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SCHUETZENBOOMER
02-02-2010, 10:06 AM
Toying with the idea of breechseating in my H&R Target Classic 38-55....which would totally negate the large bore/small chamber dilema now present. As my questions may indicate this is all new to me.

Any general "rules of thumb" for breechseating boolits?

Freebore or no freebore for breechseating?

How do you take up the difference in case capacity with black powder and breechseating or is it always a full case?

How do you compress a "full case" and get a wad on top? Compress, top off and wad?

Thanx, Mike

longhorn
02-02-2010, 10:23 PM
I know essentially nothing about breechseating, but if I wanted to, I'd start by checking out the ASSRA boards. Bet they could supply some answers.

Dale53
02-02-2010, 10:53 PM
I have shot a good bit of 32/40 with black powder schuetzen. I drop the powder direct from the measure compressing it only the thickness of a .060" wad (just drop a case full and finger seat the wad). I breech seat the bullet "just" ahead of the case mouth.

Often, you will find it pays to try different primers for accuracy. When using either the .32/40 or .38/55 it is often helpful to wipe after each shot. When I say wipe, I mean push a DAMP patch through the barrel.

I soak the patches in NAPA water soluble oil (water/oil 10/1) then press the stacks of patches between two boards in a vise. This leaves the patches damp only. You just push a patch through the barrel (leaving the rifle in place on the bench rest) and let them drop off the end of the barrel. You do NOT need to run a dry patch through. This totally eliminates potential fouling problems and leaves a consistently good bore condition for each shot.

I store the "damp" patches in a screw lid jar (butt wipes give you the perfect squat jar) to keep them from drying out.

FWIW
Dale53

wills
02-02-2010, 11:14 PM
http://www.lasc.us/Brennan_6-6-1_LoadSingleShotRifles.htm

SCHUETZENBOOMER
02-03-2010, 10:06 AM
Great information. I appreciate the help. Looks like a lot of this just boils down to getting started on the 'ol leanr'n curve.

Lead pot
02-03-2010, 04:39 PM
This is my breach seating tool. I pretty much do as Dale said except I compress my black powder about .380 to get a cleaner burn for the .40-70 SS Sharps that tool is set up for in this picture.
After compressing the powder I top it off with loose powder and seat a wad flush with the case mouth and roll a slight crimp to hold the wad in place.
I don't use any lube with this loading because I clean between shots.
The bullet is groove diameter or .002 under depending what paper I use for the patch. When the bullet is camed into the bore and it does not matter if I use the rifle with no free bore or the rifle with a 4 degree tapered lead that is .243" long the bullet base will be in contact with the case mouth. There will be no gap between the wad and the bullet base. But I seem to get a little better accuracy with a traditional throat with the 45 degree chamber end now being used.
The tool is adjustable for seating depth.
This tool is will work for the Sharps and Win high wall receivers that I have and it will also work with a period scope.
I use two of these breach seaters that are set up for the .40/65, 40/70, .45/90, 50/90 and the .44/90 BN.
The case you see on the tool is mounted by threads all it does is guide the bullet straight into the throat.
This way of loading has it's draw back, it is not much use for rapid shots like the Gong shoots that keep the string moving pretty fast.

Kurt

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/940Leadpot/IMG_1186.jpg

Don McDowell
02-03-2010, 07:49 PM
Order this book it'll tell you more about breechseating than you can fully digest in one setting
http://www.cornellpubs.com/old-guns/item_desc.php?item_id=642

Also going to the Wyoming Schuetzen Union forum will probably turn you up a gold mine in information.