Lanotec, all purpose lube etc.

[Bigjohn]

G'day from downunder,

In a previous thread on this forum, a member mentioned he was using Lanotec as a bullet lube in his rifles.

http://www.conbear.com/Lanotec%20msd...sion%201.p df

In my local club there is one member who is using this as a patch lube in his muzzleloader and has shot 20 twenty without having to clean part way through the string. The last round loaded was as easy to load as the first.

Well, Lanotec is available in a grease and liquid form. The grease is easy to apply and spreads well. It will also stick "Like s@#t to a blanket". This 'stuff' is also good for long term storage of firearms and as an antifouling agent, etc etc.

I will try to post some photo's of the container and material for those who want such details.

John:castmine: :drinks:

[Bad Ass Wallace]

Shhhhh Big John, next they will want to emmy grate here so they can play cricket:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

HOW TO PLAY CRICKET

Pretty simple rules really:
You have two sides, one out in the field and one in. Each man that's in the
side that's in goes out, and when he's out he comes in and the next man goes
in until he's out. When they are all out, the side that's out comes in and
the side that's been in goes out and tries to get those coming in, out.
Sometimes you get men still in and not out. When a man goes out to go in,
the men who are out try to get him out, and when he is out he goes in and
the next man in goes out and goes in. There are two men called umpires who
stay out all the time and they decide when the men who are in are out. When
both sides have been in and all the men have been out, and both sides have
been out twice after all the men have been in, including those who are not
out, that is the end of the game. Ya got it?? :roll: :roll:

[Bigjohn]

B.A.W. You fergot to mention Leg before wicket, Silly mid on and silly mid off, how many balls make an over, why the wicket keeper doesn't get to keep the wickets and that it is possible to score six runs without even running.
(Did I miss any?)

Now if all this doesn't have 'em interested in playing the game then nothing will.

Actually your discription of the the game is a CLASSIC!:-D :mrgreen:

But, really the stuff (L*^)@%c) is the best thing since .......... Dang it lets just declare it a prohibited export and keep it all ourselves:kidding:

I thunk the secret is slowly creeping out without our help.

I have taken the photo's I mentioned but the battery decided to go flat. I'm recharging now so I can download the pic's.:holysheep

[threett1]

Always wondered how cricket was played. Thanks for the explaination. Now I know. You are a good man Wallace.:mrgreen:

[Bigjohn]

1573

1574

1575

[Bad Ass Wallace]

My understanding of gridiron is confusing

Take 15 marching bands, 10 girly twirlies troupes, 4 hours of prime time TV ads and 10 minutes of football comprising 5 minutes each way
22, 45, 69 :twisted: another 69er :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :-D :-D hutt! hutt! Hutt!

Now where the hell is that dang ball. Everybody crashes into everybody else trying to make the thief spill it [smilie=1:

Now if it were liberally coated with LANOTEC:Fire:

[Bigjohn]

I thought Gridiron football was Rugby in body armour! Man when they get piledriven into the ground! It's gotta hurt, it would kill you or me.

Now if they were covered in LANOTEC I think we better be careful what we say on this forum. There is a Sheephunter amongst us.:holysheep [smilie=1:

BAW, Can you elaborate on your method of lubing the projectile (Note to self; Boolits, Boolits!) for your charges.:coffee: I would consider applying by hand (neat) and then through a sizing die if needed.

The only close personal experience I have is with the member and his muzzleloader.:Fire: [smilie=s:

[Bad Ass Wallace]

only close personal experience I have is with the member and his muzzleloader.:Fire: [smilie=s:
Thank heaven it wasn't the muzzleloader and his member:-D

I shoot them as cast 0.462 and just finger lube. Once seated, I just wipe off any excess. A lot of it gets up into the bullet seater but just wipe that out every 15-20.

[kodiak1]

Crickets get stepped on in Canada!!
Back to the Lanotec where would a person get it? Now that Aussie football that looks like a real mans sport, that's gotta hurt.
Ken.

[13Echo]

The Lanotec jar says lanolin and food grade. Sounds like it is mostly lanolin with something added to make it just a bit less sticky? Apparently something you can eat without harm. My current favorite blackpowder lube is Beeswax, peanut oil and lanolin, about 20% lanolin. The fouling is light, I get a good lube star, and the accuracy is good. The lanolin in the lube made the difference. Maybe I need to try even more.

Jerry

[felix]

Jerry, don't overdo the lanolin. In other words, tread softly. ... felix

[Four Fingers of Death]

Lanolin is the greasy stuff in wool. Won't hurt you.

[13Echo]

Felix,
I haven't seen a need to use more lanolin, but I'm curious. What happens with an excess of lanolin? My black powder lube, basically Emmert's, fouled out and gave bad accuracy until I started adding lanolin and reducing the crisco. Fouling stays soft even to the end of my 34" 45-90 barrel and accuracy is good. Following the usual misguided rule of,"if a little is good a lot will be better" I was thinking of trying even more lanolin. So I would very much like to know what your experience is.

Jerry Liles

[felix]

Jerry, lanolin has lots of viscosity. It will slowly add itself to the bore and not allow itself to burn out equally with each shot. You might not see it in the ML situation where you stroke the barrel with each shot anyway. That is the ONLY downside that I can see, except for the cost of using too much to do any further good. However, we are here to play around, so please do and report back. ... felix

[shooter575]

13 Echo,Some years ago I was having a lube problem with custom barreled 1855 rifle I built.The lube I was using for my other muskets was a beeswax/oil mix [olive,canola,peanut etc] The standard lube worked fine with shallow 3 land rifling.This 55 had 7 land deep rifling .012 1:54 twist.Anyway I had just got on line and did some searches on bullet lube and got hooked up with the now departed shooters.com. This was when Felix and the others were working on His famous lube.That is how I got the idea to use the Lanolin.I ended up with a 50%BW 25%Neetsfoot oil and 25% lanolin.This mix works well in all of my M/L and in my BP cartridge loads.I do add a bit more oil in the winter as it does get a bit stiff in the cold. ie under 40 deg.I never did experment with much smaller amounts of lanolin.More made it way too sticky though.As I only use 25-30 sticks a year I dont figure the lanolin price too bad a issue...Yet.
Hope this helps

[martinibelgian]

I just loaded up 10 rounds of 45-70 with straight lanolin, will go out to the range this AM to shoot them. I'll report back, of course... It really is sticky stuff, though!

[martinibelgian]

Update - I fired the 10 rounds lubed with Lanolin, prone position, 75m. No fouling problems, good accuracy. I blowtubed 5 breaths between rounds, and an dry patch after the last shot (without blowtubing)showed if anything less fouling than with the 'normal' lube. Still, lubing the bulles is a pain in the posterior, so I believe I'll go towards a formula combining lanolin with something else (soy wax, beeswax) in order to be able to panlube. It really is messy stuff...

[hpdrifter]

Someone asked where to get some.

Still hasn't been answered.

From where is this stuff available?

[13Echo]

Australia?

I suspect lanolin with a bit of beeswax to stiffin it a bit would be equivalent.


Jerry Liles

[martinibelgian]

Australia?

I suspect lanolin with a bit of beeswax to stiffin it a bit would be equivalent.


Jerry Liles

Lanolin or wool fat - you can get it at any chemist's, drugstore too - it is used as a base for ointments. The Lanotec stuff - I presume it just is the industrial equivalent.

[13Echo]

The reason I think Lanotec is modified lanolin or not pure lanolin is the picture with the scoop. It looks like it scooped with almost square edges that even look a bit fibrous. I've never managed to scoop pure, anhydrous lanolin without threads of the stuff from the scoop to the jar with an almost pearly surface to the lanolin. It just looks a lot less messy than pure lanolin.

Jerry Liles

[Maven]

All, here's the website: http://www.conbear.com/Lanotec%lanolin_products.htm

[You'll want to look at the Type A grease/lubricant]

[hiram]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Prevent-Corrosion-and-Lubricate-Raw-Lanolin-1-2-liters_W0QQitemZ9525936518QQihZ007QQcategoryZ324QQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[lar45]

I buy my Lanolin here.
http://www.thesage.com/
They are very friendly people and the price is about the lowest I can find on most of the items I get for my lube.

If Straight lanolin worked good, I wonder what Bag Balm would do? It's abit cheaper than Lanolin.
I'm still waiting on my BP lube testing apparatice to arrive.

[lar45]

I looked at the MSDS for Lanotec type A grease and it says the ingredients are Anhydrous Lanolin 90-100%, but doesn't list anything else.

How much does the stuff cost?

[Bad Ass Wallace]

Here in Oz it costs $AU11.95 per 18oz jar. SPG stick lube costs $AU16 for 2oz and Lyman orange about $AU14. A jar will lube about 3500 boolits.

[357maximum]

"If Straight lanolin worked good, I wonder what Bag Balm would do?"

Glenn

Bagbalm is a mixture of lanolin and petrolatum, I do not think the lanolin % to be very high from my playings around with it. I suspect you are getting mostly scented vaseline in that there green tin.

Michael

[flhroy]

What the hell is a googley?

[waksupi]

What the hell is a googley?


As in, "Great Googley Moogleys!" Forget where it came from. W.C. Fields, I believe.

[Bigjohn]

G,day again everyone,

I've just breezed in after three, twelve and a half hour shifts in three days. On these days it is a case of work, eat, sleep then do it all again, no time for anything much else.

We here in Australia can buy the 'stuff' from various sources and for different prices depending on the individual companies mark up rates. It is also available in other forms eg liquid.

The consistency of the grease does appear a little harder than the version available at the Chemist/Pharmacy/Drug Store. I have had both and mixed the medical version with Petroleum Jelly as a rust inhibitor for my knife collection.

Other internet sites; http://www.lanotec.com.au and Email: info@lanotec.com.au

I am hoping to run several tests in BPCR and .303 British with cast boolits as soon as I have a couple of days off straight, available. I will report back.

On a side note: a dealer I check in with every now and again has an interesting rifle in at the moment. A BSA Martini action rifle in .297/.230 MORRIS (Long or Short chamber is not known). Bore is smooth, good for cast. Cases would be the problem but I believe there was a reference somewhere to loading dies for this calibre?

John:drinks:

[lar45]

It looks like cases for the 297/230 could maybe be made from 22 Hornet cases? The base and rim diameters are the same. I don't know about rim thickness. The sholder and neck diameters are also really close to the Hornet. Only the Hornet is much longer.
Maybe you could rechamber it to 22 Hornet?

[martinibelgian]

Rechamber?! When you find an original .22 Morris with a good bore, you had better let it unchanged! Cases can be formed from .22 Hornet, might need some neckturning, and I believe the original Morris round used a heeled bullet, but better make a chamber cast to be sure... That will also tell you which version you have.
I believe CH4D has the dies.
I heard from some people using pulled .22 LR bullets with success, but reloading can be a bit of a pain because of the small size of the components.

[Bigjohn]

It looks like cases for the 297/230 could maybe be made from 22 Hornet cases? The base and rim diameters are the same. I don't know about rim thickness. The sholder and neck diameters are also really close to the Hornet. Only the Hornet is much longer.
Maybe you could rechamber it to 22 Hornet?

Rechamber!!! Shock horrors, even though someone tried to clean the rifle up and botched it, I would not consider putting a chamber reamer in to change the cartridge.

When something like this comes along I prefer to leave them in the original. If however it was in good external condition and a shot or rusted bore then it is all bets off.

Nope, if I can not gather the components up to shoot it as is I will pass on it.

John.

[Ross]

"...297/.230 MORRIS (Long or Short chamber is not known). Bore is smooth, good for cast. Cases would be the problem ..."

Big John,
Buffalo has brass.

297/230 Morris Long Cases*
Brass / .219-.35 Caliber
Item #: 297230LONG
Your Price: $0.70 / Each
Unit:
Each ($0.70)
20 ($12.00)
50 ($27.00)
100 ($51.00)

Cheers from Darkest California,
Ross

[Bigjohn]

Thank you for the info on cases for the .297/.230 Morris. Reforming from .22 Hornet would be a goer as the important end is about the same dimensions. Factory made brass is a benefit if easy to import. Found a local shooter with a LYMAN mould which drops .226" boolits, just need to convince him to part with it.

The size of the round is a challenge, small game and targets only.[smilie=1: :Fire:

[martinibelgian]

I just purchased a kg of Lanolin, I will experiment a bit with it - probably in combination with beeswax and peanut oil. We'll see how far that will get us... Main focus will be 577-450, but we'll try also a bit of 'normal' 45-70 rounds. Criteria will be consistency (in the accuracy dept.) and fouling control.

[felix]

Only one downside with peanut oil, and that is the bugs like it. It will go rancid and give a lousy smell to the lube in time. Just mix up a 6 month batch per session and you should be OK. Otherwise, consider the freezer for long term storage. ... felix

[fiberoptik]

On the MuzzleLoaders Mailing List some used straight bagbalm as patch lube. Said it worked ok.

[fiberoptik]

Only one downside with peanut oil, and that is the bugs like it. It will go rancid and give a lousy smell to the lube in time. Just mix up a 6 month batch per session and you should be OK. Otherwise, consider the freezer for long term storage. ... felix

Buy some "Citricidex" brand grapefruit seed extract. Comes in a glycerin base. Bitter'n all hell. Bugs don't like it, kills germs/bacteria/molds/fungi/etc.etc.etc.:Fire:
Cost's about $20 for a 5 oz. dropper bottle? Only takes a few drops. I use it for most everything around here, including food poisoning.

[windwalker]

tride the lanotec type a greese as a patch lube this morning, it dose every thing expected of it 50 shots no cleaning between shots last ball went down the bore as easy as the first.the only thing i dont like is it is so sticky but that could be fixed with adding bees wax to it.but it sure does keep the fowling soft.it cost me $15 ozy for a2.2lb tub that is good value. will try a mix of 50/50 lanotec and bees wax and try that for the muzzel loader and for 45/70 bullets,i will keep you posted.
bernie:-D

[charlie45]

I buy my lanolin from MSC, its called lanolube and adds a lettle sticktoitness to all of the above. When the skin on your hands crack in the winter it will also do wonders. Its one of the key components in good old Bag balmb. A 2.5 oz. tube is about $4.50 if i remenber correctly.

[Edward429451]

I dunno how aussie dollars stack up against US dollars, but I got my anhydrous lanolin for 14.50 (US) for a 1 lb jar. I got it in a medical supply store.

No front stuffers in my arsenal though. I just use it for lubing my swaged jacketed boolits.

[martinibelgian]

FWIW, At the Imperial meet in Bisley last WE I shot some old BP reloads (at least 1 year), and 'refreshed' the bullets with a bit of Lanolin. This was for a Martini sporter in 500/450 #2 Musket with 80grs of powder and a 500+gr bullet. Worked like a charm, no lube problems - and no accuracy problems either (I won the match).