Lee Pro 1000 - How To Make Run Smoothly

[Cowboy T]

Howdy folks,

I figured my first post here might be of some help to Lee Pro 1000 owners or those considering buying the press. I have two of them, and they work just great for me.

Last month, I finished a series of videos showing how to make Lee Pro 1000's run nearly as smooth as Teflon on wet ice. Basically, it's a strip/clean/reassembly. It takes me about an hour to do this procedure, and your press will purr like a kitten afterwards. The procedure should be done every 3,500 rounds or so.

This is the key to making the Pro 1000 work well--keeping it clean. Hey, you clean your gun, don't you? Well, same for your press, just way less often.

The videos are available here, for free download. The example press is a .38Spl/.357M model, but the same procedure applies to all Pro 1000's.

http://www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com/

So, for those of you who have had problems with them, especially the PRIMER FEED MECHANISM, don't give up on it just yet. Watch the videos, and if you still don't want your press anymore, PM me. I'll gladly take it off yer hands. And I won't even charge ya! :-)

Hopefully this series helps some folks.

- Cowboy T

[plus1hdcp]

Welcome to the site and thanks for posting the info for the Pro 1000.

[Recluse]

The videos are available here, for free download. The example press is a .38Spl/.357M model, but the same procedure applies to all Pro 1000's.

http://www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com/

Can't get your link to work.

Forbidden

You don't have permission to access / on this server.

:coffee:

[Cowboy T]

Sorry about that. Made a stupid boo-boo w/ file permissions on the server last night. [smilie=b:

Fixed now.

[geargnasher]

Thanks, I'll check it out as I'm considering buying one. I've watched a series of home videos on Loadmaster.com, they almost have me convinced it's a fine machine. I'm familiar with fitting, finishing, and fine-tuning lee's products (expecially the poorly moulded plastic ones) so it should be no big deal.

Gear

[deerslayer]

I do not know about the loadmaster but the pro 1000 can be made to work well i can usually maintain around 300-400 roumds an hour on mine if i want to after it is set up properly there are tips out there that help. The most important thing I learned to help with mine was painting a reference mark on the back left support so you know when the press is all the way down and therefore the primer is seated this will eliminate alot of primer reworks. Also slow down on the way down thanks Nathan

[Frozone]

I make a few mods to the bullet feeder that keep it running smooth. It was problematic at best before. The mods make it work 100 percent of the time.

[deerslayer]

Howdy folks,



The videos are available here, for free download. The example press is a .38Spl/.357M model, but the same procedure applies to all Pro 1000's.

http://www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com/

So, for those of you who have had problems with them, especially the PRIMER FEED MECHANISM, don't give up on it just yet. Watch the videos, and if you still don't want your press anymore, PM me. I'll gladly take it off yer hands. And I won't even charge ya! :-)

Hopefully this series helps some folks.

- Cowboy T

I would love to watch your videos without downloading additional stuff will they be on youtube or any other format anytime soon???

[Cowboy T]

I would love to watch your videos without downloading additional stuff will they be on youtube or any other format anytime soon???

Excellent question. If your Firefox browser is fairly recent, that'll play 'em directly without any further downloads. That's how I do it.

[trickyasafox]

Great videos, I watched em all. I've been running some pro 1000s for a few years and agree totally- they really are the only true budget option for progressive reloading. I wish lee would make a 'pro 1000 plus' which combined the 4 stage turret with a new shellplate so we could get another station, but I doubt that will ever happen.

[Cowboy T]

Trickyasafox, I agree 100% with you. Matter of fact, my "dream" progressive press from Lee would be a 4-hole "Classic Pro 1000" built on the same body as the Classic Turret. Such a press would sell like hotcakes. However, that would cannibalize sales of the Loadmaster, so we'll never see that.

[357shooter]

Saw the video's prior to buying a 1000 and they helped a ton. Very well done! I've now loaded a couple of thousand rounds and absolutely love loading with it.

I did learn that operating the lever smoothly is important. Also that by fine tuning the indexing to keep the primer from hitting the shell carrier prevents almost all problems (if the plate is advancing just a bit to far, turn the screw left 1/8 turn and retry). Also found that setting the die depths for the back 2 dies should be done with shells in the 3 slots. Any rounds that are expanded/loaded or seated/crimped without a case in all 3 positions are not used.

The primer system is working great and I have far fewer problems than when loading with the Turret w/auto index (which wouldn't seat hard primers). Also the 1000 detects raised primers and doesn't eject them, a really nice feature.

The prior press was a 4 station, so I used the FCD from day 1. However I found that when loading for autoloaders that 3 stages worked better, contrary to popular opinion. So I had a blank hole in the 4 station and sold my FCD's. The seating depth and crimp are more consistent when performing both with one die, in my experience.

That's what helped me pick the 1000 instead of the Loadmaster. I suspect adding a 4th station would provide to much resistance for the frame of the 1000 which is why the LM is so much beefier.

Thinking of getting another 1000 frame as I have all the parts to swap between calibers so the incremental cost is pretty low. It would be nice to have it all ready to load all the time in either caliber.

Time to go load some 45 ACP, ttyl.

[looseprojectile]

I was not smart enough to make mine run.
I gave it back to the man that gave it to me.
Bought a Lee Classic Turret press and accessories and never looked back.
I'm happy now.

Life is good

[Westwindmike]

I never could make mine run for more than 20-30 rounds. I sold it cheap and bought a Dillon 550. I'm very happy with it.

[Nate1778]

Don't own the 1000, but to those posting about the Loadmaster it can be a very efficient and effective press. If your a gadget guy and can follow online instructions, and have no problem tinkering you should be good to go on it. I will also say once its set up it runs like a top. I have not had to "constantly tinker" with it.

[Cowboy T]

I was not smart enough to make mine run.
I gave it back to the man that gave it to me.
Bought a Lee Classic Turret press and accessories and never looked back.
I'm happy now.

Life is good

No, no, that's a great choice, too. I also have a Classic Turret, and I love it. That thing's built like a tank. When I start loading for rifle calibers, that's what I'm going to use. If someone were going to buy only *one* press in his/her lifetime (yeah, right, I know, but let's just say), that'd be the one I'd suggest.

[abunaitoo]

I've fiddled with the primer system on mines for as long as I've had it.
Only sure fix I've found for it is to remove the priming system and prime the cases before loading.
Works great and no more priming problems.

I use mine mostly for .30 Carbine and .223.
Used to load 45acp, but a friend gave me a Dillion SDB, so I use that now.

[357shooter]

Guess I'm a lucky one with the priming system. I've learned to make sure it starts with no primer already fed. (sometimes I mess with things and if there was one fed already, the first case tries to feed another. Than you've gotta clear it and restart clean.)

When making a caliber change clean the priming feed with a Q-tip and some mineral spirits. Takes about 30 seconds total time.

Then primers load until thet are emptied from the tray and show a 1 inch gap in the top of the feed, with no primer feed problems. Having a 100% emptied tray makes it easy to refill the primers.

Gotta admit though, the pro auto-disk feeder has caused issues with small charges no matter what powder is used. After experimenting, the basic spring/returned auto-disk works much more consistently across 20 loads or more. Adding the swivel to the auto-disk ruins it. Adding the bigger hopper with on-off also ruins it. Either one gives a wide set of loads when the total charge is below 3 grains. Using both was horrible. YMMV (this was true on my old Turret press so it's not related to the 1000, it's a pro-disk thing/swivel thing that I evidently can't deal with)

[Cowboy T]

The lowest charge I've ever used is 3.3 grains Bullseye when I was working up my powder-puff .38 Spl load. That seemed to work fine (I'm using the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure).

It might also depend on which powders you're using. Haven't tried any yet, but I'm told that very flaky or very extruded powders don't do as well in Lee's disk-based powder measures. But Bullseye, Titegroup, Herc 2400, and Clays all work great.

[357shooter]

The lowest charge I've ever used is 3.3 grains Bullseye when I was working up my powder-puff .38 Spl load. That seemed to work fine (I'm using the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure).

It might also depend on which powders you're using. Haven't tried any yet, but I'm told that very flaky or very extruded powders don't do as well in Lee's disk-based powder measures. But Bullseye, Titegroup, Herc 2400, and Clays all work great.When going below 3 grains is when I hit problems. The basic auto-disk works great for me with all the powders I use including 700x which is a flake. Had problems with it (700x), HP-38 and some others with the pro, so it's sitting on a shelf. No problems since switching.

I did do some testing, after adding the swivel to the basic unit the consistency dropped off. After adding the pro-hopper to the basic unit consistency dropped off. The two of them together magnified it. Again, this is only with loads lighter than 3 grains. Actually lighter than 2.9 to be really precise.

[deerslayer]

When going below 3 grains is when I hit problems. The basic auto-disk works great for me with all the powders I use including 700x which is a flake. Had problems with it (700x), HP-38 and some others with the pro, so it's sitting on a shelf. No problems since switching.

I did do some testing, after adding the swivel to the basic unit the consistency dropped off. After adding the pro-hopper to the basic unit consistency dropped off. The two of them together magnified it. Again, this is only with loads lighter than 3 grains. Actually lighter than 2.9 to be really precise.

What are you loading below 3 grains so much that you would want to use a progressive? Aren't most charges that small typically for a very small concealed carry pistol.:confused:

[hunter64]

The major flaw with the Lee 1000 is you can not see that there is powder in the case because it is at the back of the rotation. If they had station 1 at the 3 O'clock postion and have the bullet seater right in front of you and dropping loaded rounds at the 5 O 'clock position there would be no problem.

Once you have had a squib load it scares the hell out of you, lucky I was right beside my son when it happened with the .44 Mag revolver and prevented an accident. With an auto it won't cycle so it kind of gives you a second chance.

For the Lee 1000 I have come up with a system to get rid of missed charges, missed primers, crooked primers in cases etc. a bit more work but it ends up to be about the same amount of time. Missed primer and a machine full of powder and you have the next 15-30 minutes stripping and cleaning ahead of you till the next time it happens.

1. Have a die head set up with station 1 as normal and only flaring the case in station 2, no die in station 3.
2. Once I have all my cases primed and flared I then change to another die head with the seater die and a crimping die.
3. Charge all my cases with my RCBS powder measure and visually inspect each case and put a bullet on top.
4. Feed them in one at a time for seating and crimping.

Sounds like a lot of extra work but I never have to worry about a missed charge or a primer not being seated correctly and having to strip the machine to clear all the powder out of it.

Someday I will get a Hornady or Dillon press but having to spend $2400.00-2800.00 (650 with needed conversion kits) is not that appealing to me right now for the amount that I shoot.

I usually will do case prep one saturday in the winter where all I do is prime and flare and then put the ready to go cases away till the spring when I need to reload. When I do start to reload I can usually get 350-400 an hour out no problem.

[Recluse]

What are you loading below 3 grains so much that you would want to use a progressive? Aren't most charges that small typically for a very small concealed carry pistol.:confused:

Standard 148LWC loads--2.7 grains of Bullseye.

:coffee:

[357shooter]

What are you loading below 3 grains so much that you would want to use a progressive? Aren't most charges that small typically for a very small concealed carry pistol.:confused:
I think someone responded, but my standard plinking and target load for 38 special is 105 SWC with 2.6 of 700X & 148 WC with 2.2 of 700X, Bullseye and HP-38 are also very light for these two bullets.

I shoot a bunch of them every month, close to 1,000 so the progressive comes in handy.

My target load for 45 ACP is 2.9 of 700X, which worked fairly well with the pro-disk. Larger loads worked flawlessly even the pro.

All of these small 38 special loads work just fine with the standard spring powered non-swiveled auto-disk with all the powders mentioned. There is basically no variation in the loads. If there's powder in the hopper, there's powder in the case unless I short-stroke the press. Let that case cycle w/o a bullet and keep loading.

[Cowboy T]

Now, that is interesting. I plan to develop a .38 Spl load with Clays, and the amounts I try will be between 2.5 and 3.5gr with the 105gr LSWC. It's entirely possible that my "best" load could be below 3.0gr. Since all I have are Pro Auto-Disk's, I'll watch out for this. Thanks for the heads-up.

[357shooter]

Now, that is interesting. I plan to develop a .38 Spl load with Clays, and the amounts I try will be between 2.5 and 3.5gr with the 105gr LSWC. It's entirely possible that my "best" load could be below 3.0gr. Since all I have are Pro Auto-Disk's, I'll watch out for this. Thanks for the heads-up.The micro disk works well w/HP-38 and Clays. One reason I like the 700X is it's bulky. In my disks (the disks are the same on the pro and standard) the .37 is 2.6 grains and the .40 is 2.8 grains. For full 45 ACP loads I use disk .61 for 4.6 grains. (some disks have a hole that's way off so don't assume yours is the same)

It gives finer control via smaller weight changes with each change in disk size than other powders. Course, maybe that's why I need the standard auto-disk setup...

Let me know if the pro-disk works for you if you try it in the small loads. The test is shooting 100 rounds and see how consistent they are. ttyl

ADDED LATER: Checked my records and found that the .32 disk dropped 2.1 gr of Clays, and 3.5 grains of HP-38. You should be good with Clays.

[35remington]

The Pro Auto Disk or regular Auto Disk does not work with large flake powders in amounts of approximately 3 to 3.5 grains or less......it bridges in the charge hole and throws light charges. Found this out when loading for my 25-20 and 38 Spl and 380 with small charges of large flake powder like Red Dot, Unique and 700X.

Bullseye, due to its smaller granules, works just fine.

The issue is the small size of the round cavity, which causes the bridging. I've since developed a rule not to use below 3.5 grains of the large flake powders through the Auto Disks or Pro and it's worked out well. When needing to go below this amount for small calibers choose a ball or small flake powder to meter properly.

[357shooter]

The Pro Auto Disk or regular Auto Disk does not work with large flake powders in amounts of approximately 3 to 3.5 grains or less......it bridges in the charge hole and throws light charges. Found this out when loading for my 25-20 and 38 Spl and 380 with small charges of large flake powder like Red Dot, Unique and 700X.

Bullseye, due to its smaller granules, works just fine.

The issue is the small size of the round cavity, which causes the bridging. I've since developed a rule not to use below 3.5 grains of the large flake powders through the Auto Disks or Pro and it's worked out well. When needing to go below this amount for small calibers choose a ball or small flake powder to meter properly.I've actually been having great success w/700x using the standard auto-disk down to 2.2 grains (never tried less than that). If I add either the swivel base or the pro hopper it doesn't work. Had the same results with HP-38 and Unique as well. YMMV

ADDED LATER: After thinking about it, the standard-disk setup works well with all these powders to very small loads but only when the expander die is not more than 1/4 turn out. Things get iffy with adjusted out further than that. Since the bullets are cast lead and a bit bigger the extra flare is needed anyway.

[35remington]

The determining factor is how much vibration the press receives. If it doesn't move much during the loading step, the small diameter of the smaller cavities will bridge. At the light charge weights about 1 charge in 50 or 60 will be a squib.

If you tap or bump the measure between throws, the cavity will fill. It will also throw a slightly heavier charge than when it's allowed to fill without bumping the measure.

For consistency's sake, I don't tap or bump the measure when it's on the press.

Several others here have mentioned the same problems occur, which is why I'm commenting as I am.

Just personal preference and a way to avoid problems .

[Cowboy T]

There's a guy named Ammosmith who is working on a review of the Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure. Apparently his results with flaky powders and the smaller cavities are similar to what I'm seeing posted here. I think he's going to eventually do a video of this.

prgallo's and 35remington's posts are very interesting. Note the somewhat different results in each case. Dunno about the Auto Disk, but the Pro Auto Disk can be "turned off" by twisting the hopper and "turned on" the same way. Is there any possibility that the hopper is or isn't getting "turned on" all the way? Depending on the cavity size, I could see bridging possibly happening.

BTW, prgallo, thanks for the check on Clays. Still going to double-check myself, of course, just to be safe.

[357shooter]

Maybe the hopper isn't opening all the way. The pro hopper works for me with larger disks though so I'm not sure why I have that problem.

The problem with the swivels has happened with 3 different swivels on the Pro 1000 and on the Turret press too.

I think my approach of not backing out the expanding die, and not having the play of the swivel and having it all be tight causes the disk to slide a bit further, dropping all the powder with the smaller holes. Having the assemble loose causes problem too. Just a theory...

On checking the disks, after buying several kits, the double disk kit etc I have what seems like a whole inventory of disks. Some of them will have a hole that is off by quite a bit, so I mark the bad holes. I keep them because I sometimes use the other (the good) holes to double-disk with powders like IMR 4227, so they come in handy. The point is, always check the disk as a .32 may not be exactly like another .32... for example.