Lyman 55 Powder Measure

[trapper9260]

I have a problem with my Lyman 55 Powder Measure that dose not drop the charge of powder the way I want. I go by what the instuctions say . So I just weight each charge to get the weight where it should be . Dose anyone have any orther ideas I can get the right charge.
Thank you

[AZ-Stew]

Welcome aboard!

Be sure the measure slides aren't overlapping each other. I'm not quite sure how to describe this, but if, for instance, the smallest slide extends to the left of the medium slide, there will be a void under the small slide that will not always fill the same way and you'll get uneven charges. Whatever charge you're set for, the largest slide has to be farthest to the left, the middle one farther right or flush with the left end of the large slide, and finally the small slide has to be farthest to the right or flush with the end of the middle slide. Any configuration where the smaller slides overhang to the left of the next largest slide will result in uneven charges.

When set correctly, the Lyman 55 will throw extremely consistent charges. I've been using one for over 35 years and wouldn't trade it for any other brand.

Regards,

Stew

[azshtr]

My 2 cents.

What do you mean by "does not drop the charge of powder the way I want"?

You should always weigh the drop until you have adjusted to the amount you want and then I would drop an additional 10 drops or so and weigh each to make sure the drop is true. At least that's the way I have did it for 30 years regardless of the manufacturer of the measure unless you are using a fixed disk type measure. I would then check every 20 rounds or so and weigh again until I feel comfortable with the repeatability.

I have a Lyman 55 and a Redding Match Grade and my Lyman is just as reliable as the Redding. Just a bit harder to set with the slides than the Micrometer.

[LAH]

Set them slides to cut as little powder as possible.............Creeker

[cajun shooter]

The Lyman 55 is a very accurate measure. It is also a little hard to learn that it has three adjustments. I had a friend who only adjusted the large screw and was upset that he could not regulate it down to a small amount. The slides are what makes it a little picky.

[HeavyMetal]

I actually think the question should be what powder and what charge weight are you trying to get?

[GP100man]

1 thing not mentioned yet is the double bump at each stroke end !
Which should be used on all manual powder dumps!

[dromia]

As well as the sound advice and questions above, consistent throwing technique is the key to consistent drops with any powder thrower.

Make sure that you are doing exactly same each time, do you bump, tap or use the knocker?

Whatever you do it must be consistently the same each time.

[stubshaft]

As well as the sound advice and questions above, consistent throwing technique is the key to consistent drops with any powder thrower.

Make sure that you are doing exactly same each time, do you bump, tap or use the knocker?

Whatever you do it must be consistently the same each time.

Amen to that Brother!

Lyman 55's DO NOT work well with large (75.0gr+) charges of bulky stick powder. For these I use my old B&M or drop a couple of grains light and trickle the remainder onto a scale.

[trapper9260]

Welcome aboard!

Be sure the measure slides aren't overlapping each other. I'm not quite sure how to describe this, but if, for instance, the smallest slide extends to the left of the medium slide, there will be a void under the small slide that will not always fill the same way and you'll get uneven charges. Whatever charge you're set for, the largest slide has to be farthest to the left, the middle one farther right or flush with the left end of the large slide, and finally the small slide has to be farthest to the right or flush with the end of the middle slide. Any configuration where the smaller slides overhang to the left of the next largest slide will result in uneven charges.

When set correctly, the Lyman 55 will throw extremely consistent charges. I've been using one for over 35 years and wouldn't trade it for any other brand.

Regards,

Stew


Thank you for letting me know . I do understand what you wrote .What is writtien on the slide is what is confusen me to get it set .fpr what is written on them is what I was going by. But the way you explain to me I understand better.I want to thank everyone else for there input .
Thank you all

[AZ-Stew]

As others have said, consistent operation is a key to consistent charges, and I should have mentioned it.

I've never used the markings on the slide for anything. I set the measure using a scale. In my mind, the markings don't even exist. When I first got the measure I tried to use them to return to a previously used charge, but found the effort exceeded the reward. Throw, weigh, adjust, repeat until you get the charge you want. After a while, you'll get a feel for how much of each slide has to protrude from the right side of the measure to get you in the ballpark.

Regards,

Stew

[LAH]

Thank you for letting me know . I do understand what you wrote .What is writtien on the slide is what is confusen me to get it set .fpr what is written on them is what I was going by. But the way you explain to me I understand better.I want to thank everyone else for there input .
Thank you all

I've never went by the numbers on the slide & infact don't really know what they are. Like our friend above, I set it, throw 'bout 10 to be sure, then check every 20 or so. Good advice from azshtr............Creeker

[fourarmed]

Here is what to do: Open all three slides all the way, and clean out the measure very carefully. Get out every grain of powder. Now push the large slide all the way in and adjust the smaller slides for the charge you want. The problem is grains of powder holding the large slide open just slightly. That allows varying amounts of the powder being used to get in that narrow gap. The variation that produces in small charges can drive you crazy.

If you have the same problem with large charges using the large slide, then the problem is elsewhere, and the previous suggestions should help.

[BerdanIII]

Do you want the suggested (semi-accurate) slide settings for various powders that came with the instructions for the older 55's?

[woody1]

You said, "What is writtien on the slide is what is confusen me to get it set .fpr what is written on them is what I was going by. "

Do you have a copy of the instructions that come with the measure? I can e-mail them to you if you need them. Regards, Woody

[buckbeans]

Hate to crash on your thread but all might be interested in my question.
How are you officially suppose to use the knocker?
I am having trouble with green dot and red dot powder inconsistency.

[HeavyMetal]

Lift powder arm, flick knocker, lower powder arm, flick knocker.

Use only the tip of the index finger and try to use a consistant flick with only the third joint of the finger moving.

Strive to be consistant, practise, practise, practise!

[LAH]

Hate to crash on your thread but all might be interested in my question.
How are you officially suppose to use the knocker?
I am having trouble with green dot and red dot powder inconsistency.

I raise handle allowing chamber to fill. Lower handle to dump charge. Flip knocker to be sure no powder hangs in tube. Repeat, repeat, works for me over the last 35 years.........Creeker

[flounderman]

I don't bother with the knocker. you use a loading block with your brass in a row, you can raise the handle and lower it and tap a second time with the handle to be sure it has emptied, you can raise the handle, lower it a little and raise it again to tap and then lower it and double tap. develop a rhythm, two taps up, two taps down and it will be fast and consistant. then visually check the filled cases in the block and anything doesn't look like the rest, empty it aqnd refill it.

[Dale53]

As a matter of interest, the "measurements" on the powder slide are for black powder. I have ALWAYS ignored the measurements. I try to set the slide based on the size of the powder charge (only the small slide for small charges and gradually, progressively, add the other two slides as the charge gets larger. I tend to go for a WIDE cavity instead of a DEEP NARROW cavity.

Have your scale set up close by and practice regularly until you get consistent powder charges. The way YOU operate the measure has a LOT to do with consistent charges.

Dale53

[scrapcan]

Another thing to remember is that not all 55 measures are the same. There are huge varieties and subtle variations. Depending on how old your measure is it may have different methods for adjusting the slides. some have only a single thumb stud, others have adjustable slides via end screws and a lock stud.

There should be an excellent article or book coming out in the future on the lineage of ideal/Lyman powder measures as several members of the ARTCA are working diligently to document all that can be gleaned from historic samples and literature.

[boommer]

Knocker on the charge, Knocker after the dump. and even when loading the rotor handle goes up with a snap to it. This will settle the voids in the powder and you will have more consistent weights. I have found for me on the 55 and my RCBS that a tap for every cycle of the rotor a tap for settlement is what it takes to keep the most consistent charges.

[rbuck351]

Mine has a little end play in the slides and I have to push in on the handle slightly to keep charges consistant as well as the knocker thing.

[woody1]

Guess what folks? The instructions are at Lyman's websight. Pdf file here
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/scales-measures/pdf/LyC_SM_PM_55.pdf

As for the knocker, I use it only after the "dump" to make sure all the powder drops. I load the drum with a tap ta tap tap at the top of the throw. Yup, that's four taps to fill. For me it gives the best consistency with flake powders like the dots, Unique, Herco, etc. Regards, Woody

[trapper9260]

I just want to let you all know, that for what all of you told me to do and gave me that I have the Power measure drop the charge the way I want it to . I tap the side like some of you said ,I did not use the knoker . I know I have to watch how I tap it,ortherwise I get a heavy charge .I got it down now to what I need to do.You all made it easy for me to understand. I thank you all again .

[daboone]

There should be an excellent article or book coming out in the future on the lineage of ideal/Lyman powder measures as several members of the ARTCA are working diligently to document all that can be gleaned from historic samples and literature.

Any word on this happening? Google search didn't return any results.

[Pressman]

The work is still in progress. Much has been done though a lot remains. Also, summertime activities get in the way. Just how the final information is going to be released has yet to be determined.
I can say I had thought the 55 was pretty much the same throughout its 60 some years of life, how wrong I was! Eventhough the basic design has not changed since its inception in 1903.

Ken

[stephen perry]

I used an Ideal 55 for many years until I knew better. Most powder throwers are of the Gravity Feed principle. Your 55 is one of them. You need to look at a few things with the 55. First shape of powder being thrown. If long stick like 4198, 4350, 3031, 4064, or 4831 you need to take it slow in dumping. Rat tat tat bang, bang bang on the measure is not necessary if have you removed all the static from the powder reservoir and drop tube. I would also suggest that you try several after market drop tubes with larger drop openings, Sinclar sells some that work with a 55.

Trapper to see how consistent of throws your 55 will throw try a ball powder like 748 or a short stick like 4895, these types of powders will throw well with your metal drop tube.

What I do for long grain powders is open the deep cavity for say 95 % of the powder charge and finish the load with the second cavity. The third cavity on my 55 is hardly used but could be used for small charges of pistol powder. Hope all this helps.

Like I said most powder throwers are of the Gravity Feed priciple, the name on the thrower has little to do with gravity drops of powder. If I had none I would buy the RCBS, you get 2 drums and a few drop tubes. No big deal but the ones I have are Ideal 55, Lyman/Jones, Lyman/Culver, RCBS, Hollywood, Beding & Mull, RCBS lil dandy, Redding, LEE Dippers, and a Bruno.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR

[daboone]

I recently got my second 55. This new one is black. I noted the large deep bottom and the middle brass sliders both had burrs on the end that prevented them from completely closing. Actually the burrs on the middle were on the end of the track the slide fits in. The middle slide did need to be filed a little also to allow complete closure.

I found taking the 55 apart and cleaning it regularly to ensure the slides will close all the way is one of those steps necessary for consistency and repeatability.