Unusual 1891 Mauser question

[Otony]

At least it is unusual to me! :mrgreen:

Does the '91 Argentine Mauser have the same barrel shank and thread size as a Swede Mauser? Anything different about the barrel face since the bolts are fairly different as to extractor/ejector?

Came across a very, very clean '91 carbine with a rotted bore, and I know where there are a few clean Swede barrels. Just wondering how much work to lash the two together.

Facing the donor barrel off and re-chambering is not the end of the world, but I wonder if the threading is correct to begin with.

I know one of you out there has other done this or knows what is involved to do it! :wink:

[docone31]

The Swede barrel will drop into a Turk, with the collar milled off.
I am not sure about any others.

[KCSO]

Same thread size as a small ring Mauser. One of the fellows here has one with a Douglas barrel in 7mm. It was a real nice shooter.

[blastit37]

I put a new 6.5x55 barrel on a sporterized 91 carbine. The only problem is that the 91 action is longer than the Swede so you have to machine the face of the action back to get the barrel to headspace. When doing this, you will find a pin sticking in the side of the receiver right where the back of the swede barrel needs to go. I took a sharp chisel and clipped it off flush. I don't have any idea what the pin is for. You will have to fiddle with the guides in the magazine to fit the 6.5x55 brass but it will work out good in the end. The bolt face and extractor work good. I think you can still get the new carbine barrels from Sarco or Samco, I get them mixed up. I used a FN type carbine sight like found on the Columbian 1950 carbine. By the way, the 91 barrel is the hardest to remove of any Mauser. Best start by soaking for 1 week with Kroll oil. It will desolve whaterer that hardened mess they put them in with is.
All in all, a very nice conversion.

[Dutchman]

The actual situation is that the 91 Argentine has a longer threaded barrel shank than the 93/95/96 Mausers.

That pin you chiseled off is there expressly to insure the extractor spring stays in place when the bolt is locked. Your carbine is apparently an early one as that feature was eliminated later. It was an expedient method of fixing a problem that came up. I wouldn't recommend removing that pin.

Springfield Sporters in Pennsylvania at one time had spare 91 carbine barrels. I think it would be more prudent to check out Sarco for even a used barrel.

Dutch

[blastit37]

Yes, as I said, you have to shorten the front of the receiver about .100 inch. It is not possible to leave the pin in place because the Swede barrel will run into it and not seat. The extractor works just fine with the 6.5x55 brass and the pin gone. This is from experience, not speculation. Thanks for the function of the pin.

[Otony]

Could not the shoulder of a Swede barrel be moved forward? I searched around and discovered the shank length difference is .07, which seems as though it could be removed without too much trouble.

P.S., Springfield Sports shows no barrels in stock, at least on their somewhat vaguely updated on-line list. for some reason, my ISP will not visit the Sarco site. If someone can see it and advise on Swede barrels I would be very grateful.

Thanks to all for the assistance thus far.

[blastit37]

SARCO P/N MSR 254, $74.95, http://www.sarcoinc.com/mauser.html#2. Sorry, don't know to make a link.
Woops I guess I do.

[KCSO]

Just a quick note if you are reading this and don't have a spare extractor you need to order one now while they are in stock. This is the only 91 mauser part that i see broken on a regular basis.

[Otony]

I have TWO spare extractors! [smilie=1:

[Otony]

SARCO P/N MSR 254, $74.95, http://www.sarcoinc.com/mauser.html#2. Sorry, don't know to make a link.
Woops I guess I do.

Huh! That opened right up for me. I wonder why it wouldn't get there from here when I tried the main page?

In any case, thank you sir!

[NoDakJak]

I would say that the barrels may be rather hard to remove from Model 91 recievers. Oh yeah!!! I have a ruined reciever and barrel in my collection that I found in a box of gun parts that I bought at an auction. I don't know if this reciever is typical or not but it appears to be very soft. When Bubba horsed the barrel off a goodly portion of the threads stripped out of the reciever and are still firmly stuck in the barrel threads. Good old Bubba also managed to twist the reciever about thirty degrees. I would expect the side rails to break rather than to twist this much on later model Mausers.
I have owned and shot several Model 91s and were very happy with them but never did any smithing on them so can only comment on this one reciever. Neil

[357maximum]

I would say that the barrels may be rather hard to remove from Model 91 recievers. Oh yeah!!! I have a ruined reciever and barrel in my collection that I found in a box of gun parts that I bought at an auction. I don't know if this reciever is typical or not but it appears to be very soft. When Bubba horsed the barrel off a goodly portion of the threads stripped out of the reciever and are still firmly stuck in the barrel threads. Good old Bubba also managed to twist the reciever about thirty degrees. I would expect the side rails to break rather than to twist this much on later model Mausers.
I have owned and shot several Model 91s and were very happy with them but never did any smithing on them so can only comment on this one reciever. Neil

I ran across an 1893 mauser barrel/receiver in exactly the same situation. I pawned it off on a feller that cuts em down shorter and makes em into lower pressure rounds that JPM never intended. Mine had pipe wrench marks on it though for an added bonus. Apparently some of these old mausers are quite tough and yet mallable.....might be what makes em work so well.....just like a good castboolit does when used in HV/HP applications where you still want some give when it hits things meant for the freezer.