Lee production Pot spout drill out

[2shot]

Has anybody tried drilling out the spout of a Lee Production Pot to increase the flow of lead to the mold? If so what size drill did you use?

I've had a Lee production pot that I bought back in 1977. It melts lead fine but I always had a problem with the spout either freezing up (lead hardening in spout) or what seems like an insufficient flow for larger bullet moulds like 240 grain 44's whatever the temperature setting. I can't tell you how many times I have cleaned this pot and spout out hoping that this would be the cure but to date this hasn't helped. This Lee PP has sat dormant for 30 years now and I'm tempted to drill out the spout to see if that helps. I think I paid $15 for this thing so if I wreck it it's no big loss.

Any ideas?

2shot

[Mk42gunner]

I'd start small, it will be easier to increase the hole if you don't get it large enough than to decrease it. It doesn't take much increase in diameter to make a large increase in flow.

Robert

[largom]

I don't think the size of your spout hole is your problem. I think it's dirt/scale building up on the rod. Had the same problem on my Lee, was always sticking a bent wire up in the hole, while lead flowed everywhere, to clean it out. Also had to keep turning the rod with a screwdriver. I took a piece of 5/16 rod, bored a shallow hole in one end to slip over the Lee rod. Drilled and tapped for a small set-screw to lock it. The rod was 3 in. long and I bent it 90 deg. 1 in. from the bored end. I now have a 2 in. "handle" sticking out. Every time I pour a mold I swing the handle slightly while the sprue is hardening. Since then I have never had to clean my spout AND all of the dripping has stopped. I have the Lee 20lb. pot. Hope this helps.

Larry

[lwknight]

I think I used a 3/32 drill in mine to clear the spout. I may have enlarged the hole slightly but it works fine and does not freeze up anymore.
I would say to get a drill as close to original as you can. A drill that is full hole size may clear some junk that the wire has been missing.

[canebreaker]

I use a 5/64" hex drive bit to keep mine clean. I haven't thought about drill it out larger.

[SciFiJim]

largom, can you post a picture of your modification?

[largom]

largom, can you post a picture of your modification?

WILL TRY! Not very good on computer, still learning, too hard headed I guess.http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo137/largom/P1010040.jpg IT WORKED! You can see the rod extension which is secured with a set screw. The end of the extension must be beveled to clear the adjustment screw for spout rod travel. I think I replaced the original screw with one which had a thinner head. You can also see the holder for my thermometer which I added.

Larry

[SciFiJim]

OK, now it makes sense. I am thick headed sometimes at reading descriptions. Seeing a picture helps a lot. I'll have to try that.
Thanks,
Jim

[Meatco1]

I gave up on my Lee, and bought a RCBS pot, now there are no drips, & no problems with the hole plugging up..

My Lee? It just sits on the shelf. Perhaps one day I'll plug the hole, and make it a dipper pot.

In my opinion, life is just too short to fiddle around with a poorly made piece of equipment.

Richard


Richard

[Greenhorn44]

Got tha lee 4 - 20, had the same problem, poor flow/no flow. Straightend out a jig head and cut off the hook and barb used that to clear the hole. i guess after the wire got to hot to many times it SNAPPED!! off in the hole. Dang it!! Just smelted to!!! So i ran inside grabbed my wifes steel icecream scoop, smacked it with a hammer to give it alittle spout end. And it works better than the lee pot every did. I think the flow on these pots are good for casting sinkers, Not so good for casting boolits. Im thinking about drilling the hole out.

[buck1]

I have the RCBS, a old Saeco, a old lymen, and the 10lb lee bottom pour, and the lee dipper pot. All the bottom pours I have work fine, even the Lee. Oh it dripps a bit but they all do I keep a ingot mold under them . No biggie.

[Frozone]

I have the RCBS, a old Saeco, a old lymen, and the 10lb lee bottom pour, and the lee dipper pot. All the bottom pours I have work fine, even the Lee. Oh it dripps a bit but they all do I keep a ingot mold under them . No biggie.

Problem is: some people just aren't happy unless they buy the most expensive piece of equipment available, then they Must claim the cheaper stuff Just Must Does Not work as well or better. after all they own the Best because they payed X times more for it.

[rbuck351]

largom
brilliant. simple and easy to make. Adds weight as well as a handle for a quick twist without having to align a screwdriver on the end.

[hoosierlogger]

I would think that if the hole were drilled out that it would drip faster. But then alot of good things drip, Harley Davidson comes to mind. My production pot has dripped since the minute I plugged it in for the first time. Heck I think it was dripping before I put lead in it. no big deal though I just scoop up the drip piles when I clean the sprues up to put back in the pot. I think they flow fast enough, but the biggest boolit I have filled is a 230GR. If you are working with a 500GR boolit for a .45-70 you probably would want to go faster.

[Shiloh]

Great Idea Largom!!

Think I'll do that to my pot!!

Thanks!!

SHiloh

[DLCTEX]

Clean alloy and adequate heat keeps my Lee running. I have no problems casting boolits as large as 58 cal. I cast some 475-400 yesterday with some zinc contaminated lead. After getting the mould warmed up, it went well.

[AZ Pete]

Fantastic!

[Padrino]

Just wondering which electric melting pot most people are using?
I had a a Lee Production Pot IV, but it kept tripping my safety switches every time I turned it on, and it actually can't be sold here in some states in Australia.

I'm leaning towards the RCBS export model (220 volt); it looks like a good machine, but I'm open to any advice.

Thanks and regards,

el Jimador

[Southern Son]

el Jimador, I had the 4 lb Lee bottom pour, then I got the 20lb Lee bottom pour. Both are OK, they dripped but that don't really matter. When the puddle of lead got big enough to pick up with gloves, I just dropped it back in the pot. The 2 main reasons neither of the Lees are getting used now are one, I cast mainly 520 grain boolits and seem to get better results with a ladle, and two, the Lees don't seem to hold a consistant temperature anymore.

It is fairly stupid that the Lee pots can't be sold in some areas of Australia, but I don't know if that has anything to do with your pot tripping your safety switch, they have never tripped any of mine, so that might be something worth looking into, either the power point was dodgy, or something is wrong in your pot. Where in Oz are you?

[Colorado4wheel]

<<<<<<<<<<<New Lee 20lb bottom pour user right here. I got a intro into casting using a RCBS 20lb pot. It is nicer by a good margin. No drips, nice warming shelf, insulated as well, better thermostat. BUT, the Lee pot works. At first it didn't drip at all, then I decided to remelt a bunch of bullets I had Alox/Johnson Wax lubed. Then it dripped like crazy. I scraped it down, fluxed it really good and got it nice and hot (900F) turned the rod a bunch as well. Now it barely drips at all again. The thermostat is actually working a little better now as well. I think it needs to break in a little. I set mine to 4.5 and get 800-850F. Lee sent me a new one anyway. I may not install it now that this one has settled down. The flow control takes some getting used to but it's not horrible. I can get mine to flow much faster then ever needed. So fast it would be dangerous I would think. My spout is always frozen well past the point of when the lead melts. You just got to heat the pot up to about 750F or more to get it unfrozen and then turn it down if needed. No big deal. My cold garage is not helping any I am sure. It's no RCBS but's it's 1/5 the price and seems to work OK.

[fastfire]

The bent rod is a good idea, I was in the process of going through my short pieces bucket when I looked on the bench and saw a .223 brass!!! It screws on by hand and I think it may work.




WILL TRY! Not very good on computer, still learning, too hard headed I guess.http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo137/largom/P1010040.jpg IT WORKED! You can see the rod extension which is secured with a set screw. The end of the extension must be beveled to clear the adjustment screw for spout rod travel. I think I replaced the original screw with one which had a thinner head. You can also see the holder for my thermometer which I added.

Larry

[Mike W1]

WILL TRY! Not very good on computer, still learning, too hard headed I guess.http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo137/largom/P1010040.jpg IT WORKED! You can see the rod extension which is secured with a set screw. The end of the extension must be beveled to clear the adjustment screw for spout rod travel. I think I replaced the original screw with one which had a thinner head. You can also see the holder for my thermometer which I added.

Larry

Mines a IV and I already had 1/4" bolts welded on there but never found a handle I liked but your lever inspired drilling and tapping a piece of aluminum so now I have a lever which is used as a set screw and if I decided I wanted it longer or shorter a 1/4" bolt does the trick. Photo is of my top pot which is reversed and the little mirror in my exhaust hood so I can read the dial setting.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/Lever_zps12d33862.jpg