Making GC

[Sven Dufva]

Hello!
I have read that some of you make your own gas checks. Does it work well?
Do somebody no some cheap die for produce GC?
I have an ide of making GC off hard wax paper, have sombody already tryed it?

[Machado]

Styrofoam gas checks seem to work well. Bell and de-burr a case until mouth is sharp, drill a hole through the primer pocket such that you can push a wooden dowel through it, twirl case against styrofoam tray and bingo, there's your gas check. When case is full push checks out shoving dowel through primer pocket.

[35remington]

In your attempts to produce something that duplicates the effect of a metal gascheck, always ensure that the product of your labors does not fall off the base of the bullet.

Airspace between your pseudo-check and the bullet is a bad thing.

However, having the quasi-check remain on the bullet may also spoil accuracy. Only way to know is to try it, and you may wish to remove lubricant from the base of the bullet so it does NOT stick.

A check of metal may be fabricated out of other materials and affixed to the base of the bullet. Do a search on this board; some of the other members have devised their own methods. Send 'em a PM.

Various fillers and wax wads will help reduce or eliminate gascutting of the bullet, but seem to have a velocity limit lower than a proper metal check.

[Leftoverdj]

I never had much luck with the waxes, and they can kill the load in hot weather, probably not a problem in northern Sweden. A substantial column of cornmeal filler worked well in a .45-70 I once owned, but not in my current ones.

Wads cut from discarded offset printing blankets show some promise, but are only suitable for straightwall or long necked cases. The wad needs to be far enough inside the neck so you don't have to worry about it working loose. I would not expect these wads to work with a GC design bullet, but they do add several hundred fps to the accurate velocity of PB bullets. Since the blankets are cloth backed neoprene, sticking does not seem to be a problem with the cloth against the base of the bullet.

I've only piddled with this out of curiosity. It's a lot easier for me to buy gas checks.

[Bucks Owin]

Seems to me there was a thread involving making GCs from aluminum cans somewhere...

Maybe it was on a different forum....

Dennis

(One thing I'm sure of, I'm tired of paying more for a lousy GC than I do for a primer! Something wrong with that picture....)

[Dale53]

The tools for making your own gas checks are extremely expensive. Couple that with the serious amounts of time involved and I lost all interest in pursuing that.

What I HAVE done, however, is limit my gas checks to areas that I really need them. I DON'T need them on any pistol or revolver laods including my magnums. Of course, I consider my TC Contenders to be "short rifles" and you may find me using them there (.221 Fireball, .30 Carbine, etc). I use them in rifles where necessary. However, where they are not needed I do NOT use them. Saves a world of time and I have been fortunate to have few accuracy problems. Leading has never been a problem for me, so I have little knowledge of how to remove lead, etc. I tend to observe closely when using a new toy, to see where the "edge" is. I try never to exceed the "edge" (the place where accuracy leaves and leading starts). Since accuracy almost always leaves before leading starts, it is not so hard to "slide up to the edge"...[smilie=1:

Of course, one of these days I will have to eat my words (words like "absolute", "never", and "No problem for me"etc:mrgreen:). Until then, I will just use plain base when I can and buy commercial checks when I need them.

Dale53

[Bucks Owin]

I have discovered that shooting a GC boolit "barefoot" seems to work OK with the right alloy. At least with "some" bullets like the .44 cal RCBS 225 gr when shot at around 1200 fps...

I haven't tried to really push on this bullet without a GC so I don't know how it would work at 1500 fps, guess I'll have to try it some time. (When I load it "to the max" I've always used a GC on it)

I think that there's a correlation in there somewhere between pressure and velocity and that velocity alone doesn't determine the need for a gascheck....

(But I've been wrong before!) :D

FWIW,

Dennis

[Buckshot]

.............Starmetal made a set of tools for punching out GC's from aluminum flashing. It's over on the "Special Projects" forum. The tools are fairly simple, as is the process. The issue is that it IS a 'One at a Time' proposition. I suppose if you did it while sitting in front of the idiot box it would make your TV watching time not such a worthless endeavor.

..............Buckshot

[StarMetal]

Dennis

I think gaschecked bullets shot without the check do ok in handguns, but fail more so in rifles.

Joe

[Sven Dufva]

Thanks for your replys.
I use about 8000 GC a year and here in Sweden the price will be in store 40 to 45 US $ for 1000(Hornady).
I dont think it is so isy make 1000 with a hand die. Maybe it better to find cheeper brands.
In Sweden i have seen rcbs and hornady gc, is it more factorys who produce gc in US?

[BruceB]

My experience is much the same as Joe stated. My .38/.357 revolvers are quite happy shooting the 358156 boolit without the gaschecks, and my .44s did likewise with 429244 without the checks. Our peestols have munched down on many thousands so-loaded over the years. These days, I mostly load RCBS 38-150 and 44-250 KT, both being plain-base designs. I do have a 4-cavity 358156, so the temptation to cast a BUNCH of 358156 boolits is still there.

On a direct-comparison test with a .30-06 rifle a couple years ago, a very moderate-speed 311291 load grouped five in 1.5" WITH gaschecks, and well over a foot for five rounds WITHOUT gaschecks...same load, same day, same everything except the GC. I don't need much more in the way of a hint!

[StarMetal]

Sven,

Use to be Lyman made their own and Hornady made theirs and there weren't any RCBS ones. Now it's said that Hornayd makes them all. The forum had a group buy on Gator Checks while back and they are made by someone entirely different. They will have the group buy again sometime and maybe you can get in on it.

Corbin makes some gascheck tools that are pretty darn good, but also pretty expensive. The way they are set up for press use I believe they will chop them out pretty fast.

Joe

[Bucks Owin]

Dennis

I think gaschecked bullets shot without the check do ok in handguns, but fail more so in rifles.

Joe

I'm sure that's true. I was referring to HG loads....
And even with .357 loads I've had some problems with barefoot boolits. Bigger bores seem more "tolerant"...

I haven't "enjoyed" shooting any rifle loads yet....(soon!) :D I'm still rounding up molds, dies, GCs etc...

Dennis

[Buckshot]

Thanks for your replys.
I use about 8000 GC a year and here in Sweden the price will be in store 40 to 45 US $ for 1000(Hornady).
I dont think it is so isy make 1000 with a hand die. Maybe it better to find cheeper brands.
In Sweden i have seen rcbs and hornady gc, is it more factorys who produce gc in US?

...............Heck if the exchange rate were favorable, a couple thousand (loose in a plastic bag) could go in the smaller USPS International flat rate envelope for US$4.50. Label the customs declaration as metal punch scrap.

.................Buckshot

[Four Fingers of Death]

I remember reading an article in an aussie gunmag years ago and a guy used to spray boolits with Birchwood Casey Polyurethane Stock Finish, then turn them over and spray the bases. I never got around to trying it. It would be similar to the plastic/telfon commercial cast boolits on sale in Australia I suppose.

I must try it in the 1911 as you can weight the bbl separately and determine if their is any build up, etc. Mick.

[StarMetal]

Mick,

I don't thing the gascheck idea is as much for protectiing the base of the bullet, but to seal off the gas from trying to get past the bullet. Long time ago one of the gunrags recommended cuting disks from the plastic lids of coffee cans for handgun bullets. I tried it and the barrel seemed alittle cleaner, but not enough worth the effort. I believe it's the edge of the bullet base that you have to protect or seal, not any of base more toward the center of the bullet.

Joe

[grumpy one]

...............Heck if the exchange rate were favorable, a couple thousand (loose in a plastic bag) could go in the smaller USPS International flat rate envelope for US$4.50. Label the customs declaration as metal punch scrap.

.................Buckshot

I've imported about 14,000 30 caliber gas checks in the past year using those small Global Priority envelopes, spread over several ebay deals. The customs declarations said "gas checks", and Australian customs didn't get itself involved. We do have the advantage that the regulations here state what is an "ammunition component", and the list does not include gas checks, so customs is cool. I can import bullets, jacketed or otherwise, and brass, but I have to get a permit from my local police, which I then send to customs. They grab the bullets/brass when they arrive, match them against my permit, and forward them to me. No great hassle involved, though it takes several weeks to go through all the motions so I tend to apply for a fair-sized batch and let customs hold them until the whole permit is filled over several shipments. Naturally primers, powder and loaded ammunition can't be imported through the mail system, for safety reasons.

Geoff

[Sven Dufva]

I have tried to use bullets designed for no gc but after aproximate 100 rounds the accurate will end. This happends both 357mag 44mag.
357 mag,Bullet: saeco lino 180 grain lubed with Felix, Powder: vv N110 14,3 grain
Gun S&W 686 6"
44 mag, Bullet: lino 240 grain lubed with Felix Powder vv N110 20,5 to 21,5 grain
Gun S&W 629 83/8"

I have not use cronograf for this loads. But i think it will go pretty fast, too hot loads for no gc. What do you think?
I need the speed for the bullet tractory. In the competision we shot on targets from 20 to 200 yards. Targets are placed in nature and you dont no the distance.

[castalott]

Aluminium gaschecks aren't hard to make and work fine for high power loads. I have only made 30 cal. checks. I don't have time right now but will post some piks....

[drinks]

Sven;
Watch for the next group buy on gas checks and order as many as you can afford, I got 14,000 for about $150, they were from .22 to .45.

[Sven Dufva]

Thanks for tips.

[hopper_64]

Thanks for your replys.
I use about 8000 GC a year and here in Sweden the price will be in store 40 to 45 US $ for 1000(Hornady).
I dont think it is so isy make 1000 with a hand die. Maybe it better to find cheeper brands.
In Sweden i have seen rcbs and hornady gc, is it more factorys who produce gc in US?

Hi!
I bought gaschecks on E-bay a few months back, don't remember exact price but it was a hole lot cheaper than here in Sweden.

Jocke

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

Yah! you got to be creative about shipping things to some countries. My late friend Roger Johnston sent six 6mm barrels to Norma and beat the tax by labelling them "internally threaded, high helix, thickwall tubing". I kid you not! Worked.
My personal experience with poly wads is mostly in the black powder end of things. They work well to seal the barrel and protect the bases of 20:1 alloy PB bullets.
Many use cardstock or milk carton or tablet backing. My schuetzen rifles utilize the green krinkle foam florists use for a base to plug flower stems in. I cut it 1/4" thick and just cut wads. You can try placing them over the case mouth and pushing down to experiment. It is open cell and the ejecta mas weight is too low to weigh.

regards,

Rich

[Sven Dufva]

Thanks for the tips.

[cast367]

Has anyone expirience in brass plate for making gaschecks??
soda cans are very thin and is metal .
I have tryed brass , but not satisfyed about result.

Leo

[30CAL-TEXAN]

Has anyone expirience in brass plate for making gaschecks??
soda cans are very thin and is metal .
I have tryed brass , but not satisfyed about result.

Leo

I have one of Pat Marlin's checkmaker dies and it works great!

So far I have only been using Aluminum flashing but I have some brass shim stock that I plan on trying one of these days.

[Jim Sheldon]

I have one of Pat Marlin's checkmaker dies and it works great!

So far I have only been using Aluminum flashing but I have some brass shim stock that I plan on trying one of these days.

I also have one of Pat's Checkmaker dies (32 caliber/8mm) and I did try some 5 thousandths (.005) brass shim stock. It formed them okay, but the cup edges with material that thin tend to come out looking like bottle caps. Other than the cosmetics, this doesn't seem to be a problem as these checks crimp onto the boolits and stay there just fine.

I think in most countries that brass would be a lot more expensive to use than aluminum for making gas checks though.

I installed them on some cast 205 grain .323 boolits and they shot well. The accuracy was only very slightly less than that I got with the .014 aluminum flashing which seems to be where the die set works best for me. I was pushing the bullets to approximately 1850 FPS out of a 98K Mauser.

[cast367]

dghjftyuiklhuiew

[cast367]

There was something wrong
leo367

[30CAL-TEXAN]

I also have one of Pat's Checkmaker dies (32 caliber/8mm) and I did try some 5 thousandths (.005) brass shim stock. It formed them okay, but the cup edges with material that thin tend to come out looking like bottle caps. Other than the cosmetics, this doesn't seem to be a problem as these checks crimp onto the boolits and stay there just fine.

I think in most countries that brass would be a lot more expensive to use than aluminum for making gas checks though.

I installed them on some cast 205 grain .323 boolits and they shot well. The accuracy was only very slightly less than that I got with the .014 aluminum flashing which seems to be where the die set works best for me. I was pushing the bullets to approximately 1850 FPS out of a 98K Mauser.

Jim,

I too have found that the .014 alum produces that best results for me.

The brass shim that I am experimenting with is scraps from work so there is no real cost to me but I think you are correct about the cost of the shims being more than the aluminum (here in the states at least).

From what I hear, 1K .30cal gas checks go for about 40 euro (about $50) in Holland.:holysheep

If that is the case and there is even a marginally cheap source of brass I think I would be all over it.

[Curly1]

I never had much luck with the waxes, and they can kill the load in hot weather, probably not a problem in northern Sweden. A substantial column of cornmeal filler worked well in a .45-70 I once owned, but not in my current ones.

Wads cut from discarded offset printing blankets show some promise, but are only suitable for straightwall or long necked cases. The wad needs to be far enough inside the neck so you don't have to worry about it working loose. I would not expect these wads to work with a GC design bullet, but they do add several hundred fps to the accurate velocity of PB bullets. Since the blankets are cloth backed neoprene, sticking does not seem to be a problem with the cloth against the base of the bullet.

I've only piddled with this out of curiosity. It's a lot easier for me to buy gas checks.

I have been loading 30 to 1 cast boolits with BP lube and with cornmeal to fill the airgap in my Ruger #3 with good results(I do see better accuracy with a full case out of my #3). If I understand your post, the cornmeal may also act as a GC so I could try some "hotter" loads in my rifle, as long as there are no other signs of preassure of course?