Seeking tips for a rookie reloader.

[Mike89]

I just bought a few things to get me reloading.

I bought the Lee Classic (4 hole) Turret Kit (from Cabela's). I plan on reloading 9mm and 44 magnum to start. I bought both a lee 9mm 4 die set and 44 die set. I also bought an extra turret so I can set up the dies once and then just change out turrets.

I also have coming, primers, bullets, powder for both calibers (will list them if anyone is interested in what I got). I have a few hundred rounds of ammo for both so I will have cases when I shoot those.

I will be getting everything this week. My biggest concern right now (besides putting the Lee Classic Turret together) is setting the dies on the turrets right. I haven't seen this explained that well on videos for me to have a lot of confidence right now in doing it.

I welcome any feedback right now you reloaders can give me to get me on the right path to properly reloading with my Lee. Thanks

[Heavy lead]

I have a classic cast turret now, and have had at least one Lee turret press seems forever, anyway it's a piece of cake to set the dies, do it just as you would a single stage, one at a time, if you are using the powder through expander with the auto disc powder measure make sure the measure is installed in the die fully before you do your expander adjustment, it will be a different setting than if you use the threaded plug that comes with the dies in my experience. IMO it is easier to set these up to run that a progressive as you only are doing one case at a time, and one task in a stroke of the press.

[RobS]

The classic cast turret press is truely a great press. I just set my dad up with one and it is as simple as a single stage press regarding the die setup. The directions that come with each set of dies walks you through the process and it is very painless; you should not have any problems. One note to the lee delux 4 die sets, if you plan on shooting cast bullets the last die or the factory crimp die is not a great die for this application.

It has a carbide ring in the inside of the die that is to post size the case to help assist in chambering of the round. The problem here is that it was intended for jacketed bullets which are almost always smaller than cast (.001 or more). This carbide ring will actually swagger down a cast boolit and make it smaller than intended thus making a bullet that leads the bore and in turn yields poor accuracy. I have the 4 die sets as well and all I did was cut off the carbide ring, but this modification can ruin the die if not done correctly. Once the carbide ring is eliminated it is a very good crimp die for both jacketed and/or cast boolits.

I also made sure to grease the indexing rod well and filled the indexing guide (plastic part on the ram that the indexing rod fits through) so the press indexed smoother.

If you run into issues it's not a problem you can post up here as there are many of us who can help you or you can try this forum:
http://loadmastervideos.com/
It is quite useful and is geared specifically at lee presses.

Rob

[cbrick]

Mike89, welcome to Castboolits.

I notice in your list of things that you have or have coming that you didn't list the most important reloading tool that you could have.

A reloading book . . . or two. Very important.

Rick

[MtGun44]

You need to buy one of the major bullet/powder or die manufacturer's reloading
manual. They have very detailed and clear die setup info. Too long to cover here.

Start at the front and read thru, they do a pretty good job in most of them.

I heartily agree that the Lee instructions with the Classic Turret are basically ****.
I have been loading for 40+ yrs and it took me about 45 minutes to figure out how to
put their Safety Prime system on that press. As usual, Lee was thinking outside of the
box, innovative priming system, but the instructions are pure junk, useless pix and near
zero explanation.

[Mike89]

On the book. I plan on getting one but so far I've been reading the data charts on all the powder maker's websites. For whatever powder you are getting, all the loads are there.

[mooman76]

All their loads may be there but you are missing out on the reading of how things work and the saftey involved with reloading. Not a good idea to just jump in without reading. There's allot more to reloading than just knowing how much powder to use. They also say how to adjust dies and other good things!

[Mike89]

I'm not saying I'm not getting one. I just don't have one yet and in the meantime, I'm doing all the reading I can wherever I can find it.

[Willbird]

I like the Lyman manual myself :-). And you can keep a copy in the throne room.

Bill

[markinalpine]

Mike89, welcome to Castboolits.

Add Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook to you reading list.
There is a lot of really good infor here: http://www.lasc.us/, especially http://www.lasc.us/IndexBrennan.htm , and http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

I think you are on the right road, but remember, this is a fairly free board, and anyone can post anything. Take EVERYTHING with a grain of salt, especially rumors the some people repeat because they read it "somewhere". I have almost exactly the same set-up as you, with 9mm and .45 ACP and .45 Colt dies, all in their own turrets. I have NEVER had the least trouble with Lee or RCBS crimping dies "swaging" cast lead boolits undersize. I have heard this can happen if the crimping die isn't adjusted correctly and is over-crimping. If it does happen, back off on the crimping die. Now if you were casting oversize boolits for a particular weapon that needed them due to out of standard cylinders (revolver), or chambers or barrels for semi-auto's, single shot, rifles, etc., then you might need to have the crimping die, or some of the other dies specially modified. but for standard weapons, you should do OK with what you have.
Again, welcome to the board.
Mark :coffeecom

[John Guedry]

+1 on the Lyman manual. I started with it and altho' I have others it is my main one.

[mooman76]

Ok then, as long as you are reading up you're doing the right thing. I also like the Lyaman manual and it is my go to for cast loads since it covers cast bullets better than probably all the others. Lee also has some cast data. I got the ABCs of gun loading even though it has no data I figured it was a good one to offer a unbiast opinion because they don't sell a product other than the book. I also like the Speer manual.
As far as setting up it can be a little confusing at first but once you get into it, it isn't that hard top figure out. All brands of dies set up a little different so it's best to go by the directions that come with the dies. As Heavymetal said they set up(adjustments) the same no matter what press you use. Good luck.

[zuke]

Caliper's to measure overall length of the case's and loaded round's.
Keep oil away from everything, especially wd-40 from primer's and loaded round's.

[mdi]

Your VERY FIRST purchase should be reloading manuals, not recipe books. The better manuals show you step by step how to reload, including adjusting dies. But, you got one coming so you can read it (which one? ABCs of Reloading, Lymsn's 49th, Lee Modern Reloading are the most popular) before attempting to stuff some cases.(If your in a hurry, buy factory ammo!)

Sounds like you're hooked! Go slow, be safe and enjoy!

[Mike89]

There is a gun show near me (Fresno) on January 30 and 31. I plan on getting a book there along with hopefully some more primers and powder.


I have NEVER had the least trouble with Lee or RCBS crimping dies "swaging" cast lead boolits undersize.

I had read that here as well. I have a question about crimping. Right now I'm looking at both a factory 44 round and 9mm round. By looking I can't see any what I would call crimping. I guess I don't know what to look for. What should it look like?


BTW, are there any reloading manuals you can download?

[wills]

I had read that here as well. I have a question about crimping. Right now I'm looking at both a factory 44 round and 9mm round. By looking I can't see any what I would call crimping. I guess I don't know what to look for. What should it look like?




Take a look at the February 2010 Handloader:
Mistakes page 22 by MikeVenturino,
Load Development, page 28, by Brian Pierce and
The 38 WCF in Revolvers by Miie Venturino

The latter two deal in part with crimping matters, the first one will remind you to be careful.

Whatever reloading manual you buy, read it cover to cover several times before you do anything.

[JesterGrin_1]

I also have and use the Lee Classic Cast Turret Press. It is my main press. I load everything on it which by many here is not much lol. I load .38Sp/.357Mag/.44Sp/.44Mag/.243/30-06/45-70. To say I like the press is an understatement.

But as others have said the Lyman ABC book is a good starter book as is the new Lyman 49th Edition reloading handbook. But if you run across some older reloading books at gun shows or even here they are also a good guide.

I will have to say though that the Lee pro disc powder measure does not do well with W-296 or H-110.

And while you read those books if you have any questions the best place to go to ask those questions is here on The Cast Boolits forum.

This is my press with Pats Dock Mount of which can be found here on the forum.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0053.jpg

I made a plastic piece so I could use a pill container to mount to the primer drop tube to catch the used primers and other junk that may fall out of the case. But some will use the same hose that comes with the press or a longer one of which can be purchased at any Lowes or Home Depot and just run the hose into a small garabage can.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0045-1.jpg

If you go here to loading bench pics http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=12392 you can get lots of ideas to help you set up your bench.

My bench is simply a craftsman work bench that I put a solid core door on top of and mounted it. There is more stuff on it now since this pic lol.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0047.jpg

[Mike89]

That's a mighty cool setup you got right there. :cool:

[longranger]

About crimping, the way to get the most effective crimp is to do it as seperate operation.Back the die off enough to allow bullet seating but not crimping.Then re set the die and back off the seating plug and adjust crimp.It is worth the extra step in producing excellent cartridges.
Also a good way to adjust your crimp is to use a commercially loaded round and set the crimp up by placing the cartridge the shell holder and raise the ram and lower the die to match the crimp on the cartridge. You will have much better ammo. Read the first 4-5 chapters of which ever reloading book you get.
Be safe, were counting on it.

[Willbird]

About crimping, the way to get the most effective crimp is to do it as seperate operation.Back the die off enough to allow bullet seating but not crimping.Then re set the die and back off the seating plug and adjust crimp.It is worth the extra step in producing excellent cartridges.
.

That is how I was taught, the only cartridge I have ever heard of being able to crimp properly while seating is a full wadcutter, otherwise you are shooting at the hole in a rolling donut more or less, the bullet you are trying to crimp the case into is being pushed deeper into the case while you are crimping, with the full wadcutter you do not need a major crimp to begin with, and it is quite often folded over the end of the bullet not into a crimp groove.

[Willbird]

Also if you are crimping on a single stage that last step...with very little press effort gives you one more chance to look for shaved lead or other things that make a cartridge less than perfect.

[JesterGrin_1]

This is why as you may see in this pic I have 4 Die's that is two seating crimping die's one is to seat the bullet and the other to crimp as others have said I feel doing it this way gives more control over the COL and crimping operation. :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0053.jpg

[mdi]

I may have miss the answer but, crimping is forcing the case mouth against the boolit to secure it in place, so that the boolit remains as loaded through feeding and recoil. Also a crimp aids powder burning. On revolver cases, usually a roll crimp is used to hold the boolit in place. Look at the mouth of the 44 case. The edge is "rolled" into a groove in the boolit. On a semi-auto case (9mm, 45 ACP, etc) the crimp squeezes the case around the boolit leaving the case mouth "up" so it will headspace correctly in the chamber.

[AZ-Stew]

That is how I was taught, the only cartridge I have ever heard of being able to crimp properly while seating is a full wadcutter, otherwise you are shooting at the hole in a rolling donut more or less, the bullet you are trying to crimp the case into is being pushed deeper into the case while you are crimping, with the full wadcutter you do not need a major crimp to begin with, and it is quite often folded over the end of the bullet not into a crimp groove.

I'll respectfully disagree with you on this. All of the Keith-style semi-wadcutters crimp quite well (relatively heavy roll crimp) while seating the boolit. It's a matter of properly setting up the seat/crimp die. These boolits have a generous crimp groove and allow plenty of room to execute a crimp and seat in one step. Now, if you don't trim your cases to the same length, you'll never get consistent crimps regardless of whether you use one or two steps.

With auto-pistol cartridges, the bullet seldom has a crimp groove, as they are designed to headspace on the case mouth. It's very easy to get a taper crimp die to just remove mouth belling as the bullet is seating, also using a single step.

Regards,

Stew

[JesterGrin_1]

Well there you go. As they say there is more than one way to skin a cat lol. :)

[MtGun44]

I'm with AZ-Stew on the Keith boolits crimping fine due to the nice groove, but I have
recently gone to the Redding crimp die as a separate step for both the .44 mag
and .357 mag. They look the same as the single step ammo, tho.

On the semi-auto, I will respectfully disagree. I set TC to push half the thickness of the brass
into the lead (judged by eyeball with magnification) boolit to properly ensure that the
boolit doesn't push into the case during feeding, esp important with my WIDELY varying
range pickup brass. This leaves plenty of case edge for headspacing. Even if it didn't
you can set the full diam shoulder of my H&G 68s to provide location as they hit the
throat of the barrel.

Bill

[AZ-Stew]

On the semi-auto, I will respectfully disagree. I set TC to push half the thickness of the brass into the lead (judged by eyeball with magnification) boolit to properly ensure that the boolit doesn't push into the case during feeding, esp important with my WIDELY varying range pickup brass. This leaves plenty of case edge for headspacing. Even if it didn't you can set the full diam shoulder of my H&G 68s to provide location as they hit the throat of the barrel.
Bill

Bill,

Agreed for cast. I was thinking jacketed when I posted.

Regards,

Stew

[acoilfld]

One thing that I didn't see mentioned was a scale, not sure if it comes with the kit or not. Very important to know the exact weights of your charges when setting things up and to check during reloading.

[MtGun44]

AZ-Stew,

You are right for jacketed, altho I do just a tad more than just iron out the
flare, just enough to shine up the edge of the brass when you look close.


Sounds like we are in pretty close agreement, sir. ;-)

Bill

[AZ-Stew]

AZ-Stew,

Sounds like we are in pretty close agreement, sir. ;-)

Bill

I have a dual-maginfying head band I'll share with you so we can tell the difference. :bigsmyl2:

Regards,

Stew

[Willbird]

I'll respectfully disagree with you on this. All of the Keith-style semi-wadcutters crimp quite well (relatively heavy roll crimp) while seating the boolit. It's a matter of properly setting up the seat/crimp die. These boolits have a generous crimp groove and allow plenty of room to execute a crimp and seat in one step. Now, if you don't trim your cases to the same length, you'll never get consistent crimps regardless of whether you use one or two steps.

With auto-pistol cartridges, the bullet seldom has a crimp groove, as they are designed to headspace on the case mouth. It's very easy to get a taper crimp die to just remove mouth belling as the bullet is seating, also using a single step.

Regards,

Stew

To each his own :-). I was raised in front of the loading press, and my dad taught me what I still profess today. It might be that you could sometimes make it work...but I will still say that doing it separate is better. There is simply no way that crimping onto a moving bullet can result in as good a crimp.

[JesterGrin_1]

Willbird it can be done but for nutty people like us I still like to seat the bullet and crimp in two seperate operations. It just makes things easier at least for myself. :)

[Willbird]

Willbird it can be done but for nutty people like us I still like to seat the bullet and crimp in two seperate operations. It just makes things easier at least for myself. :)


Well you COULD hit a fast pitched baseball while working a yo-yo with one of your big toes too :-)....but the end result would not be as good as if you worked on just hitting the baseball :-).

[DLCTEX]

I don't know if the Lee Safety Prime comes with the Cabelas kit, but I think it is the berries for priming. I rarely use my hand pimers anymore. It is so fast to change primer size and uses standard shell holders. It is also safe in that it has great separation between the seating and the remaining primers. I highly recommend it.
JFYI: Lee has videos on their web site for seting the dies and attachments and all aspects of setting up the press.