K frame, N frame, ?

[SciFiJim]

My knowledge of revolvers would fit in a thimble. I have seen references to different size frames. Can someone explain what the various letter sizes represent?

[targetshootr]

K= medium, N= large, X= ungodly.

[MT Gianni]

J frames are the smaller 38's, 32 and some 22's think mod 31,32, 34, 36, 38 and more.
K frames are the smaller 38/357's models 10, 12, 13, 14, 15 ,16, 17, 18, 19,66, 65, 66,67
L Frames are the newer 357, 38 and one 44 Special models 586, 686 etc introduced in the mid 80's
N Frames are the 44/45 frames some 357's are built on them Models 21, 22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 57, 58, 629 and more. The numbers were assigned by S&W. Before that they were called Combat Masterpiece, Target Special, etc.
Look at Smiths online catalog, match them up at gun shows and stores by feel and weight.We all had to learn sometime.

[Vance in Ak]

You missed a couple
J frame = little like 5 shot 38 (det special, mod 36 etc)
K Frame is standard 6 shot like 38 (mod 10 etc)
L frame, slightly larger, most common 6 shot 357 & lately I believe the 8 shot 357s (mod 586 etc)
N Frame, classic 44 mag (mod 29 etc)
X frame 460 & 500
I believe there was also maybe an I fram that was smaller than the J.

[Vance in Ak]

I type too slow:mrgreen:

[9.3X62AL]

There was briefly an M-frame, smaller than the I/J frames--22 caliber, the original Ladysmiths.

[GLL]

The only one I feel you really need to be concerned with is the N frame ! ;) ;)

Other may disagree a bit though ! :) :)

Jerry

Pre-War .38/44 Outdoorsman
http://www.fototime.com/3F7A8BDFAAE1956/orig.jpg

[Uncle R.]

Hot DAWG that's a honey!
Beautiful!
I never suffer from envy - well - almost never - except HERE.
:roll:

[TDC]

SciFiJim,

The S&W frame sizes confuse many people. There are 5 revolver frames manufactured by S&W that include the following:

"J" frames... These are the smallest produces and are commonly found in highly concealable guns in calibers that range from .22 to .357 Mag. Most common are round butt revolvers with a 2" barrel, but they are available in 3" and 4" too. Mod. 60s, Mod.36s, small "back pack" guns like the "Kit" guns in .22 caliber are favorites for their light weight, handiness and consealability. They are available, new and used, in stainless, nickel, blue and more exotic light weight metals. An example.

This is a stainless "J" frame Mod. 60 2"....

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/Mod60Ltilt.jpg

"K" frames... These are the most common revolvers in the S&W line-up. They range from the Mod. 10 .38 Special to the long time favorites of law enforcement, the Mod 19s and the Mod. 66s in 38/357 Mag. The "Ks" are a favorite of campers and backpackers in the Mod 17 and 18 22LR AND THE Mod 48 22 Mag in bbl lengths from 2" up to 8 3/8". They are small, well balanced and the all- around favorite of many, many people. The whole list of K frame models is extensive and calibers from .22 to .357 Mag have seen inclusion in
the S&W line-up. They are and have been available in blue, nickel, stainless as well as some newer exotic metals. The .357 magnum calliber has recently been discontinued by S&W.

These are some examples of stainless "K" frame Mod. 66s.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/GroupPictureall66P-R-2-1.jpg

Next are the "L" frames... These are the newest frames created by S&W. They were introduced around 1983 with the intent to produce a revolver more capable of handling frequently shot hot .357 loads and replace the Mod 19 and 66 "K" frames for that calibers use. The "K" frame magnums had a reputation of being "shot loose" if hot loads were continually digested through them. A larger frame revolver was produced that retained the grip size of the "K" but was much more durable. It also fit more hands well then the "N" frame revolvers that follow this description..

These are 4" and 6" examples of the stainless Mod. 686 versions of the "L" frames.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/686Rslighttilt4inch2.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/686Lslighttilt-1.jpg

Next are the "N" frames. These are commonly seen in the big magnum, big bore pistols produced by S&W that have been made in calibers from .357 in the Mod. 27 to the .44 Mag in the Mod.29. This is the "Dirty Harry" frame that includes an extensive list of calibers and configurations including 45ACP, .45LC, .44 Special and Magnum, .41 Mag. They have at times been available in barrel lengths that range from 2" to 10", and longer.

These are examples of some "N" frames..

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/629Rsidtiltbest.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/25-2Rtiltnew.jpg


Next is the "X" frame... These are the monsters of the S&W family. A desire to have a caliber beyond the .44 Mags and the 454 Casul was fulfilled by this frame. These have certainly served their purpose as a powerful target and useful hunting caliber.

This is an example of an "X" frame Mod. 500 in a 6 1/2" barrel....

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u269/tdcorp/500Rtilt.jpg

There are so many variations of every frame it can boggle the mind. It's best to get a current catalog of S&Ws to appreciate all the different offerings...

Hope this helped...

[SciFiJim]

Thanks TDC. That helps a great deal. The pictures added a great deal to the descriptions. A lot of people rattle off model numbers for pistols like everyone knows them. It looks like I need to get a S&W catalog.

[GLL]

TDC:

GREAT presentation of a beautiful selection !
Two VERY nice N-frames ! :) :)

Jerry

[TDC]

TDC:

GREAT presentation of a beautiful selection !
Two VERY nice N-frames ! :) :)

Jerry

Well....... thanks to both you guys for your compliments!!

I've found I'm not much of a writer and I think I'm the spelling, typo king of this website.... I thought I could contribute something to this thread as I know how confusing Smith frame sizes can be to people... I've been collecting them for over 35 years...

Actually, I came back here to drool over your beautiful N-frame... I'd love to see more of the "N's" and I believe others would too. They're my favorites and it's great to see the respect they receive on this website....

Thanks again!!

Terry

[Sprue]

The only one I feel you really need to be concerned with is the N frame ! ;) ;)

Other may disagree a bit though ! :) :)

Jerry

Pre-War .38/44 Outdoorsman
http://www.fototime.com/3F7A8BDFAAE1956/orig.jpg

Good gawd... what a beautiful picture ! To heck with the gun (not), I want the camera :)

Fabulous work sir........ fabulous

Whats the camera ?

[Bret4207]

Jerry and his gun porn! Sheesh, I get sweaty palms every time....

[Jack Stanley]

A fella I used to shoot with in the seventies had an "I" frame revolver . If I remember right it was chambered for .32 S&W and the Model number escapes me but thirty-something would have been right .

I'd never heard of an "M" frame untill now so I guess I learned something new , thank you .


GLL That is just not fair to post without a warning !! I've already had my limit of coffee and you just sent my heart rate through the roof !!! Fortunately , I keep a towel near the keyboard to control drool ( I've learned a few tricks since I got a 'puter . )

Jack

[Bucks Owin]

N frame 8 3/8" M-29-2 and K frame 6" M-19-4 http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a356/BucksOwin/SW001.jpg

[wiljen]

there was also a small I-frame along the size of the J but it was discontinued many years ago as was the M-frame used on early 1900s Ladysmiths. These are rarely seen outside collections these days. I dont think I've seen an I-frame shot at our club in 30 years.

[Marvin S]

I Frame 4" H/E in 32SW Long.

[machinisttx]

J frame was designed for .32 caliber cartridges, which is why it's a five shot in .38 special.
K frame was designed for .38 caliber cartridges.
N frame was designed for .44 and .45 caliber.

The L frame is slightly larger than the K, and was designed to eliminate the problem of cracked forcing cones in the K frame .357 magnum due to hot 125 grain ammo.

The X frame is the newest and the largest. Too large and heavy IMO for a handgun. Might as well carry a rifle.

[GLL]

I have accumulated a few S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Target Revolvers and have a special interest in pre-war and early post-war "transitional" models. These heavy N-frame guns were the precursor to the .357 Magnum Registered Magnum revolvers of the 1930s.

Although some of my old Outdoorsman are in nice condition they all go the the range ! :) :)

These beautiful revolvers were discontinued in the mid-1950s when the popularity of the.357Magnum soared !

Jerry

Post-War "transitional" .38/44 Outdoorsman
http://www.fototime.com/B2503D32A4C0527/orig.jpg

Post-1950 .38/44 Outdoorsman
http://www.fototime.com/B0E3C917754938C/orig.jpg

[OBXPilgrim]

GLL/Jerry:

And the camera is?

[GLL]

OBXPilgrim:

These photos were all taken with my old Canon Powershot G2 viewfinder digital camera.

Jerry

[gefiltephish]

I know it's kind of an old thread, but I've gotta add my 2 cents. The camera is not what makes the photo. A good photographer can make great images with any dime-store camera.

First, it's the lighting. Photography IS the recording of reflected light. Looks to me like at least a good sized light box was used, or possibly a light tent. The puny on-camera flashes on point-and-shoots result in the most gawd awful deer-in-the-headlights effects. If nothing else, use no flash and northern light (shaded side of a building with open sky).

The other thing I see most people really screw up on is both bad focusing and hand shake. How do you make an out of focus photo with an auto-focus camera? Easy! Move in closer than the minimum focusing distance for your camera/lens and I absolutely guarantee a very fuzzy image. Keep the camera back beyond the minimum distance and crop the image with software if necessary. Use multiple bright lights so the camera will (may) select a smaller aperture for increased depth of field (range of acceptable focus). Selecting a higher ASA/ISO rating should also result in a smaller aperture, all other things being equal. <edit>Many digital cameras have a macro setting that allows for moving in much closer, try that if you have it.</edit>

Lastly, if you have a tripod USE IT! If not, use that sandbag you have for shooting your handguns. You can plop the camera on top of it and switch on the timer. If you're not using the timer, squeeeeeeze the trigger gently! Congratulations, you've now produced a technically superior image.

To make your creation more esthetically pleasing, arrange the subject and camera till it looks 'just right' in the viewfinder. Next, arrange your lights and/or reflectors for the best 'modeling' of the subject with the most pleasing highlights and shadow effects.

See, nothin' to it!!

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
PRETTY GUNS.
Have shot the k fram, & n fram. like the K fram in 22, like the N in any other cal.

[healey55]

I have a 22 outdoorsman with the same style barrel and sights but in K frame.. a very accurate revolver.. the precursor to the K22. It was made in about 1936.

I love the bead in the front sight but hate the way the rear sight adjusts and the way it shoots loose and the dinky little screws.

[45r]

I like the N-frame the most.

[44fanatic]

Anyone catch the penciled in price on GLL's Outdoorsman box?
Bet it wasnt sold for that yesterday.

[Three44s]

I just like good revolvers ....... and S&W has made one BIG pasal of them!!!


And as to cameras ....... yes, it's the photographer!!!


Great thread!


Three 44s