Need some help finding a Discontinued part for my old tractor.

[Muddy Creek Sam]

Howdy all,

I am having no luck finding a rim, or rim and tire for my 1969 Kubota L260P Part number is 32270-11600 for rim and tire and 32270-11644 for just the rim. I cannot afford a new tractor and rim is rusted out around the valve stem and will not hold air anymore even with a tube. If you have a tractor supply that carries Kubota parts, can you check and see if they accidentally have one.

All help would be greatly appreciated,

Sam :D

[anachronism]

http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/copy_of_front_wheel.html

Google the part number, along with the tractor manufacturer, and you'll get lots of hits. There appears to be plenty of aftermarket parts for your tractor.

[Dark Helmet]

If the problem is just around the valve stem hole, have a machine shop weld a piece in.

[Muddy Creek Sam]

http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/copy_of_front_wheel.html

Google the part number, along with the tractor manufacturer, and you'll get lots of hits. There appears to be plenty of aftermarket parts for your tractor.

Thanks, everyone I found a listing for said discontinued not in stock. Will call them on Monday and confirm stock.

Sam :D

[shaune509]

+1 on welding the stem area. sounds like you eather had calciam cloride leak or wheel is used in feedlot conditions. weld in 12ga plate sand smooth, check rest of wheel for rust and paint and use a rubber patch to protect the new tube, should hold for a long time.

[Marvin S]

I had the same problem on my International 2544 and thought about welding a patch in but it was in a difficult area. I found a place that would re-rim it. They cut the welds that attach the center part to the rim and plug welded a new outer to it.

[Lead Fred]

Sam, take it to a welding shop, have them seal up the hole and redrill it else where.

Then use an inner tube and fill it with calcium chloride.

Kubota started off as gray tractors in the US. There isnt a lot of parts for the older ones.

[runfiverun]

when i needed a new gas tank for my 48 allis i actually found the best deal on the evil bay.

[Mk42gunner]

Sam,

I feel your pain on discontinued Kubota parts, my steering box broke on my L175 and I have been looking for parts all day. I am to the point of JB welding the cracks, and spending fifty bucks for new seals and bearings.

Try this place http://www.colemanequip.com/ They say 2-5 day lead time on your parts. Their website says the part numbers have changed.

I have welded and patched several rear tractor rims and redrilled the hole for the valve stem, I haven't done a front one though.

Good luck

Robert

[JIMinPHX]

I would have had a good chance of helping you with a rim if it were for an old Ford, IH or JD, but I don't have any good sources for the Asian stuff.

As has already been said, welding is a good option.

If you use a stick welder, try a 6013 rod, preferable Hobart (yes the brand does make a difference). Go no bigger than 3/32" diameter on the welding wire & use 1/16" if you can find it. 6013 is a mild steel, high deposit rod that doesn't dig too deep into the base metal. They run a lot like bailing wire with an oxy-acetylene torch, which would be my second choice as a welding method.

If you can get the base metal good & clean, then MIG with .025" L-56 wire is a good option, but if salts were present, then MIG is not likely to run well. MIG does NOT like contaminated base metal at all.

I also echo the probability of calcium chloride being the devil behind this dilemma. Loaded tires gave me starts & fits on an old McCormack Deering W-9 back when I used to mess with that stuff on a more regular basis. Loaded tires can be a necessary evil, but they certainly are evil to the surrounding metals.

Another repair option would be to find a local machine shop that can make you up some step washers that will accept an O-ring & pick up a larger area around the valve gland. I've done that before. It can work well, if the base metal a little ways out is flat & still in good condition. I like using 6061 aluminum for making up custom repair parts like that.


Edit:
Wow! You have a 1969 Kubota????
I had no idea that they had been imported into this country that long. The first one that I saw was probably some time in the 80's.

[Bret4207]

I've brazed many a patch into my tire rims. When I get a rim that's got calcium cancer I use a chipping hammer all around it, followed with a heavy, knotted 7" wire wheel on my big hand held grinder (9" Black and Decker from the 50's!!!). Then I rinse it down real good, let it dry thoroughly and give it a couple heavy coats of what ever Rustoleum paint I have on hand. Then I wrap the interior rim surface in heavy duct tape. Since doing this I haven't lost a tube to a rust flake moving and cutting the tube (knock wood). I also use a light lube on the bead when seating, diesel usually. Seems to help.

[dragonrider]

Perhaps you can find a rim from another tractor that take the same size tire and with cutting and welding swap the centers.

[softpoint]

I've made complete wheels for tractors by cutting new plate centers and welding them into different rims, after cutting out the center of the rim, Made front wheels for a Minneapolis Moline out of Chevy truck rims, others.

[Three44s]

A MIG welder using a flux cored wire should handle your rim (if that's the welding style you prefer).

Me, I am a stick man and 6013 in a small size would be my choice.

And I'd drill a new hole in a new spot for your valve stem. Weld up/fill up the wreck zone and don't try to keep the valve stem there.

All the other options given should work such as cutting out the center of another wheel and your corroded one and welding the better rim on your old center.

For a rust limiter, I'd locate a tire shop that uses Rim No Rust ..... they'd likely sell you a handful cheap and you could coat the inside of your rim just before you remount your tire to the rim. I keep a bucket of it at our ranch just for rusty rims with tubless tires mounted that develop bead leaks but at a cost of 50 bucks .... a dozen years ago .... I think a swatch of it would be a better option for you.

The trend lately has been away from "calcium" and towards cast iron wheel weights.

Best of luck

Three 44s

[bigdog454]

Try here.
http://www.tractorshed.com/cgi-bin/photoads/classifieds.cgi