3006guns
03-29-2010, 10:47 AM
I'm familiar with the many articles on the net about building an inexpensive electronic bore cleaner, and, as usual everyone raves about the results. That's fine, but if there's one thing I've learned over the years it's to approach new techniques carefully. Here's why...
I've used electrolysis for derusting steel and iron quite a bit over the last few years. The solution used is simply washing soda and water, then hooking up a low amp battery charger with the negative lead to the rusty part and the positive lead to a sacrificial piece of steel also in the solution. Take note of those connections! It removes the rust and produces a black sludge which is easily washed off. Never reverse the polarity, as the part will begin pitting as the process removes metal and deposits it on the sacrificial piece.......so negative lead on the part to be cleaned ALWAYS.
I rigged up a bore cleaner as described and tried it on a junk Japanese rifle barrel. It removed gobs of rust but since the bore was pitted anyway, I really didn't prove anything.
Okay, so here's my dilemma. If you use the method outlined on the net it tells you to hook the POSITIVE lead to your gun, the reverse of above. I know that if the polarity is reversed the process will begin to etch (pit, remove) the steel, which in a rifle barrel would be disasterous...but might explain why you're advised to not leave it in there for more than 45 minutes. The solution used for barrel cleaning is usually some variant of ammonia/water, but that doesn't affect the action of the polarity, which should begin removing the barrel steel and depositing it on the rod. What bothers me is that the current is so low that the removal process may be so small as to not be noticed.......until one day the barrel starts to take on a "frosty" appearance.
Experiences? Opinions?
I've used electrolysis for derusting steel and iron quite a bit over the last few years. The solution used is simply washing soda and water, then hooking up a low amp battery charger with the negative lead to the rusty part and the positive lead to a sacrificial piece of steel also in the solution. Take note of those connections! It removes the rust and produces a black sludge which is easily washed off. Never reverse the polarity, as the part will begin pitting as the process removes metal and deposits it on the sacrificial piece.......so negative lead on the part to be cleaned ALWAYS.
I rigged up a bore cleaner as described and tried it on a junk Japanese rifle barrel. It removed gobs of rust but since the bore was pitted anyway, I really didn't prove anything.
Okay, so here's my dilemma. If you use the method outlined on the net it tells you to hook the POSITIVE lead to your gun, the reverse of above. I know that if the polarity is reversed the process will begin to etch (pit, remove) the steel, which in a rifle barrel would be disasterous...but might explain why you're advised to not leave it in there for more than 45 minutes. The solution used for barrel cleaning is usually some variant of ammonia/water, but that doesn't affect the action of the polarity, which should begin removing the barrel steel and depositing it on the rod. What bothers me is that the current is so low that the removal process may be so small as to not be noticed.......until one day the barrel starts to take on a "frosty" appearance.
Experiences? Opinions?