Cast problem

[DWM]

I'm daniel form Spain and relatively new to cast , did it in the past more on saving cost than precision , now want to have real accuracy , try Lee bullets with success and bought a Lyman 311299 , and get bad bullets as they are not .311 all around , it measures .311 x .308 , read a bit on this great forum discover Beagling and did it , now I have round bullets :-P , my problem almost 50% of the rejected bullets have the same problem , don't fill in the waist... I cas at 650ºF 5% tin5% linotype with lee moulds I have 20% of bad bullets on a bad day , but this Lyman mould a bad day means 50% of bad bullets , I'll try to upload a photo of this bullets .

I'l, apreciate any help where to look to solve this problems

Thank you for this great forum.

Daniel

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc181/Daniel375/Lyman004.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc181/Daniel375/Lyman001.jpg

[DLCTEX]

Your problem may be oil on the surface of the mould outgassing at that point. Try cleaning the mould with brakecleaner (auto parts store), then scrubbing the cavities with a product such as Comet, Bon Ami, etc. These are common cleansers in the US, don't know what a similar product would be there, but a good whitening toothpaste will work also. Some boil the mould in a pot of water and a bit of dish soap. If this doesn't do it let us know.

[SharpsShooter]

I cast a lot of this boolit. Literally thousands of them. Your mould is dirty, temperature too low and you went too far beagleing. Clean the mould as mentioned with brake cleaner etc. Remove the beagling for now and cast at 750 to 800 degrees. The small dimensions you were getting could be from incomplete fill-out and the finning and cat whiskers have to go.


SS

[jdgabbard]

I agree with cleaning the mold. They all look to be in the same spot. Which tells me you've got something there keeping them from filling out...

[Bass Ackward]

Dan,

Are you sure that you are really at 650? I have a thermometer that I go by, but in no way do I trust it to actually be what it says it is. I only use temperature as a reference point.

Generally, for dipping, I need 200 degrees above the melting point of the mix. To bottom pour, I need 250 minimum. Then it goes up from there based upon mix, mold material, bullet diameter / length, etc.

Do what they suggest and try again.

Just so you know, my most accurate load is actually undersize in 30 caliber. .3075 to .309 X .302. Outta round, outta balance and still will hold less than 2 CM @ 100M. So don't get wrapped up in dimentions before you try it. Just get good bullets.

[HORNET]

Daniel, Ladle casting or bottom pour? It looks like you might be trapping some gas due to technique. There are different things to try for either approach.

[leftiye]

Also could be a hot spot in the mold (but probly is some form of grease or oil).

[prickett]

Daniel, Ladle casting or bottom pour? It looks like you might be trapping some gas due to technique. There are different things to try for either approach.

I too am having problems with getting bullets not filling out completely. I use a bottom pour. What techniques do you recommend for that?

[462]

prickett,
Clean the mould. If you've already done so, clean it again.

Turn the heat up. When you start dropping frosted boolits, turn the thermostat down a bit until the frosting disappears.

Tin helps, too... 2% is enough.

Vary the distance of the mould to the spout. Sometimes closer helps a reluctant mould.

Don't smoke the mould.

Each mould is different and will tell you want it likes. It may help to log each mould's preferences.

Good luck.

[captaint]

DWM & prickett, You just got some very good advice. Also, if you don't have a hot plate, get one to sit the mold on to heat it up good. Find a piece of sheet steel or copper to go between the actual heat coil and the mold. enjoy Mike

[DWM]

Thank you for the help ,

DLCTEX when new I cleaned with brake cleaner dry completely and spray with Frankford Arsenal mould release , as I have access to a professional tooth cleaner with bicarbonate at high pressure I'll clean completely again and this time will not use the release agent

SharpsShooter , I'll try heat up a bit will try 700/750ºF and if problem persist will go up to 800 ºF

Bass Ackward I'll check the thermometer not sure if it reads correctly , I'll test with a digital one , hope to test the bullets on the range next week end

HORNET bottom pour lee melter new one 20 lbs

I'll try the ideas and back with an answer

Gracias

daniel

[HORNET]

DWM, you've got lots good advice so far. With a bottom pour, in addition to varying the drop distance (or trying none), you can also try filling with the silver stream going down the center of the sprue hole or letting it hit to one side on the chamfer to give the flow a little 'swirl' as it fills. Try changing the fill speed faster or slower with the adjustment screw. Also check the vents and make sure they're clear and get rid of the release agent. If it sticks, look for burrs with a good magnifier and Lee-ment if needed (see stickies section)which will also help the roundness a little. If I wanted to annoy most of the board, I'd suggest smoking the cavities lightly with a butane lighter and using a dipper :twisted:
ADDED: also check the alignment pins to make sure they're fitted up correctly. With the blocks out of the handles, place them firmly together and try twisting the blocks against each other. You should feel and see no relative movement. If they do move, you may need to use a small punch (or nail) to tap the pins out of the block they're in slightly to get more engagement. Use your case mouth deburring tool to put a small chamfer on the receiving holes first. Play with it until the blocks just go together tightly without any movement.

[DWM]

:-)HOla



Very happy , with success :-) , I clean the mould and start to cast , first at 700ºF , the first 15 bullets great , I only adjust the temperature and leave open the valve of the bottom pour with the pour in contact with the mould , and I wait three seconds with the valve open to pressurize the mould , maybe this is the right way to do, ( but I just fill and open in the past ), then I go up 750ºF and start to have filling of the vents grooves ( barbed bullets) and a few bullets have problem to fill completely I cast 20 bullets with this temp. and went to 800ºF and get fins and half the bullets have filling problems .... I have only a heated mould ... cold it and back to good bullets , ( with fins included ) , reduce to 700/750ºF three second "pressurize" mould and with a not to hot mould I have 9 of 10 , good bullets , I cast in the past with Lee moulds and never are so finicky , also I casted ten years ago with a Lyman 6,5 mould and only get good bullets .



Thank you sincerely for the good advice .



Great forum



Daniel

Lower bullets cast at 700ºF upper from 750 to 800ºF

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc181/Daniel375/DSCN5215.jpg

[462]

Daniel,

They look good!

[prickett]

prickett,
Clean the mould. If you've already done so, clean it again.

Turn the heat up. When you start dropping frosted boolits, turn the thermostat down a bit until the frosting disappears.

Tin helps, too... 2% is enough.

Vary the distance of the mould to the spout. Sometimes closer helps a reluctant mould.

Don't smoke the mould.

Each mould is different and will tell you want it likes. It may help to log each mould's preferences.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advise!

How often do you need to clean moulds? Only when new, or at some periodic interval?

[runfiverun]

you sure you aren't hitting the sprue cutter with your thumb.
the finned ones look like they are just starting to come around.
could be the pressure pouring at that temp,to increase rate and get good filll i'g try getting the mold hotter and swirl in with the hotter alloy.
i usually clean a mold after it has sat around for a while to just get dirt etc.. out of the cavs.
not a full boiling just a heat and blow out the cav's with some electronic cleaner i have.

[462]

prickett,

When they're new, they all need cleaning and a careful inspection. Unless you get lead smears under the sprue plate or on top of the mould, or lead in the vent lines, they shouldn't require any further cleaning. Inspect them before you put them away or prior to each use.

A light appication of Kroil to the mould cavities will eliminate or significantly reduce the tendancy for a boolit to readily drop from a mould. Sounds counter intuitive -- no oil in a mould -- but it does work. Wipe it on with a Q-Tip, let it set a moment or two, wipe it off, cast until the wrinkling disappears, open the mould and watch the boolits drop by themselves. Talk about black magic. There is a Kroil sticky.

[DLCTEX]

DWM: I think when the temp is right you will not have to pressure cast to get good fillout. I cast at a fast pace and usually have to cool the mould to prevent excess frosting. I use a wet spounge in a small pan of shallow water to touch the mould to, and sometimes the sprue plate occasionally. Bullplate lube helps prevent smears and lubes the sprue plate and alignment pins without carbon buildup and allows cutting the sprue a litttle earlier.