32-20 Brass in Nagant revolver?

[swheeler]

I bought R-P 32-20 brass to use in my 1895 Nagant revolver. The 32/20 brass has a rim that is thicker and larger in diameter than the 7.62 brass, it locks up the cylinder. The .008" larger diameter hits the spur on the loading gate, and the .012 inch thicher rim makes the heads rub the frame. I know people have posted about using 32/20 brass in these guns, but never said anything about altering the brass to make it work? Anybody got any ideas of how to work the rims over, fast and easy? I took one casing and carefully chucked it in the drill press, then used a file to turn the rim to diameter and thickness, the casing works perfectly, the file removes all the headstamp. I don't really want to do this 500 times! Looks like an outside reamer could correct the diameter, rim thickness would be a little harder short of lathe turning. Ideas?

[Bodydoc447]

Starline brass is supposed to be best for needing little or no alteration to work in the Nagant. I may be wrong but I'd suggest taking the rim thickness from the front of the rim rather than the headstamp just so as not to change the primer pocket depth at all. Someone with better ideas ought to chime in here soon.

Doc

[swheeler]

Bodydoc; yes you are correct about removing metal from the rim, that's why I did just one to see if the altered brass would allow the cylinder to turn, but the primer pockets could also be reamed back to uniform depth. have read several posts on this board, and others about using 32-20 brass and nothing was said about turning the rims down, I'm wondering if my gun is of different dimensions than most? Maybe a little tighter- thanks for the reply
Scot

[9.3X62AL]

That sounds like a LOT of work to get a revolver up and running. I have used the Starline brass in 7.62 x 38R with good results in my 1916 Nagant, no clearance issues at all. Unless you have other toys to feed with that brass, there are a number of us here who would likely take that brass off your hands, and the proceeds of that sale could be plowed back into Starline Nagant brass.

The Starline Nagant brass needs a little 'reforming' before it will fit readily in the chamber. I did this with the 30 Carbine steel sizer die--the SAAMI radial dimensions of the Carbine round are VERY close to that of the Nagant. 32-20 expander and seater dies follow.

[swheeler]

Al; appreciate the offer. I still have about -200 of the original 250 Starline left, I see from notes last loading was eighth time, so they have done well. I am starting to lose a few more from body splits, so thought I would give the 32-20 a try, picked it up locally. cheap and can return it even after sizing- no problema. Just looking for some new avenues to explore, I really like the way you can seat the 311-100-2r and just crimp over the ogive to same overall length as the org round. IIRC paid 52.00 for 250 7.62x38R SL, 500 RP 32-20 for 50.00, just like double mint gum, double your pleasure-double your fun! ha I have noticed the more I shoot this relic the better it gets. What I need is an outside reamer of the correct dimensions, that in one sweep will reduce the rim dia, mill the thickness, and uniform yhe pocket- simple really, chuck the reamer in drill press and push the head of the case in until it stops-DONE! Joe you reading this

[StarMetal]

Yeah, would be easy on a lathe too.

Joe

[swheeler]

sure would Joe, I haven't checked Starline since I bought the pistol, but their 7.62 N brass was a little high just over a year ago. I have a sinclair pp uniformer to work over the pockets, so I might just convert 100 of the brass to try and return the rest.