Old oven element - good for anything?

[hcpookie]

Replaced the element in our oven after it went bad. The bad element failed "on" so the oven never turned off! Huge safety issue on this oven design. I now have a 220 element that heats up when electricity is applied.

Is there any utility in this element for a BIY smelter? I'm thinking about one of those super-easy smelter setups where old elements were used, but I don't even know if a 110 outlet would be enough to heat up this 220 element? Or does a 220 element need 220 power?

[Casting Timmy]

It's just a resistor, so V=IR. The problem of running it at 110V is that it will only have a 1/4th of the watts it did at 220V. Just measure the resistance of the element then take the voltage squared divided by that resistance. You'll get the watts the element will have at 110V.

I wouldn't try reforming it too much though. Usually tubulars elements being formed have the bends "spanked" to recompact the MGO inside the element. This keeps hot spots from happening inside the element.

If you do reform it go slowly, and be careful around the ends of the element. If you bend to close to the end of the cold pin in the element it will break out the side of the sheath. You can use a magnet though to locate the end of the cold pin inside the element though.

I hate saying it, but your oven might still have the same problem it did before you replaced the element. If the element stayed on and didn't turn off, it's not because the element went bad. Somthing with the controls went bad, it could be the sensor fell off the element and reinstalling the new element fixed the problem or something in your controls stuck on.

If the element went bad it would have no resistance or make the oven eletrically live.

I've actually been thinking about making my own casting pot. The only other thing to consider with your element is what the amp draw will be. Just be careful you don't over load your circuits by pulling to many amps. I really wish I had access to 220V for my casting pot, I really could get some lead up to temp fast that way!

If you have questions just send me a PM, I actually work with heaters a bit.

[MT Gianni]

I would vote for a stuck thermostat that got bumped and came un-stuck. You could experiment with it a bit to heat a vessel. It will need 220 to heat reliably.

[hcpookie]

Thanks for the input - sounds like I may not be able to use it if I try 110 since I don't think I have any 110 circuits with that amp draw (doh!)... should have thought about that!

As for my oven issue, it was definitely the element. I did my due diligence of troubleshooting the issue. A known problem on my design of stove and the other parts tested OK.