DIY Sprue Plates???

[HollowPoint]

Can anyone recommend a good inexpensive material for making my own Sprue Plates?

Lee Precision list them for sale at a pretty cheap prices but, they appear to be so far back ordered that it may be faster if I make one myself.

Only thing is, up to now I've had no reason to do so.

Has anybody out there ever made their own? And what kind of metal did you use to make them with.

Thanks for your help
HollowPoint

[longbow]

I have made sprue plates from plain old hot rolled A36 (low carbon steel).

I usually stress relieve then lathe turn in a four jaw chuck to take the scale and flatten off since I don't have a milling machine, then mark out, drill and countersink the sprue hole.

Had a couple that warped so stress relieved again and re-turned the bottom to flatten. Probably my fault for not stress relieving properly.

Longbow

[ANeat]

Ive made them from aluminum or steel, usually some mystery scrap I have around. Ive also bough some ground/soft steel to make them in the past. Its nice cause its flat, the right thickness and width. Just cut to length and drill holes

[Le Loup Solitaire]

You can make your own out of steel, iron or Aluminnum. A trip to the salvage yard will turn up a sheet of whatever you want to use for cheap. Thickness is your choice; 3/16 or 1/4" is better than 1/8th. Tools needed are a hacksaw or jigsaw with metal cutting blade, a drill with a bit for the pouring hole and a countersink for the top of the hole, and a second bit for the lockdown screw, and a file for trimming the corners and the sharp edges. The existing spruecutter that came with your mold is of course the template. I've done a number of them in Aluminum; regular Alu is ok, but the harder versions are better...following the article by Col. Harrison in the NRA Handbook of Cast bullets, titled "Aluminum Sprueplate rated High". The Aluminum ones made better bullets at somewhat lower casting temperatures. An interesting study in thermodynamics. LLS

[mtgrs737]

I think that Midway sells replacement sprue plates for Lee and Lyman moulds.

[JeffinNZ]

Yes, I made two replacement sprue plates for my Lyman .22 moulds.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/JeffinNZ/Shooting%20stuff/225462.jpg

The factory plates having pouring holes WAY too big for my liking. I drilled 2mm.

Material is 7 series aluminum a friend in the aero business got me. Works beautifully.

[HollowPoint]

Thanks very much to all who took the time to enlighten me.

I was under the impression that they had to be made out of some type of hardened steel. Surprised to hear that some types of aluminum can be used.

I had checked midwayusa for replacement sprue plates but, all I turned up was the six cavity plates.

I'm slowly accumulating the materials I'll be needing to have a go at making my own PP bullet mold. I fully expect that I'll make my fair share of mistakes so, it's good to know that now sprue plates will be the least of my worries.

Come to think of it now, I suppose that since lead, even at the hard BHN's is still softer than even mild steel or most aluminum alloys.

Thanks again gentlemen for your help.
HollowPoint

[Wayne S]

I was told that if I wanted to use Alum. having reread the NRA article by Col.Harrison I should use 5150-T Alum. so I ordered a 12"x24" sheet. I'll get around to making some:violin: soon

[Greg5278]

You can use ground 4140 Prehard steel. It is not too hard to file, Drill or cut with a Saw. It is available in precision, and Blanchard ground Form. You won't have to worry about the warping like the other materials that are cold rolled, or Hot rolled, but not stress relieved. If you cut one side of Hot roll plate, them heat it evenly, it will often bow.
Greg

[HotGuns]

I just used some scrap plate that I had laying around. I dont think it needs to be anything special.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b130/HotGuns/Homemade%20tools/IDCard02001.jpg

[leadman]

I'm going to try to make replacement sprue plates for my 2 cavity Lyman molds.
The sprue plate on my old Saeco 2 cavity mold is thick, with small sprue holes and works really well. The small holes plug when the mold is cold so I just swing it open and put it in the melt to heat. The good part is there is never a chunk torn out of the base of the boolit.

I am thinking of a better method to secure the hold-down screw also. Don't like the way the current one loosens up then turns too tight.

[jdgabbard]

I'm planning on making one for my Lyman 4-cavs out of 3/8" with a gutter like the H&Gs of old... Bigger the puddle, the better the fillout...you know...