Mauser front sight removal

[waksupi]

Not removal, really, but I need to get it loose, to turn it slightly. The front sight blade is set completely to the left, to get the bullets near target center. I would like to get the ring loose, to turn it a few degrees. I considered bending the barrel, but it isn't the problem. I look through it, and the light bars look perfect. So, rather turn the sight, than bend things. I know some of you guys have got this one figured out. This is on the Yugo 24/47, by the way.

[StarMetal]

Ric,

If you turned it some then the inverted V blade is going to be tiltled. Boy that really bugs me. Did you think about recrowning the muzzle? Maybe the muzzle has a bad spot or nick or something in it. Did you look that over real good? If you push the sight blade out there is a little screw under it you have to remove. The ring is soft soldered on the barrel. There is a little dimple drilled in the barrel to receive the little screw I just talked about. At least that's the way I found them on most Mausers.

Joe

[waksupi]

The crown and bore condition is perfect, the sight is just set off a bit. It appears, to the naked eye, to have actually been mounted off in original manufacture. When I recieved the rifle, the sight was already set off to the side, so the previous shooter obviously knew about it. If the sight should end up with a slight tilt, I will find it less disconcerting, than seeing the sight blade drifted completely over to the side of the sight cover.
It sounds like an easy operation to move it, so I will give it a try this weekend.

[StarMetal]

Ric,

It doesn't take alot of heat to dislodge it, that ring is very thin. Good luck.

Joe

[Larry Gibson]

Not removal, really, but I need to get it loose, to turn it slightly. The front sight blade is set completely to the left, to get the bullets near target center. I would like to get the ring loose, to turn it a few degrees. I considered bending the barrel, but it isn't the problem. I look through it, and the light bars look perfect. So, rather turn the sight, than bend things. I know some of you guys have got this one figured out. This is on the Yugo 24/47, by the way.

I've "straightened" up quite a few Mauser front sights over the years to center them up. Secure the barrel in a padded vise with the front sight close to the vise. Drift the front sight out to see if there is a small set screw in the sight slot locking the front sight band in place on the barrel, most Mausers have it. Try to loosen it but don't bugger the screw slot if it won't move, it is soldered in place.

Using a propane torch heat the sight base around the top. It doesn't take a lot of heat and I do it slowly so as not to scale the finish. This will break the solder loose so the screw can be backed out. I usually remove the screw and not use it again. As the sight isn't turned that much the screw will want reset back into it's original indent in the barrel pulling the front base off crooked again. Then drift the front sight back in and center it in the base. This makes it easier to line up the base square with the rear sight. If the band hasn't broken loose yet a little heat applied around the band will break it loose. With pliers turn the band to the position you want it, remove the propane heat and hold until the solder sets. I have reheated a sight and moved it several times to get it right. The solder resets each time and holds.

A more involved procedure is to heat the band, remove the set screw, and remove the band from the barrel. The old solder can then be removed from the barrel and the band. The detent on the barrel can be cleaned up or filed slightly so the set screw will take a new spot on the barrel. Put flux on the barrel and inside of the band. I put a mixture of bone black and sperm oil (I still have a little) on the portions I don't want discolered by the flux or solder to stick to, prevents scaling also. There are other products for this these days. The band (make sure you put it on front forward) can be centered up and set in place with the set screw. Then plain old soft 50-50 solder can be used to solder the front sight. Heat the band all the way around and hold the solder until it gets sucked in between the band and barrel. Let cool, clean up, oil, drift front sight back in and go shooting.

Larry Gibson

[waksupi]

Larry, you have pretty much hit upon the method I had determined to follow. Lots of gun stuff to do this weekend. Rained out of my Canadian varmint shoot, so am profiling a stock on the pantograph in the morning. I have a flint trade gun to work on this weekend, and the Mauser sight. I will be well, and enjoyably, occupied.

[Pirate69]

I am moving the front and rear sights on a Mauser 98/22 take-off barrel that I picked-up. Rear sight, not a problem. Applied heat, solder melted and I was able to move it forward for future relocation. Front sight is another story. Drifted the sight blade out with little effort. The set screw is giving me a huge problem. I have applied heat and it will not turn. I have applied more than a "little" heat to see if that helped. I have not messed-up the screw head yet, but it is only a matter of time if I keep messing with it. That is a small screw head slot. Any chance this is a left-hand screw? LOL. Thought I would ask. Anything I am missing in your experience?

I guess if all else fails, I could drill it and use an easy-out after heating. Or, just drill it out down to the sight base/barrel line. Any words of wisdom? Thanks in advance.





I've "straightened" up quite a few Mauser front sights over the years to center them up. Secure the barrel in a padded vise with the front sight close to the vise. Drift the front sight out to see if there is a small set screw in the sight slot locking the front sight band in place on the barrel, most Mausers have it. Try to loosen it but don't bugger the screw slot if it won't move, it is soldered in place.

Using a propane torch heat the sight base around the top. It doesn't take a lot of heat and I do it slowly so as not to scale the finish. This will break the solder loose so the screw can be backed out. I usually remove the screw and not use it again. As the sight isn't turned that much the screw will want reset back into it's original indent in the barrel pulling the front base off crooked again. Then drift the front sight back in and center it in the base. This makes it easier to line up the base square with the rear sight. If the band hasn't broken loose yet a little heat applied around the band will break it loose. With pliers turn the band to the position you want it, remove the propane heat and hold until the solder sets. I have reheated a sight and moved it several times to get it right. The solder resets each time and holds.

A more involved procedure is to heat the band, remove the set screw, and remove the band from the barrel. The old solder can then be removed from the barrel and the band. The detent on the barrel can be cleaned up or filed slightly so the set screw will take a new spot on the barrel. Put flux on the barrel and inside of the band. I put a mixture of bone black and sperm oil (I still have a little) on the portions I don't want discolered by the flux or solder to stick to, prevents scaling also. There are other products for this these days. The band (make sure you put it on front forward) can be centered up and set in place with the set screw. Then plain old soft 50-50 solder can be used to solder the front sight. Heat the band all the way around and hold the solder until it gets sucked in between the band and barrel. Let cool, clean up, oil, drift front sight back in and go shooting.

Larry Gibson

[Larry Gibson]

Answered same in PM.

Mauser front sights are most often soft soldered after the set screw is installed. You have to apply enough heat to melt the solder while unscrewing the set screw. Takes 3 hands but a vise is preferable as the barrel will get too hot to touch and the vise is better than the 3rd hand. I usually mix bone black with some sperm oil and put inside the barrel for about 3 -4" to prevent any scaling. I'm sure you probably won't have any of that but powdered charcoal mixed with a sulfer based cutting oil does as well. Get real chrcoal from a BBQ supply store (briquettes are not charcoal) and Ace Hardware or any good hardware has the cutting oil. I use a propane torch. You will see the solder, flux or grease bubble out around the sight band and maybe in the screw hole just before the solder is melting so keep applying heat. Keep pressure on the screw and it should turn when the solder melts.

Larry Gibson

[gwozdz]

Sometimes hit the screw head to break the bond in the threads. All the set screws I have removed unscrewed normally by turning counterclockwise.

[gew98]

Sometimes hit the screw head to break the bond in the threads. All the set screws I have removed unscrewed normally by turning counterclockwise.

There is no tapping the front sight set screw with a punch...you do it and you'll be drilling it out. I've broken down no small number of gew98 , kar98 and 98k rifles over the years. Some set screws come right out, some never to budge. I've drilled some out and retapped front base if I had a use for it. I've bought gobs of parts where some bubba hammered the front bases off with nary a thought about the set screws. Some still screwed out though. If you shift the sight base you will need to relocate the set screw hole.