Lino mix

[bobv]

Hi, I'm getting back into shooting my 45-70 and casting bullets for it , I have a lot of WW's , some pure lead , about 20lbs of 50/50 bars and 100+lbs of Lino. My question , which I know has been asked before ...sorry! is what formula could I use to make Lyman no.*2 and 1:20 mix with the material I have on hand? I had all this info but can't seem to find it for moment..must be old age!The WW's I can get any time for free from a local garage
Any help would be appreciated
Bob

[southpaw]

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

Scroll down about 3/4 of the page. I think that this is what you are looking for.

Jerry Jr.

[454PB]

Lyman #2 is 5% Sn, 5% Sb, and 90% lead. You will need some tin to make that alloy with the materials you have.

One of my favorite recipes is 50/50 pure lead and linotype. Depending on the quality of your linotype, that mix should end up about 15 BHN. That's really harder than needed for most 45/70 boolits.

Straight WW's with 1% tin added makes beautiful boolits.

[bobv]

Thank you for the link
Bob

[fredj338]

Well in order to make 20-1 alloy, you need pure lead & pure tin, so you can't get there w/ any alloy containing antimony.

[Bob Krack]

Hi, I'm getting back into shooting my 45-70 and casting bullets for it , I have a lot of WW's , some pure lead , about 20lbs of 50/50 bars and 100+lbs of Lino. My question , which I know has been asked before ...sorry! is what formula could I use to make Lyman no.*2 and 1:20 mix with the material I have on hand? I had all this info but can't seem to find it for moment..must be old age!The WW's I can get any time for free from a local garage
Any help would be appreciated
Bob
Yo Bob,
9 pounds of pure and 1 pound of the 50/50 solder bars will give you a 95% lead and 5% tin mix.

I am always confused when I read "1:20", but interpret it to mean 1 part and 20 parts giving you 21 parts total. To get there exactly you will need 19 pounds of pure and 2 pounds of 50/50 alloy. (or 9.5 and 1.0)

You can get to the hardness you want with pure and clip-ons or lino but I don't have the numbers in front of me.

If I understand correctly you can only get #2 given your listed components with a mix of several of them.

Many will chime in here now with the exact proportions, if I am not mistaken!

Bob

[runfiverun]

your ww's should be about 1/2% tin 3% antimony and about 1/4% arsenic.
to get a final number just add up the 3%'s and your lino's 12% and divide by the pounds.
like 3+3+3+12=21 divide that by 4 ='s @5.1% antimony. same for the tin. 1/2+1/2+1/2+4='s5.5 divided by 4 ='s 1.25 in my world, so add the extra 3.75% tin.
being off a bit really won't matter as long as you add the same amounts each time.
so i'd add 3 parts ww's 1 part lino and 1 lb of the 50-50 to a 20 lb pot and call it a day.

[Greg in Malad]

I like to keep it simple, I use 10% Lino in WW. It has a BHN 15 to 16, and casts good.

[rob45]

For the 20:1 alloy, use your pure lead and 50/50 solder.
By definition, 20 parts lead to 1 part tin will give 21 parts total. So the tin percentage is 4.76%. But this isn't rocket science, so the simplest recipe in your situation is as mentioned by Bob Krack in post #6:
one (1) pound of 50/50 solder combined with nine (9) pounds of lead
Assuming accuracy of composition with your materials, this recipe mathematically produces a 19:1 alloy. But that is "on paper". In reality, you will have closer to 20:1 than the math would indicate, because some of the tin oxidizes during your bullet casting.

For your Lyman No.2, use the linotype, 50/50 solder, and pure lead.
Were I in your situation, I would make a larger batch of it for later use when casting bullets in the smaller casting pot. Make the batch and pour into ingots just like you do when melting wheel weights. Doing it this way will ensure consistency of alloy from one bullet casting session to the next. The initial batch can be done outside in something like a dutch oven or stainless steel stockpot, and you probably already have access to this if you're melting wheel weights.

120# Lyman No.2
50# linotype
8# 50/50 solder
62# pure lead

60# Lyman No.2
25# linotype
4# 50/50 solder
31# pure lead

The above recipes are dependent on the linotype having the nominal composition of 4/12/84. Linotype composition can vary. Sometimes you may get a little monotype in the mix. Lino that has been remelted can be depleted to the point that the composition is significantly off from original specs. Making the larger batches helps to "average things out" to reduce the effect of these inaccuracies. Also, making the larger batches keeps you from worrying about very small precise proportions; i.e., cutting off small pieces and weighing the ounces.
Still, if you insist on making your No.2 in small batches (in the bullet casting pot), here is an approximate recipe for a 20# pot:

19.2# Lyman No.2
8# linotype
1#, 4.5 ounces 50/50 solder
9#, 14.5 ounces pure lead


For target practice, a more economical replacement for your No.2 alloy is the "hardball" alloy (2/6/92). It will exhibit similar casting characteristics (hardness and diameter). This is a way to make your solder last longer.
I prefer to use hardball for target practice, but prefer Lyman No.2 (5/5/90) for hunting, as it is more malleable due to increased tin content.
The recipe for hardball is very simple: mix equal parts of linotype and pure lead.

I hope this helps. As has already been stated, nearly all of your shooting for the 45-70 can be accomplished with wheel weights in some form or another. But here are the recipes should you need them.

Good Luck.

[bobv]

Thanks guys ,your info is a big help
Bob

[Rhoa4396]

I have somewhat of a newbie question. I have about 20 lbs of type but am not sure whether this is monotype or linotype.... how do I tell the difference?

Ken
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[southpaw]

I have somewhat of a newbie question. I have about 20 lbs of type but am not sure whether this is monotype or linotype.... how do I tell the difference?

Ken
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It is a safe bet that the mono would be single letters and the lino would be a line of them (words or a sentence) together and the spacers.

Jerry Jr.

[Rhoa4396]

Hi Jerry,

Thanks, these contain whole words on the end of each 'slug' for lack of a better word. I guess that makes them lino. I've got about 20#'s free from a friend of mine. I though I could use it to blend with some of what I already have for the tin, but it looks like I'm going to have to go ahead and spend $$$$ on tin or solder. That tin sure seems to be expensive.

Ken