Lee Sprue Plate Problem

[Calhunter]

I went to cast some boolits today out of my 158 RNFP lee mold. I noticed the bases were extruding past the top of the mold. With further inspection I noticed the plate was not sitting flush with the top of the mold. Last time I used the mold I didn't notice any problems like this. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and what I should do. I know Lee is known for making equipment that is usually the minimum of what you need but I have only cast a couple hundred boolits with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanx
Calhunter
:castmine:

[BABore]

Could be from a variety of things. Warped plate, top of block galled up, too loose, too tight, fill pressure too high,etc.

Start by seeing if the screw tension is just too loose. The way Lee puts their molds together the sprue plate screw commonly loosens. It should swing freely or with just a bit of pressure. If you can lift the edge a bit, creating a gap, you may need to tighten it just a bit.

If everything seems in order, then remove the screw to see what's going on underneath. Check to see if the plate is truely flat. Lap it flat, or replace it if needed. You may just have lead buildup under the screw area. See if the top of the block is galled up under the screw head area. This is not an easy fix as it will require you to resurface the top of the blocks. It's caused by too tight of a plate and/or lack of lubrication.

If you've found and corrected your problem, it's a wise idea to drill and tap the side of the block for a #8 or #10 set screw. It should be in line and perpendicular with the sprue plate screw hole and used to lock it in place once set.

Lastly, if your sprue plate was just a bit loose you could get a raised sprue from a high pressure fill rate. Can't advise you if your using a bottom pour pot as I ladle cast. If your a ladle caster, don't hold the nipple tight to the sprue hole for so long or at all.

Hope it helps. A Lee mold is a gift that keeps on giving.

[454PB]

Good advise from BABore. I might add that the Lee sprue plate pivot pin is tensioned with a spring loaded wavy washer that can be "adjusted" to increase that tension.

[Bucks Owin]

My "method", if you can call it that, is to keep the Lee blocks well "lubed" by rubbing with a carpenter's pencil. That includes the V areas and pins as well as the top of the blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate. The pivot screw, I just barely touch the (hot) screw head with a little bullet lube now and then when it gets "stiff". The bullet lube will "creep" down the screw enough to keep that part lubed. This burns off after awhile and when it does I lube all areas mentioned again. Be advised that just the barest minimum of lube is enough for the pivot, too much will "creep" under the sprue plate and get into the bullet cavity and raise hell with fillout....

Another tip is to strike the sprue plate sorta "downward" as well as away, so as to keep it in firm contact with the blocks when you cut the sprue....

Hope this helps somewhat,

Dennis

[Calhunter]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I ended up taking the sprue plate off and checking the mold surface and sprue plate. The sprue plate was actually warped. I keep all my molds well lubed and this is a first for me. A little help from a rubber mallet and a few whacks later it sits flush again. Lee makes good molds I own a bunch I just wish he would use better materials for his equipment. Thanks again guys. :drinks:

Calhunter
:castmine:

[georgeld]

Ok, since you guys all have so much knowledge about Lee molds and their faults.

I've seen the picture for the screw stop for the camming action so the blocks don't wear. and now this set screw suggestion.

My question is: Will these change's void Lee's warranty??

I've had a bunch of Lee 6 cav's for years and filled quite a few buckets with bullets from them, and only had a few problems. Pivot pins pulled out twice, can't recall what the other one was.

But, I've mailed them back to Lee sometimes not even a note about the problem because it's obvious.

They've repaired one, and replaced the blocks with brand new one's twice now and never been a charge for it.
Always, N/C.

Second question: on these custom molds you guys have made. What happens when something goes bad with them? Are you stuck? OR will Lee replace them?

Thanks much, am getting quite an education reading your posts.

George

[NVcurmudgeon]

georgeld, it wouldn't bother me much to modify a Lee mould if I thought it was needed. Lee prices are right, and IIRC their warranty only covers half. OTOH, a more expensive mould might slow me down!

[Buckshot]

...........georgeld, good question on the customs. I know there is no problem with Lee taking care of the problem if they cut the cavities off spec, or there was another problem with the mould.

Down the line? A year or a few months, I really cannot say if it came down to supplying new blocks. Custom is custom and they're not stocked items. Lee makes the tooling special for the custom moulds. I don't know, but I doubt they inventory the tools after a custom run is done. If they DID keep the tooling and the problem was with the blocks and required replacement would they setup the tools and run one set of blocks?

...............Buckshot