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Ekalb2000
04-09-2010, 09:51 PM
Guy at work is bringing in his for me to look at next week. He has no clue what he has, so I dont know if its a 91/30 or one of the short ones. I have heard that it shots real good. I offered him fifthy bucks for it and he said he would take it.
From what I have read, they have some big bores. Which is why I would like to know if you PP for the mosin. I have a Lee 200gr 309 mold.
If I use thicker paper, could I get it up to 313-314? I got tons of cash register paper.
Anyway, I guess I will know more next week after I slug the bore.

thanks

andy

docone31
04-09-2010, 09:57 PM
You are probably going to be better off with the Lee 303B mold.
It is not just the size, it is how the nose rides in the paper.
Good luck.

303Guy
04-09-2010, 10:12 PM
The Mosin is supposed to be 30 cal but has a larger groove diameter. Whatever. Thing is, now I'm interested in how it's going to shoot!:-) How's the supply of cases in your parts?

I have a 303 Brit with a bore which is probably bigger than a Mosin's due to wear and so far it seems to shoot pretty good with a patched boolit.

Ekalb2000
04-09-2010, 10:25 PM
Cases? I havent even thought that far ahead yet.:groner:

nicholst55
04-09-2010, 10:51 PM
The inexpensive Privi brass is out of stock at Graf's; both they and Midway have Lapua, and Midway also has Norma. Spendy, but excellent brass!

303Guy
04-10-2010, 12:00 AM
There you go, Ekalb2000. Problem solved! So now then, when do you take delivery of the rifle?[smilie=1:

Do you have access to a lathe? (If you do, I just happen to have a few tricks for sizing and expanding for paper patched boolits).:roll:

Are you planning on shooting it as is (perhaps upgrading the iron sights a bit)?

If the bore needs fire-lapping, this is how I do it. This thing cleans out the bore with great efficiency with one or two shots, depending how much rust or crud is in it.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-565F-1.jpg

Only the second to last groove gets filled with fine grinding paste and is contained within the case neck so no grit can get between the case and chamber. The long, narrow bit holds a bore riding 'nose' to guide the bullet into the bore. it is basically a throat fitting design, tailored to fit the throat. The idea being to force the grit into the grooves to clean out the crud and rust. It works!

rhbrink
04-10-2010, 09:42 PM
You are probably going to be better off with the Lee 303B mold.
It is not just the size, it is how the nose rides in the paper.
Good luck.

Recently picked up a Mosin myself and I'm thinking of paper patch myself. I don't have a suitable mold for this bore about .305 at the breech with .314 grooves. So the question is just how is the nose suppose to ride in the paper? I have been reading up on this and assume that the paper should ride up over the ogive so that no lead actually touches the bore, but haven't found anything that says exactly how tight the nose should be in the paper patch. Hope that this is clearer than mud any help appreciated.

MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

303Guy
04-10-2010, 11:44 PM
I've the same question. I've found that a boolit patched to groove diameter on the bore ride is the only way to load for some of my rifles. By firing into a 'test tube' I can asses whether or not the patch is disuntegrating and have found it does when the pressure and velocity is high enough. I cannot examine the boolits themselves as they get turned inside out on impact. But the patch fragments are recoverable. .305 bore at the breach could mean having to use thicker paper.

One of my rifles takes a bore-ride patched to .315!

Ekalb2000
04-10-2010, 11:47 PM
Rolled up a couple tonight. I already had some sized boolits at .309. All I did was lightly wet the paper prior to the roll. I then lightly applied some of my lube to the outside. And they came out at 314.5 to 315. I dont think I will get by with not running these through an opened up push thru sizer.
I definatly see what you mean about the paper riding over the ogive. That Lee boolit has to much af an angle me thinks.

Ekalb2000
04-10-2010, 11:52 PM
303
I dont have access to a lathe. That cleaner looks wicked.
I will keep the original sights on it. I wont be doing any sniping with it.

Oh, I get the rifle next week.

303Guy
04-10-2010, 11:52 PM
How does that boolit fit the throat? I have a guage rod I use to see how deep it goes in.

rhbrink
04-11-2010, 08:14 AM
I did buy some Winchester brass from Buffalo Arms.com they were $49 @ 100 already primed. I thought there was a taboo on shipping primed cases but guess not. Didn't say primed and the guy that I ordered from didn't mention being primed but got them anyway.

Nobade
04-11-2010, 09:24 AM
I have been playing with a 91/30 recently, it had a very pitted and rough bore so it's perfect to see if this lapping with PP boolits works. First time I shot it, I couldn't hit the berm at 100M twice in a row. I've had it out twice now, shooting PP with 240 grit lapping compound smeared on the exposed patch. It's getting shinier, but has a long way to go. I figure a couple of trips out (firing 10 rounds each time) and then I'll switch to 400 grit for a while. The bore/groove is .300/.314, and I'm shooting boolits at .315 now. Hopefully it doesn't get too big, because .317 is about as big as I can go and still chamber a round. For a barrel with such a big groove diameter, the chamber neck is pretty tight at .339. I guess these rifles are made for thin steel cased ammo? Anyhow, we shall see if it smooths out enough to shoot decently or gets destroyed trying.

Three44s
04-11-2010, 09:41 AM
Primed empty brass gets a free ride as to hazmat fees.

Three 44s

rhbrink
04-11-2010, 01:21 PM
Nobade mine was the same way the more I cleaned and shot and cleaned the bigger it got, ended up with a .314 groove and about .340 neck. My muzzle measures about .301 and .312 groove go figure that, doesn't appear to be too worn at the breech. Shoots jacket great just haven't come up with a suitable cast yet, gonna give this paper patch thing a try and see what happens.

MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

rhbrink
04-12-2010, 04:05 PM
Well I did it. First paper patch in a Mosin somewhere down below there is a thread that says you are suppose to fail on your first attempt, I'm right on schedule. One minute of berm at 100 yards it's a big berm too. I think I need a thicker patch only thing I had available was some Mead Tracing paper barely could patch up to .313 but no lead!

docone31
04-12-2010, 04:24 PM
Notebook paper. It will get you .317.
You must be close, my first ones were 20 minutes of berm at 100yds. Safest place was in direct line of the muzzle.
Another point,
At .313, try smearing some Valve Lapping Compound on the patches. It should tighten up the groups. If it does, you are close to hitting the nail. The Valve compound adds .0005 to the patch.
That is how I found the diameter for the die to final size.

303Guy
04-12-2010, 06:14 PM
This is sort of what you should be aiming for.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-658F.jpg

The rifling engraving marks are clealy visible. This loading chambers with some force and as can be seen, extracts just fine. The trick is to make sure the case chambers freely prior to loading - that's to make sure the neck is not what's going in tight with the seated boolit. If that happens, the chamber pressure rises quite a bit. So, measure the free fitting case neck OD and re-measure with the boolit seated. The expansion should be tiny - hardly measurable with a micrometer. The neck tension is gained by the compression of the paper. Oh, this is using printer paper which is thicker than note-pad paper and a lot more compressable.

rhbrink
04-12-2010, 08:06 PM
Thanks guys I just rolled up some with notebook paper I think they will be a little larger when dry, I did have some printer paper on hand 24# but can't work with that stuff just falls apart when wet. I shot two different bullets one is a Saeco 315 sized to .308 and the other is a Lyman 311644 sized to .308 using 48 grains of H4350 seemed like a stiff load but no lead. The first shot hit the paper target about one foot high and two right thought well this is going to work, Wrong that was the only one so I shot the rest at a clump of weeds on the berm. Shoot a couple check for lead shoot a couple more I finished up with the lyman and just maybe it was starting to group but just shooting a weeds is hard to tell for sure. I am getting a little better at rolling the patches that could be part of the problem as I wasn't real consistant at getting them to come out all the same. Some would overlap a bit and then the next might be a little short once in a while I would get it about right. Looking at 303Guy's bullet I can see that I wasn't getting rifleing marks on the nose I'll try to make sure that happens before I go back to the range. There is much to learn here for sure!

I did show them to a couple of know-it-all benchrest shooters they said they had never seen anything like that in their life. Too bad they live in such a small sheltered world.

Appreciate the help.

Richard
MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

docone31
04-12-2010, 08:14 PM
You don't use a cigarette roller to roll the patches?

6.5 mike
04-12-2010, 09:03 PM
What I do is first make a dummy rd ( old steel cases work well if shot in the same gun) to find the max oal. Then I pp'er the boolit I'm going to use as far out toward the nose as I can, seat this in another case to oal, try to chamber it. If it wo'nt I guesstamate the amount I need to trim off the nose. Using a sharp shop knife I'll trim & try until it will chamber with a slight force to close the bolt. I usually run a cleaning rod down the bore so the boolit doesn't pull when I open the bolt & check how much the rifling shows on the patch. You can then lay your boolit next to this round to see how wide your patch needs to be, I tuck mine at the base so you might want more width if you twist your tails.
One thing to be careful of, make sure you have enough clearence at the neck to allow it to expand when fired. I measure a fired (that gun) case neck outside & a loaded neck to make sure it will work.
I've used this from 6.5 swedes to 45-70s, works for me.

303Guy
04-12-2010, 09:34 PM
I did have some printer paper on hand 24# but can't work with that stuff just falls apart when wet.Hee hee! That's why I dry wrap. Try a cigarette roller as docone31 suggests. It will work. Still not as easy a dry wrapping if you happen to have clumsy fingers like me!:roll:

This is a dry wrapped boolit with the skirt glued. Therein lies the disadvantage.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-655F.jpg

This the begining of the skirt crimp/fold.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-656F.jpg

Sizing flattens the crimped/folded tail completely.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-657F-1.jpg

I have a pic somewhere of a patch being applied using a cig roller but now I can't find it!

rhbrink
04-12-2010, 10:01 PM
You don't use a cigarette roller to roll the patches?

Fingers, if I do much of this and I'm guessing that I will I'll be shopping for a cigrette roller.

303Guy what do you use for glue?

docone31
04-12-2010, 10:11 PM
You do not use glue!!!
This is so simple.
Cut a strip, 1". Cut it at opposing 45* angles 1 3/8". Soak in water, lay on the roller apron, set the casting, roll it. It squeegees the water and the patched casting comes out of the apron damp. Set to dry. It shrinks down around the lands and dries tighter than you can imagine. The patch actually gets hard.
Why do it so hard for yourself?
I put on the History channel, or Discovery, and roll a couple of hundred. I size mine, so I let them dry, hard, dab on some Auto Wax, run them through the sizer, load and fire.
It is really relaxing.

rhbrink
04-12-2010, 10:23 PM
"Why do it so hard for yourself?"

Cause I come from a long line of Dutchmen

You can tell a Dutchman but you can't tell him much!!!

OK! I'll go shopping for a roller!

MISSOURIANS for MOSINS I'm from Missouri too, does that tell you anything?

docone31
04-12-2010, 10:32 PM
Ha! Got you beat! I am a Swedish Inuit!
You can tell a Swede, but you cannot tell him anything!
My family has a long history here.
A lot of it sad.
Get a roller, spend time shooting!
You should spend about 3$.

303Guy
04-12-2010, 10:44 PM
One can dry wrap without glue. The trick is to twist the patch tight then wet undrt the trailing 'tail'. this will only work with some papers. For me the glue is a short cut. No glue must get onto the patch body itself, only the skirt overhang. I would not try glue for target work. I'm not recommending glue but I use school kids paper glue and only a tiny dab under the trailing corner where it overhangs the boolit. I use the glue for load testing in my 'test tube' where accuracy has no meaning. I did field test a few glue patches and was pleasantly surprized at the result.:mrgreen:

rhbrink
04-13-2010, 05:45 AM
You've convinced me I'll be on the lookout for a roller.

Don't really know but I would bet that most if not all the people and families that came over from the "OLD" countries did'nt leave under happy times.

MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

docone31
04-13-2010, 09:21 AM
You are right there.
They left to better themselves, and they were not well liked when they came here.
They kept to themselves, and tried to not pass on what they hated most.
They were tough old coots.

Ekalb2000
04-13-2010, 01:02 PM
Picked it up yestereday, it a 1943 91/30. Chewed him dow to forty bucks and the hard case too boot. Man there was grease in there from when it was manufactured. I have not sluged it yet. But it has very deep grooves. Not too shiny, yet. It has been counter bored. Took the stock off and gave it a good washing in the tub. Needs another bath. Then a good sanding.

I cant wait to roll up some PP for this. This thread is now in my fav list. Good info in here.

Its sad when the ammo costs more than the rifle.

Does anyone have a blueprint of the wraps?

thanks all

andy

303Guy
04-13-2010, 04:25 PM
Ummmm ..... any chance of pictures?:roll:


Does anyone have a blueprint of the wraps?I do but I cannot figure out how to pass it on in a useable format. If you had software that could read DWG files I could pass some examples to you, including my trick for designing patches for tapered or two-diameter boolits. Not absolutely necessary but it does make patch alignment easier for me.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-482F.jpg
These might not work so well with a roller.

The fact that it's been counterbored means the bore was worn toward the muzzle. I've seen a 'late' model Mosin (with folding bayonet) that had an unfired bore!

303Guy
04-13-2010, 04:36 PM
I just tesed the 'shaped' patch with a roller and no, it doesn't work! Too difficult to align on the apron. It might be do-able with some trial and error and by placing a set of alignment marks on the apron, but nah - just go with straight, parallel sides.

JSH
04-13-2010, 06:29 PM
I went and looked at "rollers", man they had at least a half dozen. What are the little alligator clips for that come with some of them? Maybe for twisting the tails?


LOL


I am watching with interest.
jeff

303Guy
04-13-2010, 08:03 PM
Well, I haven't used my roller for a long time and so when docone31 advised to use one I went and tried it with printerpaper. Well, I can vouch for docone31. It wraps tight and dries even tighter! So much so that I would have to use a slightly narrower patch to allow for the stretch the roller gives the patch. It dries tighter than plain wet wrapping. But for me, wet patching doesn't suite my style so for now, I'll stay with dry wrapping - without glue. I changed my patch angle and the need for glue went away.[smilie=1: I would suggest a 30° angle off the certical. Easier to wrap - for me.:roll:

Zeek
04-16-2010, 01:23 PM
. . . . I'll stay with dry wrapping - without glue. I changed my patch angle and the need for glue went away.[smilie=1: I would suggest a 30° angle off the vertical. Easier to wrap - for me.:roll:

I have used 30° angle for years now, but HAD been using a bit (perhaps 1/20 of a drop) of carpenter's glue at the final corner to prevent that tag end from getting uppity. However, now that I have switched to Rooster Jacket (smeared onto the wet patch right after wrapping), I find that it glues down that errant top rather nicely, but the PPatch flies right off at the muzzle still.
Zeek

rhbrink
04-16-2010, 07:06 PM
Well a little better used notebook paper and was able to see rifling marks like post #18, I think my Lee .314 sizing die needs to be opened a little pushing a lead ball through it measures .313 but the patched boolit measured .3145 still not big enough. My first 5 shots at 50 yards were about a 4 to 5 inch group then things went haywire again boolits all over the place with gas checks and no gas checks. I don't think my patch is tight enough as I picked up a few wrinkles when seating the boolits. After seeing the loose patches I readjusted my boolit seater and may have eliminated so of the problem but don't know how many were loose before I caught the problem, lots of little things going on here that need to be addressed one at a time. So.....

Open the booilt sizer

GET A ROLLER

Any other ideas?

Richard
MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

Beekeeper
04-16-2010, 10:21 PM
Docone31,
Where did you buy your cigarette wraping machine?
Was in a local shop today and asked about one and got the old *** stare from owner and customers alike.
This was the largest smoke shop within 40 miles of where I live.
Info appreciated.


Jim

docone31
04-16-2010, 10:25 PM
Get em while you can.
http://www.ryotobacco.com/page/ryot/PROD/hroll/TOP70MM
Any this size works well.

303Guy
04-17-2010, 04:50 AM
I got my roller from a bottle store! No-one else seemed to have one.

I do find that little dab of paper glue (carpenters glue might be better) helps with that tag end! Mine still get uppity from time to time without glue. Still, it's an extra step so if I can do without it ... [smilie=1:


I don't think my patch is tight enough as I picked up a few wrinkles when seating the boolits.I've had that. I can't remember what the remedy was! I'm dry wrapping smooth sided boolits and not getting any patch movement or wrinkling. I'm now even sizing them and the patch holds fast. I wonder what's different? Smooth paper maybe? I was using a notepad paper that did not bond between layers with wet wrapping. It might have been that paper that would slip and/or crinkle at times.

How hard or soft is your alloy? Meaning, can it upset in the bore on firing?

Just a thought - something I have not tried out but I am hearing reports that certain case fillers work wonders. COW and corn cob tumble media come to mind. These seem to act as a wad which protects the boolit base from deformation and flame cutting and also clean the bore. These may not be relevent to paper patching but still worth looking into.

rhbrink
04-17-2010, 06:14 AM
Alloy measures about 18 BHN on my Saeco Hardness tester which to me is plenty hard as the main idea for me is to eventually use these as a hunting round mainly deer and hopefully maybe a pig or two. As for the patch wrinkles I was only getting them when seating boolits, I think that I had my boolit seater die set too deep and the patch was catching inside the die body (that was made for .308 bullets) raising the die and readjusting the seating stem seemed to eliminate that problem.

The booilt that I'm shooting weights 190 grains with 48 grains of H4350 do you think it needs to be harder, the load seems plenty fast to me its got a good thump on both ends that is when I hit something.

Looks like I'll order one of docone31's rollers, that looks too simple to work. Been getting a few of those *** stares lately myself I think that I've had a few on my own ugly mug too.

Thanks guys appreciate the help Richard

MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

Zeek
04-17-2010, 09:29 AM
Alloy measures about 18 BHN . . . . booilt that . . . . weights 190 grains with 48 grains of H4350

Ah! Now THERE's some useful information. Thanks! QuickLOAD callis this a 38 Kpsi load, so the Kpsi/BHN ratio (for figuring the range of "good fit" pressure range for a given PPCBoo core hardness) is 2.1.

Well, I have seen this ratio go up to 3.0. So, now we have a range of 2.1 to 3.0 for the Kpsi/BHN ratio. Good thing to know!
Zeek

barrabruce
04-17-2010, 09:36 AM
I deburr my case mouths with a lee chamfer tool so there is a slight lead in and not a straight edge.
About a whisker less than 1/2 neck thickness.

I've had to size my case necks so far :(
But open them up so the pp boolit can just be seated by hand.
A firm sliding push fit.


At first my initial patching was a bit soft/loose and they would either catch and tear the patch while seating....too tight a neck.

Or the patch would ride up over the nose...not gripping the bullet ..paper too loose.

Apparently after the first 1000 or so it gets easier..or so I'm told and you get more consistent.

I have used cig papers. They seem to dry harder than note book.

I am just starting to experiment with printer paper.
Cos its thicker it is harder for me to size but they come out real hard.

After I get the base in the case a firm twisting pushing action seat the pp bullet nicely.
Not dramas at all.

I patch to the orgave and then seat one in a spent shell. Load that in the chamber. close the action and the rifle seats it to length. If the bullet sticks either the neck tension is too loose ...or too tight for the bullet to move.

Hope it helps

I'm not an expert nor have obtained any wonderfull accuracy yet...but working on it.
Only around 1.5 moa .
Should be about 1.0 moa for my rifle

I'm still plugging along and learning ..slowly......If I maybe breach seated them hard they may work better for me but I want to be able to extract them.
Barra

303Guy
04-17-2010, 05:07 PM
Mine are tight enough that they actually need seating in the press. Mine also require a slight belling of the mouth. I've reloaded one particular case several times without needing to resize the neck. That's just luck with the chamber size, neck thickness and brass springyness.

One trick is to fully anneal the neck. That way, max neck tension isn't so high it 'sizes' the boolit. It's also easier to control the final neck size to 'just right'. Then with special dies, the amount of working of the neck is so small that the brass shouldn't need re-annealing for a long time.

rhbrink
04-17-2010, 07:25 PM
I think that I will cast up some boolits that will be harder, don't see what that would hurt? As for neck tension I have to size the case down slightly for the boolit to be tight enough to be handled. I haven't opened the Lee .314 sizer die but will I think that a little larger would be better. As it is now I can easily slide a boolit into a fired case and then probably shake it out, much too loose. Don't think that the brass needs to be annealed but that is a good point and will watch for it. The method that I am using is to partially size the neck with a Redding S die which uses a bushing to size to what ever you would want. Right now the largest bushing that I have is .334 which is about right for .314 boolits. This S die is actually for a 30 BR but I have found that I can size about 1/2 the neck of the 7.62 X 54 by just running the case into the BR sizer, I cut a piece of PVC pipe that I slide over the case to prevent me from going too far. I then bell the case mouth ever so slightly with a 32 cal expander. I plan on starting another thread someday explaining how I do this if I can ever get this thing to shoot a boolit.

Maybe after a 1000 or so it'll get easer? Looks like a loooong row to hoe!

Richard
MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

303Guy
04-21-2010, 01:41 AM
Maybe after a 1000 or so it'll get easer? Looks like a loooong row to hoe!Actually, it will come a lot quicker than that. There do seem to be some basic 'rules' to follow but I haven't quite figured them yet.
I would put rule number one as being; "Be prepared to have some 'fun'!"
Rule # two - "Take it easy, take it slow." :drinks:

Hey, one great thing about paper patching is that we can enjoy a beer while doing the patching! We can't blow ourselves or our guns up!:mrgreen: :drinks:

rhbrink
04-28-2010, 09:27 PM
Still no success, made it back to the range, different boolit, harder, opened push through die now get .3165 to .317. I can load the boolit in the case and hold with some tension enough to chamber and extract complete at least in a clean chamber, this is without resizing the case neck. I am picking up some lead, the boolits are tipping at 50 yds that is the ones that hit paper.
I think that the patch is being burnt up in the barrel, no paper, only thing comming out of the barrel that I can tell is a lead boolit and hot gas there is the smell of burning paper in the air, had a wind blowing straight back at me today 12 o'clock 20 to 35 mph.
I have been shooting starting loads for jacket bullets I'm thinking about dropping to a very mild load of 4895 maybe 4759? If I could shoot a 200 grain boolit at about 2000 fps it would do all that I want.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Score
Paperpatch Boolits 75 Success 0

MISSOURIANS for MOSINS

303Guy
04-29-2010, 02:29 AM
I think that the patch is being burnt up in the barrel, no paper, only thing comming out of the barrel that I can tell is a lead boolit and hot gas there is the smell of burning paper in the air, had a wind blowing straight back at me today 12 o'clock 20 to 35 mph.
Burnt paper? Interesting! I have recovered patches (almost whole) that were heat scorched. That bit of info should be added to a sticky for reference!

With one of my guns I had to develope a load that produced enough pressure to disintegrate the patch. I would think that means the boolit needed enough accelerating force to give it enough lateral pressure in the bore to break up the patch. In another gun, that same load was too much and the bore leaded but I did not get tumbling. That bore requires a lower powder charge to disintegrate the patch without leading. I also use a thicker paper in it. But I have noticed that lubing the patch makes a big difference! My lube is my regular case lube and is applied in the same way - by rolling the boolit on the lube pad. My lube of choice is STP. (Do not saturate the patch). Other folks use emulsion wax (wax car polish, wax case lube, etc) as a patch lube and it works for them. But then maybe their rifle's bores are not as bad as mine?[smilie=1:

Ekalb2000
04-29-2010, 09:08 PM
Well, I thought it was a counter bored brl. The end was completly smooth, no rifling for a couple inches. After looking at real hard and running a peice of bent wire down the muzzle, it did not hit any lip. I know this is probably real bad.
I have a friend that sporterized a 91/30. He did a real good job of it. Put it in a nice synthetic stock. Cut a few inches off the brl. Mounted a decent scope, and now he has a good hunting rifle.
Well, I really like steel and wood.
I started with the wood first. I took all kinds of measurements. Tons of reading and research. 7.5 inches later. A chamfer and solder job.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pj_fpumZhAQsMtmfxQ3uBj54ZPHSOpzhIz6EFB4H-FCd2Jm4sT_6Lcb4cO52SvDashyvJoDC2vMfrxtJnWw5FPA/P1060293.JPG
I kind of got blamed for "bubba'ing" this up on another site. Constructive critisizim I can handle. Im a crew chief, I got thick skin.
As soon as the surplus ammo gets here, I will be able to give a range report. I hope it aint bad.
Going to slug the brl this weekend. I hope its not to big.

rhbrink
04-30-2010, 04:56 AM
Hey! That looks great to me but I'm no expert just getting started into these Mosins, from what I have seen thse guns are all over the place with modifications from the Russians, Finns, Germans and about everybody else in the 3rd world. If someone doesn't like tell them to take a hike. Just my .02 cents worth. Mine had already been bubba'ed, stock butchered, barrel chopped but still rusty in the end, all kinds of mixed matched parts. I cut off 4" of barrel and probably will cut another 2" but will try to get by now with as is. Mine shoots jacket stuff great 1.5" to 2" at 100 yards just trying to get a proper cast boolit is the problem so I'm working on the paper patch, no luck yet but I'm hard headed and determined to make this work somehow. Prepare yourself for a journey, may the force be with you and GOOD LUCK!

Beekeeper
04-30-2010, 10:02 AM
Looks great from the picture . I hope it shoots as good as it looks.
Don't feel bad about taking flack on the other site, I was banned from there for having an opinion that differed from theirs. Horror of Horror I wanted to refinish a 91-30 stock with something other than red shellac. I even went so far as to question why they had the red shellac to start with.Caused a furror almost as bad as Arizona has right now.


Jim