Load data for a paper patched Lee 200g 309 in an 03a3

[sheepdog]

I'd really like to get some decent groups on the first try and go up from there :)

WW 200s with tracing paper trapezoid 2 wraps. Sized down to 309, little bit of paper on the bases. Unlubed as of yet so not sure what to do there. Powders I have on hand are varget, red dot, and some old 2400.

[docone31]

I use start data for jacketeds.
Varget, and 4895 are pretty close.
Probably around 50gns. Check to make sure.

[sheepdog]

Docone have you ran this exact boolit in paper patch with those loads? I only get to shoot about once a month now so I would like to start with a known good load.

[docone31]

In my 03A3, I use a paper patched casting, final sized to .309. I use the start data for jackated loads.
I have gone with lessor loads, but did not get the performance that jacketed load data provided.
I have found, the paper jacket is like a copper jacket. Difference being, it cleans the bore rather than copper fouling it.
All my patched loads use start data with them. My .303 Brit, my .308, my G63 Swede, My 03A3.
I size the prime casting to .308, then wrap twice. For the .30 cals, I size to .309, for the Brit I size to .314.
You will get absolute **** for accuracy untill you have fired some down range. The paper polishes the bore. It gets the lead out so to speak.
Once there, you gonna like it.

[pdawg_shooter]

Pick a powder that will give you as near 100% load density as possible. H or IMR 4831 would be a good place to start.

[sheepdog]

Pick a powder that will give you as near 100% load density as possible. H or IMR 4831 would be a good place to start.

Not sure I understand.

[pdawg_shooter]

I get my best accuracy with a powder slow enough to fill, or nearly fill the case to the base of the bullet. In all 3 of my -06s with the Lyman 311284, 4831 works best, with 4350 a close second. The faster powders used with bare lead are not anywhere near as good, accuracy or velocity wise. In a 300RUM with the same bullets I use R25.

[herbert buckland]

In my 03A3, I use a paper patched casting, final sized to .309. I use the start data for jackated loads.
I have gone with lessor loads, but did not get the performance that jacketed load data provided.
I have found, the paper jacket is like a copper jacket. Difference being, it cleans the bore rather than copper fouling it.
All my patched loads use start data with them. My .303 Brit, my .308, my G63 Swede, My 03A3.
I size the prime casting to .308, then wrap twice. For the .30 cals, I size to .309, for the Brit I size to .314.
You will get absolute **** for accuracy untill you have fired some down range. The paper polishes the bore. It gets the lead out so to speak.
Once there, you gonna like it.sory for buting in but i was wondering about how many PP boolits have to be fierd before the acuracy comes back,lick you can get with lacked boolits

[303Guy]

Yes, as herbert asks, having a small assortment of rifles in various states of decay ..... (all Lee Endfields). One of my very old and well used rifles (used with cordite, no less) seemed to get rather good accuracy the very first time I tried it in the field. But it did have a number of developement rounds fired through it.

Thing is, how does one distinguish between a load that won't work and a load that needs a good few shots to 'condition' the bore?

[Nobade]

I don't know, my M1 Garand shot PP really well first try using the service load of 47 gr. 4895. But now I'm working with a 91/30 Mosin that has a pitted bore from corrosive ammo. So far it's terrible, and I'm curious to see what it takes to get it to work. Every time I go to the range I'm taking 10 PP loads to smear some clover compound on the patch and fire it, get home and clean it and see what it looks like. Some day it'll either be really worn out or will slick up and start to shoot.

[Zeek]

. . . Thing is, how does one distinguish between a load that won't work and a load that needs a good few shots to 'condition' the bore?

Farm-out & right-arm, 303Guy. THAT is the million-CBoo question, alright. In experimenting with two-diameter PPCBoos (nose is bore-riding and left bare), I have run into the situation where a given load worked okay, so I tried a hotter charge (worked poorly) only to find that, when I went back to the okay load, it, too, would be bad now. This told me that I had leading on top of the lands. A few 400-grit fire-lapping rounds fixed that.

However, what if I shot a too-hot load (poor accuracy) and then backed off to what WOULD have been a neat well-balanced load, but the rifle still put them all over the place? At that point, the okay load would just look like another bad load.

When dealing with a situation like this, it appears best to have developed a good-performing "reference" load first. Then, shoot a three-shot group with it, from time to time, if you get a series of poorly-performing loads. If your good load prints a wide group, then you know you need a couple of 400-grit fire-lapping shots. Without such a precautionary tool, one is running blind and is likely to miss out on some darn good loads. This precaution/tool only applies to the use of two-diameter (bare-bore-riding-nose) PPCBoos in bottleneck cases.
Regards, Zeek

[pdawg_shooter]

Or you could size them one size ad patch them full length and not have to worry about lead fouling you barrel.

[herbert buckland]

Or you could size them one size ad patch them full length and not have to worry about lead fouling you barrel.with the boolit i am yousing and my chamber this can not be done or the OAL is way to short and the boolit is seated way to deep

[303Guy]

Aah! So your bore is near on spec! Well, I have one in similar condition so maybe I can do some playing around and we can compare notes. (I have all my Lee Enfields out on the carpet at the moment. I have to decide how I'm going to use each one!:mrgreen:)

[herbert buckland]

Aah! So your bore is near on spec! Well, I have one in similar condition so maybe I can do some playing around and we can compare notes. (I have all my Lee Enfields out on the carpet at the moment. I have to decide how I'm going to use each one!:mrgreen:)that would be a great help,of the 6 303s i wont to try to PP all are lick this i have one that can be full lenth PP but its bore is ruined throte badly worn and cord warn at muzell

[303Guy]

can be full lenth PP but its bore is ruined throte badly worn and cord warn at muzellIt can be salvaged! Lose a bit of muzzle and fire-lap with these (fire-lap first).

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-565F-1.jpg

[herbert buckland]

It can be salvaged! Lose a bit of muzzle and fire-lap with these (fire-lap first).

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-565F-1.jpgit is a 1892 MLM MkII in very good condition on the outside ,the bore is shiny but worn,with .314 boolits it will shoot OK and then for some reason one will tumbel,I have plenty of other 303s as i colect NSW marked fierarms but the main rifle i want to PP for is my granfathers BSA Long Tom range rifle it has one of the 1920s Lithgow barells fited ,it is a tack driver with highland 174gr target boattail boolits but i am having trouble with cast and sofar disarturs with PP its groove Dianeter is .313 ,the muzell guges to .306 so it is a litle worn but smooth rifling,interesting laping gagit is it made of brass or bronze and wat load do you youse to push it trough