Polishing SS ???

[Super38]

I recently acquired two older police range guns, decent looking. I want to bring back the natural shine, (not too shiny for a revolver).

Is there a cloth and compound that I can use? Sandpaper? I want that bead blast look again without paying to have it done. Thoughts are to turn one of them around and sell it, so I need to keep cost as minimal as possible.

Thanks

:?: :?: :?:

[nicholst55]

Try some Mother's Mag Wheel Polish; it's what was recommended to me, and it works very well.

[dubber123]

The only way to get a bead blast finish that I know of is bead blasting. For a duller brushed finish, you can use a Red Scotchbrite pad. Use long strokes where possible.

[calaloo]

If you will check around with places that restore old cars they may bead blast your parts for a few bucks. I had such a place clean up a Contender barrel that I cut off an recrowned. I had to use the steady rest and it marked the barrel. You could not see the place after blasting and they only charged two dollars.

[KCSO]

MSC has a special Stainless texturing wheels to give the factory brushed finish to s/s kitchenware and sinks. It doesn't look too bad but bead blasting is really the best bet.

[Cactus Farmer]

MSC has a special Stainless texturing wheels to give the factory brushed finish to s/s kitchenware and sinks. It doesn't look too bad but bead blasting is really the best bet.

Those "deburring" wheels do a great job but they are pricey for just a couple jobs.
I have two grits and they are handy as the pockets on a shirt but I do this for a living. I bead blast too and the "brushed " finish is the closest to the factory finish.
I reserected a S&W SS snibby the had a Winabago melt around it. New springs,a set of good used factory grips and a blast and then buff job made it almost as new. I carried it to gun shows as my pocket gun for a few years when a fellow saw it( didn't put it under the table yet) and paid me too much even after I told him the melting story. He said he just loved the brushed look. Go figure!YMMV

[Super38]

Okay, it's a revolver. What do I have to do to it in order for someone to bead blast it? (besides take the grips off.)

[Cactus Farmer]

Disassemble it totally. The beads get into EVERYTHING. Degrease. Really degrease well. Tiny holes are hard to clean with beads and oil/grease. Blast. Wash off againt.Blow out ALL holes. Check holes with wire or paper clip. Reassemble.

Or just take it to a smith of your choice.......we really are cheaper in the long run......

[dubber123]

Cactus Farmer has it down. The beads fit into places you couldn't imagine. If you have a non-gun guy do the blasting, either tape off the barrel ends, or plug them with something. You don't want a blasted finish in either. Where are you located?

[Super38]

I have some red polishing compound left over from polishing gold. I placed a little on a blue shop towel (has a little texture to it) and rubbed it on the bottom of the lug. NOT BAD!

It's going to take a little time, but it's working. Not shiny (just what I want) but still taking some of the light marks off. I should have taken a photo (before and after). Oh well... I'm getting the result that I want, that's all that matters.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[JIMinPHX]

Polishing to a shine is easier than generating an even mat finish.

Unless you are a gunsmith, or at least know the tricks for getting the lock plate off without prying it & are competent to completely disassemble/refit a revolver, then I would stay away from bead blasting. Those beads go EVERYWHERE & they are abrasive. Besides, a bead blast finish is probably rougher than you really want.

Of the things suggested so far, I would either go with the texturing wheels from MSC or the scotch bright pads. If you go with the scotch bright, a little oil on the pad helps to give you a more consistent finish. I've done a fair amount of that. The finish is kind of nice looking when done well.

[machinisttx]

Grey scotch bright leaves the closest thing I've seen to a factory finish.