ID SMLE No 1 Mk III

[dualsport]

I have a SMLE that I'm trying to ID. I know it's a No 1 Mk III*, that's on the left side of the butt socket. Under that in capital letters is FR 43. I believe that means Factory Repair done in Ishapore. I think. On the barrel and receiver is the crown, GB under it and under that is the crossed flags over a 'P'. I think this is an Ishapore, but don't know for sure. There's no manufacturer's name or code I can recognize. The only date I see is a 42 on the top right of the butt stock socket. (The 'FR43) looks like it might be 'FR48'.
After MONTHS of cleaning the bore is starting to actually look like a semi decent barrel. I was planning to rebarrel/convert to .444(I already have a threaded chambered barrel. I don't have a bolt for it, but can borrow one from my Lithgow for now. Any help id'ing the manufacturer would be appreciated. thanks dual

[PAT303]

FR means factory repair in India,Crossed flags over P means Ishapore,are you sure it's GB and not GR?. Pat

[Multigunner]

I think Springfield Sporters has complete Bolts from Indian rifles for around 30 bucks.

Its best not to switch out bolts between rifles, especially rifles made at different National armories. All can be made to fit, but due to hand stoning the lugs which was the normal procedure, bearing of lugs to shoulers is seldom indentical.
Firing one rifle with another rifles bolt can loosen its fit in the rifle the bolt came from.

I've noticed that late WW2 manufacture Lithgow receivers I've examined have almost no rake to the resistence shoulders, older Enfields have a noticable rake and the surface to surface contact requires stoning in a matching angle.

Equal contact area on each lug is necessary for good accuracy. If one lug bears more than the other , horizontal stringing results.

Best to stone and then lap to get at least 80% contact ( of available contact area) on each lug before first firing. The Lugs were set firmly to their seats by the Proof test loads.

Due to bevels at one side of the lugs and at the oposite side of the seat, theres never full contact, only around 75% of the lug surface can actually come into contact with the seat.

PS
Should you decide to rebarrel this action to .444 afterall let me Know. I could use a good condition take off barrel for a stripped action body I intend to finish out as a sporter.

[dualsport]

Thanks guys. I have a book about SMLEs, just can't find it! You wouldn't want to see my "room". The 'GB' is in fact 'GR' ,(borrowed my wife's glasses). After a lot of looking I finally found some basic instructions on rebarrelling the SMLE. It starts with about $300 in tools, according to the article on 'surplusrifle'. That isn't going to happen. I'm looking at ways to get it done with commonly available tools, but may just have to wait 'til I can hire a gunsmith. I have a big vise and a 24" pipe wrench and a big strap wrench. Thinking maybe I could make some kind of blocks for the action using wood, epoxy, aluminum...I won't do anything for now, just figuring this out. The 444 barrel looks like it has been mounted already and has the extractor cut already in(twice). It's heavy, rough turned and a straight taper. Maybe I'll find someone with the tools who wants to swap labor for a complete barrel.
Multi, you have dibbs if I decide to sell the barrel. Thanks for all the info.