Patch's

[DeadWood]

Think i'm getting myself confused from reading posts that referr to paper patching for BP cartridges?

In refrence to ML's specificly the Hawkens:

Is it better to just purchase pre-lubed patches for the .50 cal?

What can i use instead of purchased patches? only certain materials? certain thickness? depends on projectile????

I found the sticky for lube recipes, so i'm good there i hope.

Also do i need a patch for "maxi" style bullets or great plains?

[missionary5155]

Good morning
I am from the Danville area of the state of ILL.
Patches... I do not buy anything I can make or find. A pair of scissors will do alot of cutting. Some fellers wiil say round cut patches will shoot better But no deer will notice that. Patch Thickness matched to the ball for your barrel is the main concern. To loose and the seal in the barrel is not the best. Too tight and you will have to hammer the ball down the barrel. If you have to use a thin patch due to a "fat ball" you can always shove a patch wad down the bore before the patched ball that will protect the ball patch from being burned up. You may need two thin patches for an undersize ball. I have used two patches of blue jean for a real undersized ball and it shot just fine. Would have killed any bunny at 50 yards. It would be BEST to be able to get plain old pillow material or something similar that is plenty tough,thick and usually available.... BUT really any descent shirt & pants material will work with the right ball diameter. NO polyesters, nylon, krypton, or space shuttle flame retardent ! Cotton or any other natural fiber. But the more standardized you can be with patches the more consistant your shooting will be. 20 years ago I bought enough white thin denem to make a tent. I do not think I will run out soon. I will not begin to tell you the crazy things I tried over the years as patches. Smoth bore rifles are alot less finicky what holds the ball in place... BUT again for the BEST accuracy CONSISTENTCY in all aspects of loading is important.
Lubes.. well you found the sticky. I like bee wax & olive oil & use it for many things besides patches.
The maxi´s & great plains have lube grooves you fill with lube. I have zip experience with those. I would not put one in my rifles. I shoot Round Ball Only. I am not against them... I just shoot RB and that´s how I am. If I need more power I get out a larger bore up to .82. If that does not do it I haul out my double Fox 12 bore and fire a soft .73 at 1600 + fps. Under 30 yards there is NO critter on earth going to digest many of those IF I get it in the right place. I call that my toyota SMASHER.
I am sure I overlooked some item I do not think about... just do. When you hit 60 things just become part of the routine you have done over the years...

[northmn]

Maxi Bullets, Great Plains Bullets do not use patches. Paper patched bullets are usually a special bullet but some do patch regular grooved bullets. Round ball use patches. while there are formulas, a typical combination for a 50 is either a 495 or a 490 ball and a .015 thick patch and 50 grains and up for a powder charge. Roundball work best in the more traditional type rifles such as the Lyman Great Plains of the TC Hawken. Some of the faster twist modern inlines. bolt actions etc, will use them but likely at a lower charge level. While I purchased patch material, I did so at a fabric store and would get about one yard at the price of 100 precut patches. Cotton muslin is fairly thin, cotton duck and drill are also worth trying. A yard lasts a long time. Those that have tested them say that square patches are as accurate as round ones, even at bench rest competition level. I usually use a short starter and patch knife and cut them at the muzzle. Lubes fall into the area of alchemy, with more recipes which work than you can imagine. there are two types of lube. One is a wet lube that works well for shooting at the range as they help clean the bore while shooting. they also tend to dry out fairly quickly and do not work for field use very well. The wax or grease lubes are good for field use as they protect the barrel on loading as well as protect the patch from burning. They usually work for fewer shots before swabbing but do not dry out as the wet ones do. There is some evidence that GGgrandad would clean his gun between shots before reloading when possible and in normal use.

Northmn

[docone31]

Paper patching Minie's is an effective way of getting a better seal.
I fire RBs, and every 5 I use a R.E.A.L. as a scraper/defouler. The R.E.A.L. scrapes the fouling down the bore and it all goes out when it is discharged.
I use Pillow Ticking found at Walmart. Wash it, dry it, cut it, and use it. I cut it square and a little goes a long way.
Enjoy.

[DeadWood]

Please explain "R.E.A.L." assuming another style/brand projectile/

Pillow Ticking, have read others using this. Is it just found in fabric isle? Do you buy it by the yard or comes in package?

[Maven]

"Is it better to just purchase pre-lubed patches for the .50 cal? What can i use instead of purchased patches? only certain materials? certain thickness? depends on projectile????"

DW,

1) REAL is Lee Precision's name for a flat base conical bullet: "Rifling Engraved At Loading."

2) Purchase pre-lubed patches if you must, BUT they're expensive and you'll need to know which thickness your gun likes best.

3) Pure cotton pillow ticking, pocket drill, or even [thin] denim can be used for patches. However, you'll need to launder it several times in hot water to remove the sizing and tighten the weave. A tight weave is what you want.

4) Patch thickness will depend on the round ball diameter you're using, the diameter of the bbl., and the manufacturer's recommendation re ball diameter. E.g., the Thompson/Center bbls. I had preferred a .014" thick patch, whereas a Green Mountain bbl. needed a .018" patch. Moreover, if I use a .490" ball in [two of] my rifles, I'll use a .018 patch, but a .014" one if I go to .495" ball. The latter is more accurate, but requires significantly more effort to start and seat, thus ruling out field (hunting) use.

I'll see if I can copy and paste instructions for determining ball diameter and patch thickness in a separate post.

[Maven]

1. Measure your patch material with calipers, squeezing the tines together with thumb and forefinger over the patch & record that measurement.

2. Measure your groove diameter.

3. Then subtract the groove diameter from double the patch thickness + the ball diameter. For example - .535" ball + .0215patch + .0215patch = .578" total ball and patch - .564"(groove diameter with .012"depth rifling) = .014" divided by 2 = .007" compression per side. This combination will shoot well.

4. If this number gives a compression of around .005" to .010" as above, it will be a descent combination that will withstand a good heavy hunting charge.

Most rifle and smoothbore muzzles need polishing (smoothing the sharp edges of the angled crown) to allow loading tight combinations without cutting the patch. Your thumb and a piece of 320 emery will do that job well.


Note: I got this from the American Longrifle Forum. I believe the author is Daryl S.

[mooman76]

I just go through my closet and pick out some old cloths to cut up for patches. Natural material like cotten, no ply as satted by others. A good tight weave material is best like and old dress shirt. I have used flannel and it will work and loads easy but isn't very strong so it's not the best. Old military BDUs worked good too but are a little thick but also strong material. Just cut up a bunch and take it with you next time you shoot and try to see what works best.