Bwana
02-25-2010, 09:06 PM
The following is the method to turn 7.62X25 brass into .35 caliber rifle bullets.
1) If using fired cases, clean and then, preferably, size them without decapping to ensure uniformity and roundness. The batch I used for this bunch (200) were loaded rounds that I had pulled the bullets. (I ended up with about 15% case neck splits. The cases were point stabbed crimped and the splits were at the crimp points. Oh well.) If pulled loaded rounds fire the empty cases in a STAINLESS gun. The priming is generally corrosive and that's why stainless and be sure to clean and lube afterward.
2) (optional) Using 9mm shellholder and six pointer die put cuts into case mouth.
3) Anneal. pictures shows cases on burner before and after 7 min on HI coverd with sauce pan.
4) Carefully towel off any loose debris on outside of cases.
5) Lube cases and using Lee steel 9mm taper crimp die and .243 to .308 Lee bullet sizer push rod, size base first so that push rod shoulder almost contacts bottom of die. There are two pictures of the knock out rods: A .359" drill rod blank and a 5/16" bolt with a sized to .358' bottom of a .223 case. I now use the first (with 40 S&W case on top).
6) Now using a .22 Rem Jet die, (I used the seater die with stem removed) you can use the sizer just as well, and the Lyman blank shellholder run the cases up into the die until the case mouth outside dia is .260"(approximately SH flush with die bottom). Using knockout rod and remove sized case. It is now shaped except for nose rounding, that comes later.
7) Using Lee .357" push through sizer size the cases.
8) Using .223 rem shellholder and (I use a RCBS .32 Long/Mag seater die with roundnose stem insert bullet into sh and raise ram to top and turn in die( with stem backed out) until bottom of die just touches shoulder of bullet. Lock it there and turn in stem until it touches jacket mouth and then turn in until opening is about .200".
9) Clean cases. As I have stated before I use acid and then do two neutralizing baths and then water rinses until clear (2 or 3) all very warm water.
10) I dry in pan on stove (Aluminum pan).
11) To pour cores: Using pure lead, place cases around top of pot (I think I'll try a hot plate in the future to see if it's better).
12) Pour cores into jackets and then quickly place on blank shellholder in press and raise ram gently to contact mouth of jacket with smooth face of bottom of 7/8" all-thread to squeeze off excess lead (amount of time between placement and contact depends on bullet caliber and length and ambient air temp.)
13) Place bullet in metal pan to cool then trim any excess lead with sharp knife.
14) I then moly coat and resize to help embed moly in jacket.
I have attached some of the pictures and will put the rest in another thread(s).
1) If using fired cases, clean and then, preferably, size them without decapping to ensure uniformity and roundness. The batch I used for this bunch (200) were loaded rounds that I had pulled the bullets. (I ended up with about 15% case neck splits. The cases were point stabbed crimped and the splits were at the crimp points. Oh well.) If pulled loaded rounds fire the empty cases in a STAINLESS gun. The priming is generally corrosive and that's why stainless and be sure to clean and lube afterward.
2) (optional) Using 9mm shellholder and six pointer die put cuts into case mouth.
3) Anneal. pictures shows cases on burner before and after 7 min on HI coverd with sauce pan.
4) Carefully towel off any loose debris on outside of cases.
5) Lube cases and using Lee steel 9mm taper crimp die and .243 to .308 Lee bullet sizer push rod, size base first so that push rod shoulder almost contacts bottom of die. There are two pictures of the knock out rods: A .359" drill rod blank and a 5/16" bolt with a sized to .358' bottom of a .223 case. I now use the first (with 40 S&W case on top).
6) Now using a .22 Rem Jet die, (I used the seater die with stem removed) you can use the sizer just as well, and the Lyman blank shellholder run the cases up into the die until the case mouth outside dia is .260"(approximately SH flush with die bottom). Using knockout rod and remove sized case. It is now shaped except for nose rounding, that comes later.
7) Using Lee .357" push through sizer size the cases.
8) Using .223 rem shellholder and (I use a RCBS .32 Long/Mag seater die with roundnose stem insert bullet into sh and raise ram to top and turn in die( with stem backed out) until bottom of die just touches shoulder of bullet. Lock it there and turn in stem until it touches jacket mouth and then turn in until opening is about .200".
9) Clean cases. As I have stated before I use acid and then do two neutralizing baths and then water rinses until clear (2 or 3) all very warm water.
10) I dry in pan on stove (Aluminum pan).
11) To pour cores: Using pure lead, place cases around top of pot (I think I'll try a hot plate in the future to see if it's better).
12) Pour cores into jackets and then quickly place on blank shellholder in press and raise ram gently to contact mouth of jacket with smooth face of bottom of 7/8" all-thread to squeeze off excess lead (amount of time between placement and contact depends on bullet caliber and length and ambient air temp.)
13) Place bullet in metal pan to cool then trim any excess lead with sharp knife.
14) I then moly coat and resize to help embed moly in jacket.
I have attached some of the pictures and will put the rest in another thread(s).