Wiping out between shots

[PAT303]

What techniques do you guys have of wiping out between shots,what do you use to wipe out with.I have been shooting at the Aust Nationals and there was a few different idea's like anti freeze and water,glass cleaner etc and one wet then one dry and then an oil patch or just wet and dry,one I'd like to try is ATF as a cleaner between shots.Can you give me some idea's as I'd like to try and see if different idea's give me the groups I'm after. Pat

[Huntsman]

If I'm using real Black powder I use either Butches Bore Shine or Hoppes Black powder solvent. 1x saturated patch swab the bore like a trumbone twice followed two dry patches and last one with Bore Butter.
If I'm using Pyrodex or Triple 7 I use Windex or automotive windshield cleaner and same technique minus the bore butter.
I tend to refrain from using any slovents or oils as it will un-season the Bore Buttered barrel.
Mind you, the 1st technique is used with my traditional sidelocks and the 2nd is with my in-line.

[rhbrink]

About anything with water in the mix will work, Ballistol mixed with water, Moose Juice, Windex with Vinegar mixed with water, plain ole spit if you have enough works fine. No need to pay for high dollar stuff make somrthing up and experiment.

[Lead Fred]

Never had to.
I use all the T/C 1000+ products. I even soak my patches in number 13.
I can shoot all day long, the patch cleans the shot before.

For black powder cartridge shooting I use a patch with T/C 1000+ bore butter every 10th round or so.

[waksupi]

Pat, if shooting black powder, do not use the ATF fluid. You will make asphalt inside your barrel. Windex with vinegar is better for this.
If shooting jacketed bullets, Ed's Red for powder fouling, Blue Goop for copper fouling.
If shooting cast, don't clean the barrel.

[twildman]

I use neatsfoot oil as my patch lube, and between shots, wipe with one patch with the same oil, then one dry patch. Works like a charm.
terry

[Andy Mac]

For my .451 pedresoli gibbs i use 1 patch with Mr muscle window cleaner with added vinegar,then 1 dry patch.

[Maven]

I've tried, with great success, most of the above mentioned methods, excepting oil and ATF. Lately however, I've gone to a spit patch without wiping and have had no fouling or seating problems and great accuracy using FFFg. You may want to try it, as it is very effective.

[missionary5155]

Good afternoon
I grew up around muzzleloading (my dad) and all anyone ever used was a patch full of spit. I place mine in my mouth after blowing down the bore to clear the barrel. Patch in the mouth. Pour the charge through a funnel. Patch is ready to center over the bore.
I am rereading Mr. Ned Roberts "Muzzleloading " book and that was how he was taught by his uncle who grew up when flinters were going out of use. They shot some mighty fine targets ...

[northmn]

In some ranges and matches such as I believe Friendship, blowing down the barrel is not allowed and considered unsafe. I know its been done forever but just a point. I used to be able to shoot a 5 shot realy without wiping and used water or spit or a bore cleaner. Many of the liquid patch lubes today permit a lot of shooting before wiping between shots. Some consider wiping between shots a safety factor also as it can eliminate any sparks left in the bore and not set off the powder charge being dumped, for the same reason you do not load directly from a flask??

Northmn

[Maven]

Here are 2 photos of spit patched round ball results after today's range session. The range was only 25 yds. and I did use a bench rest because of the wind gusts. The particulars were:

Dixie (Miroku) Tenn. Mtn. flintlock .50cal.

Lee .495" RB's + .010" ticking patch; Shiloh .495" RB (cast of WW's) + .018" ticking patch. The Lee RB is actually ~.499", while the Shiloh is only .496". All were weighed.

Powder was 50 grs. Goex FFFg + Dixon's FFFFg priming powder

Flint: T/C 5/8" x 3/4" agate. My rifle really likes this one!

Patch lube: saliva; no wiping between shots (not needed)


For the record, I also tried the above loads & RB's with WonderLube 1000 patch lube and saw little difference in accuracy, but I DID have to wipe between shots and seating the patched RB's was a bit more difficult.

[rhbrink]

Many times you have to take the weather conditions into consideration too, damp humid maybe you can shoot all day, hot and dry powder may burn dry and crusty fouling builds quick, extreme cold causes its own set of problems.

[PAT303]

Pat, if shooting black powder, do not use the ATF fluid. You will make asphalt inside your barrel. Windex with vinegar is better for this.
If shooting jacketed bullets, Ed's Red for powder fouling, Blue Goop for copper fouling.
If shooting cast, don't clean the barrel.

OK asphalts not good,when do you wipe out?,do you load the powder and then a wad and wipe or wipe first then load?. Pat

[PAT303]

I use neatsfoot oil as my patch lube, and between shots, wipe with one patch with the same oil, then one dry patch. Works like a charm.
terry

One of the top shooters did this very same thing,it was the first thing I was going to try. Pat

[PAT303]

I've tried, with great success, most of the above mentioned methods, excepting oil and ATF. Lately however, I've gone to a spit patch without wiping and have had no fouling or seating problems and great accuracy using FFFg. You may want to try it, as it is very effective.

What I've noticed is after a few shots the last inch or so the boolit is pushing onto fouling and needs a shove to get it to seat,my three slug guns,an HH barrelled bench gun,PH volunteer,both 45's and my Volmar swiss federal 10.4mm all do it and I get a flyer or two in every group. Pat

[PAT303]

Many times you have to take the weather conditions into consideration too, damp humid maybe you can shoot all day, hot and dry powder may burn dry and crusty fouling builds quick, extreme cold causes its own set of problems.

I live in the desert so everything is hot and dry,thats my main problem as the fouling sets hard!!!. Pat

[twildman]

Re the neatsfoot oil: I must admit that I cadged that idea from Ned Roberts, as well...

[Buckshot]

............PAT303, I assume you're shooting a patched RB? I don't own any RB type ML'ers, but I'll add my input anyway :-)

http://www.fototime.com/6BF0D8313CD43F3/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/0D4A7DE6512A5FB/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/186C77DEBB70233/standard.jpg

The above targets were tests of various things, but were all fired the same way. The rifle was Parker-Hale repro of the British 1858 Naval pattern 2 band 58 cal Enfield. I use Birchwood Casey black powder solvent. After firing when running the new Minie' downbore I have a patch wetted with the solvent on the ramrod so it's there when running the Minie' down. I can use the same patch 5-6 times before replacing it.

http://www.fototime.com/2F3AB89A064CE52/standard.jpg

..............Buckshot

[PAT303]

The info I'm after is for slug guns.My RB guns are all good. Pat

[Andy Mac]

I put the powder down a drop tube,then put a card wad on the powder.Then clean the bore,any crud sits on the card.I use 1 wet then 1 dry and my paper patched .451's slide down the barrel under the weight of the loading rod.I shoot up to 1000 yards with this.

[missionary5155]

Good morning Pat303
Slug guns... I would highly recommend Ned Roberts Book.. "Muzzleloading the Caplock Rifle". It comes up for sale at all sorts of book places to include here on Castboolits.
Mr Roberts lists the known in his day methods "slug" shooters used to shoot possibly the finest targets that have ever been shot reapededly. They used common everyday wiping mixes. Most these rifles were patched with linen and paper in various methods. Each rifle was different as they are today.
But whatever you do BE CONSISTENT. Write down the loading procedure and do the same just like a scientific experiment if need be. Checklists and procedures and repetition are what will get boring beyond description... but a match is easily lost with just one omision of a detail.

[missionary5155]

In some ranges and matches such as I believe Friendship, blowing down the barrel is not allowed and considered unsafe.

Northmn

Yes I do realise that fine old range took that procedural stand. A real shame one shooter who lost tract of himself and died for it could stop a 350 year old practice at a place that prides itself on Tradition. Sadly people are no longer responsable for thier actions and the general public pays the price.
Maybe one day they will drain the lakes because fishermen lean over the rail of the boat to see the fish they just caught... someone might just fall over the side and drown.
I think I will continue my lung therapy.

[PAT303]

Good morning Pat303
Slug guns... I would highly recommend Ned Roberts Book.. "Muzzleloading the Caplock Rifle". It comes up for sale at all sorts of book places to include here on Castboolits.
Mr Roberts lists the known in his day methods "slug" shooters used to shoot possibly the finest targets that have ever been shot reapededly. They used common everyday wiping mixes. Most these rifles were patched with linen and paper in various methods. Each rifle was different as they are today.
But whatever you do BE CONSISTENT. Write down the loading procedure and do the same just like a scientific experiment if need be. Checklists and procedures and repetition are what will get boring beyond description... but a match is easily lost with just one omision of a detail.

I like your line ''be consistant'',thats one part I'm having trouble with as when I wipe out I think the condition of the bore isn't always the same. Pat

[saz]

All I do is run a spit patch on the wet side then run it again on the other side (kind of dry) and it works like a charm. I have never had to clean at the range. I dont use any bore butter or other solvents except for when I am done cleaning and getting ready to put it back in the safe. And depending on how long it will sit I will give it a light coat of rem oil or if it will be sitting for a long time a patch with bore butter. Works for me- my inline will shoot 1" groups all day long.

[northmn]

Yes I do realise that fine old range took that procedural stand. A real shame one shooter who lost tract of himself and died for it could stop a 350 year old practice at a place that prides itself on Tradition. Sadly people are no longer responsable for thier actions and the general public pays the price.
Maybe one day they will drain the lakes because fishermen lean over the rail of the boat to see the fish they just caught... someone might just fall over the side and drown.
I think I will continue my lung therapy.

I was more or less pointing it out that some ranges do not permit it, not so much not to do it. I have done it for many years no bad results. There have been a few instances besides at Friendship where someone has gotten their eyebrows singed. We had one one time locally. Still I catch myself doing so occaisionally. I still do not like to wipe between every shot, especially with lighter loads.

Northmn

[Geraldo]

I run a patch in and out between shots. I use windshield washer fluid, but not a lot of it so I don't have to run a dry patch after it. WS washer fluid has no magic cleaning or accurizing properties, I just switched to it from spit because I got tired of the taste of patch material.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
I am rereading again Ned Roberts fine book Muzzleloading the Caplock Rifle. Today I was reading the 1874 Match between the US and Irish teems. The Irish used their MUZZLELOADING Rigby rifles and would have won had not one shooter fired on the wrong target.
They did NOT wipe between shots using slugs form 800 to 1000 yards.
In the book Mr Roberts identifies all sorts of loading procedures for slug guns... Some excellent shooters wipe and others do not. It really comes down to what works the best for you. When found adhere to procedure and never change anything at a match.

[62Galaxie]

I use a lube made out of Neet's Foot oil and bee's wax. Make it just solid enough to not be messy when it's hot. Another one I've used is Lehigh Valley lube, don't know if it's made anymore, but it was good. I've come up with a mix that's very similar and have had the same results.

Bob

[Maven]

"What I've noticed is after a few shots the last inch or so the boolit is pushing onto fouling and needs a shove to get it to seat...."

Pat, I noticed this the other day as well after using the spit patch.

[Swampman]

I use a barely damp (with Windex) t-shirt patch between shots. I don't bother to dry patch. I use Birddog6 lube, or make my own with olive oil, lard, and bee's wax.

[JeffinNZ]

I use something similar to Birddog6 (my good friend Keith from down Alabama way - yes, I know everyone!) lube.

On a day with up to about 70% humidity a dry patch will do. As things get drier I use just a puff of liquid on the patch. The big thing is not to get the bore too slick or accuracy will go west.

My procedure is to wipe with the clean patch once each side only. I see guys wiping with the same patch shot after shot until the patch looks like a piece of coal. Dumb! Load the ball with a dry patch over the jag so that any excess lube and fluid is removed AFTER the ball is loaded leaving the bore quite dry. The patch has more than enough lube to do the job. This tightened up my groups like you would not believe. TOO much lube will kill your accuracy. I believe it is a lack of friction that does not allow the ball to bump up and engage properly.

[Swampman]

BTW you can wash the patches and reuse them.

[Hanshi]

Rarely do I HAVE to wipe at the range and-when I do-find that a couple of strokes with a bronze brush works wonders. Fouling can then be dumped out the muzzle. Brushing does a great job especially during periods of low to moderate humidity. Following up with a dry patch is an option that certainly doesn't do any harm that I can see.

I've lived in Ga. and Va. and believe me low humidity is not that common, particularly in Ga. I've had fouling literally turn to liquid and pour out the barrel! Last year at a woods walk shoot in the Dismal Swamp region of Eastern Va. I experienced this very type of fouling. A couple or three dry patches were required to dry out the gummy, wet bore. It is easier to wipe out the bore in high humidity, and get this, you don't really need a wet patch. Actually in most conditions I've encountered a dry patch is all that's needed. If I need a wet patch I use Black Solve followed by a couple of dry patches.

Although I sometimes hear it mentioned, not much is usually said concerning fouling getting pushed down to the breech and causing misfires. This "failure to fire" after wiping is not a rare occurrence for me though I've noticed it mostly when using a wet patch in the wiping process. Perhaps it's my technique or something I neglect to do; I don't know. I do know it's the reason I never wipe the bore unless seating pressure increases. As for that last half inch at the breech where a fouling ring seems to develop-and is noticeable at the conclusion of the seating process-a brush works better without causing misfires.

My lube of choice is Hoppes #9 Plus BP solvent. With Hoppes and a good, snug patch, I can shoot several dozen rounds (at least) with no increase in seating resistance or loss of accuracy. Of course I don't do chunk guns so can't speak for gilt edged precision needed in high competition events. It works for my guns so I can't complain....but I do anyway. :killingpc

[stubshaft]

I use teflon patching when punching paper with a PRB and as such need to wipe between shots.

When hunting I use LHV and .015" ticking and don't.

[ResearchPress]

the 1874 Match between the US and Irish teems. The Irish used their MUZZLELOADING Rigby rifles and would have won had not one shooter fired on the wrong target. ......
They did NOT wipe between shots using slugs form 800 to 1000 yards......


Re. the Irish cross shot; one of the American team had a defective cartridge and his bullet never reached the target so I've always regarded the mishaps as cancelling each other out.

The Irish used wads saturated in sperm or neat's-foot oil which pushed any powder residue onto the powder column and effectively wiped the bore clean before seating the paper patched bullet.

David

[ResearchPress]

The info I'm after is for slug guns.

In my .45 cal long range match rifles, after firing a shot I:
load powder
seat a plain card wad over the powder
wipe the bore with a damp patch (I use Birchwood Casey BO Solvent)
wipe the bore with a dry patch
seat paper patch bullet


Some shooters I know wipe (wet patch and dry patch) to the breech after firing, then return to the firing point and cap off to be sure the flash hole is clear, then load powder, wad and bullet.

David