]

Honestly bullet placement and bullet construction are the most important factors when taking game. Using 5.7x28mm brass you can make a good 150g boolit that is constructed with a steel slug built into the base of the bullet. Use a 1/4" slug of .25 diameter tool steel and drop it into the base of the case. I then drop in a 1/2" core of .25 diameter hard casting lead and swage as normal. The harder lead delays expansion and the steel slug ensures an exit wound for rapid bleed out.

You can have the best built bullet and make a bad shot and just have a wounded animal for all your efforts. On the other hand ... a crappy built bullet and an excellent shot does not equal dinner on the table. Shoot a deer with a heart shot using a FMJ and you will be a long while tracking it.

I have always believed bullet placement is number one and bullet design is a close second, but without both you don't have a guaranteed kill. After shooting a wild boar last year I have become a serious believer in bonded cores or copper solids for serious killing. I shot this board with a 150g .308" at a 45 degree downward angle. I was shooting from the boars 6 o'clock position and coming down through the back into the heart. The bullet impacted the spine 2" below flesh and completely exploded. As a result, the fragmentation scalped a massive 6" area where the bullet hit. If the bullet wouldn't of broken the boars back it would of ran off wounded. Instead it was paralyzed on the back half and I was able to climp down off the cliff and put it down quickly.

Since then I have started shooting bonded lead cores and solid copper bullets. When I am working up handloads; I will practice with them shooting old bricks at 100 yards. I have recovered some of the bonded core bullets, and even after vaporizing a brick they have remained completely intact with a perfect mushroom. The same goes for the solid copper bullets. If I am shooting varmints or just plinking then it's not that big of a deal - but if I want it "Dead Right There" then bonded/solid is the way to go.

Sarg

[Pioneer2]

I have two of the early Barnes X bullets one showed classic petal expansion and the other never expanded and could be loaded and fired again! 130gr /.270 This is after almost penetrating a 6x7 mulie lengthways .Shot a bighorn ewe and a WT buck with them same year and no blood or sign of being hit, found both dead within 100 yards.Havn't used Barnes copper bullets since..........Pretty much use Hornady's and Partitions these days....................others luck may vary.........Harold ...lately it's been my .54 Renegade with a .530 ball ,they leak real good and fall down

[BT Sniper]

"What would be a good economical setup for a hobbiest to get started swaging."
Yep Ch dies are a great way to get started in this hobby.

"I want to make 215gr .312 RN bullets for the .303 British."
I do have a ch 308 die that is oversized for whatever reason and makes .312 bullets but it will max out at 180 grains.

"Is there something that runs on regular reloading presses 7/8x14? Ch dies yes and I'm sure others too.

There's a company on E-Bay [Swag-all] not sure if that's suitable for my needs...............Thanx Harold" I'll have to loke into swage all.

Sarge, I would be very interested to see some of your work with the 5.7x308. Sounds like you have made some pretty interesting bullets. I'll have to pay attention to your posts. Maybe I'll find some pics someday.

Good shooting guys.

BT

[flashhole]

I didn't find anything for swage all. Do you have a link you can share?

[Pioneer2]

http://cgi.ebay.com/311-303-Rifle-Bullet-Swaging-Die_W0QQitemZ350276729844QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item518e1ebbf4