Some BASIC info for the newbe please.

[buck1]

Its he77 starting out something new. :violin:
I have cast for a long wile now and always concidered swaging but never quite took the first step and cant find much reading on it . But I got to start sometime so bear with my ignorance please.
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD ANYTHING ELSE!!
I need to lube the core before putting it in the jacket? -And- lube the jacket before swaging?
I plan to use a flare die such as a M die to seat the cores or may try a 40 bullet seating die. I am unsure of the best way to get the core in to the case . the post about melting it in to the case has my intrest. But I think annealing first then melting the core in waould be the easy way to clean the annealed cases.
Any way any thoughts or dos and donts, Please throw my way! I am all ears! Or eyes I guess! LOL! Thanks in advance....Buck

[deltaenterprizes]

Do not lube the core before putting it in the jacket.

[jixxerbill]

Do not lube the core before putting it in the jacket.

+1 u want the core to bond to the jacket, in fact its a good idea to throughly clean lube off of the outside of core and inside of jacket !!! keep fingers clean while handling the cores (u will have to lube the outside of jacket while seating them) so try to keep one hand clean to handle cores and other hand with lube on fingers to handle jackets !! just my .02, good luck

[buck1]

Thats a ton of help! I had that part all wrong!...Thanks...Buck

[BT Sniper]

When everything is perfect the core will be just a hair smaller then jacket and "fall" into place. Belling the case mouth certainly helps and m die should work just fine. Avoid lube on core. Melting the lead in the jacket should anneal the jacket at the same time, not absolutly sure. I still advise that the a case should glow a bit to insure proper anneal. I know others have posted postive results from various methods.

Biggest concern is absolutly seperating annealed cases from others.

Anhydros lanolin is all I use anymore as lube for everything. Keep the swage lube very clean and free from contamination.

A decent press with a bit of leverage makes it more enjoyable.

Swaging is a hobby and like all new hobbies there can be a bit of a learning curve. For me the curve usually involves somthing out of the ordinary I am trying to perfect that may be different from the norm. Best advise is to not let the challenges get to you as the rewards when it all comes together is worth the effort.

Making bullets is only limited by your imagination. I used to think it took expensive machines and a bit of magic to make bullets. You will find after a few bullets made you will feel like a bit of a magician.

It is easiest to think of the brass jacket and lead core as nothing more then that, a bit of brass and lead. Both are easily manipulated with a bit of pressure.

Not to much hard addvise but when you get started you will probably have some specific questions.

Good shooting,

BT

[Country]

Look there is numerous kinds and ways of swaging . without an explanation of exactly what kind of bullet you are making and what kind of jacket you are using it is difficult to give accurate advice.
However you do not lube cores before seating them.
You lube cores before swaging them in a seperate core swage die.
Then you wash them really well in a degreasing solvent .
Leave them to dry for a few days.
Then you seat them. Thats the three die method for making rifle bullets.
I really don't understand most of your question .

[buck1]

After leating the cores into the brass jackets I feel lots better about this. Thanks for all the help!!...Buck

[Country]

When everything is perfect the core will be just a hair smaller then jacket and "fall" into place. Belling the case mouth certainly helps and m die should work just fine. Avoid lube on core. Melting the lead in the jacket should anneal the jacket at the same time, not absolutly sure. I still advise that the a case should glow a bit to insure proper anneal. I know others have posted postive results from various methods.

Biggest concern is absolutly seperating annealed cases from others.

Anhydros lanolin is all I use anymore as lube for everything. Keep the swage lube very clean and free from contamination.

A decent press with a bit of leverage makes it more enjoyable.

Swaging is a hobby and like all new hobbies there can be a bit of a learning curve. For me the curve usually involves somthing out of the ordinary I am trying to perfect that may be different from the norm. Best advise is to not let the challenges get to you as the rewards when it all comes together is worth the effort.

Making bullets is only limited by your imagination. I used to think it took expensive machines and a bit of magic to make bullets. You will find after a few bullets made you will feel like a bit of a magician.

It is easiest to think of the brass jacket and lead core as nothing more then that, a bit of brass and lead. Both are easily manipulated with a bit of pressure.

Not to much hard addvise but when you get started you will probably have some specific questions.

Good shooting,

BT
You should not need to bell the mouth on a bullet jacket .
The jacket and core should be precisely sized to slip straight in.
For rifle bullets I don't like the idea of bending up the jacket mouth at all.
You want the neatest meplat you can get from the final point forming die .

[bohica2xo]

Country, you might want to read a few threads here, and see what people are actually doing before offering more advice.

This discussion does not involve precision rifle bullets. BT and others here are using 40S&W brass for jackets to make .429 bullets.

Most of the people involved in this project are casting cores - as bullets. Typically a cast bullet is pushed into the case, then the case is bumped up to .429 during swaging.

Others are making .400 diameter bullet from 9mm brass the same way. When putting a .357 cast bullet into a fired 9mm case for a core, belling the mouth is sometimes helpful.

Using scrap range brass that has been fully annealed to make jackets is the game here, and the nose is usually a generous hollow point.

B.

[DukeInFlorida]

Your comment is SPOT ON!

I don't expect to using any of these swaged bullets to shoot in pistol competitions.

I was looking for a way to get cheap (almost free) plinking bullets.
The process is working for me, and as soon as I get enough of the 9mm cast cores made, I will start assembling enough that I will be able to load them into .40 S&W cartridges, and will do some field testing. Can't wait.




This discussion does not involve precision rifle bullets. .

[buck1]

Thanks to everyone for the great help!
I have never swaged before but I bet like casting and loading in general. With a few tweeks and attn to detail, we should be able to make em shoot well. I once spent over a year refining one load for one gun. But I got it to sing ,and even dance too. LOL .........Buck

[Country]

Country, you might want to read a few threads here, and see what people are actually doing before offering more advice.

This discussion does not involve precision rifle bullets. BT and others here are using 40S&W brass for jackets to make .429 bullets.

Most of the people involved in this project are casting cores - as bullets. Typically a cast bullet is pushed into the case, then the case is bumped up to .429 during swaging.

Others are making .400 diameter bullet from 9mm brass the same way. When putting a .357 cast bullet into a fired 9mm case for a core, belling the mouth is sometimes helpful.

Using scrap range brass that has been fully annealed to make jackets is the game here, and the nose is usually a generous hollow point.

B.

I thought he was talking about normal bullet jackets . However my comments are still correct for jacketed bullets .