9mm to 40 one step anneal and core seat

[ETG]

OK, been doing a little experimenting today. I annealed some 9mm cases and belled the mouth. I used the oven's self clean cycle to anneal. Cast some Lee 125 gn RN out of pure lead. I noticed the core slug depth in the cases varied quite a bit. I swaged one of my cores in a case Brian supplied with my die set. It came out just like the sample Brian included in the kit. Next I sweged several using the cases I annealed and my cores. I had quite a bit of lead around the top edge of the case an even a litttle above it. Measured all of the bullets and they all mesured the same (.399). Got to thinking (a bad idea for me) how would be best to make sure these cores all seated the same. Not wanting to add another step with the press I thought I would try belling the mouth of unannealed cases, put in the core, and anneal. It worked!!


Cores in unannealed cases:
http://members.cox.net/etgoddard/IMGP1419.JPG



Cores after 20-30 minutes on the hotplate. I used both unanneled cases and some cases I anneled in the oven to see if there was any difference - no noticable difference.
http://members.cox.net/etgoddard/IMGP1420.JPG




Below is a picture of the sweged bullets. From left to right. 1) Case was unanneled before hotplate. 2) Case was anneled in oven first and put on hotplate. 3) Case was anneled in oven and swedged without melting core. It's hard to see but there is considerable lead at the opening of the hollow point. 4) Case supplied by brian, my core, sweged without melting core. 5) Sample provided by Brian.

You can see the level of the lead is well below the top edge of the brass in the first two bullets. I haven't played around with the die settings yet (all sweging was done with the settings as Brian shipped the die). This should allow a shorter bullet to be formed by rolling inward the top edge of the brass.

http://members.cox.net/etgoddard/IMGP1422.JPG

[ANeat]

Very nice work; If the core wasnt such a tight fit I think a little flux would result in a nice bond between the core and the jacket

[richbug]

Very nice work; If the core wasnt such a tight fit I think a little flux would result in a nice bond between the core and the jacket

I bet the tumble lube grooves would carry enough flux.

[bohica2xo]

Really it only takes a tiny bit of flux if the brass is fairly clean.

Use a Q-Tip to swab the ID of the case with a liquid flux like Ruby Fluid. Just wet the surface.

It would be a shame not to bond the cores if you are processing like that.

B.

[ETG]

Not sure about the flux. I cleaned the cases by boiling in a solution of water, vinagar, salt, and dish soap The rinsing in plain water. They were pretty clean. When I heated them two popped and bounced the core off the ceiling. I'm thinking if flux was used more might pop the cores out. I know those two popped because I didn't let them dry long enough and there was probably a little moisture in the primer. Possibly the Q-tip might work. I'm not sure the cores are not already bonded.

[ANeat]

There popping out because they are too tight of a fit in the case and there is probably a bit of trapped air in the bottom.

If you use a smaller diameter core that wont trap any air or flux it will work better (wont shoot any out LOL)

[ETG]

Hummm - could size them using flux for the lube but that still adds another step to the process. Might try my 357 mold - can't remember what weight it cast though. Also could put a dab of flux in a plastic bowl and tumble the cores in it like tumble lubing before putting them in the case.

[MIBULLETS]

It could be an extra step, but if you want all of the finished bullets to look the same you will need to sort the brass by manufacturer at least. Some makes of brass differ in weight and internal capacity by quite a bit!

If the slight difference doesn't bother you then make em and shoot em. Just make sure the weight variance isn't too great.

Nice looking bullets either way!

[BT Sniper]

Great work ETG. I second all the comments above as the info is good! I imagine the reason the melted core is lower at the tip then the unmelted is because you filled the primmer pocket with lead now. Not a big issue and may actually help hold the core a bit. When swaging cold cores the soft lead will extend just a little in the prommer pocket and the wheel weight will be flush with top of flash hole.

I have used the Q tip with sucesses. I really think a small spray bottel to deliver a fine mist would be even easier and faster. It would only need to be a very fine mist. But eather way have fun with it just the same. Thanks for posted your success. The lead melting process should anneal the cases at the same time. DO watch out for the lead popcorn and were eye protection.

Good shoting,

BT

[bohica2xo]

ETG:

If the cores are flying out, it is air, or possibly steam. A quick smack with a cold chisel down the axis of the "core" will provide a vent to stop the trapped air "eject" A warm, flying core is a bad thing.

A flux is needed to solder brass. Not much, but some. Just barely wetting the ID of the case will do it.



Brian:

There are a couple of reasons NOT to spray flux. First, it will be on the OD of the case, and you do not want that. Next, it will be all over everything else too - and it is mildly corrosive. Finally, do you really want to inhale a fine mist of mildly corrosive material? There really is a reason there is no "spray flux" on the store shelves...

B.

[BT Sniper]

All good points! I stand corrected. Not having tried it before as a spray I shall stick with the Q Tip.

"Smack" the core to create an air vent! So simple. Don't now if I ever would have thought of that.

Thanks B,

BT

[ETG]

ETG:

If the cores are flying out, it is air, or possibly steam. A quick smack with a cold chisel down the axis of the "core" will provide a vent to stop the trapped air "eject" A warm, flying core is a bad thing.
B.

Not sure I'm understanding what you mean. If you smack it cold with a cold chisel it will only expand the core and possibly seal it more - it would not penatrate all the way through. If you wait till it's soft enough to punch through it would have already popped. Also, if you smack it while it's on the hot plate it would knock all the others over. I must be missing something.
ETG

[ANeat]

He means lay the core on its side and put a dent down the length,(with a chisel) before putting it in the case.

Of course doing that would make it a little tougher to get it into the "jacket" but it would be worth a try

[ETG]

Oh - OK - I get it. Easier to just stay away from it till they melt. They are pretty snug as it is.

[BT Sniper]

The idea is to create a vent shaft allong the side of the lead core to allow the trapped air under it to escape when heated. We all should know what trapped air does when it is heated and has no whare to expand too. POP! hopfully not BOOOM!

[bohica2xo]

Geez guys, you only need a little vent channel - you don't need to smack them that hard! LOL

Seriously, even a deep score with a utility knife might get the job done. All it takes is something to break the smooth circumference, where each band seals to the case. A groove .005 deep x .007 wide is enough.

B.