How can you remove the bevel a mould?

[Mark in GA]

I have a few Lyman 4 cavity moulds (358665, 429667, 452630) that have varying degrees of bevel to their bases. The RNFP designs have less than the H&G clone 452630, but honestly I would prefer that they all were true flat-base designs.

How easy is it to modify the mould blocks to remove the base bevel? What are some ways this could be done?

Thanks,
Mark in GA

[JIMinPHX]

My preferred method is to use a boring head in a Bridgeport. Another good way is to use a lathe with a 4-jaw independent chuck & a boring bar. Some other people have done it with reamers, drill bits, rat tail files & the like, with varying results. Some guys got those hand tricks to work & some guys wrecked good molds trying. My suggestion would be to either find a local machine shop or else send it to a reputable person who does that sort of thing on a regular basis. Buckshot, here on the board, has a wonderful reputation for top quality work. I have also seen people post favorable reviews of the work done by a guy named Eric at hollowpointmolds.

[Shiloh]

I have one that is going to a Buckshot for flycutting the BB off.

Shiloh

[hammerhead357]

I have a 30 carbine H & G 10 cavity mould that was reamed out in the 70's and is a good caster. If you want more boolit weight get it reamed out if you want less get the top of the mould milled off to remove the bevel....Wes

[Marlin Hunter]

If you don't need the bevels anymore, can you send them to me? I have a few molds that I think would benefit by having a bevel. Although I don't know if Lyman bevels would work on a Lee mold, it would be worth a try.

:bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:

[Echo]

MH, I believe Lyman still uses Metric bevels, while Lee uses American. so they won't transpose...

[Marlin Hunter]

MH, I believe Lyman still uses Metric bevels, while Lee uses American. so they won't transpose...

:groner::groner:

[JIMinPHX]

MH, I believe Lyman still uses Metric bevels, while Lee uses American. so they won't transpose...

If you seat them in the new mold with a left handed hammer, it should work.
:kidding:

[HORNET]

MH, I believe that waksupi is still peddling loob grooves. If you stick half a loob groove on the bottom of each boolit, it'd be like a rebated bevel....:kidding:

[Marvin S]

Thats my complaint with the BB, it acts like half a lube groove and is annoying. My LEE .358 RNFP has a date with the bridgeport.

[462]

Marvin S,

Determine which mould half is causing the bevel base to act like half a loob groove, then remove the bevel on that half, leaving the bevel on the other half. Also, there will be lube on only one half of the boolit's base, thereby reducing any ill-effects by half.

Edit: Yes, Marvin, I was kidding. Tried to add the chain hanging thingy, but couldn't get it to work.

[Marvin S]

462 I don't understand. The lubrisizer fills the entire bevel area around the boolit, it is not much but just wastes lube and is annoying.

[ANeat]

Marvin I thinks he's messin with ya. Shoulda thrown in one of these :kidding:

[softpoint]

You can take the bevel base out of a Lee aluminum mold with an exacto knife, or utility knife. Just go slow and you won't mess anything up. That doesn't apply to the iron moulds you mention, though. Send them to someone to bore them out.

[geargnasher]

If you don't need the bevels anymore, can you send them to me? I have a few molds that I think would benefit by having a bevel. Although I don't know if Lyman bevels would work on a Lee mold, it would be worth a try.

:bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:

DADGUMMIT. I threw a handfull of them in the trash last week, figured I'd never have a use for them. Next ones I remove I'll be glad to send them your way. The problem with trying to use Lyman bevels on a Lee mould is that the Lyman bevels are way undersized on the newer moulds, and after you tap them in you have to enlarge them with a loob groove stretcher sliced in half.

Gear

[mtgrs737]

I don't care for BB boolits, so I sent three four cavity moulds to Erik at Hollow point service to have the BB bored out of them. Two Lyman RNF a 45 cal. and a 44 cal. and a Saeco 410 41 cal. Erik did a excellent job of removing the BB and trued up and enlarged the base on the Saeco as it was slightly out of round. I am very pleased with his work and the moulds were back to me so fast I never had time to miss them.

[Rat-Man]

I just turned a new internal punch with a mirror image of the bevel that was a tight sliding fit.

I guess a fellow could just drill a hole in the end and use some JB Weld to make a matching punch like everyone does for the top punch. The matching bevel was the hardest part of making a new one.

Rat-Man