Lee die to "DeGlock" brass

[DLCTEX]

I saw an ad in the March Guns & Ammo for an attachment for the Lee FCD that pushes the brass through the die to resize the bulge from unsupported cases in the Glock type chambers. Retail is 19.98, but I don't find it in Lee's online catalog. I don't own such a pistol but do encounter some of the brass. Looks as if it may be a way to salvage such brass. Appears to be an alignment sleeve and a long push rod. Also has the bullet sizer type of plastic container to catch and hold the sized cases.

[Lee]

There's a youtube video showing how to use the Lee FCD with a home made pusher to do the same thing. Search 40 S&W sizing or some such. Unless there's construction differences, you could possibly use your sizing die(?) plastic cup to catch the boolits as they are pushed thru the FCD. Otherwise, the same hand that feeds the case, catches the case as it comes thru the die. I had some .40 that I ran thru mine, and it "de-glocked" the case just fine. Went from "won't chamber 3/8" to "drop into the chamber easy". Don't remember what I used for a pusher, cobbled something together. If I do it again, I'll turn one and make it easier to use. I also sprayed them with the Midway/Frankford **** case sizing lube. It made the operation SO much easier. Then a quick trip thru the tumbler, and ready to go.......Lee

[JesseCJC]

not to sure about using the lee bullet sizing set up for case sizing, but I just use the FCD on my 5th station of the LNL. I purchased mine from midway though

http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/#lee%20factory%20crimp____-_1-2-4_8-16-32

[mike in co]

about 10 yrs ago a offered dillon a set of full lenght pistol case sizing dies....they passed.

fairly simple to do. buy lee carbide sizers, cut the top off, have a machine shop hone the carbide to the correct dia( a large business..dillon...could just have dies made with the correct size carbide insert). machine a stud/spud to fit the press and the die, done.
hornady has a 40 push thru die on the market.


mike in co

[HeavyMetal]

Used the Lee FCD die to full length size a bunch of 40 brass I kept. A lot of it had been through a Glock and was bulged to the point it wouldn't chamber in my buddies XD after normal sizing.

Just took a ram from my 9mm push through bolit sizer, pulled the crimp set up out of the die and started shoving them through just like the video on U tube!

Every 8th round or so I put some imperial sizing die wax on a case and things went pretty smooth for a 1000 rounds.

Haven't read G&A in yr's but it doesn't surprise me that a tool is being offered.

Seen the Hornady die set up as well so enough reloaders are having trouble with once fired 40 brass to make it worth tooling up and making the die.

[scb]

http://www.redding-reloading.com/pages/grxpushthru.html

Another option. More expensive tho.

[acoilfld]

EGW makes a die for that. I haven't used the die, but I have purchased other items from them which were very good quality.
http://egw-guns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40&products_id=40

[bohokii]

i too saw the ad its $19.95 basically its sold as the factory crimp die with base reducing capability

i guess they saw the youtube vid where someone just uses the factory crimp die and a pusher from a bullet sizing kit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PszuLwEu8

[Lee]

JesseCJC,
I meant to say, use the plastic cup from the sizing die set-up to capture the cases, if it is easily fit/adapted to a Lee FCD. Sorry if that was confusing.
The Lee ad I saw showed a plastic cup "thingie" that was supposed to sit on top of the set up and capture the cases after the FCD push through sizing. Not knowing any better, I wonder/suspect it is the SAME plastic "cup" you get with your Lee push thru boolit sizing die set?? Interchangeability is where it's at! (or should be).........
HeavyMetal got the idea. Did essentially the same thing I did. Salvages a lot of brass!!!
bohokii..yes that's the ad. I think it's just a standard FCD, Lee is touting "base reducing capability" in order to sell more stuff?? If true, those of you with a .40S&W FCD only need the "pusher" and a plastic cup on top(if desired) to de-glock that brass...........

P.S. straight walled cases of course. IIRC a 9mm is slightly tapered, so a push thru "sizing" die could get real interesting!!

[Johnch]

As a 40 S&W suposed to be .427 ?
And guys are using the cases as 44 mag jackets

Why couldn't we just use a Lee .427 or .429 sizer die to reduce the Glock bumb

If the lead into the die wasn't large enough to take a unsized case mouth
Maybe a more tapered angle into the die would be needed to size the case mouth

But I would bet it would work

John

[cheese1566]

Here are the instructions:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf

[DLCTEX]

Sizing loaded rounds? I suppose it wouldn't be much different than a rifle bolt shoving on a case, but it made me stop and think. I'd want my push pin to have a slight concave in case I leave a primer high.

[nighthunter]

GlockJockey posted a youtube video in chat last night of a sizeing die set up that I think he devised. It would probably work very well for this purpose. I think that if you viewed the video you could adapt his idea to a single stage press very easily. A PM to GlockJockey would probably be the easiest way to request the link to the video. Maybe he could post the link on this thread for all to see.

Nighthunter

[HeavyMetal]

Typically Lee isn't thinking this through in thier instructions.

My experinece with trying to size loaded rounds is you wind up with loose boolits in the case afterwards!

This system should be used only to resize case's before the loading process is started. Done once you won't have to do it again unless you shoot a Glock.

The advantage to using the Lee FCD die is it's carbide which means no lube or seroius application of pressure to the operating handle.

Very few pistol case's are "straight", tried a few 9mm's in a FCD crimp die and wound up with "sized" case rim's.

If you own or are going to buy a 40 S&W pistol then purchase the Lee die set that comes with the FCD die and your ready to handle any case's you shoot or buy/scrounge!

[mike in co]

Sizing loaded rounds? I suppose it wouldn't be much different than a rifle bolt shoving on a case, but it made me stop and think. I'd want my push pin to have a slight concave in case I leave a primer high.

as long as the surface was relatively flat, PUSHING on a primed case is relatively safe. it takes an IMPACT (firing pin, dropped on a sharp corner) to detonate a primer.



mike in co

[DLCTEX]

I don't think it is meant to size the neck area, but to remove the bulge near the base that is not reached with a regular size die due to the shell holder stopping the die and the tapered leade to start the case in the die. As far as the FCD sizing a boolit after it is seated, I find that if the case is being resized when it is withdrawn from the die then something is wrong that needs correcting (such as a bulged case from excessive crimping., for one).

[zardoz]

I'm a recent Glock owner, as just today I shot a 10mm for the very first time in my life today. A Glock 20 purchased just two days ago.

I fired 10 rounds of Remington factory, and did a quick analysis.

Using electronic calipers, I measured right at the area of maximum bulge.

New unfired factory rounds measured. 0.419 to 0.420"

Fired rounds (or "Glocked") measured at 0.430" consistently at the same area.

Then I took the stuff out of a Lee 40 S&W FCD, and used a .401 bullet sizing punch to "unGlock" the brass. Those all measured 0.423" consistently at the area in question.

Quick and inexpensive. I also have the Redding re-sizer die on order, and very curious as to how it compares to the Lee FCD method.

EDIT: Meant to add, that my intention is to take this resized brass, reload with a cast boolit, and then see if it chambers in a Lone Wolf barrel on order. I have been reading on the forum here, and elsewhere that dimensions for the Lone Wolf are tight, and things must be carefully measured for proper operation. Will update once all the bits and pieces are in.

The main thing I want to know, is any difference between the Lee FCD method, and the Redding die method.

[jhrosier]

FWIW, I recently bought a Lee FCD to remove the Glock bump from range pickup brass.
It is a lot simpler to just size all of the cases rather than try to figure out what gun they werre shot from.
The empty fired case is pushed rim first through the die with a pusher from a Lee boolit sizing die.
The "guts" need to be removed from the die for this operation.
It works just fine on plain brass but some nickled brass took way too much pressure to resize.
I have very little of the nickled brass and will probably just give it away rather than mess with it.

Jack

[bohokii]

does anybody have a before and after case length does pushing in the bulge lengthen cases any?

i think the instructions are lame advising not to use that to reload for glock


i mean what the heck do they think we are going to do shoot factory stuff in our glocks then use this and only reload for our beretta 96 or smith and wesson?

for those who havent seen it

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e366/bohoki/leebulg.jpg

[DLCTEX]

If you keep reducing the bulge and then blowing it back out in a
glock your brass life will be very short.

[Herb in Pa]

I just ordered the EGW die to see how it will do, I don't have a Glock, but an MP40 and a Uzi will give you that same bulge..the MP40 from a large chamber and the UZI from it's advanced firing system that actually fires the round a few milliseconds before it's fully chambered.......slows down the cyclic rate. I currently have to segregate the subgun brass from the regular pistol ammo.hope this works.

[Salmon-boy]

I've got one of the Redding dies.. I have to say it works pretty well. Sized case recovery is a bit wonkey... Yep That's a technical term.. Splurging for the plastic bottle and adapter is kind of much.

Otherwise, It does work like a charm though... I can tell when I hit a truely glocked case - it's a bit of a push through - hope you bench is sturdy!!

[rtracy2001]

Looks like the lawyers got to Lee and that is why they don't have the bulge buster on the website, wither that or they just don't feel like updating it...

From Lee's Website:

"We do not recommend "fixing" cases fired in pistols with unsupported chambers, because there is no way to make them safe once they have bulged. The case wall is thinned where it bulges, and resizing the outside of the case back down to the correct diameter does not restore the case back to its original thickness. If this case is fired in a pistol with an unsupported chamber again, and this thinned section of brass happens to line up with the unsupported part of the chamber, there is a high probability that the case will rupture."

It is a good explanation as to why not to use "fixed" cases in Glocks

[zardoz]

As stated previously, I only plan to use the "de-Glocked" brass in the Lone Wolf barrel, at only low to medium power loadings. Something in my engineer "spidey-sense" said it would not be good to fix the bulge, and then put it right back into the factory Glock barrel.

As such, only new factory rounds, or virgin brass plus j-word projectiles will see the Glock barrel. I just got notification today, the Lone Wolf is on the road heading to my location.

Right now, I'm using once-fired 40 S&W brass, in a SW990. I noted early on, that about 10% of the reloaded rounds would not go into battery. When I looked into it, I noted the characteristic bulge, and figured this must have been the victim of an unsupported base (i.e. Glocked). It is my understanding that the SW990 has the fully supported chamber.

All this got me to investigating the 10mm Glock, and the things I was prepared to do to ensure consistent function with cast boolits and fired resized brass.

[shotman]

As many know Glock says not to use reloads. guess that is part of the Lee story. I have worked about 3000 brass. Done right it takes 2 steps.
First is run them through a .421 push through. next step is a Lyman FL sizer and grind the bottom of die flush to the carbide insert..
It will size the full case back to factory new.
You cannot size a Glocked case in a Lyman die from start. The carbide will cut the brass off the head area. I have checked RCBS dies and they will not size the ring out Lyman will but you need to grind the die flush

[rbuck351]

And when it does blow on the ? time is been loaded and shot in a glock it will probably shred the frame.

[dakotashooter2]

I am considering the RCBS tool because I get most of my brass through the local Police Chief who's department uses Glocks. About 10% of my rounds hang up failing to fully chamber. I also realize case life will not be as long however since about 25% of the brass is likely to be lost easch outing it isn't going to see many firings anyway and most is used for lower pressure plinking rounds.

[Herb in Pa]

The EGW die showed up today and it's a Lee Carbide sizing die and decaper.........not meant to resize loaded rounds but to deprime them. I sized a few that were shot from my MP40 and they just dropped right into my case gauge and were swallowed up in my 228 Sig...so far so good!!!

[ghh3rd]

i mean what the heck do they think we are going to do shoot factory stuff in our glocks then use this and only reload for our beretta 96 or smith and wesson?
Probably covering their butts legally, by "discouraging" using it for Glocked brass, while knowing that's what it's being purchased for.


If you keep reducing the bulge and then blowing it back out in a
glock your brass life will be very short.
That's why I purchased an aftermarket barrel for my Glock. After pusing Glocked brass completely through the sizer once to remove the bulge they are fired in the supported chamber which keeps them from bulging again.

Randy

[emorris]

I have been using the lee fcd die to "DEGLOCK" my 40sw brass. I have always been careful with this caliber when reloading due to the possiably of a kaboom. I never reload it more than twice since brass is cheapier than a new glock. my normal loading sequence is as follows: first i deprime, then tumble brass, then resize with sizing die, then lube and push through fcd die ( with the top screw and carbide sizer removed from die). I use a dummy 38 special round (bullet and case only) for the pusher (must have a 38 special shell holder). I cut a hole in the botton of a plactic cup, obtained at mapco's soda fountian, and place it over the die to catch cases. after all that hard work i trim cases clean primer pocket, and tumble again for a short time to remove debris oils from hand etc... after this i store i zip lock bags using gloves ( i have had problems with stored brass turning brown). Now it is not neccessary to do all this but i always take extra caution with 40 sw brass and this method allows me to inspect it several times. I am currently loading 180gn berry rs (sorry no cast booliets in glock YET!!!)

[Depdog]

I got the Redding GRX, made a small YouTube video of it as well.

Works pretty darn good for me. I am looking into getting an aftermarket barrel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR5a0P6_75M

Glenn

[jdgabbard]

about 10 yrs ago a offered dillon a set of full lenght pistol case sizing dies....they passed.

mike in co

I have a friend that has a dillon die for 45 and one for 40 like that. Takes it to spec all the way down the case, including case head...

[emorris]

"A hand on a gun is better than a cop on the phone," Jerry Ellis, Oklahoma State House of Representatives.

THIS QUOTE IS TRUE, BUT IT IS EVEN FAR BETTER TO BE A COP WITH A GUN IN YOUR HAND.

[jdgabbard]

I use glock fired brass with no problems. I get 99% of my 9mm brass from a police range. And i just run it into a size die. No issues yet.

[fryboy]

i too had seen a add and worse i seen the instructions before i saw the add ( on lee's web page) and have to admit i had wondered why i havent seen it in dealer stocks ,ur's guy's discussion brings a bit more than i first thought to light ( thanx amigos ! )

[Adam10mm]

I never understand all these add on dies for "special Glock brass". Properly sizing your brass will eliminate any bulge. If your brass is bulging in the first place, a resizing die is the least of your worries. I would not tolerate that one bit.

[rtracy2001]

I never understand all these add on dies for "special Glock brass". Properly sizing your brass will eliminate any bulge. If your brass is bulging in the first place, a resizing die is the least of your worries. I would not tolerate that one bit.

As I understand it, many factory Glock barrels do not fully support the cartridge case, especially where the feed ramp comes into the barrel. When you fire a Glock, the brass case expands and fills the chamber, but since part of the case has no chamber supporting it, the brass continues to expand and bulges.

Regular resizing can't effectively size the Glock bulge because the bulge occurs so low on the case (the shell holder won't allow the case to enter the sizer). Since the 40 S&W cartridge is rimless, A push through sizer can be used to remove the bulge. The only other way to size so low on the case would be a Colet style sizer (like a MEC Sizemaster Shot shell reloader), but I haven't seen any of those available yet.

If you don't remove the bulge, the reloaded round may not chamber, or worse may rupture or jam.

[DLCTEX]

It's not just Glock. There are some other brands that do not support the brass in the chamber. Glock seems to be the worst due to their oversize chambers to provide reliability when firing all brands of ammo. Probably why Glock doesn't want you to reload for your Glock.

[Adam10mm]

As I understand it, many factory Glock barrels do not fully support the cartridge case, especially where the feed ramp comes into the barrel. When you fire a Glock, the brass case expands and fills the chamber, but since part of the case has no chamber supporting it, the brass continues to expand and bulges.
There are no firearms available today that 100% fully support the casehead. Even my .375 H&H Magnum TC Encore pistol operating at 65,000 psi didn't fully support the case.


Regular resizing can't effectively size the Glock bulge because the bulge occurs so low on the case (the shell holder won't allow the case to enter the sizer).
I come across a lot of different brass fired from a great array of guns. I've never ever had an issue properly sizing any case that I've come across. I reload for a lot of agencies that use Glock .40 caliber guns and never had an issue.


Probably why Glock doesn't want you to reload for your Glock.
No, Glock doesn't want to pay for repairs due to incompetent handloading. Same as most every other gun maker.

[rtracy2001]

For anyone wishing to give the Lee "bulgebuster" a try, these folks have it on sale for $12.95

https://kempfgunshop.com

I have the Lee FCD, so I figured why not? It is on its way.

RT

[Cadillo]

There are no firearms available today that 100% fully support the casehead. Even my .375 H&H Magnum TC Encore pistol operating at 65,000 psi didn't fully support the case.


I come across a lot of different brass fired from a great array of guns. I've never ever had an issue properly sizing any case that I've come across. I reload for a lot of agencies that use Glock .40 caliber guns and never had an issue.

No, Glock doesn't want to pay for repairs due to incompetent handloading. Same as most every other gun maker.


Very broad statement. My counterbored Smith's have fully supported cases including the case heads. I know that they are not chambered in any calibers common with a Glock, but you said "no firearms". Also, the term normally used in this regard is "fully supported chamber" something that the Glock most certainly does not have. It does not refer at all to the case head, but rather to that portion of the case which contains the powder and gas upon firing. Assuming reasonable pressures, the case body is the only area that will bulge. Glock chambers leave more of the case body unsupported than other makes as it helps with feeding issues, but turns out to be an Achilles heal with regard to shooting reloads, especially ones that are hot or were created with cases that have been fired on multiple occasions.

If you have an overload sufficient to affect the case head, case heads swell along with primer pockets, but that is something way beyond what is being addressed here. Irv Stone, head of Barsto Barrels gives a very detailed explanation of what a 'fully supported chamber" is and is not in his DVD on barrel fitting, a recommended viewing for anyone thinking of changing out a barrel on any of today's popular handgun models.

I shot many hundreds of "cast" bullet reloads in my Glock Model 22, and never had a problem, but when I stepped up to premium barrels with minimum spec chambers, the Glock .40 S&W brass gave me fits until I got the Redding push through die. My guess is that your reloads are being reshot in Glocks or other guns with chambers that are larger than minimum spec. I'm glad that you are having success.

The fact is that brass that has been fired in a stock Glock barrel is expanded more that brass fired in most other chambers. This was and is intended by Glock, who originally designed and built the gun for use by the military in field conditions where it needs to work even when extremely dirty, thus the intentionally large chamber specs. I load all my pistol ammo using Dillon dies and they will not size a Glock fired case far enough down to remove the bulge even when seated against the shellplater of a 550 or the shell holder of a Rockchucker. It's just the nature of the beast. As long as I fired ammo thus loaded in mine or another Glock, I had no trouble, but once I tried it in a Sig, a Les Baer, or a Lone Wolf, frequent Lockup!. The Redding die solves this problem, and it seems that the EGW die should as well.

I should soon know. My EGW in .45 ACP shipped today, which should solve the slight problem I currently experience with a very few of my reloads in my P220ST with Barsto barrel. :D

[rtracy2001]

OK, so it arrived today, and I waisted little time in trying it out.

The kit consists of a brass catcher (identical to the boolit catcher on the sizing kits), a small (and short) push-rod, and a sleeve that adapts the FCD to either the brass catcher, or a Lee Loadmaster guide tube.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/tracraym/MISC/IMG_0715.jpg

The first thing I noticed is the pusher has a recess in the top, probably to allow use of the kit with loaded ammo.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/tracraym/MISC/IMG_0716.jpg

Here is the factory crimp die. Take it apart, remove the crimp bushing (center) and thread the adapter into the FCD body. It doesn't show up in the photo but there is a small chamfer on one end of the crimp bushing. Make sure to put it back together correctly, or your FCD will be primed to ruin ever round put through it!

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/tracraym/MISC/IMG_0719.jpg

Here is the kit ready to use on my Rockchucker.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/tracraym/MISC/IMG_0720.jpg

I did not have any truly bulged brass readily available (I can round some up easy enough), so I just took some once fired brass and ran it through. I used Winchester brass, and compared it to new Winchester factory ammo.

Here are the results:

New Factory ammo, diameter at base: 0.421"

Once fired range pickup, diameter at base: 0.429"

After sizing, base diameter: 0.422"

Nowhere near scientific as I only sized a few, but it looks promising.

I will sort through my range pickup brass and try to find some obvious Glock brass and then I will compare the "Bulgebuster" to my standard carbide sizer.

[packnrat]

i bought the standard (did not find the better one for sale) redding die (part # 96040 series SPL) (buy the best only cry once) for .40 de-glocking. just a touch of case lube,
works great. just mount up in a cheap lee press and go to town. you can cut the bottom off a liter soda bottle and force thread it on to the top (bottle up-side-down). the id of it just fits the die threads.

everything works great, need to buy a 9mm and a .45 acp sets. i do a lot of range pickup.



.

[mold maker]

Here are the instructions:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf

For even easier use, (for those with the ability to mount a press upside down) a hose, tube or funnel instead of the red plastic cup will direct the processed brass to a collection container hands-free. All you do is feed the brass and work the handle.
This also applies for sizing boolits.
I've processed many gals of LEO (Glock fired) brass almost effortlessly, The output is not discernable from factory or roll sized.
This process is also a way to swage brass to a larger caliber bullet jacket with a more concentric wall thickness.

[William Yanda]

I have a friend that has a dillon die for 45 and one for 40 like that. Takes it to spec all the way down the case, including case head...

I investigated a push through system for 9mm. Darn, its a tapered case so the concept is not applicable.

[David2011]

I never understand all these add on dies for "special Glock brass". Properly sizing your brass will eliminate any bulge. If your brass is bulging in the first place, a resizing die is the least of your worries. I would not tolerate that one bit.

That ignores reality. I shoot lots of range brass. The modified Lee FCD will not sufficiently resize the Glock bulge for brass to chamber in my STI in .40 S&W. Granted, it has tighter tolerances than many guns. Before loading any brass for that gun it is run through a Magma Engineering Case Master Jr. It has a modified Dillon sizing die that Magma diamond hones to remove the taper, according to what they told me. I only run the brass through the Case Master once and then mark my brass so I'll be able to tell mine from other brass. My brass is separated from other pick ups before polishing. Once the pick ups have been run through the CM Jr. they are added to the "my brass" collection and are only sized in the regular Dillon die in my 650.

I tried push through sizing with a standard Dillon die on a single stage press. The web passing through the carbide ring jolted my body and the press pretty hard. The Magma die doesn't do that. Magma sells the die as part of a caliber conversion for the CM Jr.

Like most USPSA shooters, I shoot .40 brass until it cracks. Nothing bad happens when it does; I just relegate it to the scrap brass box. It's easy to detect cracked brass. When dropped by the handful onto a wooden surface the cracked pieces make a very different sound from good brass.

David

[1_Ogre]

from my experience, if you resize buldged brass, it's weakened and unreliable. I get a lot of 45ACP and 40S&W brass, and when I find buldged brass, it goes into the scrap bucket. I've seen what happens when buldged/reformed brass lets go and sometimes it destroys the firearm. Brass isn't that expensive, so I'll throw it away rather than use it. Just my opinion and experience, not wanting to start a range war here

[David2011]

I've run over 80,000 rounds through my STI and it has all be used brass except for 100 rounds of factory ammo. USPSA shooting results in lots of lost brass so yes, it can get very expensive to constantly buy new brass. Not one round has cracked in the area of the Glock bulge. Most crack below the area that gets flared but not all the way to the mouth. I would guess the life of .40 brass loaded to USPSA Major to be about 8 uses. I don't keep track of how many times I have shot it. At one time I was shooting 7 or more matches a month. I have had MANY pieces crack in the gun and nothing bad happens. A typical match would result in 0 to 3 pieces of cracked brass so clearly I was getting many loadings from each piece. The STI is on a modified 1911 frame and uses 1911 barrels. I would not make the same assumption for lightly built handguns like a Browning Hi-Power in .40 S&W. All of the bad things I've seen from brass letting go was when the head separates. That is not what happens in my experience with .40 cases.

[victorfox]

I don't know if it's relevant but this guy makes an inverted sizer. You put the case mouth down in the press over a rod and pushes it upwards inside the sizer.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cgoGVANwYWk

He speaking portuguese he is one of the few who makes reloading gear here in brazil.

HTH

[jimkim]

I don't know if it's relevant but this guy makes an inverted sizer. You put the case mouth down in the press over a rod and pushes it upwards inside the sizer.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cgoGVANwYWk

He speaking portuguese he is one of the few who makes reloading gear here in brazil.

HTH
That's how I use my Lee FC body to remove the bulge. I use the part that comes with the boolit sizing die to push the brass through. I have also used 223 brass in a shellholder. I get a lot of brass after the local LEO's qualify. I think a lot of them are using early model Glocks.

Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk

[garym1a2]

I load a lot of 40 to shoot a Glock22 and 35 for USPSA matches. I 100% budge bust them with the lee tool.Brass with a bad budge is trashed. I only had one case failure, when I decided to try the factory G35 barrel instead of my KKM. I load mine to 130PF and it makes 40 a sweet round.I tend to get my brass from internet as I can get them for under 2 cents each shipped, clean and roll sized. I find match pickup brass to be rough condition as too many peoples run 9mm and 40 with major power loads.

[6622729]

If you keep reducing the bulge and then blowing it back out in a
glock your brass life will be very short.

Which is why Glock specifically states not to use reloads in their guns. I use a KKM barrel in my Glock 19 9mm which has support in that critical area. KKM specifically markets this barrel for reloads and cast boolits.

[mold maker]

If I owned one of the early Glocks or any chamber that allowed for the guppy belly brass, I wouldn't use reloads. Most of the cleaned and prepped brass for sale will contain "Glocked" brass that has been totally resized. It's especially true of LEO range pickup.
My debulged die is LEE, honed out to .423. It is used just like a push through bullet sizing die. This doesn't undersize the brass and the brass doesn't grow in length. I've shot many thousand rounds of it without a problem.
Now, I'm not advising anyone else to do like wise, just stating my own personal experience since about 1985. That's before many of you were born.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The amount of misinformation in the thread is appalling! Post #42 above is the most correct of all of them as it shows the complete Bulge Buster System and the results of using that system.

Unfired brass .421 fired .429, debulged .422 That's all you need to know!

This subject has been discussed add nauseum here many times and a simple search would have brought up no less than 20 threads on the subject.

Randy

[deltaenterprizes]

I got mine last week and spraying some lanolin/alcohol mixture helps reduce the amount of force considerably!