Newb here with ? about mold lube

[youngwilliam]

Hey all,
Been lurking here for awhile now and decided to join. I have been reloading now for about 2 years, mostly fmj and plated.
I bought some 200 gr. lswc for my 1911's and thought that it would be cool to cast my own.
Stumbled onto this site, and glad I did. I can't believe all of the casting knowledge here.
Anyway, picked about 7 gallons of wheel weights the other day and almost ready to smelt them down.
I have collected about everything I need to smelt and cast except a pot to smelt in and a suitable mold lube. I have ordered some bullplate, but it might be awhile before i get it.
What is a good lube, that is readily available that will get me by until the bull plate gets here?
Thanks in advance for any tips.

[mooman76]

WD40 will work in a pinch or a high temp lube.

[Casting Timmy]

I use a crayon to lube my molds. They're cheap and they work.

Smoke the inside cavities and then after the mold is up to temp, lightly touch the crayon to the mold at the joints and you're ready to go.

[Edubya]

Depends. Not your adult diapers, but it depends on the type of mould. If it's a Lee, or aluminum, follow their instructions and use wax. You can also, do as many of us have done, use Kano Kroil. Just be careful that you do not get any lube in the mould cavities.
EW

[462]

youngwilliam,
First thing you need to do is disassemble and thoroughly clean the mould. Spray brake parts cleaner followed by Dawn dishsoap and hot water, works for me. When reassembling, I apply anti-sieze to all the screws and the bottom of the sprue plate. If the mould is a Lee, read the Leementing sticky. I don't find a need to smoke any of my moulds. To get your boolits to "fall" out of the mould, read the Kroil sticky.

[Springfield]

Nothing works like Bullplate. If you need some now send me your address and I will send you enough to last for a few months. Don't even waste your time with anything else, especially if it is an aluminum LEE mould. Lots of other stuff works, sorta, but nothing works well like Bullplate. I hand cast commercially and I've tried everything, that's why I have 14 bottles of Bullplate in a drawer and one on the casting bench.

[JIMinPHX]

Hi Temp grease from the auto parts store will get you by until the Bullplate arrives.

Be sure to lube well under the sprue plate, especially in the area where it pivots around the screw. Don't use too much on the alignment pins.

[shotman]

Kroil is the best for the inside of the mold. Bulls lube is good for the sprut hinge but dont get it inside the cavity

[youngwilliam]

Thanks for the replies.

I do have some Kroil. I will try that.

Springfield, thanks for your generous offer, I will send a PM.

To all others, thanks again.

Bill

[blackthorn]

For a smelting pot:
If you want to melt WW, or any other dirty scrap, over a wood fire, (works on a turkey fry set-up too) get an old 20lb propane tank (usually free), screw out the valve, fill the tank with water and use a hand held “angle” grinder to cut a piece (3 or 4 inches) out of the top around the valve. Now that you have the danger of an explosion taken care of, drain the water, lay the tank on its side and cut it off as close to the top "shoulder" as possible. Set the "pot" up solidly and build your fire around it. This set up not only works with the wood fire; it gives you a free pot that can be used on your turkey fryer when you can afford one! This pot will hold WAY more lead than you can lift so be prepared to "dip" it out.

Another option is if you have a "tiger torch" or even a good "weed burner": take four building blocks and set them on the ground leaving an opening where the ends of the blocks meet. Place a cast (or steel) 45 degree pipe "elbow" in the opening. Place your pot full of scrap lead on the blocks over the top opening of the elbow, fire up your torch and lay it in the lower end of the elbow.

Hope this helps! Have a great day.