I'm new to casting and need a lube recommendation

[Centaur 1]

Hey guys, love the site. I had mixed results yesterday with my first cast bullets. The success that I had was with a Lee 356-125-2R, I tumble lubed them and tried two different loads using bullseye and unique. I couldn't tell the difference between the two when I shot them from a 9mm AR-15. Both were as accurate as factory loads with less recoil and no barrel leading.

My problem child was with using a Lee C309-150-F in my Marlin 336ss in 30-30. I also tried tumble lubing which didn't seem to work well. I'm using range lead that is about 60% cast bullets and 40% jacketed bullets, and I don't know how hard the alloy is. My barrel slugs at exactly .308 and the mold is producing bullets that are .309. I also reamed the gas check step with a .3115 reamer and I left enough of the step to act as another lube groove, so my bullets have a driving band that's .311. I tried two different loads, one used 8.2 grains of unique and the other used 9 grains. Accuracy with this bullet was horrible, I'm talking 6" patterns at 25 feet. The barrel was packed with lead, but mostly just in the front end of the barrel with no leading for the first half. I'm assuming that this points toward a lube problem and I'm probably expecting to much from the Alox. Since I don't have any fancy equipment to lube bullets with and I can't afford to buy any, I was hoping to pan lube. With the setup that I'm using can someone make a recommendation for a pan lube. Also let me know if this sounds like a bad load.

Thanks for any and all advice.............Mike

[Ben]

Mike :

You may have more than one problem with your Marlin 336. Some of those guns do their best with bullets in the .310 - .311 size range.

Did you mention the method that you're using to get a " flare " on the end of the case mouth prior to seating your cast bullets ?

If your bullets are falling from the mold at .309, that could be a lot of your leading problem. It is ALL about bullet fit with respect to your particular barrel.

You might want to try another mold ( I realize you're new and probably on a budget ) that will cast at least .311.
You say you are interested in pan lubing.
Have you looked at this, This system will WORK :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=34058

[Centaur 1]

I used a countersink to put a small chamfer inside the case mouth, I'm not shaving any lead when I seat the bullets. I don't use the factory crimp die either and I'm carefull not to crimp the bullet when I seat it, I might be wrong but I don't think that the case mouth is scraping the bullet to a smaller diameter when I fire the round. I was hoping that having a .311 driving band would be enough. I'll just lap the mold until it drops .311 for the entire length of the bullet. Is there a home brewed lube that doesn't require buying any special ingredients. I have canning wax and a couple of bottles of Lee Alox, I also see that some formulas use vaseline and ATF. I really hate being stingy like this but I'm on disability and without a regular pay check I don't have very much money to fund my hobbies. Where do you go to buy bee's wax anyway, I don't think that I've ever seen it for sale.:veryconfu

[Ben]

If you want to go on the cheap, try this :

Barry Dar's homeade lube which is :

1lb parafin
1lb vasoline
30cc STP oil
crayon for color ( You pick the color )

Stir and mix on low heat until all the components have mixed together.

I still think if you had a tapered punch and placed it in the mouth of the case and gave a couple of soft taps with a small light weight hammer to allow about 1/16 " ( or less ) of the bullet base to enter the case mouth, you'd end up with better results.

[Centaur 1]

Thanks Ben, I'm gonna try both ideas...........Mike

[Ben]

Keep us posted with your progress.

[RKJ]

Barry Dar's homeade lube which is :

1lb parafin
1lb vasoline
30cc STP oil
crayon for color ( You pick the color )

Stir and mix on low heat until all the components have mixed together.

I still think if you had a tapered punch and placed it in the mouth of the case and gave a couple of soft taps with a small light weight hammer to allow about 1/16 " ( or less ) of the bullet base to enter the case mouth, you'd end up with better results.[/QUOTE]

Centaur 1, I'm not trying to hijack your thread but I have a question about the above recipe. Ben, is that lube suitable for a Lyman 4500? If so, how would I get it into the reservoir? I don't have the unit yet but anticipate having it by the end of the month. Thank you both for putting up with my butting in. :)

[Ben]

Yes, Barry Darr's lube will work with the Lyman 4500.

How do you get the lube into a Lyman 4500 ?.........like this
( do not overfill the reservoir) When pouring the liquid lube, bring lube level to within about 1 1/2 " of the top and then stop !! :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=29088

[RKJ]

Yes, Barry Darr's lube will work with the Lyman 4500.

How do you get the lube into a Lyman 4500 ?.........like this
( do not overfill the reservoir) When pouring the liquid lube, bring lube level to within about 1 1/2 " of the top and then stop !! :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=29088

Thank You, I saw your previous thread and I thought that was how most did it, but then I see the tubes from the different manufacturers and got to thinking. Of course if you ask my wife when I start thinking, it's not always a good thing. :) Thanks again