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azrednek
01-18-2010, 11:30 AM
I'll open this thread up so we can post our results.

Haven't got mine yet but I did get a notice that the Post Office has a parcel for me to pick up. Don't know if I can pick it up today.

Has anybody sent Blammer any gas check samples? If not could somebody please send him some castings from both air and/or water cooled wheel weights? Blammer is working with the group to supply the best fitting, lower cost, 41 cal Gator brand gas checks. Lyman has definitely discontinued the 41 cal gas check. I got that straight from the horse's mouth, a Lyman rep at the most recent NRA Convention here in Phoenix.

Blammer
01-18-2010, 11:46 AM
Here's my address

Darrell Steenwyk
112 Old Lime Kiln Rd
Arden, NC 28704

Rico1950
01-18-2010, 07:26 PM
How many do you need for samples?

Orygun
01-18-2010, 07:44 PM
There was a question on whether these would work in an S&W due to length. I don't see a problem. I set a Lyman 410459 in one of the cavs. and it is quite a bit longer and the crimping grooves are pretty much aligned. (see lousy photo).

Rough OAL measurements are: Lyman - .750 and the Cramer - .700. I hope to cast/size/load some in the next few days. I'm hoping the .416 gas checks we got from Blammer will work!?! If not, I'll load a dummy rd. to see how they fit.

GLynn41
01-18-2010, 08:13 PM
I tried both the .416s I got from blammer and some Hornady-- only my Lyman style Gator checks- the thin ones fit so far
If rico1950 wants to mail blammer some that will be great if not I can-
this one is supposed top have a .400 nose to crimp?
My Lyman 410459 fit S&W (when I had one) so this one ought too?

Rico1950
01-18-2010, 09:07 PM
Samples going out tomorrow morning.
A while back I got a couple thousand 41 checks from Blammer. They are marked 41L. I annealed them and sized .410", they stay on and they are fairly tight.

Cord
01-18-2010, 09:54 PM
I agree with Orygun; boolits side by side, I don’t see an OAL problem.
Crimp groove to meplat, Lyman 410459 is .430, the MP 410200 is .390

I would have offered samples for Blammer, but I’m casting 25/1.
Cast that soft, the GC shank measures about .3925 to .393

Gotta get me one o’ them new-fangled digital calipers!

Orygun
01-18-2010, 10:20 PM
Well, I couldn't stand it and had to go fire up the furnace. I'll have to say that my first session was less than desirable and I wasn't in the mood to fight it any longer than 50 or 60 rds.

Alloy was 50/50 ww & soft. Started about 800° and backed off to 700°-750°. The first few only one boolit was sticking to the HP pin and the other fell off. I tried some Kroil on both of the pins and they both stuck. Had to pull them off with pliers every time.

I also learned that I should have put the pins on the opposite side of the sprue cutter to make it easier to push the pins.

So I never did get any "keepers" as I figured that I would re-clean the mold & pins and come back another time.

I did get a couple to at least load a dummy rd. and see how it fit in the Mod. 57. No problem at all. Here's the OAL of loaded rds.: Lyman 410459 - 1.702 and the Cramer - 1.675

If someone comes up with a good solution to keep them from sticking to the HP pins, by all means LET US KNOW! :)

Orygun
01-18-2010, 10:20 PM
Sorry, double post.

Blammer
01-19-2010, 08:56 AM
I'll look for them Rico, thanks.

I have several type GC's handy so I'll 'check' them out (pun intended... :) ) and report back.

hicard
01-19-2010, 11:15 AM
I used emery cloth on the pins spinning in my drill press for the 40 cal pins. I also found that dipping the mould partially in the melt for several minutes heated the pins up enough to allow an easier release. Heat seems to be the solution. I try to stay just under the frosted bullet temp.

Springfield
01-19-2010, 05:26 PM
The bullet fell off the pins just fine with mine, better than the 40 and 45 moulds. I run about 675 on the lead with a Magma pot, brinell 10 on the lead. I am going to try this bullet in a 40 S&W, they sized down just fine.

Cord
01-19-2010, 08:33 PM
I read Hicard’s comment on the .40 archive thread and am trying his
drill press method, using #360 emery paper, 0000 Steel Wool, and
Dupont Polishing Compound. I’m now on my third round, cast-polish,
cast-polish, cast and now to polish again. I’ll get there eventually.

Trying to be really careful to keep the pins identical, I have only
removed about .003” tapered from the tips, I’m polishing, not grinding.

Still pulling boolits off with pliers, but it’s easier now, and running my
RCBS at 850 degrees (max), casting with 25/1, BHN about 9,
I am getting shiny boolits, there is no frosting at that temp with 25/1.

When I finally get them falling off, I will be able reduce the temp and
thereby reduce the nose flashing, and all will be good, I’m hoping.

Springfield
01-19-2010, 09:48 PM
If you're running at 850 and not getting frosting then the mould is too cool, IMHO. I can frost bullets with the temp at 650 if I go fast enough. There are many other factors involved, but mould temp is more important than lead temp. The lead just has to be a little past melted, but timing affects the mold temp. These brass molds like it hot, and thye release the heat relatively easily. Not as easy as aluminum, which is mostly what I use, so for me keeping them hot isn't difficult. If you are used to steel the pace is going to be a bit faster.

Cord
01-19-2010, 11:46 PM
It is kinda hard to keep the mould temp up when you have to pick up
pliers and pluck the boolits off the pins, the mould stays open longer,
and cools down quick. Definitely slows me down.

Early on I had to grab them hard and twist. Now I can grip and pull.
I have to be careful to not scratch the face, too.

So it’s a work in progress. I’m glad to consider any advice, though.
Thanks.

Blammer
01-20-2010, 12:09 AM
smoke the pins after they are hot, but just lightly, maybe that will help

GLynn41
01-20-2010, 11:33 AM
I tried that blammer and no change -- may have gotten a little worse--still worth a try

MiHec
01-21-2010, 05:57 AM
you need to keep the pins hot. Also I noticed that alloys with a (more) tin tends to stick more. I have ww alloy and boolits don't stick.

Temp is 850.

How do I know when mold is ready???

I heat it so much that I get "frozen" boolits. Then I wait a little and start casting.
You need to be fast then

Springfield
01-21-2010, 05:29 PM
I use a soft alloy, the same thing I run in my BP guns, mostly lead, maybe 1% tin. So maybe the alloy will make a difference, I don't know. Just in my experience cranking up the lead heat generally just doesn't make things better, it's the mould temp that matters most.

Blammer
01-21-2010, 06:07 PM
Back to the topic.

Rico 1950 sent me 10 nicely cast sample boolits.

all measured .412 as cast maybe 1/2 thousandth out of round at most.
GC shank dia is .395

I have all 3 of Gator's 41 GC's.

Gator's 410 NEI, BSS, HA! not even close, these are more suited to the 40 caliber. They won't even fit on the shank. End of test, no good.

I tried the Gator's "lyman" THIN gc's first. Max shank dia is .397 per Gator. These fit on but would not stay. I proceeded to size them down to .412 and afterwards they were loose and with a bit of effort I could remove it. I then sized it down to .410, same thing, loose and could get them off with a bit of effort. The GC spun on my fingers and I could slide it "on and off" the last bit to get it off was tough.

If you're GC shank dia is .396 or .397 I would use these because then the GC shank is thick enough to grip tightly all the way around. With the sample boolits above the .395 is just too small for these GC's.

The next were the Gator 416's. Gator's max shank dia for these is .393. These were a 'snug' snap fit, a tad of muscle was required to seat them nicely, but if you use a sizer ( duh..) the bit of force to seat them in the GC is minimal. I sized one down to .412 and the GC was ON, it was snug and NOT coming off. I then sized one down to .410 and this was still more of a good thing. For the sample boolits I received this is the one I'd use.

If your GC shank is .393 to .395 I would use these because they should work the best.
With the sample boolits above and the GC shank of .395 I'd use these even though they may be a bit tough to seat the GC.

Gator's Lyman Thin and the Gator 416's used the entire lenght of the GC shank, there was little if no room for any lube.

Orygun
01-21-2010, 06:52 PM
Blammer,
For those of us that have not used G.C.'s before, are you starting the G.C. by just pushing the boolit down onto it? For Star sizers are you sizing them base 1st or nose 1st?

GLynn41
01-21-2010, 07:03 PM
not blammer but I size base down-- my sizer is a lyman

Blammer
01-21-2010, 07:37 PM
I start the GC's by pushing the boolit down on it with my hands. I use a Lyman 450 and size/gc seat base first.

Orygun
01-21-2010, 08:23 PM
So I wonder if sizing them in a Star will seat them well enough with only the nose of the boolit below?

Dennis Eugene
01-21-2010, 10:42 PM
I seat my GC's in a star nose first with out any problems. Dennis

Cord
01-21-2010, 11:38 PM
Thanks much for the information on the Gas Checks.
Sounds like the Gator 416s would be perfect for my softer alloy.

I am wondering if you will run a Group Buy of Gator 416s for the
proud papas of these new moulds, or if not, will you be doing a
regular Gator Group Buy anytime that might include them?

Since Miha sold about 30 of these there might be a lot of interest,
I was thinking of up to a max of 5 thousand for myself, depending
on how much they are.

uhhh....is there a smiley for begging?

Orygun
01-21-2010, 11:39 PM
I seat my GC's in a star nose first with out any problems. Dennis

And a lot of people do size nose first. I'm old school and go base first, but you find the check seats well?

azrednek
01-22-2010, 01:14 AM
Blammer thank you very much for helping us out. Everybody that particiapted in the group buy, please keep Blammer in mind when needing any size gas checks. You will be hard pressed to find gas checks for less money elsewhere.

Dennis Eugene
01-22-2010, 03:33 AM
yep,Orygun they seat well, it helps to have a punch near the size of the bullit cal. but I have gotten by with a smaller dia.punch than i wished I had. Dennis

IllinoisCoyoteHunter
01-22-2010, 12:51 PM
Lathesmith will make custom top punches just a little smaller than the caliber you are sizing to aid in better seating GCs in Star sizers. I am very happy with the 2 he made for me.

Rico1950
01-23-2010, 12:48 AM
The next were the Gator 416's. Gator's max shank dia for these is .393. These were a 'snug' snap fit, a tad of muscle was required to seat them nicely, but if you use a sizer ( duh..) the bit of force to seat them in the GC is minimal. I sized one down to .412 and the GC was ON, it was snug and NOT coming off. I then sized one down to .410 and this was still more of a good thing. For the sample boolits I received this is the one I'd use

Forget about the Hornady 416. The OD is .425" on the box I have. You'll have to stand on the press handle to get these thru!

GLynn41
01-23-2010, 11:32 AM
not if your mold is cut for them :D-- I have a mountain mold that way___ I have some Gator check .416 but mine were more of a pain than I want to mess with on my Miha mold-- too much muscle needed

Groo
01-23-2010, 01:57 PM
Groo here
Got mine last night and just got off the [lead] POT .......
Bullets don't stick but the pins do ...
Could be the finish on the pins ?????????????????????
Going to try a little polish compound on a bullet....

Dennis Eugene
01-23-2010, 09:29 PM
Ok guys, I too was have big problems on my first run with the mold pins. The boolits were sticking so bad that I also had to pull them off with pliers. I got so frustrated that I put it down, turned the pins and did cast some good bullets but not hollow points. Took her out for her second run today. Took Mihec's advice and switched alloys from ww's and tin to straights ww's ran my pot up to 750-775 and kept it there dipped mold in to melt until lead would not stick to it, very hot mold, then took propane torch to the pins for good measure the first bullits I cast the sprue would not freeze mold was that hot, dumped them and made anothe couple cast and mold begain freezing. Kept a slower rate of casting until sprue was freezing at about an 8 count I was cutting the sprue right near the lead smering temp, I mean I cut it just as it froze enough not to smear lead and damage boolit base. Boolits started dropping right off pins like magic if I slowed done my rate of casting the boolits started to stick so I would speed up and they would drop freely once again. Some times a firm tap or three was called for. Now I never tried to smooth or polish the pins I just ran my mold hotter than I've ever had to run one before but I got 89 very very nice hollow point boolits and 0 culls out of the bucket. Oh yes, I almost forgot I water dropped them because I was dropping them so hot I was afraid of damaging them if I tried towel dropping them. After my first run with this mold I was very unhappy but now that I have a frim grasp of what it takes to get her to run I am extremely happy and Next run or two will be better yet. I have no doubt that this mold will out produce any of my other hollow point single cavity molds more than 2 to one. I hope this helps you other guys who are having trouble with boolits sticking to pins. Dennis

Orygun
01-23-2010, 10:26 PM
DE
Good report! Thanks.

azrednek
01-23-2010, 11:02 PM
DE
Good report! Thanks.

I'll second that, THX!!

Has anybody tried the mold with the pins down?? Range reports?? I'm a bit under the weather and haven't had a chance to use mine yet. One thing for sure after seeing Miha's remarkable workmanship. I'll be looking forward to having more of his molds.

Heavy lead
01-24-2010, 08:24 AM
My plain base isn't here yet, but I've worked with the gas check some, so far with frustration, I also experienced lots of sticking on the pins, not the same one either, but both in alternating fashion. There also is a lot of flash and seems to be quite a bit of slop around the pins, certainly this is vented well. In my case I think part of my dismal failure the first go round was I was casting too hot, of course got frustrated and finally just gave up. I'm going to give it another go today and be more patient and get the temperature right. I've had great results with Miha's other Cramer moulds, so I'm sure this will be fine, there is with my mould much more room around the pins though and I'm hoping this will work fine.

Groo
01-24-2010, 07:53 PM
Groo here
I tried to mold flat nose They drop easy and you don' need as much heat...

Groo
01-24-2010, 07:59 PM
Groo here
Lets keep the reports comming I went through 10lb trying to breakin the mold and hp pins
and got #2 good bullets that droped off - all others needed taken off with plyers

denul
01-24-2010, 10:28 PM
I tried the 41 caliber brass Cramer style Mihec HP today, with much the same experience described by some on this thread. I preheated the mold until he alloy would not stick to it at about 750 degrees, but the pins stuck from the very beginning. I found that when I carefully applied some of Veral's LBT mold lube or the liquid lube supplied with these molds, to the pins, that a few bullets would not stick, apparently until the lubricant wore or burned off. Then they stuck- and hard!

Although I was very reluctant doing it, I did use the pliers. I am afraid that it would be very easy to damage the mold cavities while pulling and twisting, and one could also bend the pins that way. How Groo managed to cast 10 pounds(if I read him correctly) by this method "surpasseth all understanding". I began to feel a little like the guy who only discovered mold handles after he'd been casting awhile; if I were a novice, my enthusiasm for bullet casting might have faded a bit.

This particular alloy of wheelweight has been a very good at filling my other molds fully, yet is reasonably soft at about BHN 11 in other bullets. I believe that the antimony content of the alloy may be responsible for my problems, because the shape of the pins will ultimately force the bullet into a bind in this very tight and excellent mold. I say that, because I have very flat bottoms on these plain based bullets, and there is no flashing, or bleeding into the vent lines. The alloy is expanding as it freezes into every available space, and when there is none, I believe that this particular pin's shape creates tension that seizes the bullet onto the pin. The lubricants helped temporarily, and a different alloy with less antimony would probably expand less. I think that a differently shaped pin, with more of a wedge than rounded tip, would help push the bullet away from the pin, rather than onto the pin when compressed from the walls of the mold cavity.

This might also explain the apparently contradictory results involving low temperatures being successful for one user and very high temperatures working for another. If the alloy was higher in antimony, rapidly operating a mold at high temperatures, without letting the bullet fully expand in the mold as it cooled, might be successful, as Miha described. Springfield, on the other hand, using almost pure lead, wouldn't have had the expansion and subsequent seizing, and so could get by with cooler operating temperatures. Like others, I couldn’t get the rapid speed needed to keep the molds hot because the pliers kept getting in the way.
Nothing I saw, or that anyone here has suggested, implies any bonding between metals like soldering; in other words, the alloy appears not to wet the pins. When the bullets are finally pulled free, no lead is left behind. That may explain the reported failures of Kroil and lubes, which are designed to prevent soldering, but would be less effective against seizing.
I believe that someone was saying on one of these posts that the 5 sided pins did not seem to do as badly. I have no way to turn these down myself, but if anyone knows how to get different pins, I certainly would be interested.

After I empty my pot of this alloy into the excellent Mihec 503 44 Keith SWC, and into the equally fine Mihec 45 ACP HP, I'll try some pure lead sheeting and report back here. Miha makes some very fine molds, and all of the above is just speculation on my part; more experimentation might clarify things, a little, at least for me. Nevertheless, I'm hoping for a different HP pin design on the upcoming Mihec GB's

Heavy lead
01-24-2010, 10:42 PM
I agree with denul, I've used plenty other hollow point moulds including Mihec's Cramer of other design, I believe the culprit is the shape of the hollow point pins, I think a more cone shaped pin is the answer here. One other observation after casting a 100 or so with the pins reversed, my mould is dropping a mite skinny. The front band is .408 to .409. The middle band is .410 dead on. I definately don't have the right gas checks the Hornady 416's I have are way too big, so I will have to wait on some Gator group buy checks. Hopefully my plain base will get here soon and it'll cast a little bigger. The alloy I'm using is 50/50 ww/pure with about 2% added tin and casts fat out of everything else, so I know the alloy is up to task. Anybody else's mould casting skinny?

Orygun
01-24-2010, 10:51 PM
Anybody else's mould casting skinny?

Mine are a little hard to measure with the plier marks and all. [smilie=1:

MiHec
01-25-2010, 07:59 AM
I agree with denul, I've used plenty other hollow point moulds including Mihec's Cramer of other design, I believe the culprit is the shape of the hollow point pins, I think a more cone shaped pin is the answer here. One other observation after casting a 100 or so with the pins reversed, my mould is dropping a mite skinny. The front band is .408 to .409. The middle band is .410 dead on. I definately don't have the right gas checks the Hornady 416's I have are way too big, so I will have to wait on some Gator group buy checks. Hopefully my plain base will get here soon and it'll cast a little bigger. The alloy I'm using is 50/50 ww/pure with about 2% added tin and casts fat out of everything else, so I know the alloy is up to task. Anybody else's mould casting skinny?


My molds are done for ww alloy.
I'm getting .413 to .4125 diam.

How hot is your mold??

Orygun
01-25-2010, 12:21 PM
My molds are done for ww alloy.
I'm getting .413 to .4125 diam.

How hot is your mold??

I imagine a lot of us want to use a softer alloy to try to get good expansion of the HP's. Like maybe 50/50 WW/Pb or 16:1 Pb/Sn. How hot are you suggesting?

Heavy lead
01-25-2010, 02:32 PM
Don't know, but I cast wide open and smokin', I was getting real good fillout and frosted boolits that looked great. When I get my plain base one I'll cast another go pile again with both moulds. I'm about ready to go on vacation so it'll be when I get back. I'm in no big yank.

Groo
01-25-2010, 03:12 PM
Groo here
I just got about 5lb of solids by setting heat at 800 and reducing my tin [master xx pot]
Hollow points still stick most times... maby the mold gets too hot fast as my first
bollets with a cooler mold seem to release byt stick as I get going...

Heavy lead
01-26-2010, 07:47 PM
I have not cast any more since my previous post, nor probably will until I get back from vacation in a week and half, however, I wanted to clarify some things about it. I very much appreciate Miha's craftsmanship, effort, and care of his enterprise and moulds he produces, in no way do I want him, nor anyone to think I unsatisfied as I'm not, I realize that machinery sometimes needs working with to get right. I'm not done working with this mould and even though right now my boolits are not coming out right I do not wish to indicate I'm slighted in the least.

Maybe this post was not needed, but I wanted to post to Thank Miha for his extraordinary effort, quality, care and value his products give us. This one may need a little more effort, but I'm confident I'll get it to work correctly. I want to make sure you (Miha) realize I (I'm sure others too) appreciate your efforts especially through the language, culture and logistics barrier most of us have from you.

GLynn41
01-26-2010, 10:06 PM
A question but first I too thank Miha -- I am not fussing about him --jsut trying to get the HP to work better-- tonight _ cast for 45 minutes -- I made and kept 62 boolits-- --that is all -- I was casting one solid and one HP -- I tried going down to 7.5 on my Lee dipping pot , worse sticking-- 8 on the pot --still bad-- 8.5 still bad 9 some better and the max which is 9+- was again a little bit better- but still I had to use pliers on every one and as I cast it got worse--- and the only throw backs I had where the ones I had to destroy to remove from the pin---- I tried polishing the pin with 4 o steel wool -- I tried them clean and smoked- no joy -- the mold is great -- easy to cast and near perfect fill every time -- weighs constant--HP are now at 194 and the solid at 221 grs- at .412- but the release!!!!?? Now my question -- the pins seem to not be steel? they feel different -- could it be the material in the pins themselves--are these the same as his other HP molds and I have heard nothing on the other Miha molds- I really like my custom mold but I hate to use a pair of pliers on a great boolit--- one observation i did something I have never done in 32 years of casting-- I can open the mold and my HP pin is in the front cav--and by the time I get the solid to release not a problem -- I can touch the front HP boolit in the mold and not be burned- I can not touch the mold but I did try and it is not near as hot after casting for 45 minutes as My Lyman or my Mountain Mold-I would not dare try to touch them- I was casting as quickly as the front cavity would let me-- and the pot was at 9 --curious
--next i hope to shoot some of these critters in the next few days and that will be real fun too any Ideas on the pin material--?

Orygun
01-26-2010, 10:57 PM
Well, the pins are certainly attracted to a magnet. They do seem a little rough, but I haven't tried polishing them...yet.

MiHec
01-27-2010, 02:58 AM
Pins are steel. It is blued.

It is same material as I used for other molds.

RugerFan
01-27-2010, 10:07 AM
Miha,
Any chance we could purchase an additional set of HP pins? Maybe something more cone shaped? Hexagonal?

GLynn41
01-27-2010, 10:53 AM
Thanks about the pins just asking - just wondering -- will move on --although I do not now know what else to do --- my pins are very smooth -it was suggested that maybe some tin would help when I find some tin =-- will try that --but man I hate to get those pliers anywhere near that great mold-- now if I can just find time to shoot some--or rather if the weather will let me-- I think I am going on a boar hunt in March and would like to use the solids out this mold in my 41/44- should easily break 1500 if I so choose--time will tell

MiHec
01-27-2010, 04:49 PM
Miha,
Any chance we could purchase an additional set of HP pins? Maybe something more cone shaped? Hexagonal?

I will draw something up and post it.

Could be the 5 sided....

Blammer
01-27-2010, 05:51 PM
Glynn41, if you have a propane torch or MAP gas handy I'd hit the base of the pins with the torch to heat them up a bit, maybe it will help with them releasing.

GLynn41
01-27-2010, 06:08 PM
copy that Blammer -- will put it one the list to try

Groo
01-27-2010, 06:17 PM
Groo here
I would be in for a pair of 5-sided pins,
Consider this a list start.......
Ps maybe they need to be flat on the bottom ??????
Also if they work well -- same on all future molds??????
They should open quicker with whatever mix and blow off if real hard and fast [like a Nosler]

Blammer
01-27-2010, 08:33 PM
and if all else fails send it to me.. :)

Rico1950
01-27-2010, 09:58 PM
I'm in also for the additional pins.

Heavy lead
01-27-2010, 10:58 PM
Anybody figure out what gas check works best, the only ones I have (Hornady 416) are a dismal failure.

GLynn41
01-28-2010, 02:18 PM
i am using the GB gator checks- Lyman style-- i too can not use the Hornady-- the gator .416 are sorta ok these others are just right--sounds like the three bears

giz189
01-28-2010, 10:23 PM
Just received my Plain Base today. Cleaned it, heated it and started using it. Was a little tricky until I got it hot. I do not have a problem with frosted bullets, seems they shoot as well as non frosted and they are the same hardness {8 bhn} as not frosted. Weighed the same 192 gr + or - half a grain. Measured .412 with this alloy. I could not be happier with this mould. Thanks Miha for a great mould. Can't wait to shoot some.

Orygun
01-28-2010, 10:40 PM
I'm sure we ALL want to know.....were they HP's or solid?

GLynn41
01-29-2010, 11:31 AM
at that wight they would seem have to HPs /////I cast again last night -- before I did I took some 600 grit sand paper-- and polished the already smooth pin __I still cast one and one-- even smoother-- result-- well the first boolit just fell off- the rest -- well hitting the handle screw would not dislodge them so I quit- trying-- just the lightest touch with the pliers and off they came unmarked-- now there is no blue on the pin -- sorry MIHA
but they did come off very well- I am now going to polish at the top of the pin where it widens--I have not weighed them but visually I had 0 rejects--before I put GC on I will normally weigh a lot of them-- I have three other custom molds -- not many for some I know -- but MP is at the top of them all--good mold

giz189
01-30-2010, 01:31 AM
I'm sure we ALL want to know.....were they HP's or solid?Sorry, did not specify, but yes, they are hollow points. And egads!!!!! what a hollow point. Don't waqnt to be on receiving end of that bugger. Plan to shoot tomorrow into sand and plastic water jugs filled with water. Will post info on accuracy and expansion when done.:Fire:

GLynn41
01-30-2010, 08:32 AM
.
yepper that is for sure a hollow point--being in ARk did you not get some of the snow and ice I have in west Tn-- I am going to wait until mid week and then go--but glad your going

giz189
01-30-2010, 11:30 PM
.
yepper that is for sure a hollow point--being in ARk did you not get some of the snow and ice I have in west Tn-- I am going to wait until mid week and then go--but glad your goingNah, to far South forthe ice, nothing but rain and I got rained out today too.

GLynn41
01-31-2010, 03:46 PM
nick named the mold the flying hole mold or the black hole mold--because of the HP

GLynn41
01-31-2010, 08:43 PM
while I still have not shot any -- I had another short casting session this evening- I have now polished both pins and will do a little more -- they still do not just drop so I quit trying- I open the mold and the push one set of pins out take the pliers and a light twist and pull and off it comes then I do the second and then I close for my next pour--- even at this I can do about 3 pours a minute -or 6 boolits a minute-- not a record but with my 20 # dipping pot in 45 min to an hour I will have a fair amount of bullets-- 250 to 300 or so -- so several castings will carry me for a good while -- I normally shoot 20-30 .41s and 20 or 41/44s-- and maybe a rifle-- so for now this is my method and the pot is run 8.5 -9 --boolits weigh 193-194 gr- now if I can just shoot some of these -- as i want to see how they shoot and what they do in wet paper etc etc etc --aka the King and I

giz189
02-02-2010, 12:48 AM
Got to shoot some of my plain base boolitts yesterday afternoon. Shot at 25 yards into bags of sand box play sand like you buy at wally world for the kids and a piece of very season hickory wood. Best group for the 2 dozen I loaded was 2" at 25 yds. Had trouble with vertical stringing but I was not very steady yesterday either. Will try again when hopefully I am a little more steady. Results were, boolitts recovered from wood had mushrooms broken off down to the solid part of bulet. Boolitts from sand generally had 1 petal of 3 left. Recovered boolitts weighed from 100 to 162 grains. Also, had a little sticky extraction with 2 or 3 of them. Used 17.5 grs of 2400, been using this load with 210 grs with no trouble. Gonna back off a grain and try again. Hey Glynn, take a small piece of 400 wet or dry sand paper, polish the pins til shiny, then put some flitz or something similar on them and polish with a cleaning patch or something, until near mirror finish, run hot and they should fall off with one or two taps on the handle. Just got a digital camera and as soon as I figure out how to hook it up to computer, I can post pictures, maybe. Let us know how your tests turn out.

GLynn41
02-02-2010, 10:22 AM
cool copy that

dutch41
02-02-2010, 02:23 PM
Has anyone compared the angle of the .41 pins to the pins from the 200 gr. .45 mold?
The pins that came with mine (.41) have a 3° taper per side. Haven't had a chance to cast with it yet. Don't know if this may be why some people are having problems with the bullets releasing.

I think most people have had good luck with the .45 mold.


Scott

JudgeBAC
02-02-2010, 09:56 PM
I too suspected that the angle of the pins might be the culprit. I decided to get an unbiased opinion so I sent the mold to Eric Ohlen at hollowpointmold.com.

Here was Erics reply:

Hi. You mold arrived here this afternoon-that guy makes a nice
mold!
I was able simply to re-cut your pins to a proper angle.

I mailed this mold to Eric last Friday. He recut the pins and sent the mold back to me today.

Please note that I am not being critical of Mias work. Eric recognized his excellent workmanship. It looks like the angle might not have been the correct choice for this particular bullet. At any rate I will report on how it works when it returns.

This certainly will not keep me from purchasing further molds from Mia. This will be a valuable learning experience for all of us.

GLynn41
02-02-2010, 10:47 PM
me either -- If happens to be something I want -no problem

dutch41
02-03-2010, 12:08 AM
Judge

Any idea what they where recut to? Angle, radius on the tip etc.

Thanks for any info.

Scott

MiHec
02-03-2010, 04:01 AM
Hmmm.....

I just follow the original design from 45 2.1. Not to blame him for anything at all.

But the case is that I tried to cast and I had no problem.

In the future I will do more tapper on pins - it is no problem for me.


As I say I will try to do a 5 sided pins for this one, also.

JudgeBAC
02-03-2010, 08:31 AM
When the mold comes back, I will post pics.

Groo
02-03-2010, 10:11 PM
Groo here
No problem MiHec !!!
How many people use a hollow point mold to start with??
Even if the hollow point will not work for me I still think the mold is the best of
all the ones I have and I will be getting more of your products...
I look forward to the 5 sided pins......

GLynn41
02-03-2010, 10:36 PM
actually i do-- it is why I wanted the mold in the first place --so it is aobut I make -- but I am good with all

denul
02-04-2010, 07:14 PM
I was able to confirm the experience of MiHec and others regarding higher temperature casting with this particular mold and its pins.

Testing with the original pins again today, with RCBS furnace set at maximum, I was able to get reasonable production rates as long as the bullets remained frosted. I started by heating the mold for about 10 minutes in the lead, and the first bullets were dropping right off the pins with only a tap On the hinge joint. To keep the mold hot, I tried to cast as quickly as possible, by cutting sprues much sooner than I ever have.The liquid prep accompanying the mold did an excellent job of protecting mold surfaces from smearing of lead.

I found it necessary to reheat the mold in the lead for about 15 seconds, after every 20 or 25 casts. If this was not performed, the bullets would begin to stick and require more tapping, until they would finally sieze and require removal with pliers.

My alloy might be part of the problem, because I believe that it is quite hard; it is probably too cold to be casting outside at about 35 degrees, and would be much easier to keep the mold hot if the ambient temperature was 50 degrees higher.

In spite of these findings, I agree with the last few posts, that the taper of the pins,is probably the most important factor in improving performance of these molds. I believe temperature and alloy problems would diminish or disappear if the shape of the pins was such that siezing could not occur.

I am really looking forward to Mihec offering either 5 sided or tapered pins for this excellent mold.

GLynn41
02-04-2010, 10:36 PM
did you mean to say "I started by heating the mold for about 10 minutes in the lead" wow after that the mold ought to be hot// I normally count to 20-30 seconds-- never consider that much time-- is there, would there, could there any effects on the mold blocks? Just asking now do not get any bad vibes as if you say it works I am good---I have really polished my pins and will try them again tomorrow- and I will set the mold on top as often I do -- sometimes I am lazy and do not do that-- and dip the mold for a some what longer time period and see how it goes-- I too find the 5 sided pins interesting --you said you alloy was hard if do not mind what is the as cast weight of the boolits you are getting--my alloy is soft and mine run about 194+ in the Hollow Point

Blammer
02-04-2010, 10:42 PM
touch the sprue plate to a damp sponge to help harden sprue sooner and not cool rest of mould.

hamour
02-04-2010, 11:45 PM
On the 44-444 300gr hpt the bullets drop right off with no problem, I love mine. It is the reason I am getting the .41 and .44 hpt molds.

denul
02-05-2010, 08:52 AM
GLynn 41-


Thank you for your concern, and no offense taken at your inquiry. I should have stated that I do not recommend running molds that hot that long, and I have never before yesterday placed a mold in the melt for that length of time. I don't believe it caused any problems at all with the mold, because the bullets look good, without seams or obvious deformities,and the mold still closes and opens very smoothly and solidly. Might not have been as lucky with aluminum.

My bullet weight is 194.6 as an average of 4 bullets. It tested at BHN less than 10, much softer than I expected, even given the fact that they were air cooled and only cast yesterday. I am sure that they will harden some over time, but my alloy may not be all that different from yours after all.

I intend to wait for new pins, and warmer weather, before trying further with this mold. I do not intend to heat any mold this hot again, because of the risk you mention and because of the general aggravation of this method.

hamour
02-05-2010, 10:27 AM
The beauty of the mold style, just turn the pins around and cast some FN until new pins show up.

GLynn41
02-05-2010, 12:26 PM
Well said Hamour --about the heat _ I have a Mountain Mold that is brass -- it heats slower than aluminum-- but when it gets hot it is hot- and stays that way/// I do have it seems a a harder time keeping this one hot much less really hot -- so it is different but as long as it casts well do not care

azrednek
02-05-2010, 02:15 PM
Sorry I haven't been able to add my two-cents to this thread. I've just been to busy to fire up my lead pot. What little free time I've had recently has been spent at the range. Despite the problems most seem to be satisfied with Miha's quality and workmanship. Hopefully after the mold is returned from Eric @ Hollowpoint we will have a fix for the sticking problem. I'm certainly looking forward to my next mold from Miha.

JudgeBAC
02-05-2010, 07:15 PM
Here are some pics of the pins modified by Erik Ohlen at hollowpointmolds.com

giz189
02-06-2010, 12:29 AM
Has anyone loaded any of these bullets and shot them yet? I have shot about 50 or so. First ones loaded with 17.5 grs of 2400. These were somewhat hotter than I like. Had hard time pushing empties out of N frame. Have been using 16.5 grs 2400 in a 240 Keith than I got at MM with no problems. So, I loaded the next batch up with 16.0 grs of 2400; still a little sticky extraction but not nearly as much as with 17.5 grs. So, next round is loaded with 14.5 grs. Hope to shoot it tomorrow if it quits raining long enough for me to run out and put up target. Do these bullets have longer bearing surface or what is going on? I havebeen shooting 2400 for 25 years with 16 - 18 grains in a 210 to 240 cast and 170 to 210 J word bullets with no signs of pressure. Could be the global warming I guess. Oh, also lighter loaded rounds were consideably more accurate too.

JudgeBAC
02-06-2010, 10:22 AM
giz: The Lyman third edition lists the 215 gr. 410610 (which is a gas check boolit) with a max of 16.2 gr. of 2400.

It also lists the 200 gr. 3/4 jacket Speer at a max of 17.8 gr of 2400. The starting load is 16 gr.

My rule of thumb for using jacketed bullet data for cast is to use the jacketed starting load as the MAX cast load. I reduce the starting jacketed load by 10% and work up from there.

GLynn41
02-06-2010, 11:48 AM
I wondered about the bearing surface---my MM mold is great but it too has a lot bearing surfce-- not bad -- should help with accuracy-- but may slow them down-- and it does effect powder charge-- GRIZ189 what was your loaded boolit diameter?

giz189
02-06-2010, 12:36 PM
I wondered about the bearing surface---my MM mold is great but it too has a lot bearing surfce-- not bad -- should help with accuracy-- but may slow them down-- and it does effect powder charge-- GRIZ189 what was your loaded boolit diameter?averages out to about .4105

giz189
02-06-2010, 12:44 PM
giz: The Lyman third edition lists the 215 gr. 410610 (which is a gas check boolit) with a max of 16.2 gr. of 2400.

It also lists the 200 gr. 3/4 jacket Speer at a max of 17.8 gr of 2400. The starting load is 16 gr.

My rule of thumb for using jacketed bullet data for cast is to use the jacketed starting load as the MAX cast load. I reduce the starting jacketed load by 10% and work up from there.Hey JudgeBAC, I too was looking at the Lyman 3rd Edition Cast Boolitt Handbook and it shows on page 274: #410610 Start with 2400 @ 14.2 and max @ 18.8 #410459 Start at 15.7 max @ 20.1 #410426 Start @ 14.0 Max @18.5 These are 215gr 220gr 240gr respectively. They also are Linotype and my alloy is a lot softer. Whatever it was causing it, I have not shot it over the chronograph because of rain every day. But I have definitely reduced powder charge in my loads.:cbpour:

Groo
02-06-2010, 02:19 PM
Groo here
We have the "Great White Death" here in Ohio.
I can't even get to my casting shed- but every 41 guy I show this boolitt to
does the "OOOMMMGGG" thing..
I hope we can fix the pin problem [5 sided??]
As A Side-- I have found that if I crimp infront of the front driving band the bullet will fit my
short cylinder [357 NV Ruger] conversions SORRY for the comments...

denul
02-06-2010, 04:34 PM
giz189-

Based on your post, I fired 2 cylinders full through a S & W 8-3/8 model 57 with no problems, at 16.5 gr, then worked up to 18 gr. No trouble extracting, primers are still partly rounded with recoil shield impressions.( not flattened). They seem accurate, but haven't braved the wind and snow to set up targets. I did put one through a 5/4 piece of kiln dried white oak, and the destruction is unbelievable. Will try to post pics of that later. This load was very fine in a 6- 1/2 Ruger BH as well. No leading at all with either gun after 30 rounds, with fewer than usual grains of unburned 2400. One last round,of one cylinder full only, in the BH backed out a very small amount; may be a fluke, if not, probably can be cured with tighter crimp.

Details:
BHN 10, weight 194, HP PB sized .410, LBT lube, (slip fit in Smith and Ruger) roll crimped in groove, WW LP primer, 18 GR Hercules 2400; the old stuff, which many say is slower than the current Alliant 2400. My chronograph is a fair weather proposition only; sorry no velocities yet.

Still need better pins ( Miha?) but this is one fabulous mold.

Hope this helps; will post more later.

Heavy lead
02-06-2010, 10:41 PM
Got home from vacation late last night and today my plain base was here, did the normal stuff and cast up 50 or so, flat nose, not hollow point. The mould broke in very well and casts .413 on the base and second band, the front band cast at .410 on the nose, and this is all good, anyway I have 50 loaded up and I'm going to the range tomorrow, so I'll let everyone know. Tomorrow I will hit both again with the hollow point pins. I must say this is a very handsome boolit, the design just looks like it will shoot, that may sound stupid, but that's my take on it. Solid point sized and lubed with BAC it weighs in at 220 exactly.

giz189
02-06-2010, 11:55 PM
giz189-

Based on your post, I fired 2 cylinders full through a S & W 8-3/8 model 57 with no problems, at 16.5 gr, then worked up to 18 gr. No trouble extracting, primers are still partly rounded with recoil shield impressions.( not flattened). They seem accurate, but haven't braved the wind and snow to set up targets. I did put one through a 5/4 piece of kiln dried white oak, and the destruction is unbelievable. Will try to post pics of that later. This load was very fine in a 6- 1/2 Ruger BH as well. No leading at all with either gun after 30 rounds, with fewer than usual grains of unburned 2400. One last round,of one cylinder full only, in the BH backed out a very small amount; may be a fluke, if not, probably can be cured with tighter crimp.

Details:
BHN 10, weight 194, HP PB sized .410, LBT lube, (slip fit in Smith and Ruger) roll crimped in groove, WW LP primer, 18 GR Hercules 2400; the old stuff, which many say is slower than the current Alliant 2400. My chronograph is a fair weather proposition only; sorry no velocities yet.

Still need better pins ( Miha?) but this is one fabulous mold.

Hope this helps; will post more later.My primers did not show any flattening or cratering either. Used WW Large Pistol for reg or mag loads. Normally use cci 300 just had some left over a friend had given me. After my first cylinder full, I had to use a set of side cutters with the insulated handles to bump on the extractor pin to eject my empties. Second round of loads I could dump with my hand force, but was still a lot harder than usual. Have not fired my 3rd loading yet as weather has been wet and I want to set up my chrono to check velocity. Also measured case at web and it measured .434 book shows .435at web. I am thinking I might have had to much roll crimp on loaded rounds. I guess time will tell. You are right about this mould and bullet though, I have been blowing the back out of a good size gum tree. I really like it.

Heavy lead
02-07-2010, 04:27 PM
Well at 7 degrees (luckily high skies and no wind) I ventured out this morning with the new Mihec plain base in front of my normal plinker of a RP large pistol primer and 8.5 grains of Unique and my 6" 657. These were cast flat nose and weighed 220 grains, I also use this load with the NEI 411-220 Keith. Very accurate 1" to 1.5" groups at 25 yards were normal, it was colder than _____________________ fill in the blank, so I wasn't at my best either. Had a great lube star from the first round fired and absolutely no leading out of 50 rounds fired, with the NEI, I would've had a little, I believe that is caused by the Keith square shoulder and not as good of alignment as this LFN design. The front driving band on mine is .410 and the .4105 sizer doesn't touch it. The boolit, lube and gun all seem to mesh, I will kick it up a notch next weekend and load some 2400 loads up.

Second note: I cast more with the gas check design today after another good cleaning with some Zud, this boolit now is a might fatter (I was experiencing undersized boolits before, I attribute that to the mould not having all the oil out on hindsight) I'm getting a solid .413 plus on the first two bands while the front band is fatter than the plainbase as the sizer hits it in a couple places where it doesn't touch the plainbase, no biggy in either case.
Anyway, I was saddened that I had no checks yet (the .416 Hornady's I have won't work) and I got to thinking (sometimes dangerous) and for the heck of it I tried some Gator 44 checks, I used a Lee push through sizer (reamed out to .415) to seat them and then ran them through the lubesizer (Lyman 450 with a .4105 sizer) and perfection, they work, in fact so well I may not even bother with ordering the Gator 41's. I will load these for next weekend as well over a more load worthy of the 657, and run them in all three that I have.

I haven't worked with the hollow point pins but note one interesting thing, I dipped the gas check mould in the melt to bring it to temperature and after the casting session was all done there was still lead stuck to it after the cool down, and I mean stuck, almost soldered to it, that seems strange to me, just an observation.

Heavy lead
02-07-2010, 04:42 PM
Has anyone loaded any of these bullets and shot them yet? I have shot about 50 or so. First ones loaded with 17.5 grs of 2400. These were somewhat hotter than I like. Had hard time pushing empties out of N frame. Have been using 16.5 grs 2400 in a 240 Keith than I got at MM with no problems. So, I loaded the next batch up with 16.0 grs of 2400; still a little sticky extraction but not nearly as much as with 17.5 grs. So, next round is loaded with 14.5 grs. Hope to shoot it tomorrow if it quits raining long enough for me to run out and put up target. Do these bullets have longer bearing surface or what is going on? I havebeen shooting 2400 for 25 years with 16 - 18 grains in a 210 to 240 cast and 170 to 210 J word bullets with no signs of pressure. Could be the global warming I guess. Oh, also lighter loaded rounds were consideably more accurate too.

giz189,
I haven't loaded up any heavy loads, nor have I loaded any hollow points yet, this is a very large hollow point, I'm thinking out loud so to speak here, but do you think it is possible that it is starting to open up in the barrel and the front end is swaging into the rifleing causing a pressure spike?
Like I said, just a question, how hard are your loads?
The bearing length on this boolit seems pretty short to me, it has a fairly long nose.

giz189
02-08-2010, 12:03 AM
giz189,
I haven't loaded up any heavy loads, nor have I loaded any hollow points yet, this is a very large hollow point, I'm thinking out loud so to speak here, but do you think it is possible that it is starting to open up in the barrel and the front end is swaging into the rifleing causing a pressure spike?
Like I said, just a question, how hard are your loads?
The bearing length on this boolit seems pretty short to me, it has a fairly long nose.I have been having the very same thoughts, as my alloy is only BHN of 8. Also, I could not keep my hands off those pins after looking at JudgeBACs', after thinkling about this for a while, I modified my pins almost exactly like JudgeBAC had Eric do his. Now, when I open the mold, the front bullet almost always falls off with no help from me and the rear one only has to have a very light tap compared to what it took for it to fall previously. My bullets now cast at 200grs HP. Previously 192 -193 grs. Looking at it from the front end, it doesn't look like it is much smaller than original. Might not have to run so hot now, but I really do like this bullet. Probably will harden alloy up a couple of points after I test these different boolitts out, if still having trouble.:drinks:

45 2.1
02-08-2010, 07:41 AM
I haven't loaded up any heavy loads, nor have I loaded any hollow points yet, this is a very large hollow point, I'm thinking out loud so to speak here, but do you think it is possible that it is starting to open up in the barrel and the front end is swaging into the rifleing causing a pressure spike? Ya'll need to wait a week or two so that the boolits can cure out before you shoot them. Really soft boolits do what he wrote about.
Like I said, just a question, how hard are your loads?
The bearing length on this boolit seems pretty short to me, it has a fairly long nose. The lands engrave the nose in the barrel a good ways up the nose. There is plenty of bearing length there.

On the hollow point......... These were designed before the cramer type pin was used a lot. They are meant to perform like a Nosler partition in that the nose will blow off within the first 6 inch of penetration and the base will go out the other side. You get the maximum benefit of killing power for small game like that, but they are not ideal if your wanting to punch thru a moose or grizzly. By taking material off the lower part of the pin, you will slow the HP expansion and change the way it performs (which is OK for larger game, but not for varmints... either the two or four legged variety). Brass molds stay HOT........ You might cast at the lowest temperature that you can get good boolits at. The boolit will release off the pin as the boolit cools.......... it does no good to cast hot and expect the boolits to drop off the pin immediately. Ross Seyfried wrote an article on the "magic mold" ie a bronze mold core with a blind parallel hole with no halves...... the boolit creeped out of that hole under its own weight in about 30 seconds. Something to be said for that. For those that want a more tapered pin.... I will send Mihec the particulars that i've learned about that so he can provide it.... at a cost of less performance also.

GLynn41
02-08-2010, 09:31 AM
a slight gain weight or HP design will not bother me -- as I want them just to shoot and to deer hunt - I still have not shot any but hope this week --how sad for me:oops:

Heavy lead
02-08-2010, 01:35 PM
The bearing length on this boolit seems pretty short to me, it has a fairly long nose. The lands engrave the nose in the barrel a good ways up the nose. There is plenty of bearing length there.

45 2.1 Didn't want you to think I was saying the bearing length was too short, I don't think it is, so far I'm real happy with this boolit, I've only shot flat nose so far, buy my 657 likes it.

giz189
02-08-2010, 07:19 PM
Thanks for the input 45 2.1. Actually, I have no complaints with this bullet. I am just a chronic "tinkerer". I figured if I messed it up, I would just buy another set of pins from Miha. I think you guys who design and build these molds are great. I just wish I could do it. As you said, these were designed to have the nose blow off like a partition, and they do it very well. The ones I shot into the wood and sand did just what you described, all but 1 i recovered had lost most of the nose. I think 2 still had what i call a petal left. Great doins' Please keep it up.

giz189
02-13-2010, 01:09 AM
Hey guys, just a little follow up on the 14.5 grain load of 2400 with this bullet. Excellent accuracy andno more sticky extractions. Still have not shot it over the chrono and have not figured out the extraction problems with the heavier loads. The more I shoot it, the better I like it.

GLynn41
02-13-2010, 01:52 PM
I got to shoot yesterday-- with two loads of AA#9 and H110-- -- the HP and AA9 did great --have not really tried the Solids- yet-- the H110 loads were good but not as much so as the AA rounds-- -- I used them in my >41 GNR-(41/44) mvs were 1540+ for the Hps -- will try some solids today as well some more HPs then I will have to cast some-- for my GNR this will be a good boolit for deer - as it warms I will test the expansion and work on the alloy-- I think I know what my charges will be already -- I really like AA#9 so much that I wonder why I use any thing else

DeadWood
02-14-2010, 12:53 AM
Does anyone know who i could contact to see if this mold is still available?

thanks

Dennis Eugene
02-14-2010, 02:03 AM
yep, you can contact MiHec. last i heard he still had a few molds left. Also check post 131 of this thread http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=58158 Dennis

Heavy lead
02-14-2010, 06:03 PM
I fired 100 rounds more today of the plain base in flat nose, it is, I'm glad to say simply boring. I benched 20 rounds in an open sighted 6" barrel 657 with open sights and put all but a couple fliers in a 2" group, the fliers were on me. This was at 25 yards. The remaining 80 were all shot double action, fairly quick at the same target, the bull (a 3" square) was gone, 90% of the rounds went into it. No leading. Don't believe I've ever had a more accurate boolit,at least this easy with any alloy/lube/alloy combination.
Remington 2.5, 8.5 grains of Unique, sized .4105, BAC lube. I really like this design a lot. I gotta work up some power loads now with some 'Lil Gun, 2400, and maybe some 296 too, with both the checked and the plain base.

45 2.1
02-15-2010, 09:10 AM
Anyway, I was saddened that I had no checks yet (the .416 Hornady's I have won't work)

I had to make a tapered punch to spread the inside top of the gas check. If you do that, they will work and fit right. I used them exclusively with a special order GC mold for an old Sharps caliber rifle.

denul
02-15-2010, 10:09 AM
Yesterday I took this one hunting, not for game, but for a break in the clouds. I really must have looked ridiculous, with a loaded 8 and three eighths inch Smith & Wesson model 57, staring at the chronograph and the sky, looking for distinct shadows. Anyway, I was able to get six shots off in about forty five minutes, and nineteen gr of old Hercules 2400, behind this bullet resulted in velocities in the mid 1300's. I saw no sign of excessive pressure, but did not have the opportunity to try this for target accuracy. These are Remmington brass, Winchester primers, and the bullets now are two weeks old at a bhn of thirteen.

I fired several others, for a total of about thirty rounds, at long distance targets. They seemed to reach out very well at one hundred yards. There is no sign of any leading using LBT lube.

Does anyone here know if Miha will make different shape pins to help with the sticking problem? And does anyone here know if there is a chronograph commercially available that will work in overcast weather?. I would like to avoid the infrared screens, but that may be the only real option here.

giz189
02-15-2010, 11:55 AM
Hey denul, what was your alloy? Mine shot really well with 14.5 grains of 2400 the last time I shot it. My alloy is bhn 8, but I am gonna harden it up to straight wheel weight and see if that does not fix the sticky extraction I was having with 16.5 grs of 2400.

denul
02-15-2010, 04:59 PM
giz189 -

Sorrry that I cannot report accurately on my alloy; I have 3 separate patches of wheelweight, linotype, and something in between that I bought from a departed, but unknown caster. I believed this alloy to be wheelweight, but now have some doubts, because it has hardened so much since I cast the bullets. It started out at a BHN of 9, and now is at 13. That makes me wonder if it is pure wheelweight, which usually tops out at about 11 for me. I am satisfied with its performance, but I realize that others would probably want a softer alloy for the gentler expansion of the hollow point. By chance, has your alloy hardened since casting?

I also wonder if the extreme heat I was using to get the bullets to drop (sometimes) may have somehow increased the hardening. They are still air cooled only, but with colder air and a hotter mold, perhaps the speedier cooling affects the ultimate hardening of the bullets.

I admit that I was skeptical when I read of the possibility of the hollow point "slugging up" to completely fill the rifling and thereby increasing pressures, but I'm not so sure anymore. I don't think that it has happened with mine because of the appearance of a few bullets holes in cardboard. If they had completely slugged up, they would probably be sharp around the edges like target wadcutters. Mine have the typical indistinct edges of the round nose or LFN designs. Nevertheless, that could be the explanation for your problems with higher doses of 2400. I'm kind of intrigued with Accurate Arms 4100, and will be trying it soon. I would be very interested in the results of your 14.5 gr loads of 2400, when and if you can get to a working chronograph.

If you would like, I'll try to load some of mine with 14.5 of 2400 and chronograph them sometime. Sounds like a good load from your description. I have an old model 58 that is not for the heavier loads - Denul

Valley Forge
02-15-2010, 06:03 PM
Miha, if I'm not too late I would like to buy one of these .41 moulds to add to my MP collection.

Rico1950
02-15-2010, 08:25 PM
Some are,were available on his website last night.

Heavy lead
02-15-2010, 10:00 PM
I had to make a tapered punch to spread the inside top of the gas check. If you do that, they will work and fit right. I used them exclusively with a special order GC mold for an old Sharps caliber rifle.

I don't know how they will work, but I'll find out next weekend, but on a whim I used some Gator 44 checks, ran them through a Lee push through I've opened up for my .416 Rigby, then ran them through the .4105 sizing die in the Lyman 450, they seem to fit fine and look right, with little effort. I'll let everyone know how they shoot, this maybe a easy fix, and a lot easier to find.

giz189
02-17-2010, 06:11 AM
giz189 -

Sorrry that I cannot report accurately on my alloy; I have 3 separate patches of wheelweight, linotype, and something in between that I bought from a departed, but unknown caster. I believed this alloy to be wheelweight, but now have some doubts, because it has hardened so much since I cast the bullets. It started out at a BHN of 9, and now is at 13. That makes me wonder if it is pure wheelweight, which usually tops out at about 11 for me. I am satisfied with its performance, but I realize that others would probably want a softer alloy for the gentler expansion of the hollow point. By chance, has your alloy hardened since casting?

I also wonder if the extreme heat I was using to get the bullets to drop (sometimes) may have somehow increased the hardening. They are still air cooled only, but with colder air and a hotter mold, perhaps the speedier cooling affects the ultimate hardening of the bullets.

I admit that I was skeptical when I read of the possibility of the hollow point "slugging up" to completely fill the rifling and thereby increasing pressures, but I'm not so sure anymore. I don't think that it has happened with mine because of the appearance of a few bullets holes in cardboard. If they had completely slugged up, they would probably be sharp around the edges like target wadcutters. Mine have the typical indistinct edges of the round nose or LFN designs. Nevertheless, that could be the explanation for your problems with higher doses of 2400. I'm kind of intrigued with Accurate Arms 4100, and will be trying it soon. I would be very interested in the results of your 14.5 gr loads of 2400, when and if you can get to a working chronograph.

If you would like, I'll try to load some of mine with 14.5 of 2400 and chronograph them sometime. Sounds like a good load from your description. I have an old model 58 that is not for the heavier loads - DenulI have been checking my alloy for hardening, but it has not happened appreciably as of yesterday. However, I dumped my 40 - 1 alloy and used some straight ww with about 2 ozs of tin and air cooled. Have not shot any of those yet. Probably will tomorrow. It would be interesting to see what the differences are between the two revolvers and the two chronos with 14.5 grains of 2400. I will shoot mine over chrono tomorrow and post results.

giz189
02-17-2010, 12:17 PM
denul, I shot the rounds that i had left from my loading of 14.5 grs of 2400. The results are as follows:Highest 1022 Low 875 Avg 945 Ex Spr 147 SD 49. I only had 6 rounds loaded for now. Then I fired 6 rounds of my 240gr bullet with 16.5grs of 2400. Results: low 1229 hi 1263 avg 1248 extreme spread 35 sd 12. The 14.5 gr load is going to be a good all around totin' with you load. Light recoil and good accuracy. I will work up some faster loads for deer and hog hunting with it later on.

GLynn41
02-17-2010, 02:45 PM
sounds good griz -- this is a suggestion -- we ought to try as we can to help MIHA move the left over molds -- because they are there because of confusion -- if we can -- he did well for

DeadWood
02-17-2010, 03:32 PM
I've been following this thread closely, wanting to eventually cast for this caliber. Nowing very little about molds and casting and already over my head and check book i am on the fence. Seems to me there are issues with even the most experience casters.

Has anyone figured out what or why the HP pin problem? if there is one

Are gas checks available and easy to find and where?

these are some of the issues i would like to here more about.

thanks
Kevin

Russel Nash
02-17-2010, 05:22 PM
What do these boolits end up weighing at?

Springfield.... I sent you a PM.

giz189
02-17-2010, 08:20 PM
Depending on alloy, in HP form about 192 - 200 grs. Haven't cast any solids yet. Think I figured out why I had pressure problems. I have never tried this before, but when I loaded my first rounds, I annealed the necks of the cases. Then used the same 24 for all loading and testing. Never annealed pistol brass before, what do ya'll think? Shot some more ww +2% tin today and got 1100fps avg with 16.5 grs 2400 and no sticky extraction, but used different cases for this load, rather than the ones I annealed.

denul
02-17-2010, 11:12 PM
Giz189-

Of all the variables we have considered concerning the difficult to extract cases in the 41 magnum, I believe that the annealed cases may be the most likely to cause the problem. Even under lower pressure situations, if the brass was more malleable, with less spring back, it seems likely that it could become more adherent to the cylinder walls after firing. Do you know if the 14.5 gr of 2400 loads that you chronographed were in the annealed brass? Compared to your 16.5 gr nodes, there was quite a bit more variability. It might also be that the soft brass could have provided inadequate case mouth tension for the bullet.

Just my two cents worth; but I sure appreciate the additional information and will post my chronograph results as soon as the sun comes out, hopefully before summer.

Years ago, I annealed .357 brass to form 22 Jet cases; a few of those that did not get converted seemed a lost cause when I tried them again, reloading as .357s. The soft brass caused problems like you described; I had forgotten about it until you mentioned it.

giz189
02-19-2010, 02:49 AM
Giz189-

Of all the variables we have considered concerning the difficult to extract cases in the 41 magnum, I believe that the annealed cases may be the most likely to cause the problem. Even under lower pressure situations, if the brass was more malleable, with less spring back, it seems likely that it could become more adherent to the cylinder walls after firing. Do you know if the 14.5 gr of 2400 loads that you chronographed were in the annealed brass? Compared to your 16.5 gr nodes, there was quite a bit more variability. It might also be that the soft brass could have provided inadequate case mouth tension for the bullet.

Just my two cents worth; but I sure appreciate the additional information and will post my chronograph results as soon as the sun comes out, hopefully before summer.

Years ago, I annealed .357 brass to form 22 Jet cases; a few of those that did not get converted seemed a lost cause when I tried them again, reloading as .357s. The soft brass caused problems like you described; I had forgotten about it until you mentioned it.Yes, they were in the annealed cases, as I used the same 24 cases for all of that shooting. By the time I chronographed them, they had been shot two times, since being annealed, with the chrono day firing being the third time for those particular 6 cases. I will not be annealing any more, probably, it just hit me that day that those cases were fairly old and had been reloaded a number of times. So, I thought I would try it. Probably won't do it on pistol cases again.

Southern Man
02-23-2010, 11:55 PM
Are there any of these GC molds for sale ?
Thanks , Southern Man

Cord
02-24-2010, 07:35 AM
Southern Man,

If you go to the MP moulds website to the "E-Shop" section,
there appear to be some left that you can order there.

Find a post by MiHec and right click on his name, and then
click the link to go to his website.

Or find one of the many other order links on old threads too.

hamour
02-24-2010, 08:03 AM
Are there any of these GC molds for sale ?
Thanks , Southern Man

Mihec has both the plain base and gas check molds available.

Here is a link to his ordering site

http://mp-molds.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=3&=SID

Southern Man
02-27-2010, 10:29 AM
Thanks guys . i've got one on the way. Now I need gas checks.

denul
03-03-2010, 03:27 PM
In post 53 , miha said he'd post drawings of another set of pins for this one. Anyone hear about that lately

Heavy lead
03-03-2010, 03:35 PM
Thanks guys . i've got one on the way. Now I need gas checks.

If you have some 44 checks try them, I'm using them, with enough success I won't buy the Gator thins. (I have Hornady .416's and they won't work). I run the boolit through a .416 sizer to seat the check, then run them in my .410 lubrasizer die and I'm done, fit and shoot fine.

TDC
03-04-2010, 01:09 AM
I started casting today with my .41 PB. I'd like to make a comment on how important casting at high temperature is for this mold.

I have two production pots and chose to use the small Lee for a short run. I heated the mold by dipping the blocks in the melt and cranked the thermostat up to its highest position. The boolits dropped off the pins perfectly for about 10 casting then became progressively more sticky until they finally refused to drop. The mold cavities had been well cleaned, smoked and the pins highly polished using 1000 grit sandpaper.

I dipped the blocks back into the melt, bringing the mold up to a higher temperature and the bollits dropped perfectly again. As the lead level declined in the pot I couldn't heat the blocks any longer using the melt and realized I needed to find another method of heating the mold if I was to continue.

I've found the brass mold seems to cool faster than the Lyman and RCBS molds I use and it must be kept up to a higher temperature when using the hollow point pins if they are to drop boolits properly.. I was unable in the cold weather to cast fast enough to maintain consistent mold temperature. If the mold cools to a level below the melt temperature the boolits refuse to drop easily off the hollow point pins. Temperature is critical with both the melt and the HP pins.

The mold drops absolutely beautiful boolits and they are very consistant in weight.

I'm interested in following this thread to see what you guys come up with for 41 loads. I've seen both new and old 2400 powder mentioned in this thread. I use both and would appreciate it if you guys would make it clear which of the two you are using. They give different results for me.. Thanks!

MiHec
03-04-2010, 05:21 AM
In post 53 , miha said he'd post drawings of another set of pins for this one. Anyone hear about that lately

I'm a little busy right now, but I have this in mind

GLynn41
03-05-2010, 11:35 AM
Hay TDC- I will try reheating as I cast-- but I have a Mountain Mold in brass for a .411 255 wfngc --mine seems to heat up slower than alum. molds and holds its heat very well -- of course it is not a hp'd ----I have cast a number of solids-- I often leave one solid and one hp mine does pretty well that way the solids are picture perfect and drop fine -- my highly polished one pin either drops or comes off easily with a very light pull-- I will probably leave mine that way -- one thing I have learned so far the hps are more accurate

TDC
03-05-2010, 10:32 PM
It would seem the additional time required to open and close the blocks with the HP pins is the challenge. For me, both the pins and the blocks continually cool with each dropping until the boolits finally stick firmly to the cooler pins. If the weather is cold I don't believe there is any way a caster can keep up with the mold cooling.

So far my solution is to find an ideal temp for my pot melt. Additionally, I keep a hot plate handy to re-heat the mold with the first sign of sticking. For me that has been 8 or 10 casting cycles, then place the mold blocks back on the hot plate to bring the mold back up to an effective casting temperature. A benefit is that gives me time to keep the alloy in the production pot refluxed and well stirred occasionally.

Every mold I've ever owned has had individual casting idiosyncrasies all its own. These Miha Cramer's are no exception. In fact, there are closer tolerances and more moving parts in these molds than most of us have used before. We've got a talented and enthusiastic machinist in Miha willing to work with us in the creation of these versatile and finely crafted molds. I believe our job is to help him by actively evaluating these molds and help him explore the new innovative ground we're all working our way through. Miha listens....

I believe many members are pleased to read the reports you guys are posting and contributing here. You're providing such vital and important info that will help solve any minor problem associated with these molds. They turn out the most beautiful HP's I've ever seen..

I think I can speak for others and say -- keep the new ideas and solutions coming.. They're appreciated... :drinks:

TDC
03-06-2010, 01:46 AM
FYI.... I just got off the #503 thread in this section. It appears some of the guys there are having good success using Bullshop and Miha sprue lube on the pins. Another is using mold release. You guys having trouble may want to give that a try.....

You may want to check out the last page of that thread....

mag44uk
03-06-2010, 10:28 AM
Has anyone tried this in a Marlin yet?
Cheers,
Tony

JudgeBAC
03-08-2010, 08:35 PM
I have now had the opportunity to try out the plain base HP mold with the pins modified by Erik Ohlen at hollowpointmolds.com. With a 20:1 alloy I experienced no sticking whatsoever and successfully cast over a 100 boolits this afternoon.

Before the modification, the boolits were sticking badly no matter which alloy and at any temperature. The modification was a huge success.

If you look at my previous post you will see photos of the modified pins.

JudgeBAC
03-09-2010, 05:01 PM
Tried a different alloy today, about 14bhn which is harder than the 20:1 in yesterday's test.

Again, no sticking whatsoever. Ran the RCBS pro melt at full tilt and cast 149 great looking boolits in no time flat.

The pin modification makes all the difference in the world.

hamour
03-10-2010, 07:38 AM
Has any one heard whem Miha will have a chance to work on these pins? I know he plans on offering some new ones with a sharper angle just not when.

pspeller
03-10-2010, 08:39 PM
Can someone tell me who carries the correct gas checks. Thank in advance. Looking forward to trying some of these in my marlin.

Phil

GLynn41
03-13-2010, 11:23 AM
2nd the gc question now aobut casting-- I have always waited a bit between pours and cutting the sprue-- well I have almost stopped on my Miha mold as soon as the puddle hardends I cut it -- I am casting one sold and one hp and the hps come off with almost no effort -- faster is better-- so I guess heat is a factor in the release
i tested some hp 195 gr - I use the sale papers in the plastic bags -- this hp will blow them in half-- only the plastic holds them together -- this is at 40 steps, I am going on a boar hunt starting the 25th of this month -- hope to report on the solid after that ti weighs depending on the gc I use 221--225 the first being light slip on(glue on) and the others being .416 and some Hornady crimp on

Blammer
03-13-2010, 01:34 PM
post #20 will help you with the GC's you need.

there are some at the Group buy login, under DJ's corner.

feel free to PM me with questions if you need help.

Darrell

Rico1950
03-13-2010, 02:47 PM
Check went out today for 2000 .41 thin GC's
Thanks Darrell
Rico1950

Rico1950
03-20-2010, 01:42 PM
Received the 41's today.
Thanks, Blammer

GLynn41
04-01-2010, 07:25 PM
I went on my hog hunt but did get to use the Miha solid bullet-- turned out the problem was my scope but had run out of bullets --so used what I had my 255 LWNGC mold//the story is on the hunting forum

257 Shooter
04-02-2010, 12:06 PM
GLynn41, now that you mentioned the hunitng story where is it? Results and pictures are always appreciated.

GLynn41
04-03-2010, 02:12 PM
I will post it// this evening --it was fun

Orygun
05-02-2010, 09:20 PM
Wondering if are there any more solutions to getting good castings with the HP's and/or are new pins still in the works?

I haven't tried casting with this mold since my first attempts which were very frustrating.

GLynn41
05-02-2010, 10:05 PM
i found that if I cast fast as I can that the pins are a non issue-- the mold loses heat fast ----so I go as fast --pretty much-- as i can--have not heard about anything else

Orygun
05-03-2010, 02:34 PM
i found that if I cast fast as I can that the pins are a non issue-- the mold loses heat fast ----so I go as fast --pretty much-- as i can--have not heard about anything else


And I really need to try this again, just was hoping for an easy solution. :)

MiHec
05-10-2010, 04:05 PM
Here are 5 sided pins for .41mag HP mold. Do you want me to do also round pins with more taper?


I will open order page in few days

Rico1950
05-10-2010, 08:13 PM
Just the 5 sided are fine with me. However more taper on the round pins would be nice. Shipping should be the same for both anyway.
Sent my original round pins and mold off to Erik for him to work on.
No offense Miha, but to ask you to work on my pins just didn't seem right with all the work you have lined up.

giz189
05-11-2010, 02:05 AM
5 sided are fine with me too.

denul
05-12-2010, 08:56 AM
I am very interested in both 5 sided, and the round pins with more taper. If it would be easier, I could wait and have them shipped with the upcoming 45 GB

Dennis Eugene
05-12-2010, 11:34 AM
I too am in on the 45-270-SAA mold group buy and would take a set for the 41 mag I bought shipped with the mold when the 45 ships. I don't really care which set I get 5 sided or round with more taper. I just want to get this .41 mag mold up and running properly as I have been very bummed out over the sticking problems with original pins. Thanks Dennis Eugene

Cord
05-12-2010, 12:47 PM
I like the 5-sided pins- and would be happy to buy two sets.
One set for each of my PB and GC moulds.

If new tapered pins are offered, I will buy two sets of those also,
and shipping with the .45 270 or other moulds is a VERY good idea.

In the beginning, I had a lot of problems with the .41 pins not
releasing the boolits, but I polished them with successively finer grits
of automotive emery cloth (up to 2000 grit) for a true mirror finish.

That and, more importantly, some “heat management techniques”
allowed me to have a couple of productive sessions and
a nice pile of boolits, so I have been quiet about the .41 since.

I’m still experimenting with my technique, when I have more
results I will post about it, if anyone is interested.

.

Rhoa4396
05-12-2010, 04:15 PM
Hi Mihec,

I too would be interested in both, 5 sided pins for the .41 AND round pins with a greater tapper. Both would be appreciated. With luck the new pins will work better for me. So far I just haven't had the sucess with the .41s I've had with your 45. I hope you do both types of pins.

Ken

Orygun
05-12-2010, 09:33 PM
I would go with which ever one releases the bullet well.

McKee Boykin
05-12-2010, 10:42 PM
I'll take the 5 sided pins for the 45 and 410 molds and a more tapered pin for the 410 mold. that is 3 pins sets.

GLynn41
05-13-2010, 09:47 PM
If 5 sides work I am good for a set-- like said casting very fast has helped alot-- I now cast one solid and one HP

Tomhorn
05-14-2010, 09:59 AM
I would take two sets of the five sided pins as well.

Highland Drifter
05-15-2010, 06:29 AM
I would go for 5 sided pins and round pins with more taper.

Brian

GLynn41
05-15-2010, 07:46 PM
shot the Hp off of bags at 30 yards-- got several 2 in one hole and one to one side -- do not know the mz but it is 28 gr H110 out of my 41/454-- I check later-- I have yet to get the solids to shoot very well but the hp have done well in two different 6 guns boo yah-- looking good for deer season

Rhoa4396
05-16-2010, 05:03 PM
-- do not know the mz but it is 28 gr H110 out of my 41/454-- .....

Hi,

Question.... I'm not familuar with 41/454. Is that a 454 that is necked down to a 41?

Ken
==========

GLynn41
05-16-2010, 10:01 PM
yeah that is her in 5.5"-- a normal 210 grain Jbullet will go about 1750+ but have not clocked my 255 cast or the Hp from my Mihia mold

Rhoa4396
05-18-2010, 11:16 AM
yeah that is her in 5.5"-- a normal 210 grain Jbullet will go about 1750+ but have not clocked my 255 cast or the Hp from my Mihia mold

I've not heard of that before but it sounds nice.

Years ago when I still shot IHMSA, my spotter and I rechambered a 44 Contender bull barrel and redid 30-40 Krag brass into what amounted to a 44 with about 3X's the case capacity 'after' seating a cast 265 gr bullet. It was a bit much but was fun. Lately, I've been thinking about putting together something like a .41-45acp. Perhaps making the brass out of something else for a bit more neck on the bullet... but capable of being fired in a 1911 or P220 type pistol.

Just thinking out loud since the finances are a bit thin right now.

Ken

Groo
05-23-2010, 07:36 PM
I've not heard of that before but it sounds nice.

Years ago when I still shot IHMSA, my spotter and I rechambered a 44 Contender bull barrel and redid 30-40 Krag brass into what amounted to a 44 with about 3X's the case capacity 'after' seating a cast 265 gr bullet. It was a bit much but was fun. Lately, I've been thinking about putting together something like a .41-45acp. Perhaps making the brass out of something else for a bit more neck on the bullet... but capable of being fired in a 1911 or P220 type pistol.

Just thinking out loud since the finances are a bit thin right now.

Ken

Groo here
JD Jones made a 41-45mag round some years ago for the 1911..
It was called the 41 Avenger ... All you need is dies and a barrel,
the case is made from 45win mag or any similar case longer than 45acp..
similar to 10 mm but an easy drop in for a 45acp

Rhoa4396
05-26-2010, 03:13 AM
Hi Groo,

The 41 avenger looks like just what I have been looking for. You see, I have this unreasonable love for the 41 yet can't get my mind off a Sig 220 elite. The idea of using cut down 45 win mag brass is a great idea also but it seems that Starline has it on hold indefinately untill they get enough orders. Grrr ... It beats reinventing the wheel, that's for sure.

No_1
05-26-2010, 06:38 AM
Ken,

The 45 win mag brass is what was originally called for but you can use other pistol brass as well as rifle brass but with the rifle brass you have to inside ream it once you cut it to size.

I have a 41 Avenger "kit" for my 1911 with all the stuff to convert rifle brass. To keep from hijacking this thread too much, start another thead with questions about this one and I am sure you will get some response.

Robert

Groo
05-27-2010, 04:31 PM
Groo here
Not much luck with the hollowpoint pins but flatnose work fine...
I would also like a set of 5 sided pins with more taper..

GLynn41
05-31-2010, 09:55 AM
I am still having trouble with the solids not shooting worth much -- they look good though-- I have tried them in two wildcats- 41/44 and now 41/454-- this last one mv was 1620 average with es of 12-- but still not so accurate-- the boolits weigh 221 gr-- glue on gator ck -- --crazy glue and it does hold them--range lead and ww then they are water dropped-- some are fully sized in a .410 die-- as this will just fit the cylinder mouth-- next will be some sized enough to just get the ck-- anyway beautiful mold-- the hps were loaded lighter about 1480 and they will shoot better -- i am having fun although now I must wear a glove to shoot -- but I needed that even with the normal .41-- a question could the glue effect the boolit-- it is normally a small drop in the center of the boolit?:idea:

Southern Man
05-31-2010, 03:49 PM
I would like to get a set of 5 sided pins for the .41 shipped with the 45-270SAA-HP also.

Southern Man

Heavy lead
05-31-2010, 07:20 PM
My solids shoot like a house of fire, actually the most accurate boolit I've ever fired out of my 657's, I still cannot get the hollowpoints to drop worth beans, and wish it were just a plain Jane 6 cavity actually.
Also I'm going to sell the gas checked version, I've only casted 50 or so out of it and find I just don't need the gas check in my 657's.
I'm going to pm Mihec and see if I can buy a couple of more tapered pins, these, I'm sure are a good design, but one that would work better with a single cavity none Cramer design.

Cord
05-31-2010, 09:53 PM
Just wrote this yesterday and posted it on another thread....

I had a lot of trouble with the MiHec .41 Brass Cramers releasing from the pins.

I chucked the pins up in my drill press, and used 0000 steel wool to gently
polish them, but when I looked at them through my 16x jeweler’s loupe I saw
that the steel wool was making very tiny grooves of different sizes around the pins,
I think it’s because the wool is bunched up unevenly in the form of a pad.

Starting over with a new set of pins, I ripped some soft pine into ¾ x ¾ sticks
18” long and used contact cement on the smooth sides to attach emery paper
in 240, 360, 480 and 600 grits, making "polishing sticks."

This worked much better, and the sticks keep my hands away from the chuck,
I just gently hold the stick against the taper, move down and roll it over the tip of the pin.
I also move the stick sideways to feed fresh paper to the pin, kind of like a gentle stropping.

Then I went to an automotive paint supply shop and for .92 each bought ½ sheets of
even finer emery paper in 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit and made polishing sticks of those.

I finish off with a strip of old T-shirt smeared with white automotive polishing
compound, but I don’t think it’s really necessary.

The end result is a mirror finish, and the rounded tips look like a cat’s eye gemstone.
At the proper high heat, I just roll the mould over and the boolits usually drop off the pins.

It wasn’t hard at all and I think the pins are still almost identical, and remain at
the large size, and same taper profile, that 45 2.1 designed them to be. YMMV.

.

MiHec
06-23-2010, 04:46 AM
Pins should be ready to ship next week.
I will open order page on my web and let you know.


Pins are 5 sided and also ones with more tapper. As soon as possible I will attach some pictures.

Triggerhappy
07-05-2010, 04:48 PM
Miha, Are you offering this mold again or just replacement pins?

I'm interested in a mold if you do a rerun.

Thanks,

TH

MiHec
07-05-2010, 05:18 PM
Miha, Are you offering this mold again or just replacement pins?

I'm interested in a mold if you do a rerun.

Thanks,

TH

Both...

But the run on this molds is just 20 molds.


Pins are finished I just need to assemble them. I will post some pictures tomorrow.

Triggerhappy
07-06-2010, 11:15 AM
Miha, Thanks.

WELL, LET'S GET THIS THING STARTED!

.41 GC or PB 2 Cavity Cramer HP Mold

Triggerhappy (brian at macgurus dot com) 1 mold with all pins .41 PB

Shooter6br
07-06-2010, 11:33 AM
I am in for the 41 mag 2 cavity plain base love my 200 g for my 45 ACP Rick

Triggerhappy
07-06-2010, 11:49 AM
Rick,

Please add your handle, email address and the mold version you want below mine on my last post so we get a list started.

Thanks.

Shooter6br
07-06-2010, 12:12 PM
i want 2 cavity plain base 41 mag ( both pins) Cramer style. Handle Shooter6br E mail Thekellners@aol.com

MiHec
07-07-2010, 03:50 PM
I must edit this - it will be 18 molds available

denul
07-08-2010, 04:31 AM
I have the mold, but need the new pins

Rhoa4396
07-08-2010, 05:25 AM
I have the mold, but need the new pins



It is the same for me, I have the mold but would like the new pins.

Ken

denul
07-11-2010, 09:56 AM
Miha - can you give a price for one 2 cavity mold and 2 complete sets of pins?

azrednek
07-11-2010, 06:23 PM
It is the same for me, I have the mold but would like the new pins.

Ken

Me too, have the mould but need the new pin.

Moonie
07-12-2010, 02:45 PM
I've not heard of that before but it sounds nice.

Years ago when I still shot IHMSA, my spotter and I rechambered a 44 Contender bull barrel and redid 30-40 Krag brass into what amounted to a 44 with about 3X's the case capacity 'after' seating a cast 265 gr bullet. It was a bit much but was fun. Lately, I've been thinking about putting together something like a .41-45acp. Perhaps making the brass out of something else for a bit more neck on the bullet... but capable of being fired in a 1911 or P220 type pistol.

Just thinking out loud since the finances are a bit thin right now.

Ken

Sounds close to the .400 cor-bon. I have a barrel for my 1911, shots great, nice velocity. It uses 45 acp +p brass with small primers in the starline brass. I have some of it but I usually just reform standard 45 acp brass and shoot lighter loads.

10mm ballistics up to 165-170gr loads.

whitetailsniper
07-12-2010, 10:33 PM
mihec,
please dont forget to add the to the list for this mold 2 cav. perfer no gc,and both sets of pins,,and 1 of your handles for the mold as well. just wanted to remind you if you forgot. thank you

giz189
07-14-2010, 11:07 PM
Both...

But the run on this molds is just 20 molds.


Pins are finished I just need to assemble them. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Has MiHec offered these pins yet and I missed them or are we still waiting on them?

MiHec
07-15-2010, 02:14 AM
Pins will be ready to ship this weekend.
I will also open a web page so you will be able to buy directly.

Link will be posted here and also some pictures

Triggerhappy
07-15-2010, 12:53 PM
Cool!

giz189
07-15-2010, 06:46 PM
Thanks, Miha.

Dennis Eugene
07-19-2010, 11:38 AM
Was hopeing to see something about new pins here this morning. On post # 150 on 5/10/2010 of this thread Mihi states that the new pins order page will be opened in a few days it is now two and a half months later and still no remendy for this almost unworkable mold. I have stated before that I would gladly pay for workable pins I just want my mold fixed and usable. I will add that I am getting very tired of waiting for a solution to this problem. Sincerely Dennis Eugene

MiHec
07-20-2010, 03:40 AM
Here is the link to the order / buy page for extra sets of pins for .410-200 HP cramer style.


LINK! (http://www.mp-molds.com/index.php?pr=41_mag_extra_pins&nosessionkill=1)


Set includes 5 sided pins and round pins with more tapper than original pins. Also e-clips are included.

Price for this is 12 USD plus 2 USD shipping

Orygun
07-20-2010, 07:45 AM
Yay! Order sent.

Dennis Eugene
07-20-2010, 09:14 AM
OK order sent. Thanks Dennis

azrednek
07-20-2010, 02:25 PM
Order and PayPal sent for pins.

Shooter6br
07-20-2010, 07:49 PM
When can i get the whole mold...........LOL

Rhoa4396
07-20-2010, 08:00 PM
Sent my order in last night, about an hour or so :coffee: after the notice hit the board.

Ken

Cord
07-20-2010, 08:06 PM
I placed an order, thank you for making these available!

Since I have both the PB and GC moulds,
I would like to order two sets;
can you bill me and ship them together,
or will I have to order twice?

Thanks!

whitetailsniper
07-20-2010, 08:23 PM
yes! please add the 5 sided pins to my order. 1 pb mold 2 cavity both set of pins,and a set of these 5 sided pins. id like a confirmation that im on the list. can anyone please confirm that i am on the list.

MiHec
07-21-2010, 03:53 AM
I placed an order, thank you for making these available!

Since I have both the PB and GC moulds,
I would like to order two sets;
can you bill me and ship them together,
or will I have to order twice?

Thanks!

Please order twice

denul
07-21-2010, 06:44 AM
Placed order for pins - thanks

TDC
07-21-2010, 03:49 PM
Order placed.....

Rico1950
07-21-2010, 08:31 PM
Order for pins placed tonite.
Thanks Miha

pistolman44
07-22-2010, 01:24 AM
The 410 HP molds must be done. Mihec sent me an email requesting Pay Pal payment. I sent him the payment. Can't waite for another mold from him. I got the 45 HP 200 gr. from him and it is a dream to cast with. I'm sure this new mold will be the same. When I get the mold I have to check with Blammer for gas checks for this mold. Mihec said the gas check shank is .396".

MiHec
07-22-2010, 08:58 AM
If someone need this mold - look into my web shop....


www.mp-molds.com

Triggerhappy
07-22-2010, 11:14 AM
Miha,

Mold ordered.

Thanks
TH

Triggerhappy
07-22-2010, 11:31 AM
And paid.

TDC
07-29-2010, 12:56 PM
Received my new HP and 5 sided pins yesterday.... I plan on casting some new boolits with them next week.. They look very good and should provide new versatility for Miha's .41 Cramer.

I didn't have any issues with boolits dropping off the original pins. For those who did these new pins should certainly solve that problem.... Thanks, Miha......

Shooter6br
07-29-2010, 01:44 PM
Got mine today Great mold Great service! Now the fun begins.

Triggerhappy
07-29-2010, 01:59 PM
The definition of addicted: ordering a mold and being impatient to cast with it, even though I don't own a gun to shoot them through.

denul
07-29-2010, 03:16 PM
Pins arrived today. will try em soon.

Rhoa4396
07-29-2010, 06:35 PM
Mine came today also and look fine. I can't wait to try them out also but have a few things to do around the house before I get to play.... er ... I meant cast.

Ken:Fire:

Rico1950
07-29-2010, 09:11 PM
Pins arrived today. Thanks Miha!

Rhoa4396
07-29-2010, 09:35 PM
Hi Miha,

I know I posted that my pins came today (grin) but it suddenly just dawned on me, I never told you thanks... so "thank you" for the new pins, they are very much appreciated.
:drinks:
Ken
======

TDC
07-30-2010, 03:18 PM
I cast 300 boolits this morning using both the newly shaped pin designs.

I used straight wheel weighs as my alloy. I cast with absolutely no lubricants, coatings or polishing on the pins to see how they would function as delivered.

The boolits dropped from the pins like they were coated with butter! The hollow point cavities were all uniform and consistent..... Needless to say, I believe very little break-in time will be required to have these newly shaped pins please everyone who uses this mold.

I'll be anxious to read reports from others.

Good job, Miha!!

pistolman44
08-06-2010, 12:33 AM
Got the mold last week and casted with it yesterday. The gas
check shank is what Mihec said it woud be .396". Some went to .396.5" Blammer said these will take a Gator Lyman thin check. This is my second mold from him and plan on a 44 caliber next.

Shooter6br
08-08-2010, 10:11 AM
My 41 mag PB cast great if run hotter than the furnace of hell.I use a hot plate (1000 watt) to pre heat( 4 to 5 min on high) .I put a metal dish( An old Lee pan lube pan) on top of the plate.I have one question. With the alloy i use 25-1 the bullets drop(HP) at 210 g .Listed on mold 200g My Lee 210 TL drops at 210g with the same alloy. Is it the fact the mold is PB? it is a small point but "I gotsa know"

MiHec
08-08-2010, 10:24 AM
My 41 mag PB cast great if run hotter than the furnace of hell.I use a hot plate (1000 watt) to pre heat( 4 to 5 min on high) .I put a metal dish( An old Lee pan lube pan) on top of the plate.I have one question. With the alloy i use 25-1 the bullets drop(HP) at 210 g .Listed on mold 200g My Lee 210 TL drops at 210g with the same alloy. Is it the fact the mold is PB? it is a small point but "I gotsa know"

Shape of pins??

It could be difference because of pins

Shooter6br
08-08-2010, 11:44 AM
The solid is casting 220 which is ok with me. My 45 ACP mold drops then at 200g HP and 210 Solid same alloy from same pot. i realize there is some variation

Groo
08-08-2010, 01:37 PM
Groo here
Cant find pins How much

Highland Drifter
08-08-2010, 02:27 PM
Groo,

Check post 193 of this thread. There is a link to order.

Brian

Groo
08-15-2010, 06:08 PM
Groo here
Ordered pins paypal sent Good Good Good

Shooter6br
08-15-2010, 06:57 PM
I find my 41 mag mold cast 10 grains heavier due to new taper of the pins. On the plus side the bullets drop like rain from heaven from the mold

Heavy lead
08-15-2010, 07:12 PM
I've got mine too, haven't tried them yet, but I'm sure all is well. Thanks to Miha for taking care of this small glitch. A classy businessman.

whitetailsniper
08-21-2010, 08:04 PM
FINALLY GOT MINE TODAY, couldnt wait casted out 150 rounds. like my other molds from mihec,, like my others-tis a thing of beauty. has a scarry start,hex pins were really snug fit. ,then started to cast,had alot of waste returns untill both mold and pot came into temp range.,,then i noticed wrinkle heads,with smooth bodys,so i backed off and let the mold cool somewhat,then sprayed completly out with crc brake cleaner,,,(THAT WAS THE TICKET) remembering what i read,and mihec siad to run hot,,i did so, and started to get keepers right away,i had not one problem with the bullets dropping of the hex pins,,,BUTTER BABY!! i casted out 150 rounds like it was nothing. So who has loaded,and shot these hex hp bullets,load used?? im planning on sighting in a new scope and using these for deer hunting out of my ruger super blackhawk bisley hunter that has been tweaked in all the right places. im excited to shot some of these. if there anything like his 45 270 mold,,i got another winner!!

Shooter6br
08-30-2010, 01:37 PM
Water jug at 9 yrds. Universal Clays 6.5 grain 210 g HP 25-1 alloy(950FPS)[smilie=w:

Groo
08-30-2010, 09:25 PM
Groo here
what is the slug weight, what in HP ?????????/

Shooter6br
08-30-2010, 10:26 PM
i get 212 grains with the HP. I beleive due to greater taper on the pins accounts for heavier weight.i also use 25-1 alloy which should weigh alittle more. Oh yes I got close to 100% weight retention with the slug pictures above

Orygun
10-28-2010, 04:56 PM
So I finally got around to casting a couple hundred with the new pins. Mixed 50/50 WW & soft with a little tin. Tried one each of the round pin and flat sided one, and the round one drops off easily. Not so with the other, though I think they could be polished smoother to make work.

But then I had a real tough time seating the gas checks. These are the Gator checks and they seem to be a bit small!?!

Any insights?

Orygun
10-28-2010, 06:59 PM
And to expand on my previous post, the base of the boolit where the gas check goes measures .394.5 - .395. The gator .416 gas checks measure ID at .388 - .389.5.

Me thinks a bigger gas check is in order!?! Which one?

felix
10-28-2010, 07:03 PM
The Lyman 41 thin check is required. The Gator has them, too. Remember, there are three different 41 checks. ... felix

Orygun
10-28-2010, 07:06 PM
Thanks Felix. Where might i find these? Does Blammer sell them? Anyone want some .416 Gators?

felix
10-28-2010, 07:07 PM
He should! There is no problem in doing so. ... felix

GLynn41
11-04-2010, 01:39 PM
UP date-- I have not order my pins yet but will -- the hps from my mold and metal weigh 195-6 gr - I am using my .41/454 -- mv is 1660-- I have had to work at it some but the round will give 1-1.5 inch at 50 yards for three shots-- --have not shot at 100 but back down the field road we use and shot at 180 steps-- three shots with me holding the 6-3 o clock post on the top of the box --not the best aiming point and put three shots into 7" -- I have never shot past 100 so for my first time I was happy -- and will try again with a good aiming point-- anyway at normal swamp hunting range 80 steps or less-- I am good to go -- I really like this mold-- new pins will only add to -- specs-- I do not know the hardness of the metal --softer than ww bu not softer than tape on --bullets expand well-- air cooled -- carnuba red lube -.410 to fit cyclinder throats-- .416 Gator checks -- which are very tight -- I will use the thin ones from now on no hassle-- except i have glue them on --gun is a 5.5" RedHawk in.410 GNR-- no need in giving the load as no one else is likely to have one --it is a nice and very accurate gun with lots of power

Orygun
11-04-2010, 06:12 PM
GLynn41,
Are you saying that you need to glue on the Lyman thin GC's? I just ordered some of them from Blammer and was hoping that they would just press on and be good to go as the .416's were way too tight.

Do get the new pins as the round tapered ones drop off great. I like the mold and the boolit, but if I have too many more hassles with it, I will sell and just buy JHP's.



416 Gator checks -- which are very tight -- I will use the thin ones from now on no hassle-- except i have glue them on --gun is a 5.5" RedHawk in.410 GNR-- no need in giving the load as no one else is likely to have one --it is a nice and very accurate gun with lots of power

GLynn41
11-04-2010, 06:20 PM
The Gator checks I have will not stay on with the alloy I am using and my mold --so I use crazy glue-- I do not know about any one else's-- what you are getting were made with this mold in mind -- what i have i have had for a while--2 years?-- so hopefully yours would be different-- even with a few hassles I would rather still my Mhia mold than buy jhps

GLynn41
11-29-2010, 09:23 AM
took a doe at 50 yards with the 198 grain HP one shot -- i have ordered the new pins finally -- but this mold is accurate and the hp seems to be good killers-- I am happy

giz189
11-29-2010, 10:28 PM
Hey Glynn41, i took two deer with my original hps from this mold this year, one at 103 of my steps and one at 94 of my steps. Both fell in their tracks. Have not recovered a spent bullet yet. I am only shooting these at around 1100 fps, but have been well pleased with their performance so far.